What's a straightforward method for attaching equipment to the bench so it
won't "walk" off? (This is my desire, so let's not discuss why or why not
please.)

I have 3/16 steel cable and ferrules for making lanyards. But how best to
attach the lanyard to, say, an HP 34401 bench DMM or Tek 2465? Not adverse to
drilling the case as long as there is strength to be had and can limit the
possibility of shorting.

Thanks.

In sci.electronics.repair DaveC wrote:
What's a straightforward method for attaching equipment to the bench so it
won't "walk" off? (This is my desire, so let's not discuss why or why not
please.)

I have 3/16 steel cable and ferrules for making lanyards. But how best to
attach the lanyard to, say, an HP 34401 bench DMM or Tek 2465? Not adverse to
drilling the case as long as there is strength to be had and can limit the
possibility of shorting.

You could clamp down a 34401 to a flat bench with a steel banding. The
front and rear "bumpers" are thicker than the rest of the case so you
can't slide it out without disassembly. There are no bottom screws so the
trick people used to keep VCRs from vanishing off AV carts won't work.

If you don't mind equipment buthery there are plates for adding security
cables. Most glue on, some can be screwed or riveted into place. If you
install them nicely, you probably won't completely trash your resale
value. A school or governemnt worker would glue this **** right to the
front of the device.

http://www.flexguard.com/ez-catalog/X300675/5

Cydrome Leader wrote:
In sci.electronics.repair wrote:
What's a straightforward method for attaching equipment to the bench so it
won't "walk" off? (This is my desire, so let's not discuss why or why not
please.)

I have 3/16 steel cable and ferrules for making lanyards. But how best to
attach the lanyard to, say, an HP 34401 bench DMM or Tek 2465? Not adverse to
drilling the case as long as there is strength to be had and can limit the
possibility of shorting.

You could clamp down a 34401 to a flat bench with a steel banding. The
front and rear "bumpers" are thicker than the rest of the case so you
can't slide it out without disassembly. There are no bottom screws so the
trick people used to keep VCRs from vanishing off AV carts won't work.

If you don't mind equipment buthery there are plates for adding security
cables. Most glue on, some can be screwed or riveted into place. If you
install them nicely, you probably won't completely trash your resale
value. A school or governemnt worker would glue this **** right to the
front of the device.

http://www.flexguard.com/ez-catalog/X300675/5



"Mounts with super glue".
A little acetone or MEK will help easy removal.

On 8/13/2014 1:22 AM, Robert Baer wrote:
Cydrome Leader wrote:
In sci.electronics.repair wrote:
What's a straightforward method for attaching equipment to the bench
so it
won't "walk" off? (This is my desire, so let's not discuss why or why
not
please.)

I have 3/16 steel cable and ferrules for making lanyards. But how
best to
attach the lanyard to, say, an HP 34401 bench DMM or Tek 2465? Not
adverse to
drilling the case as long as there is strength to be had and can
limit the
possibility of shorting.

You could clamp down a 34401 to a flat bench with a steel banding. The
front and rear "bumpers" are thicker than the rest of the case so you
can't slide it out without disassembly. There are no bottom screws so the
trick people used to keep VCRs from vanishing off AV carts won't work.

If you don't mind equipment buthery there are plates for adding security
cables. Most glue on, some can be screwed or riveted into place. If you
install them nicely, you probably won't completely trash your resale
value. A school or governemnt worker would glue this **** right to the
front of the device.

http://www.flexguard.com/ez-catalog/X300675/5



"Mounts with super glue".
A little acetone or MEK will help easy removal.

I recall back when I was in college they replaced three mechanical four
banger calculators the size of large typewriters with three HP-65
calculators. To make sure they weren't stolen I think they used
security cradles which were epoxied to the stone lab bench top they sat
on. I'm surprised they didn't chain the stools to the bench too.

--

Rick

On Mon, 11 Aug 2014 22:27:55 -0700, the renowned DaveC
wrote:

What's a straightforward method for attaching equipment to the bench so it
won't "walk" off? (This is my desire, so let's not discuss why or why not
please.)

I have 3/16 steel cable and ferrules for making lanyards. But how best to
attach the lanyard to, say, an HP 34401 bench DMM or Tek 2465? Not adverse to
drilling the case as long as there is strength to be had and can limit the
possibility of shorting.

Thanks.

A lot of test equipment products have the "port" for the standard
notebook security cable (I think Kingston originated it, but there are
plenty of knock-offs floating aboot).


