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Electronics Repair (sci.electronics.repair) Discussion of repairing electronic equipment. Topics include requests for assistance, where to obtain servicing information and parts, techniques for diagnosis and repair, and annecdotes about success, failures and problems. |
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ESR Meter MK-II
I just wanted to share my recent experience with building the ESR meter,
batch number 7214211 for anyone interested. I ordered from John's Jukes Ltd. and was told to expect it in a week or so. Heck with that - I got it in 3 days! So, that weekend I started on it. I had already read all the instructions before starting (I know, one of those...) so the start of assembling was easy - unpack things into a small tray and have at it. Not knowing for sure what I was going to receive, I had printed out the downloaded instructions in color to pre-study and assist me. Keep in mind that these are only comments to help Bob & others, not complaints - I am well pleased with the kit and the meter. 1. The kit came with a set of printed instructions in black and white and I found my color ones to be a handy reference for verification. 2. The kit also came with a page with 2 corrections. It would be nice for Bob to get the internet copies updated. 3. Page 9 is missing the identification of figure 7. I was trying to do this project slowly & carefully and it took a bit to find it and make sure I understood the point. 4. I chose to put longer wires on the switch & posts so I could separate the front panel from the circuit board. User preference. 5. I wasn't able to bend the battery holder tab on the large one far enough to directly solder it to the smaller one per the instructions. I had to join them with a short piece of wire. Not a problem. 6. The annotation on Fig. 13 for the tape that holds the battery holders is mis-spelled in that it's missing an "l". Then you could also go to the point that all tape has 2 sides... :-) 7. I found that the schematic called for D3 & D4 to be 1N4002, when in fact the supplied ones were 1N4004. Fig 9a & the parts list show them as 1N4004. 8. For me the easiest way to install the components was to pick a resistor, bend all of that value, and then install them. That way it was a double check right then as to whether or not I had found them all. When I got down to the last two resistors, I hunted all over the board to find a home for them. Upon not finding them, I finally went back to the Parts List and saw that they were only for calibration and didn't have a home. Guess I didn't *completely* read the instructions. :-( 9. I only used about 10% of the included solder. It was certainly more than plenty, but better than running out. 10. The silk screening verbiage didn't exactly match the diagrams, but it wasn't a problem. Bottom line is that all the parts were there and in good condition. I was able to assemble the kit, run the diagnostics (all ok), and use it without having to ask anyone anything. Good job guys! Bob, consider this my returned Quality Control Card. WT |
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the supplied ones were 1N4004.
1N4001 through 4007 are the same family of diodes with 4007 having the highest ratings. You can always use a higher number within that range. In a way you could consider it a free upgrade. JURB |
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That was my conclusion also. Thanks for the confirmation.
WT "JURB6006" wrote in message ... the supplied ones were 1N4004. 1N4001 through 4007 are the same family of diodes with 4007 having the highest ratings. You can always use a higher number within that range. In a way you could consider it a free upgrade. JURB |
#4
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4. I chose to put longer wires on the switch & posts so I could separate
the front panel from the circuit board. User preference. Bottom line is that all the parts were there and in good condition. I was able to assemble the kit, run the diagnostics (all ok), and use it without having to ask anyone anything. Good job guys! Bob, consider this my returned Quality Control Card. http://members.ozemail.com.au/~bobpar/esrmeter.htm I just built one of them found it a great kit, but I just had to mod it by drilling holes under the pots so they can be adjusted without removing front panel. I did then have to reroute a track with a resistor leg :-) my 2cents worth David |
#5
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Hi Wayne and everyone,
I've sent all your comments to the people in the Dick Smith Electronics Kit Department, to refer to next time they update their kit notes. I'm also trying to get hold of the corrections so I can put them on my website. Thanks for taking the time to write down all your experiences and thoughts. I hope you find lots of defective caps with your new meter. Regards, Bob "Wayne Tiffany" wrote: I just wanted to share my recent experience with building the ESR meter, batch number 7214211 for anyone interested. I ordered from John's Jukes Ltd. and was told to expect it in a week or so. Heck with that - I got it in 3 days! So, that weekend I started on it. I had already read all the instructions before starting (I know, one of those...) so the start of assembling was easy - unpack things into a small tray and have at it. Not knowing for sure what I was going to receive, I had printed out the downloaded instructions in color to pre-study and assist me. Keep in mind that these are only comments to help Bob & others, not complaints - I am well pleased with the kit and the meter. 1. The kit came with a set of printed instructions in black and white and I found my color ones to be a handy reference for verification. 2. The kit also came with a page with 2 corrections. It would be nice for Bob to get the internet copies updated. 3. Page 9 is missing the identification of figure 7. I was trying to do this project slowly & carefully and it took a bit to find it and make sure I understood the point. 4. I chose to put longer wires on the switch & posts so I could separate the front panel from the circuit board. User preference. 5. I wasn't able to bend the battery holder tab on the large one far enough to directly solder it to the smaller one per the instructions. I had to join them with a short piece of wire. Not a problem. 6. The annotation on Fig. 13 for the tape that holds the battery holders is mis-spelled in that it's missing an "l". Then you could also go to the point that all tape has 2 sides... :-) 7. I found that the schematic called for D3 & D4 to be 1N4002, when in fact the supplied ones were 1N4004. Fig 9a & the parts list show them as 1N4004. 8. For me the easiest way to install the components was to pick a resistor, bend all of that value, and then install them. That way it was a double check right then as to whether or not I had found them all. When I got down to the last two resistors, I hunted all over the board to find a home for them. Upon not finding them, I finally went back to the Parts List and saw that they were only for calibration and didn't have a home. Guess I didn't *completely* read the instructions. :-( 9. I only used about 10% of the included solder. It was certainly more than plenty, but better than running out. 10. The silk screening verbiage didn't exactly match the diagrams, but it wasn't a problem. Bottom line is that all the parts were there and in good condition. I was able to assemble the kit, run the diagnostics (all ok), and use it without having to ask anyone anything. Good job guys! Bob, consider this my returned Quality Control Card. WT |
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