I don't think crimp wil be reliable.

Measure the resistance of te other coil and find the same resistive
wire etc ... etc ...

Good luck !

"DaveC" wrote in message
al.net...
Nice old toaster has one dead heat coil.

If the owner want to keep it, what are the options? Are breaks easily
spliced
with hi-temp crimp of some kind? Or is it best to rewind the coil with new
wire?

Thanks,
--
Please, no "Go Google this" replies. I wouldn't
ask a question here if I hadn't done that already.

DaveC

This is an invalid return address
Please reply in the news group


from my tips file
http://www.divdev.fsnet.co.uk/tips2.htm

Hint for heater element repairs
The thin stainless steel strip found spot welded to multicell ni-cads
make good crimps for joining breaks in heater resistance wire.
Form a small length of this strip around a needle or something
similar to make a tight
spiral with enough clearance to go over doubled-up heater wire.Abraid
or file the cut ends
of the broken wire.Crimp into place with a double lever action crimper.
If there is an area of brittlised element around the break then cut out
and splice in a replacement section with
two such crimps.Such a repair to a hot-air paint stripper (indispensible
tool
in any electronics repair
toolkit ) has survived at least 50 hours

Said hot-air gun must have about 3 such joins now and 200 hours on the
clock.

"DaveC" wrote in message
al.net...
Nice old toaster has one dead heat coil.

If the owner want to keep it, what are the options? Are breaks easily
spliced
with hi-temp crimp of some kind? Or is it best to rewind the coil with new
wire?

I used to fix toasters for profit. Who would pay to fix an $8 toaster now?
Where will you find NiChrome wire - and I'll bet it's flat. If I really,
really wanted to fix it I might buy a cheap toaster and use the wire from it
to fix my antique.
--
N

DaveC wrote:
Nice old toaster has one dead heat coil.

If the owner want to keep it, what are the options? Are breaks easily spliced
with hi-temp crimp of some kind? Or is it best to rewind the coil with new
wire?

Thanks,

I'd try to spot weld it.

I'd also worry about how brittle the rest of the coil was.
Had a clothes dryer that had a coil that opened up. It broke into a
dozen pieces as I was pulling it out.
mike

--
Return address is VALID.
Wanted, PCMCIA SCSI Card for HP m820 CDRW.
FS 500MHz Tek DSOscilloscope TDS540 Make Offer
http://nm7u.tripod.com/homepage/te.html
Wanted, 12.1" LCD for Gateway Solo 5300. Samsung LT121SU-121
Bunch of stuff For Sale and Wanted at the link below.
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Monitor/4710/

On Thu, 3 Feb 2005 09:13:03 -0800, DaveC wrote:

Nice old toaster has one dead heat coil.

If the owner want to keep it, what are the options? Are breaks easily spliced
with hi-temp crimp of some kind? Or is it best to rewind the coil with new
wire?

Thanks,

You'll want to replace that bad coil. Most small appliance repairshops
and the better stocked hardware stores will carry heater coil element.

Ordinary wire may work for a very short while but is likely to burn up
and could cause a fire hazard.

"none" wrote in message
...

You'll want to replace that bad coil. Most small appliance repairshops
and the better stocked hardware stores will carry heater coil element.

Ordinary wire may work for a very short while but is likely to burn up
and could cause a fire hazard.

Ordinary wire won't work at all. That is VERY dangerous - you'll have molten
copper all over the place.
--
N

In article et,
DaveC wrote:

Nice old toaster has one dead heat coil.

If the owner want to keep it, what are the options? Are breaks easily spliced
with hi-temp crimp of some kind?

Here's a "quick fix" that sometimes works for a long time and sometimes
fails quickly (depending, I think, on just how old and brittle the
nichrome wire is).

Mix some ordinary "Boraxo" powdered hand soap with a little water to
make a thick paste -- and you don't need much.

Take the broken ends of wire, bend a small loop into each, and interlock
the loops so the wires stay together.

Pack the Boraxo paste around the joint, and turn on the heater.

Keep your eyes on that joint. As the coil heats up, the hook joint will
be the worst connection, so it'll naturally get the hottest.

When it gets hot enough, the nichrome wires will melt, and, being fluxed
by the borate, will fuse together into a blob. The blob, now being
*larger* than the rest of the wires, will immediately cool down, and
will never again get as "red hot" as the rest of the heater.

Allow the coils to cool down and, using pliers, carefully crush any
glassy flux deposit that remains on the joint.