Best regards,
Spehro Pefhany
--
"it's the network..." "The Journey is the reward"
Info for manufacturers: http://www.trexon.com
Embedded software/hardware/analog Info for designers: http://www.speff.com

A lot of test equipment products have the "port" for the standard
notebook security cable (I think Kingston originated it, but there are
plenty of knock-offs floating aboot).

My TE must be too "old school" for that. My computers do have those.

On Mon, 11 Aug 2014 23:22:57 -0700, the renowned DaveC
wrote:

A lot of test equipment products have the "port" for the standard
notebook security cable (I think Kingston originated it, but there are
plenty of knock-offs floating aboot).

My TE must be too "old school" for that. My computers do have those.

The two Rigols and the one Tektronix I have on my bench all have them.
The Agilent, I don't think so.

--sp


Best regards,
Spehro Pefhany
--
"it's the network..." "The Journey is the reward"
Info for manufacturers: http://www.trexon.com
Embedded software/hardware/analog Info for designers: http://www.speff.com

In article ,
(greenaum) writes:
On Tue, 12 Aug 2014 01:56:35 -0400, Spehro Pefhany
sprachen:

A lot of test equipment products have the "port" for the standard
notebook security cable (I think Kingston originated it, but there are
plenty of knock-offs floating aboot).

Ah, you mean "Kensington". A brand-name that's become a standard.

They look very feeble to me. I never tried yanking on one to
destruction, but I find it hard to believe it wouldn't simply
snap the T-piece off the lock.

Sun Microsystem's desktop kit used to have a small (1cm) cube
of metal on the back with two holes drilled through the center.
One hole allowed you to screw the cube to the rear case (the
back of the hole was a smaller diameter to be clamped by the
screwhead). The other hole allowed you to pass a steel cable
through the cube, which when fitted, covered the screwhead so
you can't unscrew the block. I think the block fitted in a
slight recess in the case so you couldn't twist the block
itself to try and unscrew it (a locknut would do the same
if there was no matching recess).

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]

On 8/15/2014 10:23 AM, Andrew Gabriel wrote:
In article ,
(greenaum) writes:
On Tue, 12 Aug 2014 01:56:35 -0400, Spehro Pefhany
sprachen:

A lot of test equipment products have the "port" for the standard
notebook security cable (I think Kingston originated it, but there are
plenty of knock-offs floating aboot).

Ah, you mean "Kensington". A brand-name that's become a standard.

They look very feeble to me. I never tried yanking on one to
destruction, but I find it hard to believe it wouldn't simply
snap the T-piece off the lock.

Sun Microsystem's desktop kit used to have a small (1cm) cube
of metal on the back with two holes drilled through the center.
One hole allowed you to screw the cube to the rear case (the
back of the hole was a smaller diameter to be clamped by the
screwhead). The other hole allowed you to pass a steel cable
through the cube, which when fitted, covered the screwhead so
you can't unscrew the block. I think the block fitted in a
slight recess in the case so you couldn't twist the block
itself to try and unscrew it (a locknut would do the same
if there was no matching recess).

Yes, I'm sure you could yank hard enough and pull the cable out of the
equipment. This was designed to secure laptops, not spectrum analyzers.
If you yank the Kensington cable hard enough to pull it free from a
laptop you will destroy the laptop case and likely some of the
electronics inside. If the bench equipment is made anything like the
stuff I've seen from HP and Tek, it would just enlarge the hole the
cable fits in and do little other damage.

--

Rick

On Fri, 15 Aug 2014 14:23:47 +0000 (UTC),
(Andrew Gabriel) wrote:

In article ,
(greenaum) writes:
On Tue, 12 Aug 2014 01:56:35 -0400, Spehro Pefhany
sprachen:

A lot of test equipment products have the "port" for the standard
notebook security cable (I think Kingston originated it, but there are
plenty of knock-offs floating aboot).

Ah, you mean "Kensington". A brand-name that's become a standard.

They look very feeble to me. I never tried yanking on one to
destruction, but I find it hard to believe it wouldn't simply
snap the T-piece off the lock.

Most of the keys they plug into are plastic anyway. Their function is
to make IT feel secure. If these make them feel secure, it says a lot
about how they treat their data.

Sun Microsystem's desktop kit used to have a small (1cm) cube
of metal on the back with two holes drilled through the center.
One hole allowed you to screw the cube to the rear case (the
back of the hole was a smaller diameter to be clamped by the
screwhead). The other hole allowed you to pass a steel cable
through the cube, which when fitted, covered the screwhead so
you can't unscrew the block. I think the block fitted in a
slight recess in the case so you couldn't twist the block
itself to try and unscrew it (a locknut would do the same
if there was no matching recess).

