What is the best way to desolder?

I have tried solder wicks, single bulb solder suckers, pen-like solder
suckers, solder suckers with integrated soldering irons, and I've
tried heating the item and shaking off the solder.

My current best method is heating the solder and blowing it off with a
plastic soda straw. This sometimes leaves solder all over the place,
and I have to use my fingernail or a chopstick to nudge the solder off
places where it is shorting two connectors, or where it might fall and
short something (which is everywhere).

I ask now because I have, that I found in the trash years ago, about
12 Western Electric circuit boards, obsolete now, each with up to 7
6-pole double throw relays. Needless to say, Western Electric used
high quality relays, but when I try to desolder them from the boards,
I lose a lot of the connections (there are 20 of them), and often I
lose one of the two connections that goes to the relay coil, and I've
ruined the relay.

I need a better way to get these relays disconnected from the circuit
boards.

Help?

Meirman
--
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or not you are posting the same letter.
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meirman wrote:
What is the best way to desolder?

For removing PC mounted relays I'd use a SOLDAPULLT (tm) followed, if
necessary, by a little solder wick.

"meirman" wrote in message
...
What is the best way to desolder?

I have tried solder wicks, single bulb solder suckers, pen-like solder
suckers, solder suckers with integrated soldering irons, and I've
tried heating the item and shaking off the solder.


Depends what you're trying to solder, aside from very expensive vacuum
stations I've had the best luck with the Radio Shack desoldering iron (one
of the few truly useful things they sell) for larger joints, and solder wick
dipped in liquid flux for smaller stuff. The flux is really the key, it
dries out quickly from solder wick which then works poorly.

"
My current best method is heating the solder and blowing it off with a
plastic soda straw.

Try sucking,

Travis Jordan wrote:
meirman wrote:

What is the best way to desolder?


For removing PC mounted relays I'd use a SOLDAPULLT (tm) followed, if
necessary, by a little solder wick.


The only thing I would add to your suggestion is a web site:
http://www.hvwtech.com/pages/product...?ProductID=444
and the comment that desoldering takes some skill. My suggestion would
be that he practice on some items that he doesn't need before attempting
to desolder the real items he wants.

meirman wrote:
What is the best way to desolder?

I have tried solder wicks, single bulb solder suckers, pen-like
solder
suckers, solder suckers with integrated soldering irons, and I've
tried heating the item and shaking off the solder.

My current best method is heating the solder and blowing it off with
a
plastic soda straw. This sometimes leaves solder all over the place,
and I have to use my fingernail or a chopstick to nudge the solder
off
places where it is shorting two connectors, or where it might fall
and
short something (which is everywhere).

I ask now because I have, that I found in the trash years ago, about
12 Western Electric circuit boards, obsolete now, each with up to 7
6-pole double throw relays. Needless to say, Western Electric used
high quality relays, but when I try to desolder them from the boards,
I lose a lot of the connections (there are 20 of them), and often I
lose one of the two connections that goes to the relay coil, and I've
ruined the relay.
Something I've done in the past that works pretty good is to heat the
solder joint with your iron, remove the iron and then imediatly brush
the hot solder away with an old tooth brush. Works good and all that
is left to do is remove all the solder you have brushed away. Try to
brush in a direction so that the debris is easily removed. I've even
been know to lay a peice of cloth next to the solder joint before
brushing and let that catch the trash solder. Taping down a peice of
paper works too. Use a hot iron and get in and out fast so that you
don't damage the part. A not so hot iron will force you to stay longer
on the joint before the solder melts and could damage the part. Good
luck.

I need a better way to get these relays disconnected from the circuit
boards.

Help?

Meirman
--
If emailing, please let me know whether
or not you are posting the same letter.
Change domain to erols.com, if necessary.

meirman wrote:
What is the best way to desolder?
(snip)

I use pieces of old 75 ohm coax cable, with the core removed so just
the braid remains, dipped in flux. Works like a dream. usually need to
use a hot iron (40w at least). Practise on some old junk first to get
the hang of it.
-Ben

b wrote:
I use pieces of old 75 ohm coax cable, with the core removed so just
the braid remains, dipped in flux. Works like a dream. usually need to

This would be solder wick.

In article ,
meirman wrote:

What is the best way to desolder?

I have tried solder wicks, single bulb solder suckers, pen-like solder
suckers, solder suckers with integrated soldering irons, and I've
tried heating the item and shaking off the solder.

