Can anyone tell me what caps (on what boards) other than
the infamous ones in the power supply have also had a
reputation of causing problems with this VCR?

I have looked through the SLV-R5UC archives, but haven't
been able to come up with anything specific. My R5 has
gone through the usual cycle of needing the power supply
caps, sticky lub arm, back-up cap, capstan bearing, bad
solder joints in the tuner, magenta bleed, etc, fixed.

But now, all of a sudden, normal EP mode records with
colored snow (although EP Super VHS and SP record ok),
and intermittently on playback at any speed, the picture
starts to jump, gets full of snow, and then pretty well looks
like having the TV on the wrong channel -- becoming
totally unwatchable.

After switching the R5 off and waiting for a few hours,
the picture quality (except for EP mode) is sometimes
(and sometimes not) perfect again, and may (or may not)
remain that way for several days, until the problem recurs
again. I also installed new video heads, which made no
difference.
Trouble-shooting is a bit of a headache since I don't
have a scope, so any ideas (more faulty caps?) would be
appreciated. Thanks, -Ron

On Tue, 27 Jul 2004 15:58:03 -0400, "Ron" wrote:

Can anyone tell me what caps (on what boards) other than
the infamous ones in the power supply have also had a
reputation of causing problems with this VCR?

Probably not anything to do with the troubles you are experiencing,
but thought I'd mention that the Sony PSU service kit changes the
value for three of the caps. Dunno how critical the correction is,
but thought it worth noting in case folks are just changing them out
with equivalents. What I recieved:

Kit: A-6759-574-A
cap# Orig. New
*C201 50v 120uF 50v 100uF
C202 25v 560uF 25v 560uF
*C203 25v 1500uF 35v 1200uF
C204 16v 2200uF 16v 2200uF
C205 10v 3300uF 10v 3300uF
C206 16v 470uF 16v 470uF
C207 10v 1200uF 10v 1200uF
C211 50v 0.47uF 50v 0.47uF
C214 16v 120uF 16v 120uF
C216 10v 470uF 10v 470uF
*C218 10v 120uF 16v 120uF
C219 50v 1uF 50v 1uF
C220 50v 120uF 50v 100uF

Electrolytic caps not in kit:
C105 200v 390uF
C108 250v 1uF
C213 16v 330uF
C215 16v 220uF
C217 10v 220uF

All of these should be 105'C rated... the old Elna caps originally
used apparently had design flaws that resulted in leaking, but were
also only rated for 85'C and these PSUs seem to normally run very hot.
C105 and 108 in my unit had also leaked.
-KD

--
To reply via email: this ID @a well known service related to yodeling.com

Thanks for listing the cap comparison below.
Problem is, this only happened recently, long after I had
changed the power supply caps - after which everything had
worked fine. I remember reading a post some time ago where
other caps were mentioned to have caused picture problems,
but the post didn't mention any specific boards involved. -Ron

"Cyclograph" wrote in message
Probably not anything to do with the troubles you are experiencing,
but thought I'd mention that the Sony PSU service kit changes the
value for three of the caps. Dunno how critical the correction is,
but thought it worth noting in case folks are just changing them out
with equivalents. What I recieved:

Kit: A-6759-574-A
cap# Orig. New
*C201 50v 120uF 50v 100uF
C202 25v 560uF 25v 560uF
*C203 25v 1500uF 35v 1200uF
C204 16v 2200uF 16v 2200uF
C205 10v 3300uF 10v 3300uF
C206 16v 470uF 16v 470uF
C207 10v 1200uF 10v 1200uF
C211 50v 0.47uF 50v 0.47uF
C214 16v 120uF 16v 120uF
C216 10v 470uF 10v 470uF
*C218 10v 120uF 16v 120uF
C219 50v 1uF 50v 1uF
C220 50v 120uF 50v 100uF

Electrolytic caps not in kit:
C105 200v 390uF
C108 250v 1uF
C213 16v 330uF
C215 16v 220uF
C217 10v 220uF

All of these should be 105'C rated... the old Elna caps originally
used apparently had design flaws that resulted in leaking, but were
also only rated for 85'C and these PSUs seem to normally run very hot.
C105 and 108 in my unit had also leaked.
-KD

I found bad caps on the "Selector Switch" daughter card causing video
problems with one of my R5's. I have also replaced all the electrolytics on
the Audio daughter card.

All of my euipment and service manuals are in storage right now following a
move so this is from memory. Try a Google Usenet search and see what you
come up with. I think it was discussed in one of the 2 groups you posted
to.

Good Luck,
Jeff


Thanks for listing the cap comparison below.
Problem is, this only happened recently, long after I had
changed the power supply caps - after which everything had
worked fine. I remember reading a post some time ago where
other caps were mentioned to have caused picture problems,
but the post didn't mention any specific boards involved. -Ron

Looks like this is the PI-20 board according to the service manual.
I remember now reading about that somewhere. Thanks, I'll start with
those caps and see what happens. -Ron

"Jeff" wrote
I found bad caps on the "Selector Switch" daughter card causing video
problems with one of my R5's. I have also replaced all the electrolytics
on
the Audio daughter card.

All of my euipment and service manuals are in storage right now following
a
move so this is from memory. Try a Google Usenet search and see what you
come up with. I think it was discussed in one of the 2 groups you posted
to.

Good Luck,
Jeff

I found bad caps on the "Selector Switch" daughter card causing video
problems with one of my R5's. I have also replaced all the electrolytics on
the Audio daughter card.