IBM just made the hardware larger than the door. ;-)

Hi Andrew,

On 8/15/2014 7:23 AM, Andrew Gabriel wrote:
In ,
(greenaum) writes:
On Tue, 12 Aug 2014 01:56:35 -0400, Spehro Pefhany
sprachen:

A lot of test equipment products have the "port" for the standard
notebook security cable (I think Kingston originated it, but there are
plenty of knock-offs floating aboot).

Ah, you mean "Kensington". A brand-name that's become a standard.

They look very feeble to me. I never tried yanking on one to
destruction, but I find it hard to believe it wouldn't simply
snap the T-piece off the lock.

It doesn't even take that sort of effort! Most of the "locking devices"
that fit into the Kensington "slot" are very insecure -- easily "picked"
with a metal shim, etc.

Plastic cases with Kensington slots usually have a thin piece of
sheet metal on the inside to reinforce the "slot". But, it's still
relatively easy to grind away the plastic *and* that thin bit of sheet
metal (assuming the vendor hasn't decided to save a few micropennies
by eliminating it -- "locks keep honest people honest").

The laptop I fixed two days ago had an aluminum (?) case. It would have
taken all of 60 seconds to grind *around* the slot with a Dremel
(TmReg) and a small diameter "ball" milling tip. And, once free, clean
up the hole with the same tip. You could then LEAVE the clean hole
in place without fear of exposing the innards of the device as there is
usually an inner barrier to prevent the lock bits from infiltrating the
case!

Sun Microsystem's desktop kit used to have a small (1cm) cube
of metal on the back with two holes drilled through the center.

Actually, more of a prism than cube. A hole drilled "left to right"
(or top to bottom, depending on orientation) through it. Then,
another *recess* (square hole) cast into the piece normal to this
into which the fastening screw is placed and secured to the case.

One hole allowed you to screw the cube to the rear case (the
back of the hole was a smaller diameter to be clamped by the
screwhead). The other hole allowed you to pass a steel cable
through the cube, which when fitted, covered the screwhead so
you can't unscrew the block. I think the block fitted in a
slight recess in the case so you couldn't twist the block
itself to try and unscrew it (a locknut would do the same
if there was no matching recess).

As there is typically a plastic "skin" over an internal metal
structure (which receives the screw's threads), unless the
lock block is secured *well* (i.e., screwed down TIGHT), the
slop between the plastic case and inner metal frame is often
enough (with inward pressure) to allow you to rotate the block.
Of course, no guarantee that the screw head will rotate *with*
the block -- you could end up just spinning the block 'round
and 'round (with cable in the way while you are doing this!).

But, as with the Kensington approach, a Dremel can easily
grind through the little bit of metal "above" the cable to turn
the hole into a *slot* -- from which the cable can readily be
extracted. The locking block can then be removed and discarded
(if you don't want to be reminded of your transgression). Or,
replaced with another "borrowed" from another piece of kit
(the block and screw aren't typically needed to hold the case
closed; their function is largely anti-theft).

Locks keep honest people honest. As the OP still hasn't indicated
the level of threat that is faced (and attacker's motivation),
all this is just speculation.

On 8/15/2014 11:59 AM, Don Y wrote:
Hi Andrew,

On 8/15/2014 7:23 AM, Andrew Gabriel wrote:
In ,
(greenaum) writes:
On Tue, 12 Aug 2014 01:56:35 -0400, Spehro Pefhany
sprachen:

A lot of test equipment products have the "port" for the standard
notebook security cable (I think Kingston originated it, but there are
plenty of knock-offs floating aboot).

Ah, you mean "Kensington". A brand-name that's become a standard.

They look very feeble to me. I never tried yanking on one to
destruction, but I find it hard to believe it wouldn't simply
snap the T-piece off the lock.

It doesn't even take that sort of effort! Most of the "locking devices"
that fit into the Kensington "slot" are very insecure -- easily "picked"
with a metal shim, etc.

Plastic cases with Kensington slots usually have a thin piece of
sheet metal on the inside to reinforce the "slot". But, it's still
relatively easy to grind away the plastic *and* that thin bit of sheet
metal (assuming the vendor hasn't decided to save a few micropennies
by eliminating it -- "locks keep honest people honest").