If the joint doesn't behave as I describe, or if the wires are too
brittle to be formed into hooks, the wires are likely too old to produce
a long-lasting joint. If the joint behaves as I described, it may last
for a good long time.

Or is it best to rewind the coil with new wire?

I've never seen uncoiled nichrome wire of the size you'll likely be
needing. You can try to find a "replacement coil" of nichrome wire at an
appliance repair shop. Be sure the cross-section (gauge) of the new wire
is the same as the old one, and stretch out the replacement to have the
same number of turns per inch as the original -- it'll come tightly
coiled.

Good luck on finding such a replacement coil; they used to be quite
common, but last time I tried to find one (about three years ago) I was
totally unsuccessful.

Naturally, the "victim" had very old coils that could not be repaired by
the nifty "electric welding" technique I mentioned above. We had to buy
a new toaster -- and after only thirty-three years of daily use, too.
They just don't make things like they used to...

Isaac

"Isaac Wingfield" wrote in message
...
In article et,
DaveC wrote:

Nice old toaster has one dead heat coil.

If the owner want to keep it, what are the options? Are breaks easily
spliced
with hi-temp crimp of some kind?

Here's a "quick fix" that sometimes works for a long time and sometimes
fails quickly (depending, I think, on just how old and brittle the
nichrome wire is).

Mix some ordinary "Boraxo" powdered hand soap with a little water to
make a thick paste -- and you don't need much.

Take the broken ends of wire, bend a small loop into each, and interlock
the loops so the wires stay together.

Pack the Boraxo paste around the joint, and turn on the heater.

Keep your eyes on that joint. As the coil heats up, the hook joint will
be the worst connection, so it'll naturally get the hottest.

When it gets hot enough, the nichrome wires will melt, and, being fluxed
by the borate, will fuse together into a blob. The blob, now being
*larger* than the rest of the wires, will immediately cool down, and
will never again get as "red hot" as the rest of the heater.

Allow the coils to cool down and, using pliers, carefully crush any
glassy flux deposit that remains on the joint.

If the joint doesn't behave as I describe, or if the wires are too
brittle to be formed into hooks, the wires are likely too old to produce
a long-lasting joint. If the joint behaves as I described, it may last
for a good long time.

Or is it best to rewind the coil with new wire?

I've never seen uncoiled nichrome wire of the size you'll likely be
needing. You can try to find a "replacement coil" of nichrome wire at an
appliance repair shop. Be sure the cross-section (gauge) of the new wire
is the same as the old one, and stretch out the replacement to have the
same number of turns per inch as the original -- it'll come tightly
coiled.

Good luck on finding such a replacement coil; they used to be quite
common, but last time I tried to find one (about three years ago) I was
totally unsuccessful.

Naturally, the "victim" had very old coils that could not be repaired by
the nifty "electric welding" technique I mentioned above. We had to buy
a new toaster -- and after only thirty-three years of daily use, too.
They just don't make things like they used to...

Isaac

I must try that one sometime.
I've plenty of Borax and Boric acid powders for use as fireproofing
solution on absorbent materials.
You don't happen to know which one relates to Boraxo ?

" bravely wrote to "All" (12 Feb 05 01:51:13)
--- on the heady topic of " Fix for toaster heat coil?"

my From:
my Xref: aeinews sci.electronics.repair:10309

my Since this topic came up. I have a nearly new toaster, but I got a
my mouse in the house an the damn thing had to go in my toaster, which I
my could tell from the mouse poop on the bottom. I am not going to use
my the toaster unless I can thoroughly wash it out. Is it possible to
my dip the whole toaster in a pail of bleach water and then rinse and let
my it completely dry before plugging it in? I know most electrical
my devices can be submerged in water as long as they totally dry before
my being used. I just wonder if the toaster will hold up? I guess it's
my trash either way, because it will go in the trash if I can not clean
my it, and will get trashed if i do clean it and it no longer works, so
my all I can do is try. But I thought I'd ask anyhow.


The bleach alone won't rid the toaster of the odour because of the
ammonia in the urine. You need to first use a very mild acid such as
vinegar or other to neutralize the ammonia. Trouble is any acid is bad
for the paint finish and electrical switch contacts but those in a
simple toaster (without any electronics) are pretty tough. You might
get away with only dunking the crumb catcher plate in the
vinegar/bleach and then let it soak in soapy water overnight to
dissipate whatever odour remains. If that doesn't do it then redo the
whole toaster and blow it dry. Let it dry overnight before using it.
BTW toasters are relatively cheap, about $10-$15. Is it worth the
effort?

