Made by Chamberlin.
Receiver quit working, PCB is labeled 14LG300F.
Need schematic.

Thanks, Mikek

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On 5/28/2015 3:02 PM, amdx wrote:
Made by Chamberlin.
Receiver quit working, PCB is labeled 14LG300F.
Need schematic.

Thanks, Mikek


Not finding any usable information on the net.

I pulled the board out, inspected it, found a 3 watt resistor
that runs hot, couldn't be sure about the value possibly 470 ohms,
measures 501 ohms, reinstalled resistor. Noted a sooty area on a
the white plastic connector and a slightly brown, baked area under
a transistor, thought maybe the transistor had smoked, checks OK.
Reinstalled pcb in door opener, still doesn't work.
This morning putting the remote control back in the truck, pushed the
button, huh, it works. Hard to fix it when it works.
We'll see how long this lasts. :-)

Mikek

PS. I still want a schematic.


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In article , says...

On 5/28/2015 3:02 PM, amdx wrote:
Made by Chamberlin.
Receiver quit working, PCB is labeled 14LG300F.
Need schematic.

Thanks, Mikek


Not finding any usable information on the net.

I pulled the board out, inspected it, found a 3 watt resistor
that runs hot, couldn't be sure about the value possibly 470 ohms,
measures 501 ohms, reinstalled resistor. Noted a sooty area on a
the white plastic connector and a slightly brown, baked area under
a transistor, thought maybe the transistor had smoked, checks OK.
Reinstalled pcb in door opener, still doesn't work.
This morning putting the remote control back in the truck, pushed the
button, huh, it works. Hard to fix it when it works.
We'll see how long this lasts. :-)

Mikek


It's just smarter than you, you only need the remote while in the
truck! When you're out of the truck it's obvious you should be able
to open the door yourself!

Come on man, it's simple logic.


Jamie

On 5/30/2015 12:04 PM, M Philbrook wrote:
In article , says...

On 5/28/2015 3:02 PM, amdx wrote:
Made by Chamberlin.
Receiver quit working, PCB is labeled 14LG300F.
Need schematic.

Thanks, Mikek


Not finding any usable information on the net.

I pulled the board out, inspected it, found a 3 watt resistor
that runs hot, couldn't be sure about the value possibly 470 ohms,
measures 501 ohms, reinstalled resistor. Noted a sooty area on a
the white plastic connector and a slightly brown, baked area under
a transistor, thought maybe the transistor had smoked, checks OK.
Reinstalled pcb in door opener, still doesn't work.
This morning putting the remote control back in the truck, pushed the
button, huh, it works. Hard to fix it when it works.
We'll see how long this lasts. :-)

Mikek


It's just smarter than you, you only need the remote while in the
truck! When you're out of the truck it's obvious you should be able
to open the door yourself!

Come on man, it's simple logic.


Jamie

I can't argue with logic.
It's still working.
Mikek

PS. I have solved the sooty area, at least to my thinking.
The transistor that runs hot, caused the PCB to turn slightly brown,
I also created a chimney effect causing the air and it's contaminates to
rise to about an inch and deposit the contaminates on the white plastic
connector

In article , says...

On 5/30/2015 12:04 PM, M Philbrook wrote:
In article , says...

On 5/28/2015 3:02 PM, amdx wrote:
Made by Chamberlin.
Receiver quit working, PCB is labeled 14LG300F.
Need schematic.

Thanks, Mikek


Not finding any usable information on the net.

I pulled the board out, inspected it, found a 3 watt resistor
that runs hot, couldn't be sure about the value possibly 470 ohms,
measures 501 ohms, reinstalled resistor. Noted a sooty area on a
the white plastic connector and a slightly brown, baked area under
a transistor, thought maybe the transistor had smoked, checks OK.
Reinstalled pcb in door opener, still doesn't work.
This morning putting the remote control back in the truck, pushed the
button, huh, it works. Hard to fix it when it works.
We'll see how long this lasts. :-)

Mikek


It's just smarter than you, you only need the remote while in the
truck! When you're out of the truck it's obvious you should be able
to open the door yourself!

Come on man, it's simple logic.


Jamie

I can't argue with logic.
It's still working.
Mikek

PS. I have solved the sooty area, at least to my thinking.
The transistor that runs hot, caused the PCB to turn slightly brown,
I also created a chimney effect causing the air and it's contaminates to
rise to about an inch and deposit the contaminates on the white plastic
connector

Sounds like a bad Tranny or a bad design..

If the tranny has lost some of the beta, it could operate hot and just
barely enough to do the job it's in there for, may even not work at
times.

I would think if it's a design issue there should be references to it
all over the net, you can't hide things like that, people like to talk
about the bad things no matter who did it . Talking about good things
is simply boring !

jamie