The laptop I fixed two days ago had an aluminum (?) case. It would have
taken all of 60 seconds to grind *around* the slot with a Dremel
(TmReg) and a small diameter "ball" milling tip. And, once free, clean
up the hole with the same tip. You could then LEAVE the clean hole
in place without fear of exposing the innards of the device as there is
usually an inner barrier to prevent the lock bits from infiltrating the
case!

Sun Microsystem's desktop kit used to have a small (1cm) cube
of metal on the back with two holes drilled through the center.

Actually, more of a prism than cube. A hole drilled "left to right"
(or top to bottom, depending on orientation) through it. Then,
another *recess* (square hole) cast into the piece normal to this
into which the fastening screw is placed and secured to the case.

One hole allowed you to screw the cube to the rear case (the
back of the hole was a smaller diameter to be clamped by the
screwhead). The other hole allowed you to pass a steel cable
through the cube, which when fitted, covered the screwhead so
you can't unscrew the block. I think the block fitted in a
slight recess in the case so you couldn't twist the block
itself to try and unscrew it (a locknut would do the same
if there was no matching recess).

As there is typically a plastic "skin" over an internal metal
structure (which receives the screw's threads), unless the
lock block is secured *well* (i.e., screwed down TIGHT), the
slop between the plastic case and inner metal frame is often
enough (with inward pressure) to allow you to rotate the block.
Of course, no guarantee that the screw head will rotate *with*
the block -- you could end up just spinning the block 'round
and 'round (with cable in the way while you are doing this!).

But, as with the Kensington approach, a Dremel can easily
grind through the little bit of metal "above" the cable to turn
the hole into a *slot* -- from which the cable can readily be
extracted. The locking block can then be removed and discarded
(if you don't want to be reminded of your transgression). Or,
replaced with another "borrowed" from another piece of kit
(the block and screw aren't typically needed to hold the case
closed; their function is largely anti-theft).

Locks keep honest people honest. As the OP still hasn't indicated
the level of threat that is faced (and attacker's motivation),
all this is just speculation.

You don't understand how a Kensington lock is intended to work. The
point is not to keep a laptop from being taken by brute force. The
intent is to require that enough damage be done to the laptop in the
process that no one will want the unit. Grinding a gaping hole in the
side greatly reduces any resale value of a laptop which is already not
much to begin with. Used laptops aren't worth much and one with obvious
case damage is nearly worthless.

That said, lab equipment is a different animal and is worth a large
portion of its original value. A hole in the side might reduce it some,
but there would still be plenty of value to make it worth stealing even
if it requires doing some damage.

--

Rick

On 8/19/2014 3:46 PM, rickman wrote:
Locks keep honest people honest. As the OP still hasn't indicated
the level of threat that is faced (and attacker's motivation),
all this is just speculation.

You don't understand how a Kensington lock is intended to work. The
point is not to keep a laptop from being taken by brute force. The
intent is to require that enough damage be done to the laptop in the
process that no one will want the unit. Grinding a gaping hole in the

---------------^^^^^^ have you ruled out the *thief*? -- who may be
very happy with a $1500 laptop that has a "gaping hole" in the back
(that he has since covered with duct tape, Bondo, etc.)

side greatly reduces any resale value of a laptop which is already not
much to begin with. Used laptops aren't worth much and one with obvious
case damage is nearly worthless.

Cut the cable by which the "lock-mate" tethers the laptop to
whatever. Remove the remaining piece in the privacy/safety
of your own home. (this assume you have never hacked the locking
device in question -- and have never used a search engine to see
how easy it is!)

Most of the Kensington devices that I have seen are easily
thwarted (shims, picks, etc. -- e.g., a thin sheet of CARDBOARD,
fragment of a soda can, etc!).

I understand how ALL locks work: locks keep honest people honest.
Period.

On 8/11/2014 10:27 PM, DaveC wrote:
What's a straightforward method for attaching equipment to the bench so it
won't "walk" off? (This is my desire, so let's not discuss why or why not
please.)

I have 3/16 steel cable and ferrules for making lanyards. But how best to
attach the lanyard to, say, an HP 34401 bench DMM or Tek 2465? Not adverse to
drilling the case as long as there is strength to be had and can limit the
possibility of shorting.

How determined an adversary are you trying to protect against?
How much "defacing" of the equipment are YOU willing to undertake?

The ones at school were, IIRC, either strapped to the bench (e.g., scope's
tilting handle plus cable clamps), or using rack mount bits and angle
brackets (e.g., the bench DMMs are half rack width with mounting holes on
the sides, or something like that).

