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Electronics Repair (sci.electronics.repair) Discussion of repairing electronic equipment. Topics include requests for assistance, where to obtain servicing information and parts, techniques for diagnosis and repair, and annecdotes about success, failures and problems. |
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Identifying non-electrolytic capacitors?
Can someone help me identify these capacitors?
I have posted pictures of them he http://www.home.earthlink.net/~circu...apacitors.html These are on the tonal board of a 1974 Capehart stereo. The bass has always been a bit distrorted, more so when the bass is turned up. It's not very bad, but annoying enough. My questions are, what type of capacitors are these, and how do I identify what their ratings are? What is the difference between the orange types shown, and the green ones shown? What I could find, I think K and M are supposed to mean their tolerance. With K = 10% and M = 20%. Is this correct? For the ones with the minus or dash symbol inside a circle, does the minus/dash mean something? What about the letters of R (C1,2) and N (C11,12)? The parts have the following information on them: C1, C2: 473M 100 - R (the minus sign is inside a circle, as shown in the pictures) These are orange capacitors. C3, C4: .015 100 (?) Not sure what the (?) is. I think on one it looks like a 7 but I could be wrong. These are green capacitors. C5, C6: 222K These are orange capacitors. C7,C8: I wasn't able to access these. These are also orange capacitors and look similar in size to C5, C6. C9,C10: 50V - 1K These are green capacitors, fatter then C3, C4. C11,C12: 223M 50 - N These are orange capacitors, with the minus or dash sign inside a circle, as shown in the pictures. Thanks for all who can help me deciper and understand the code! |
#2
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Identifying non-electrolytic capacitors?
On Sat, 01 Nov 2003 14:19:13 -0800, anamouse wrote:
Can someone help me identify these capacitors? I have posted pictures of them he http://www.home.earthlink.net/~circu...apacitors.html These are on the tonal board of a 1974 Capehart stereo. The bass has always been a bit distrorted, more so when the bass is turned up. It's not very bad, but annoying enough. My questions are, what type of capacitors are these, and how do I identify what their ratings are? What is the difference between the orange types shown, and the green ones shown? What I could find, I think K and M are supposed to mean their tolerance. With K = 10% and M = 20%. Is this correct? For the ones with the minus or dash symbol inside a circle, does the minus/dash mean something? What about the letters of R (C1,2) and N (C11,12)? The parts have the following information on them: C1, C2: 473M 100 - R (the minus sign is inside a circle, as shown in the pictures) These are orange capacitors. C3, C4: .015 100 (?) Not sure what the (?) is. I think on one it looks like a 7 but I could be wrong. These are green capacitors. C5, C6: 222K These are orange capacitors. C7,C8: I wasn't able to access these. These are also orange capacitors and look similar in size to C5, C6. C9,C10: 50V - 1K These are green capacitors, fatter then C3, C4. C11,C12: 223M 50 - N These are orange capacitors, with the minus or dash sign inside a circle, as shown in the pictures. Thanks for all who can help me deciper and understand the code! C1, C2 0.047uF or 47000pF 100v (uF=microfarad pF=picofarad) C3, C4 0.015uF or 15000pF 100v C5, C6 2200pF no voltage shown probably 50v or 100v C7, C8 ?? ?? C9, C10 0.001uF or 1000pF 50V C11, C12 0.022uF or 22000pF 50V The letters are indeed the tolerances - just use 5% replacement and you won't go wrong. Whether this fixes your problem is another matter. -- Ian Barr Kick the cat to reply Using M2, Opera's revolutionary e-mail client: http://www.opera.com/m2/ |
#3
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Identifying non-electrolytic capacitors?
anamouse ) wrote:
: Can someone help me identify these capacitors? : Thanks for all who can help me deciper and understand the code! Although I hate to point out when someone is on the wrong track, you are on the wrong track. These capacitors, in my opinion, will probably out live you and your children, possibly grandchildren. These are all mylar caps probably seeing an audio level signal around 500mv at best. Although anything can happen to a device, it's not likely any of these are bad or went bad through the years. Being the "Capehart" name, is probably more likely one of them is the wrong value which was put in at the factory. Your problem, if I read it right was something happening to the bass when the volume went up. That is a pretty open wide complaint, likely to be a transistor or electrolytic cap in the audio amplifier section. At least that is where I would start poking around. Anyway, as far as reading the caps, generally anything marked 25, 50 or 100 (with or without the v after it) is going to be the max operating voltage. It's not likely to be of much importance in this case. General rule of thumb if you are going to replace any or all of them is equal or greater is fine. So if you run into a 104k 50v and can only find a 104k 100v, go for it. Won't make any difference. I also wouldn't worry about the R's N's, those probably are tolerences and would have little to no effect if a better grade was found. At least in this application. Again, general rule of thumb. The numbers before the K's and M's are the values, along with some written out (in the picture with the orange 222k's the greens appear to be .015 or ..045). I've seen the "rule of conversion" argued before because there are exceptions to this scheme, but the general rule of thumb with these is that the first 2 numbers are the value with the 3rd being how many zeros to use with the value. The arguement is what you do with the zeroes. Anyway, this would be a limited conversion... marked 221 would be 220pf marked 222 would be 2200pf or .0022uf marked 223 would be .022uf (i don't consider 22000pf a real value) marked 224 would be .22uf Anything larger (225) would more likely be an electrolytic and marked longhand (2.2uf). Just switch the first two digits with the above for the others, one marked 473 is the same as 223, just 47 instead of 22, so that would be .047uf. Only point of confusion are the 10's, but is the same (102 is .001 or 1000pf, 103 would be .01, 104 is a .1, 105 would be 1.0uf). But being the difficulty in replacing these and my original point about being on the wrong track, might be a good excerise in soldering if you wanted to replace all of these (along with a lesson about working in close quarters (good luck finding dial string these days)), it just isn't going to fix anything. -bruce |
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Identifying non-electrolytic capacitors?