My current best method is heating the solder and blowing it off with a
plastic soda straw. This sometimes leaves solder all over the place,
and I have to use my fingernail or a chopstick to nudge the solder off
places where it is shorting two connectors, or where it might fall and
short something (which is everywhere).

I ask now because I have, that I found in the trash years ago, about
12 Western Electric circuit boards, obsolete now, each with up to 7
6-pole double throw relays. Needless to say, Western Electric used
high quality relays, but when I try to desolder them from the boards,
I lose a lot of the connections (there are 20 of them), and often I
lose one of the two connections that goes to the relay coil, and I've
ruined the relay.

I need a better way to get these relays disconnected from the circuit
boards.

Help?

Back in the days when computer memory chips looked like sixteen-legged
caterpillars and cost a fortune each, a friend of mine got his hands on
a pile of circuit boards with dozens of the things soldered in.

His solution was to grab a board by the corner with pliers and hold it
in the flame of his kitchen stove until the solder turned all shiny. A
quick flip to bang the edge of the board, upside down, on the edge of
the stove, deposited all the chips -- and lots of solder splats -- on
the vinyl flooring.

Almost all the chips were good. He was happy; his wife was distinctly
*not*.

Isaac

In sci.electronics.repair on Mon, 07 Mar 2005 20:36:45 -0800 Isaac
Wingfield posted:

In article ,
meirman wrote:

What is the best way to desolder?

I have tried solder wicks, single bulb solder suckers, pen-like solder
suckers, solder suckers with integrated soldering irons, and I've
tried heating the item and shaking off the solder.

My current best method is heating the solder and blowing it off with a
plastic soda straw. This sometimes leaves solder all over the place,
and I have to use my fingernail or a chopstick to nudge the solder off
places where it is shorting two connectors, or where it might fall and
short something (which is everywhere).

I ask now because I have, that I found in the trash years ago, about
12 Western Electric circuit boards, obsolete now, each with up to 7
6-pole double throw relays. Needless to say, Western Electric used
high quality relays,

These are great boards btw. Very thick and they have half-inch high
steel frames on three sides of them.

but when I try to desolder them from the boards,
I lose a lot of the connections (there are 20 of them), and often I
lose one of the two connections that goes to the relay coil, and I've
ruined the relay.

I need a better way to get these relays disconnected from the circuit
boards.

Help?

Back in the days when computer memory chips looked like sixteen-legged
caterpillars and cost a fortune each, a friend of mine got his hands on
a pile of circuit boards with dozens of the things soldered in.

His solution was to grab a board by the corner with pliers and hold it
in the flame of his kitchen stove until the solder turned all shiny. A
quick flip to bang the edge of the board, upside down, on the edge of

This sounds great. One more reason I wish I had a gas stove.

Thanks a lot, and thanks to all of you for a lot of good ideas.

Also someone emailed me to suggest a heat gun applied to the solder
side, pointing up, and gravity or pliers or a pry to the other side.

the stove, deposited all the chips -- and lots of solder splats -- on
the vinyl flooring.

Almost all the chips were good. He was happy; his wife was distinctly
*not*.

Isaac


Meirman
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In sci.electronics.repair on Sun, 06 Mar 2005 21:51:47 GMT Ken
posted:

Travis Jordan wrote:
meirman wrote:

What is the best way to desolder?


For removing PC mounted relays I'd use a SOLDAPULLT (tm) followed, if
necessary, by a little solder wick.


The only thing I would add to your suggestion is a web site:
http://www.hvwtech.com/pages/product...?ProductID=444

Thanks to both of you.

I looked at the webpage and then I looked at my solder suckers (I have
two, bought at rummage sales I think.)

Much to my surprise, one of them was a Soldapullt, although a
different model from the one shown. Mine is 3 inches shorter, but the
stroke is only 3/4 inch shorter. 2 1/2 inches instead of 3 1/4.

But mine doesn't work at all, and from the web page I realized I must
replace the o-ring.

The other one is one of those imitations they mention, and I don't
think it works very well based on how well it sucks on my finger --
that's probably why they sold it.

and the comment that desoldering takes some skill. My suggestion would
be that he practice on some items that he doesn't need before attempting
to desolder the real items he wants.

Is there a problem letting the soldeapullt touch the soldering iron
tip -- Does that damage it? Should I make sure that I only touch the
liquid solder?