Tim

--
Seven Transistor Labs
Electrical Engineering Consultation
Website: http://seventransistorlabs.com

"DaveC" wrote in message
...
What's a straightforward method for attaching equipment to the bench so
it
won't "walk" off? (This is my desire, so let's not discuss why or why
not
please.)

I have 3/16 steel cable and ferrules for making lanyards. But how best
to
attach the lanyard to, say, an HP 34401 bench DMM or Tek 2465? Not
adverse to
drilling the case as long as there is strength to be had and can limit
the
possibility of shorting.

Thanks.

Tim Williams wrote:
The ones at school were, IIRC, either strapped to the bench (e.g., scope's
tilting handle plus cable clamps), or using rack mount bits and angle
brackets (e.g., the bench DMMs are half rack width with mounting holes on
the sides, or something like that).


Worst case then you'll have two very well secured handles on the bench
but no more scope.

--
Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/

Hi Joerg,

On 8/12/2014 1:03 PM, Joerg wrote:
Tim Williams wrote:
The ones at school were, IIRC, either strapped to the bench (e.g., scope's
tilting handle plus cable clamps), or using rack mount bits and angle
brackets (e.g., the bench DMMs are half rack width with mounting holes on
the sides, or something like that).

Worst case then you'll have two very well secured handles on the bench
but no more scope.

Which is why it is important to quantify your prospective attacker!

A new neighbor came over one hot summer Sunday complaining that he had
locked himself out of the house -- along with his wife and newborn
son. Apparently, the locksmith (in addition to wanting a fair bit of
money for a house call on Sunday) wouldn't come to the house until
"after the game".

It took me a bit more than a minute to figure out how to get into
his house -- without leaving any visible signs of damage/entry.
The look in his eyes was priceless: "THIS is my new neighbor???
Perhaps I'd best keep on his 'good side'!"

Locks keep honest people honest.

Don Y wrote:
Hi Joerg,

On 8/12/2014 1:03 PM, Joerg wrote:
Tim Williams wrote:
The ones at school were, IIRC, either strapped to the bench (e.g.,
scope's
tilting handle plus cable clamps), or using rack mount bits and angle
brackets (e.g., the bench DMMs are half rack width with mounting
holes on
the sides, or something like that).

Worst case then you'll have two very well secured handles on the bench
but no more scope.

Which is why it is important to quantify your prospective attacker!

A new neighbor came over one hot summer Sunday complaining that he had
locked himself out of the house -- along with his wife and newborn
son. Apparently, the locksmith (in addition to wanting a fair bit of
money for a house call on Sunday) wouldn't come to the house until
"after the game".

It took me a bit more than a minute to figure out how to get into
his house -- without leaving any visible signs of damage/entry.
The look in his eyes was priceless: "THIS is my new neighbor???
Perhaps I'd best keep on his 'good side'!"


My McGyver moment came in a missing child case. Not much time was
available. The parents asked me to see if the computer could be accessed
somehow but that it was password-protected for each user. A few minutes
later it was open, for all users, the whole wide hard drive. Some jaws
dropped when dad saw his tax return files pop up. Of course I did not
open any of those.


Locks keep honest people honest.

--
Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/

Hi Joerg,

On 8/13/2014 2:47 PM, Joerg wrote:

My McGyver moment came in a missing child case. Not much time was
available. The parents asked me to see if the computer could be accessed
somehow but that it was password-protected for each user. A few minutes
later it was open, for all users, the whole wide hard drive. Some jaws
dropped when dad saw his tax return files pop up. Of course I did not
open any of those.

Most people don't think about how to get around "security"
measures -- which is why they are reasonably effective!
I.e., the *initial* impediment tells them, "you shouldn't
be doing this" -- and, they comply!

But, if you are *truly* trying to protect something, then you
have to take into consideration *every* adversary. Including
those that would "invest" *more* than the (apparent!) value of
the item being protected (perhaps because they evaluate its
value -- and their costs! -- on a different scale from yours)

A friend is actively involved in disaster preparedness for
state and federal agencies. He always delights in how "well"
the drills, full-scale exercises turn out! I gently remind
him that the folks involved in those drills *want* them to work
out well -- even the "volunteers" posing as victims, etc.

"Want an idea of what a *real* scenario will likely be? Put
a pile of cash in the room (i.e., the "scarce resources you will
be metering out in a disaster) and open the event 'to all comers'.
And, make sure you've got live ammo in your weapons -- cuz some
of the self-invited participants likely will!"