On Sat, 01 Nov 2003 14:19:13 -0800, anamouse
wrote: Can someone help me identify these capacitors? I have posted pictures of them he http://www.home.earthlink.net/~circu...apacitors.html These are on the tonal board of a 1974 Capehart stereo. The bass has always been a bit distrorted, more so when the bass is turned up. It's not very bad, but annoying enough. My questions are, what type of capacitors are these, and how do I identify what their ratings are? What makes you think these capacitors are the source of your problem? I'd be looking in the power amp section, or maybe the power supply. |
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Identifying non-electrolytic capacitors?
On Sun, 02 Nov 2003 14:52:01 +0000, Laurence Payne wrote: On Sat, 01 Nov 2003 14:19:13 -0800, anamouse wrote: Can someone help me identify these capacitors? I have posted pictures of them he http://www.home.earthlink.net/~circu...apacitors.html These are on the tonal board of a 1974 Capehart stereo. The bass has always been a bit distrorted, more so when the bass is turned up. It's not very bad, but annoying enough. My questions are, what type of capacitors are these, and how do I identify what their ratings are? What makes you think these capacitors are the source of your problem? Laurence, I have already replaced all the electrolytic capacitors, as well as the carbon composition resistors, on the main circuit board. I originally did this because of the age of the radio. The sound quality was the same before the recap, though, so I am sure the recap did not introduce the bass problem. I'd be looking in the power amp section, or maybe the power supply. |
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Identifying non-electrolytic capacitors?
On Sat, 01 Nov 2003 23:25:56 -0000, Ian Barr wrote: Ian, thank's for posting the values! I'm still wondering though, what is the difference between the orange types shown, and the green ones shown? On Sat, 01 Nov 2003 14:19:13 -0800, anamouse wrote: Can someone help me identify these capacitors? I have posted pictures of them he http://www.home.earthlink.net/~circu...apacitors.html These are on the tonal board of a 1974 Capehart stereo. The bass has always been a bit distrorted, more so when the bass is turned up. It's not very bad, but annoying enough. My questions are, what type of capacitors are these, and how do I identify what their ratings are? What is the difference between the orange types shown, and the green ones shown? What I could find, I think K and M are supposed to mean their tolerance. With K = 10% and M = 20%. Is this correct? For the ones with the minus or dash symbol inside a circle, does the minus/dash mean something? What about the letters of R (C1,2) and N (C11,12)? The parts have the following information on them: C1, C2: 473M 100 - R (the minus sign is inside a circle, as shown in the pictures) These are orange capacitors. C3, C4: .015 100 (?) Not sure what the (?) is. I think on one it looks like a 7 but I could be wrong. These are green capacitors. C5, C6: 222K These are orange capacitors. C7,C8: I wasn't able to access these. These are also orange capacitors and look similar in size to C5, C6. C9,C10: 50V - 1K These are green capacitors, fatter then C3, C4. C11,C12: 223M 50 - N These are orange capacitors, with the minus or dash sign inside a circle, as shown in the pictures. Thanks for all who can help me deciper and understand the code! C1, C2 0.047uF or 47000pF 100v (uF=microfarad pF=picofarad) C3, C4 0.015uF or 15000pF 100v C5, C6 2200pF no voltage shown probably 50v or 100v C7, C8 ?? ?? C9, C10 0.001uF or 1000pF 50V C11, C12 0.022uF or 22000pF 50V The letters are indeed the tolerances - just use 5% replacement and you won't go wrong. Whether this fixes your problem is another matter. |
#8
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Identifying non-electrolytic capacitors?
I would like to think I know what I am doing BUT I
keep saying things that I have done that make no sense. ITS a CAPEHART unit! troubleshoot it to the problem or give it to someone who can.(If it has one) NEW it had poor sound quality OLD and used I would expect it to be worse. Changing every single part in it may fix it or it may not! Pick an area and start changing resistors and or capacitors is not a method of repair or troubleshooting it is barely even educated guesswork as you have applied it. Is the load (the speakers) the same it was designed for? Like 10W max.(maybe 20W) @ 8 ohm. Are you exceeding its rated output? Have you made any measurements at all? Have you any published specs on the unit? Have you tried bypassing the tone controls? Anything that makes any sense at all? And not a mention of a model number in case someone on this group may have a schematic on it.(like SAMS) Jeff "anamouse" wrote in message ... On Sun, 02 Nov 2003 14:52:01 +0000, Laurence Payne wrote: On Sat, 01 Nov 2003 14:19:13 -0800, anamouse wrote: Can someone help me identify these capacitors? I have posted pictures of them he http://www.home.earthlink.net/~circu...apacitors.html These are on the tonal board of a 1974 Capehart stereo. The bass has always been a bit distrorted, more so when the bass is turned up. It's not very bad, but annoying enough. My questions are, what type of capacitors are these, and how do I identify what their ratings are? What makes you think these capacitors are the source of your problem? Laurence, I have already replaced all the electrolytic capacitors, as well as the carbon composition resistors, on the main circuit board. I originally did this because of the age of the radio. The sound quality was the same before the recap, though, so I am sure the recap did not introduce the bass problem. I'd be looking in the power amp section, or maybe the power supply. |
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