I don't think I'll be able to get a replacement tip for the one I
have, although if it wears out, I'd be willing to buy a new model.

Thanks again.

Meirman
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or not you are posting the same letter.
Change domain to erols.com, if necessary.

In sci.electronics.repair on Sun, 06 Mar 2005 18:41:12 GMT "James
Sweet" posted:


"meirman" wrote in message
.. .
What is the best way to desolder?

I have tried solder wicks, single bulb solder suckers, pen-like solder
suckers, solder suckers with integrated soldering irons, and I've
tried heating the item and shaking off the solder.


Depends what you're trying to solder, aside from very expensive vacuum
stations I've had the best luck with the Radio Shack desoldering iron (one
of the few truly useful things they sell) for larger joints, and solder wick
dipped in liquid flux for smaller stuff. The flux is really the key, it
dries out quickly from solder wick which then works poorly.

I actually have liquid flux. I bought a small bottle of it new but
hadn't realized yet that I have a use for it. I'll try that as you
suggest.

Meirman
--
If emailing, please let me know whether
or not you are posting the same letter.
Change domain to erols.com, if necessary.

In sci.electronics.repair on Sun, 6 Mar 2005 21:42:16 -0000 "Cubzilla"
posted:


"
My current best method is heating the solder and blowing it off with a
plastic soda straw.

Try sucking,

I've worried about that, but I think I've got it down to only
blowing. .... You're not serious, are you?




Meirman
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Change domain to erols.com, if necessary.

In sci.electronics.repair on 7 Mar 2005 07:33:17 -0800 "worldcitizen"
posted:


meirman wrote:
What is the best way to desolder?

I have tried solder wicks, single bulb solder suckers, pen-like
solder
suckers, solder suckers with integrated soldering irons, and I've
tried heating the item and shaking off the solder.

My current best method is heating the solder and blowing it off with
a
plastic soda straw. This sometimes leaves solder all over the place,
and I have to use my fingernail or a chopstick to nudge the solder
off
places where it is shorting two connectors, or where it might fall
and
short something (which is everywhere).

I ask now because I have, that I found in the trash years ago, about
12 Western Electric circuit boards, obsolete now, each with up to 7
6-pole double throw relays. Needless to say, Western Electric used
high quality relays, but when I try to desolder them from the boards,
I lose a lot of the connections (there are 20 of them), and often I
lose one of the two connections that goes to the relay coil, and I've
ruined the relay.
Something I've done in the past that works pretty good is to heat the
solder joint with your iron, remove the iron and then imediatly brush
the hot solder away with an old tooth brush. Works good and all that
is left to do is remove all the solder you have brushed away. Try to
brush in a direction so that the debris is easily removed. I've even
been know to lay a peice of cloth next to the solder joint before
brushing and let that catch the trash solder. Taping down a peice of
paper works too. Use a hot iron and get in and out fast so that you
don't damage the part. A not so hot iron will force you to stay longer
on the joint before the solder melts and could damage the part. Good
luck.

I'll try those things too. I actually have a lot of experience doing
this, and it's worked pretty well, although slowly, and I knew there
must be a better way.

That's why I was surprised when I did so much damage to so many of the
relays and ruined about 3 of them, out of 7 that I removed.

Thanks to you and to all.

I need a better way to get these relays disconnected from the circuit
boards.

Help?

Meirman
--
If emailing, please let me know whether
or not you are posting the same letter.
Change domain to erols.com, if necessary.


Meirman
--
If emailing, please let me know whether
or not you are posting the same letter.
Change domain to erols.com, if necessary.

meirman wrote:
In sci.electronics.repair on Sun, 06 Mar 2005 21:51:47 GMT Ken
posted:


Travis Jordan wrote:

meirman wrote:


What is the best way to desolder?


For removing PC mounted relays I'd use a SOLDAPULLT (tm) followed, if
necessary, by a little solder wick.



The only thing I would add to your suggestion is a web site:
http://www.hvwtech.com/pages/product...?ProductID=444


Thanks to both of you.

I looked at the webpage and then I looked at my solder suckers (I have
two, bought at rummage sales I think.)

Much to my surprise, one of them was a Soldapullt, although a
different model from the one shown. Mine is 3 inches shorter, but the
stroke is only 3/4 inch shorter. 2 1/2 inches instead of 3 1/4.

But mine doesn't work at all, and from the web page I realized I must
replace the o-ring.