On Mon, 11 Aug 2014 22:27:55 -0700, DaveC wrote:

What's a straightforward method for attaching equipment to the bench so
it won't "walk" off? (This is my desire, so let's not discuss why or why
not please.)

I have 3/16 steel cable and ferrules for making lanyards. But how best
to attach the lanyard to, say, an HP 34401 bench DMM or Tek 2465? Not
adverse to drilling the case as long as there is strength to be had and
can limit the possibility of shorting.

Thanks.

I assume this is for security reasons. If so, then what everyone else
has said.

For earthquake resistance or for a test bench in a vehicle, where they
need to be mechanically secure but not at all proof from thievery, then
you want a different approach. In that case I'd run a nylon strap over
the top of each one and cinch it down. You can get straps & buckles &
whatnot at REI and similar outdoor stores.

--
Tim Wescott
Control system and signal processing consulting
www.wescottdesign.com

On 08/11/2014 10:27 PM, DaveC wrote:
What's a straightforward method for attaching equipment to the bench so it
won't "walk" off? (This is my desire, so let's not discuss why or why not
please.)

I have 3/16 steel cable and ferrules for making lanyards. But how best to
attach the lanyard to, say, an HP 34401 bench DMM or Tek 2465? Not adverse to
drilling the case as long as there is strength to be had and can limit the
possibility of shorting.

Thanks.


Steel strapping?

If you are trying to prevent theft then probably need aircraft cable
locks like used for bicycles and then put metal loops on the cabinets.

John :-#)#

--
(Please post followups or tech inquiries to the newsgroup)
John's Jukes Ltd. 2343 Main St., Vancouver, BC, Canada V5T 3C9
(604)872-5757 or Fax 872-2010 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games)
www.flippers.com
"Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."

and then put metal loops on the cabinets

It's this part I'm pondering "how best"...

Thanks.

On Tue, 12 Aug 2014 11:41:00 -0700, DaveC wrote:

and then put metal loops on the cabinets

It's this part I'm pondering "how best"...

Thanks.

Looping it through some pre-existing hole works. If you have a desk
with the usual holes for power etc. cables, this:

http://www.amazon.com/Kensington-K64.../dp/B0036RFNRO

On 08/12/2014 11:41 AM, DaveC wrote:
and then put metal loops on the cabinets

It's this part I'm pondering "how best"...

Thanks.


Perhaps products used to secure photocopiers/fax machines will do the job?

http://www.locdown.com/printercopier...lesecurity.htm

John :-#)#

--
(Please post followups or tech inquiries to the newsgroup)
John's Jukes Ltd. 2343 Main St., Vancouver, BC, Canada V5T 3C9
(604)872-5757 or Fax 872-2010 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games)
www.flippers.com
"Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."

DaveC wrote:
What's a straightforward method for attaching equipment to the bench so it
won't "walk" off? (This is my desire, so let's not discuss why or why not
please.)

I have 3/16 steel cable and ferrules for making lanyards. But how best to
attach the lanyard to, say, an HP 34401 bench DMM or Tek 2465? Not adverse to
drilling the case as long as there is strength to be had and can limit the
possibility of shorting.


Open the unit bottom, take a half-shell type pipe hanger, mark, drill
holes. Watch the debris and that the drill bit won't tear up anything.
Deburr carefully. Screw on with small short carriage bolts with the
threads towards the inside. Close unit and loop locking cable through there.

If concerned that they might take the lid off and undo the whole chebang
use hardware for highly non-standard wrenches or rivet in the
half-shell. They could still drill that out but if someone is this
determined they'd also cart away the whole lab bench, along with the
vending machine in the hallway and the ATM across the street.

Loops work as well but like hooks they only have a single fixation point
and thus can eventually twirl themselves loose.

As an added measure, if someone tugs on a unit and pulls the rope
taught, let a switch activate an MP3 player connected to a speaker that
plays this:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-1FvF69xV3k

Followed by the harmonica theme from "Once upon a Time in the West",
after which the thieves will probably come running out screaming :-)

--
Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/

DaveC wrote:

What's a straightforward method for attaching equipment to the bench so it
won't "walk" off? (This is my desire, so let's not discuss why or why not
please.)

I have 3/16 steel cable and ferrules for making lanyards. But how best to
attach the lanyard to, say, an HP 34401 bench DMM or Tek 2465? Not adverse to
drilling the case as long as there is strength to be had and can limit the
possibility of shorting.