A*s*i*m*o*v

.... [] - Please write your complaint legibly in that box.

On Sat, 12 Feb 2005 01:51:13 -0600, wrote:



Since this topic came up. I have a nearly new toaster, but I got a
mouse in the house an the damn thing had to go in my toaster, which I
could tell from the mouse poop on the bottom. I am not going to use
the toaster unless I can thoroughly wash it out. Is it possible to
dip the whole toaster in a pail of bleach water and then rinse and let
it completely dry before plugging it in? I know most electrical
devices can be submerged in water as long as they totally dry before
being used. I just wonder if the toaster will hold up? I guess it's
trash either way, because it will go in the trash if I can not cle


I've run disassembled toasters through the dishwasher with no
problems. Let it dry for a few days before using it, but it shouldn't
hurt anything.
Andy Cuffe

-- Use this email address first

In article ,
"N Cook" wrote:

"Isaac Wingfield" wrote in message
...
In article et,
DaveC wrote:

Nice old toaster has one dead heat coil.

If the owner want to keep it, what are the options? Are breaks easily
spliced
with hi-temp crimp of some kind?

Here's a "quick fix" that sometimes works for a long time and sometimes
fails quickly (depending, I think, on just how old and brittle the
nichrome wire is).

Mix some ordinary "Boraxo" powdered hand soap with a little water to
make a thick paste -- and you don't need much.

Take the broken ends of wire, bend a small loop into each, and interlock
the loops so the wires stay together.

Pack the Boraxo paste around the joint, and turn on the heater.

Keep your eyes on that joint. As the coil heats up, the hook joint will
be the worst connection, so it'll naturally get the hottest.

When it gets hot enough, the nichrome wires will melt, and, being fluxed
by the borate, will fuse together into a blob. The blob, now being
*larger* than the rest of the wires, will immediately cool down, and
will never again get as "red hot" as the rest of the heater.

Allow the coils to cool down and, using pliers, carefully crush any
glassy flux deposit that remains on the joint.

If the joint doesn't behave as I describe, or if the wires are too
brittle to be formed into hooks, the wires are likely too old to produce
a long-lasting joint. If the joint behaves as I described, it may last
for a good long time.

Or is it best to rewind the coil with new wire?

I've never seen uncoiled nichrome wire of the size you'll likely be
needing. You can try to find a "replacement coil" of nichrome wire at an
appliance repair shop. Be sure the cross-section (gauge) of the new wire
is the same as the old one, and stretch out the replacement to have the
same number of turns per inch as the original -- it'll come tightly
coiled.

Good luck on finding such a replacement coil; they used to be quite
common, but last time I tried to find one (about three years ago) I was
totally unsuccessful.

Naturally, the "victim" had very old coils that could not be repaired by
the nifty "electric welding" technique I mentioned above. We had to buy
a new toaster -- and after only thirty-three years of daily use, too.
They just don't make things like they used to...

Isaac

I must try that one sometime.
I've plenty of Borax and Boric acid powders for use as fireproofing
solution on absorbent materials.
You don't happen to know which one relates to Boraxo ?

Use the borax; that's what is in Boraxo. I suspect that boric acid paste
would work, too, but may be a bit more toxic.

Isaac

"DaveC" wrote in message
t...
On Fri, 11 Feb 2005 21:55:13 -0700, Isaac Wingfield wrote
(in article ):

In article et,
DaveC wrote:

Nice old toaster has one dead heat coil.

If the owner want to keep it, what are the options? Are breaks easily
spliced
with hi-temp crimp of some kind?

Here's a "quick fix" that sometimes works for a long time and sometimes
fails quickly (depending, I think, on just how old and brittle the
nichrome wire is).

Mix some ordinary "Boraxo" powdered hand soap with a little water to
make a thick paste -- and you don't need much.

Take the broken ends of wire, bend a small loop into each, and interlock
the loops so the wires stay together.

Pack the Boraxo paste around the joint, and turn on the heater.

Keep your eyes on that joint. As the coil heats up, the hook joint will
be the worst connection, so it'll naturally get the hottest.

When it gets hot enough, the nichrome wires will melt, and, being fluxed
by the borate, will fuse together into a blob. The blob, now being
*larger* than the rest of the wires, will immediately cool down, and
will never again get as "red hot" as the rest of the heater.

Allow the coils to cool down and, using pliers, carefully crush any
glassy flux deposit that remains on the joint.