The other one is one of those imitations they mention, and I don't
think it works very well based on how well it sucks on my finger --
that's probably why they sold it.


and the comment that desoldering takes some skill. My suggestion would
be that he practice on some items that he doesn't need before attempting
to desolder the real items he wants.


Is there a problem letting the soldeapullt touch the soldering iron
tip -- Does that damage it? Should I make sure that I only touch the
liquid solder?

I don't think I'll be able to get a replacement tip for the one I
have, although if it wears out, I'd be willing to buy a new model.

Thanks again.

Meirman
--
If emailing, please let me know whether
or not you are posting the same letter.
Change domain to erols.com, if necessary.


If you will go to the following:
http://www.hvwtech.com/pages/product...6&SubCatID=154
you will see you can purchase a refurb kit which includes a replacement
tip. (Even a local Radio Shack might have them) It is true that
eventually the tip will become damaged, but it does not occur as quickly
as one would expect. Place the tip as close to the component as you can
and release the solder sucker vacuum when you see the solder flow around
the component. Again, practice is the best method to learn how to
effectively do this. When I hired a technician for my crew many years
ago, I would have them practice on scrap PWBs for a week before working
on real product. One can do a lot of damage quickly to an expensive
circuit board if you don't have the process perfected. Certainly you
won't need to practice that long, but some is advised in my opinion.

"meirman" wrote in message
...

Back in the days when computer memory chips looked like sixteen-legged
caterpillars and cost a fortune each, a friend of mine got his hands on
a pile of circuit boards with dozens of the things soldered in.

His solution was to grab a board by the corner with pliers and hold it
in the flame of his kitchen stove until the solder turned all shiny. A
quick flip to bang the edge of the board, upside down, on the edge of

This sounds great. One more reason I wish I had a gas stove.


Propane torch. Heat & beat (the board against an edge).

Travis Jordan wrote:
meirman wrote:

What is the best way to desolder?


For removing PC mounted relays I'd use a SOLDAPULLT (tm) followed, if
necessary, by a little solder wick.

To remove leaded components from plated-thru holes
nothing beats a desoldering iron with vacuum pump built into the handle.
We use one made by Den-on Instruments in Japan called SC7000.
It is somewhat expensive (around US$ 500)
Units with the pump on the table and a hose in between lose much of
their efficiency in my experience.

Stein

In article ,
meirman wrote:

Also someone emailed me to suggest a heat gun applied to the solder
side, pointing up, and gravity or pliers or a pry to the other side.

Takes too long to heat up to solder-melting temperature. Long before
that, the components will be cooked.

Isaac

On 2005-03-10, Isaac Wingfield wrote:
In article ,
meirman wrote:

Also someone emailed me to suggest a heat gun applied to the solder
side, pointing up, and gravity or pliers or a pry to the other side.

Takes too long to heat up to solder-melting temperature. Long before
that, the components will be cooked.

Isaac

Also someone emailed me to suggest a heat gun applied to the solder
side, pointing up, and gravity or pliers or a pry to the other side.
Takes too long to heat up to solder-melting temperature. Long before
that, the components will be cooked.

They'll be fine. With correct (high enough) heat, and proper working, most
of the components will be in excellent condition.
I've even seen surface mount IC's being installed with a regular heat gun..

One must not fry the components. Just heat the solder (from the solder side
only..), hit the board lightly, and the components will drop off the board.
Well, unless their legs have been turned. In that case, it'll be a bit
trickyer.
And of course, one spot of the board must not be heated too long. That too
will cook it up.

Not true at all. We remove components all the time with a heat gun. The
solder is a much better thermal conductor than the case of the component.
The problem with a heat gun without the right attachment to direct the heat
is damaging the board if you heat it too long. For SMDs just turn the board
over and let is fall off and that is not even a problem unless the component
is glued on.

Leonard

"Isaac Wingfield" wrote in message
...
In article ,
meirman wrote:

Also someone emailed me to suggest a heat gun applied to the solder
side, pointing up, and gravity or pliers or a pry to the other side.

Takes too long to heat up to solder-melting temperature. Long before
that, the components will be cooked.

Isaac

In sci.electronics.repair on Wed, 09 Mar 2005 20:08:15 -0800 Isaac
Wingfield posted:

In article ,
meirman wrote:

Also someone emailed me to suggest a heat gun applied to the solder
side, pointing up, and gravity or pliers or a pry to the other side.

Takes too long to heat up to solder-melting temperature. Long before
that, the components will be cooked.