Thanks.


A hinged, locking cover for the entire workbench along with two high
grade locks, one for each front corner.


--
Anyone wanting to run for any political office in the US should have to
have a DD214, and a honorable discharge.

Hi Michael,

On 8/15/2014 2:13 PM, Michael A. Terrell wrote:

What's a straightforward method for attaching equipment to the bench so it
won't "walk" off? (This is my desire, so let's not discuss why or why not
please.)

A hinged, locking cover for the entire workbench along with two high
grade locks, one for each front corner.

ROTFLMFAO! Yes! Build a giant GLOVE BOX!!! ;-)

On Fri, 15 Aug 2014 14:48:45 -0700, Don Y wrote:

Hi Michael,

On 8/15/2014 2:13 PM, Michael A. Terrell wrote:

What's a straightforward method for attaching equipment to the bench so it
won't "walk" off? (This is my desire, so let's not discuss why or why not
please.)

A hinged, locking cover for the entire workbench along with two high
grade locks, one for each front corner.

ROTFLMFAO! Yes! Build a giant GLOVE BOX!!! ;-)

How about a better grade of employee. Perhaps only hire those that
don't need to steal to support their drug habit.

wrote:

On Fri, 15 Aug 2014 14:48:45 -0700, Don Y wrote:

Hi Michael,

On 8/15/2014 2:13 PM, Michael A. Terrell wrote:

What's a straightforward method for attaching equipment to the bench so it
won't "walk" off? (This is my desire, so let's not discuss why or why not
please.)

A hinged, locking cover for the entire workbench along with two high
grade locks, one for each front corner.

ROTFLMFAO! Yes! Build a giant GLOVE BOX!!! ;-)

How about a better grade of employee. Perhaps only hire those that
don't need to steal to support their drug habit.


It was the @#$%^&*( engineers who used to raid production floor work
benches, instead of taking the equipment assigned to them when they had
to go into the field. It backfired once, when they swiped my 300 MHz Tek
2465. I got the new 400 MHz Tek 2465B they were supposed to get. They
demanded that I trade with them. I told them I would break the fingers
of anyone who took it. It was still on my bench
when I left, a few years later.

--
Anyone wanting to run for any political office in the US should have to
have a DD214, and a honorable discharge.

On Fri, 15 Aug 2014 21:17:58 -0400, "Michael A. Terrell"
wrote:


wrote:

On Fri, 15 Aug 2014 14:48:45 -0700, Don Y wrote:

Hi Michael,

On 8/15/2014 2:13 PM, Michael A. Terrell wrote:

What's a straightforward method for attaching equipment to the bench so it
won't "walk" off? (This is my desire, so let's not discuss why or why not
please.)

A hinged, locking cover for the entire workbench along with two high
grade locks, one for each front corner.

ROTFLMFAO! Yes! Build a giant GLOVE BOX!!! ;-)

How about a better grade of employee. Perhaps only hire those that
don't need to steal to support their drug habit.


It was the @#$%^&*( engineers who used to raid production floor work
benches, instead of taking the equipment assigned to them when they had
to go into the field. It backfired once, when they swiped my 300 MHz Tek
2465. I got the new 400 MHz Tek 2465B they were supposed to get. They
demanded that I trade with them. I told them I would break the fingers
of anyone who took it. It was still on my bench
when I left, a few years later.

There are less draconian means than a safe to keep "honest" people
honest. The Kensington locks work. OTOH, since it's a company
resource, I can't tell others not to use the equipment on my bench.
Tools I try to lock up since they just get scattered to the wind.
Anything else can be taken, though I would prefer to be asked first.

How about a better grade of employee. Perhaps only hire those that
don't need to steal to support their drug habit.

This is my business workbench/equipment in my home. Some homes have been
burglarized recently: smash a door glass, open the door, march the proceeds
out to the driveway (where a van has been waiting with rear doors right up
against the house) and load up everything.

Hi Dave,

On 8/17/2014 8:56 PM, DaveC wrote:
How about a better grade of employee. Perhaps only hire those that
don't need to steal to support their drug habit.

This is my business workbench/equipment in my home. Some homes have been
burglarized recently: smash a door glass, open the door, march the proceeds
out to the driveway (where a van has been waiting with rear doors right up
against the house) and load up everything.

Wouldn't they also take the *bench*? (as has happened here, recently,
with homes being "cleaned out").