On the audio daughter card, I'm willing to bet that it used those metallic red
Elna "Duorex II" caps, yes? - Reinhart

"LASERandDVDfan" wrote in message
As for your picture problems, it may still be related to substandard
caps in the power supply. A marginal power supply can cause all
sorts of quirky symptoms.
Good luck and let us know how everything goes. - Reinhart
...
I changed more Elna caps on the PI-20 selector switch board,
and all the other caps left on the power supply board, but the
problem is the same. All the PS voltages check out ok except
for the UNSWITCHED -30V measurement, which is -33.7V
(-37.5V when ON), instead of the specified -27.5V +2.5/-3V.

The funny thing is that the unit RECORDS perfectly in SP, not
great, but watchable in EP, and great again in S-EP (I can also
play back the recorded tape perfectly on another VCR).

It also PLAYS back S-EP flawlessly, N-EP is not great, but
watchable, but there is no playback picture now at all in S-SP
or N-SP, either when recorded with the R5, or when recorded
from another VCR.
Looks like this is a problem unique to my unit, and not one
of the more common problems most other R5 owners have
experienced. -Ron

Just in case someone else is running into the same
problem with their R5...
Symptoms were as follows:

S-EP and N-EP recording ok.
S-EP and N-EP playback ok.
S-SP and N-SP recording ok.

S-SP and N-SP playback would be ok at first, but then
started to become gradually unwatchable after the unit
was on from several minutes to a couple of hours or so.
Unplugging the VCR for a while would temporarily fix the
problem (several months ago), but over the last few weeks,
this helped less and less, and finally it didn't help at all any
longer.
Changing those infamous ELNA electrolytic caps on several
other boards in addition to the ones in the power supply
wasn't the solution this time. However, it did turn out to
be a capacitor on the Head Amp board (RP-76).

I had already checked all caps previously from the conductor
side, and they were all ok, but this one (C240) was a surface
mount cap and couldn't be reached or seen without
unsoldering the shielding first.
It had leaked and partly dissolved some of the traces around,
so it required some "micro-surgery" to rewire a couple of diodes
and transistors, and to scrape off the mess it had created.

After replacing it with a recycled, run-of-the-mill 10V/22uF cap,
this R5 is working again like a charm!! -Ron

Just in case someone else is running into the same
problem with their R5...
Symptoms were as follows:

S-EP and N-EP recording ok.
S-EP and N-EP playback ok.
S-SP and N-SP recording ok.

S-SP and N-SP playback would be ok at first, but then
started to become gradually unwatchable after the unit
was on from several minutes to a couple of hours or so.
Unplugging the VCR for a while would temporarily fix the
problem, but over the last few days, this helped less and
less, and finally it didn't help at all any longer.

Changing those infamous ELNA electrolytic caps on several
other boards in addition to the ones in the power supply
wasn't the solution this time. However, it did turn out to
be a bad capacitor on the Head Amp board (RP-76).

I had already checked all caps previously from the conductor
side, and they were all ok, but this one (C240) was a surface
mount cap and couldn't be reached or seen without
unsoldering the shielding first.
It had leaked and partly dissolved some of the traces around,
so it required some "micro-surgery" to rewire a couple of diodes
and transistors, and to scrape off the mess it had created.

After replacing it with a recycled, run-of-the-mill 10V/22uF cap,
this R5 is working again like a charm!! -Ron

Ron wrote:

Just in case someone else is running into the same
problem with their R5...
Symptoms were as follows:

S-EP and N-EP recording ok.
S-EP and N-EP playback ok.
S-SP and N-SP recording ok.

S-SP and N-SP playback would be ok at first, but then
started to become gradually unwatchable after the unit
was on from several minutes to a couple of hours or so.
Unplugging the VCR for a while would temporarily fix the
problem (several months ago), but over the last few weeks,
this helped less and less, and finally it didn't help at all any
longer.
Changing those infamous ELNA electrolytic caps on several
other boards in addition to the ones in the power supply
wasn't the solution this time. However, it did turn out to
be a capacitor on the Head Amp board (RP-76).

I had already checked all caps previously from the conductor
side, and they were all ok, but this one (C240) was a surface
mount cap and couldn't be reached or seen without
unsoldering the shielding first.
It had leaked and partly dissolved some of the traces around,
so it required some "micro-surgery" to rewire a couple of diodes
and transistors, and to scrape off the mess it had created.

After replacing it with a recycled, run-of-the-mill 10V/22uF cap,
this R5 is working again like a charm!! -Ron








I'm happy to hear that. Yay for electronics wiz-kids!

- NR

"Ron" wrote in message ...

After replacing it with a recycled, run-of-the-mill 10V/22uF cap,
this R5 is working again like a charm!! -Ron

Well done buddy!
Still,I'm sure it took a lot longer to repair,than it took to read your story.
How do you actually earn a living?
Maybe you need a career change.
Again,Congratulations.

After replacing it with a recycled, run-of-the-mill 10V/22uF cap,
this R5 is working again like a charm!! -Ron

"NeoRenegade" wrote
I'm happy to hear that. Yay for electronics wiz-kids!
- NR

I guess the original $1,267.70 (CND) price tag, and the fact that
I have babied this thing through all its other hiccups over the years
didn't want to make me toss it like a $59 Wal-Mart special.
This is simply a fabulous, one-of-a-kind VCR when working
properly.

"LASERandDVDfan" wrote
Congratulations! Those surface mount caps sure are pesky little parts,
eh? -
Reinhart

Yeah, right - thank God for magnifying glasses! -Ron