If the joint doesn't behave as I describe, or if the wires are too
brittle to be formed into hooks, the wires are likely too old to produce
a long-lasting joint. If the joint behaves as I described, it may last
for a good long time.

Or is it best to rewind the coil with new wire?

I've never seen uncoiled nichrome wire of the size you'll likely be
needing. You can try to find a "replacement coil" of nichrome wire at an
appliance repair shop. Be sure the cross-section (gauge) of the new wire
is the same as the old one, and stretch out the replacement to have the
same number of turns per inch as the original -- it'll come tightly
coiled.

Good luck on finding such a replacement coil; they used to be quite
common, but last time I tried to find one (about three years ago) I was
totally unsuccessful.

Naturally, the "victim" had very old coils that could not be repaired by
the nifty "electric welding" technique I mentioned above. We had to buy
a new toaster -- and after only thirty-three years of daily use, too.
They just don't make things like they used to...

Isaac

I was planning to use this very creative solution... but the break is
right
at the rivet, the spot where the nichrome wire transitions to the stranded
/
insulated supply wire.

How might I mend this? Ideas?

Thanks,
--
Please, no "Go Google this" replies. I wouldn't
ask a question here if I hadn't done that already.

DaveC

This is an invalid return address
Please reply in the news group

I've tried a nut and bolt; not very successfully!

Try a pop rivet



"DaveC" wrote in message
t...
On Fri, 11 Feb 2005 21:55:13 -0700, Isaac Wingfield wrote
(in article ):

In article et,
DaveC wrote:

Nice old toaster has one dead heat coil.

If the owner want to keep it, what are the options? Are breaks easily
spliced
with hi-temp crimp of some kind?

Here's a "quick fix" that sometimes works for a long time and sometimes
fails quickly (depending, I think, on just how old and brittle the
nichrome wire is).

Mix some ordinary "Boraxo" powdered hand soap with a little water to
make a thick paste -- and you don't need much.

Take the broken ends of wire, bend a small loop into each, and interlock
the loops so the wires stay together.

Pack the Boraxo paste around the joint, and turn on the heater.

Keep your eyes on that joint. As the coil heats up, the hook joint will
be the worst connection, so it'll naturally get the hottest.

When it gets hot enough, the nichrome wires will melt, and, being fluxed
by the borate, will fuse together into a blob. The blob, now being
*larger* than the rest of the wires, will immediately cool down, and
will never again get as "red hot" as the rest of the heater.

Allow the coils to cool down and, using pliers, carefully crush any
glassy flux deposit that remains on the joint.

If the joint doesn't behave as I describe, or if the wires are too
brittle to be formed into hooks, the wires are likely too old to produce
a long-lasting joint. If the joint behaves as I described, it may last
for a good long time.

Or is it best to rewind the coil with new wire?

I've never seen uncoiled nichrome wire of the size you'll likely be
needing. You can try to find a "replacement coil" of nichrome wire at an
appliance repair shop. Be sure the cross-section (gauge) of the new wire
is the same as the old one, and stretch out the replacement to have the
same number of turns per inch as the original -- it'll come tightly
coiled.

Good luck on finding such a replacement coil; they used to be quite
common, but last time I tried to find one (about three years ago) I was
totally unsuccessful.

Naturally, the "victim" had very old coils that could not be repaired by
the nifty "electric welding" technique I mentioned above. We had to buy
a new toaster -- and after only thirty-three years of daily use, too.
They just don't make things like they used to...

Isaac

I was planning to use this very creative solution... but the break is
right
at the rivet, the spot where the nichrome wire transitions to the stranded
/
insulated supply wire.

How might I mend this? Ideas?

Thanks,
--
Please, no "Go Google this" replies. I wouldn't
ask a question here if I hadn't done that already.

DaveC

This is an invalid return address
Please reply in the news group

"DaveC" wrote in message
t...
On Tue, 26 Apr 2005 05:11:52 -0700, david wrote
(in article ) :

Try a pop rivet

Too soft, I think. Should be plated.

I used a plated crimp. See earlier post about my solution.

IIRC shoe repair places have hollow brass rivets.
--
N

NSM wrote:
"DaveC" wrote in message
t...

On Tue, 26 Apr 2005 05:11:52 -0700, david wrote
(in article ) :


Try a pop rivet

Too soft, I think. Should be plated.

I used a plated crimp. See earlier post about my solution.


IIRC shoe repair places have hollow brass rivets.

I dont know if anyone suggested this earlier, but you can get small
crimp sleeves for microtemp thermal fuses that might work

Ron (UK)