Perhaps a wiser approach might be to affix a sticker to each piece
of kit offering a reward for its return! Then, if it ends up in a
pawn shop, etc. SOMEONE has an incentive to contact you.

Often, just having contact information on the item can result in
a friendly call...

OTOH, if they feel inclined to take your OBVIOUSLY VALUABLE (why else
would it be so effectively SECURED?) equipment, it is unlikely that
they will take extra precautions to *protect* it as they try to
remove it (they probably wouldn't know HOW to "be careful" with it).
So, any recovery would likely be of DAMAGED kit!

On Sun, 17 Aug 2014 20:56:19 -0700, DaveC wrote:

How about a better grade of employee. Perhaps only hire those that
don't need to steal to support their drug habit.

This is my business workbench/equipment in my home. Some homes have been
burglarized recently: smash a door glass, open the door, march the proceeds
out to the driveway (where a van has been waiting with rear doors right up
against the house) and load up everything.

Move!

On 8/17/2014 11:56 PM, DaveC wrote:
How about a better grade of employee. Perhaps only hire those that
don't need to steal to support their drug habit.

This is my business workbench/equipment in my home. Some homes have been
burglarized recently: smash a door glass, open the door, march the proceeds
out to the driveway (where a van has been waiting with rear doors right up
against the house) and load up everything.

I have a second home that I used to lock up tight. I came down one
weekend to find it had been broken into. They smashed a window in the
garage door so they could reach the inside latch knob... only to find
they couldn't open the door anyway because it was on a door opener and
they weren't smart enough to reach up for the release handle. lol

But after breaking the glass they found a basement door I had forgotten
to lock. It was just kids who took the liquor and made a bit of a mess,
but didn't do any real damage. Now I just leave all the doors open and
no one has come in for the last 15 years.

The best prevention is just not having anything that would be stolen I
think. I might get a big TV at some point now that I have Internet.

--

Rick

Don Y wrote:

Hi Michael,

On 8/15/2014 2:13 PM, Michael A. Terrell wrote:

What's a straightforward method for attaching equipment to the bench so it
won't "walk" off? (This is my desire, so let's not discuss why or why not
please.)

A hinged, locking cover for the entire workbench along with two high
grade locks, one for each front corner.

ROTFLMFAO! Yes! Build a giant GLOVE BOX!!! ;-)


It has the added advantage of people not messing with anything you're
working on, when you have to leave. I've also seen a fully equipped
bench set up in a large, locking closet.


--
Anyone wanting to run for any political office in the US should have to
have a DD214, and a honorable discharge.

Get a recent copy of "Guns And Ammo" magazine and a pair of about size twelve boots. Put the boots on the magazine just outside the door and make a sign that says "Went to go pick up some ammo, back in a few. Don't mess with the pitbulls, they just been wormed".

Maybe not all that helpful but may be. Some things are p[riceless when it comes to this ****. SCARE THEM. That's right, if they geet the idea they will get caught they will pass you be and pick on the next guy.

Know what that means ? Let's put it thins way, a locked door is an invitation. If it is unlocked and someone tried it, they will figure someone is there. They DO NOT want a confrontation, even the ****ing stoooopidest of them don't want that. they could kil or leave witnesses and few of them are ruthles enough to kill. they are not all that bad, they are most likely addicted to sometning. That makes them somewhat ruthless, but they know, in heaven there is no beer. In jail there is no meth.

Too this day I rarely lonck my door. Know why ? First of all there is little chance of people going around checking for unlocked doors and then robbing the place. The LOCKED door tells them you are not home.

If they are running around doing that, and especially maybe know that you do work at the house, that is a predicament I would rather not have really.

but the bottom line here, no matter what other methodsa you apply, do whatever you can to make it difficult to tell when you are there. I know people who turn on the TV when they LEAVE, not when they get home. for just that reason. They, like me, have known alot of thieves. We just have known alot of people so that's how it is. Plus we were bigtime partiers and ****. As a result, even though I was never much of a thief, I understand the mindset.

Another thing is those who are successaful at it (the ones not in ail) have a timeclock in their mind. Every minute they spend in that place greatly increases the risk of getting caught. Any bunch of things could happen.

Bubba could show up. You could get back from the gunstore. you could be sleeping and forgot to lock the door and be a karate expert. Every second count and that's why just slowing them down is so important.

If they want what you got bad enough noting will stop them. They will show up with an acetylene torch and ****. Whatevr it takes. Do not underestimate their balls or their intelligence. And they ain't dumb. Some NEVER get caught.