My original question was about relays. I don't think they cook
easily, no? And they're the ones I've had the most trouble with,
because if there are only one or two wires, I can do that pretty
easily. (I don't remove IC's because I don't do volume work or work
on the same device, so I can't reuse IC's.)

I actually have a heat gun, but I forgot that I got it broken. I
replaced the fan and it worked. Tonight it worked for 2 or 3 minutes
before the fan stopped.

I'll probably buy a new heat gun soon.

I have to try my soldapullt too. I replaced the O-ring today and it
has far more suction. The old O-ring was a full half-millimeter or
more smaller than the cylinder it was in. Maybe no suction at all.
It had a lot of vaseline or something, that the Soldapullt maker
recommends, and I believe him that it won't ruin things quickly. But
after a while, vaseline will ruin latex. The thinner the quicker,
which is why they recommend against it for condoms. O-rings aren't
that thin, and they might not be latex, but in another thread
somewhere, I saw vaseline recommended precisely because it made rubber
soft. In some situation it made things fit or seal better. If I end
up lubricating this o-ring, maybe I'll use KY jelly.

And the propane torch.

And the liquid flux with the solder-wick.

Four things to try!!

Thanks a lot you guys.

Isaac


Meirman
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meirman wrote:
It had a lot of vaseline or something, that the Soldapullt maker
recommends, and I believe him that it won't ruin things quickly. But
after a while, vaseline will ruin latex. The thinner the quicker,
which is why they recommend against it for condoms. O-rings aren't
that thin, and they might not be latex, but in another thread
somewhere, I saw vaseline recommended precisely because it made rubber
soft. In some situation it made things fit or seal better. If I end
up lubricating this o-ring, maybe I'll use KY jelly.

Don't use a water soluble lubricant - silicon lube is best for the
O-ring. That's what Soldapullt includes with the rebuild kit.

In sci.electronics.repair on Fri, 11 Mar 2005 12:28:15 GMT "Travis
Jordan" posted:

meirman wrote:
It had a lot of vaseline or something, that the Soldapullt maker
recommends, and I believe him that it won't ruin things quickly. But
after a while, vaseline will ruin latex. The thinner the quicker,
which is why they recommend against it for condoms. O-rings aren't
that thin, and they might not be latex, but in another thread
somewhere,

in another thread on *another* subject.

I saw vaseline recommended precisely because it made rubber
soft. In some situation it made things fit or seal better. If I end
up lubricating this o-ring, maybe I'll use KY jelly.

Don't use a water soluble lubricant - silicon lube is best for the
O-ring. That's what Soldapullt includes with the rebuild kit.

OK. I have that too.

But I'm pretty sure also on the soldapullt webpage they recommended
vaseline for some reason.

http://www.hvwtech.com/pages/product...?ProductID=444

Yeah, it does. I wonder why:

"1. Open the unit (it simply twists apart) and remove any solder that
has collected inside.
2. Use a cloth or paper towel to clean the o-ring, the plunger
assembly and the chamber.
3. Inspect the o-ring for wear -is the side worn flat where it touches
the chamber wall ? If only slightly worn, cleaning and regreasing the
unit will be sufficient. If not, replace the o-ring
4. Smear a small amount of Vaseline around the o-ring
(strictly-speaking, you shouldn't use a pertoleum product like
Vaseline on a rubber o-ring but we've been doing this for years with
excellent results).
5. Reassemble the unit and test for proper suction. If the suction is
not satisfactory, you can try a little more Vaseline on the o-ring. If
that helps, then the o-ring should really be replaced.

For removing surface-mount devices, we suggest ChipQuik"

Meirman
--
If emailing, please let me know whether
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meirman wrote:
What is the best way to desolder?

I have tried solder wicks, single bulb solder suckers, pen-like solder
suckers, solder suckers with integrated soldering irons, and I've
tried heating the item and shaking off the solder. SNIP

--------------------
In a pinch, I've used a B.B. gun to blast the solder off a mouse circuit
board.

Hey, I had no tools along . .:-(

motsco.

meirman wrote:
But I'm pretty sure also on the soldapullt webpage they recommended
vaseline for some reason.

http://www.hvwtech.com/pages/product...?ProductID=444

Sorry, but this isn't a Edsyn (manufacturer of Soldapullt (tm)) web
page. Use the instructions you see here at your own risk. Once again,
I'd recommend silicon lube.