2 different makes of set-top box mutually affected on some controls between
each controller.
Extending the IR LED out by 2x 20 foot wires and fitted over the Rx of its
associated box - would that work? going back to the days of wired r/c.
Any other ideas - eg differently angled matt black shrouds of each Rx

On 06/06/2011 08:43, N_Cook wrote:
2 different makes of set-top box mutually affected on some controls between
each controller.
Extending the IR LED out by 2x 20 foot wires and fitted over the Rx of its
associated box - would that work?

Try Fibre Optics?

--
Adrian C

Why not just put the boxes at a substantial distance from each other? This
should prevent them from seeing the "wrong" control.

I wish you would learn how to write a simple declarative sentence. Is this
too much to ask? I'm tired of having to struggle through your posts.

William Sommerwerck wrote:
Why not just put the boxes at a substantial distance from each other?
This should prevent them from seeing the "wrong" control.

I wish you would learn how to write a simple declarative sentence. Is
this too much to ask? I'm tired of having to struggle through your
posts.

OMG!! How quaint an idea!
I've just about given up on trying to decipher his posts. Most of the time,
I have to wait on someone to post a reply to get the gist of his "question".

--
David
dgminala at mediacombb dot net

On Jun 6, 2:43*am, "N_Cook" wrote:
2 different makes of set-top box mutually affected on some controls between
each controller.
Extending the IR LED out by 2x 20 foot wires and fitted over the Rx of its
associated box - would that work? going back to the days of wired r/c.
Any other ideas - eg differently angled matt black shrouds of each Rx

horizontal and vertical polarization for the transmitters and the
receivers???? For Infrared - I don't know if it would work, but it is
an idea.

On Mon, 6 Jun 2011 08:43:27 +0100, "N_Cook" wrote:

2 different makes of set-top box mutually affected on some controls between
each controller.

Any particular maker and model of set-top box? Cable? Satellite? IP
Video? Game machine? Most of these have provisions for multiple such
things in the form of settings for "remote 1" and "remote 2". At
least my DirecTV and Comcast supplied boxes do that.

Extending the IR LED out by 2x 20 foot wires and fitted over the Rx of its
associated box - would that work? going back to the days of wired r/c.
Any other ideas - eg differently angled matt black shrouds of each Rx

Sigh. Yeah, that would work, but it's messy, ugly and not very
wireless.

If your remote controls have a single IR LED for an emitter, just
replace it with a 940 nm IR LED that has a very narrow beam, or one
that is lens focused. If the boxes are sufficiently seperated, there
should be no interaction. You could also move closer to the boxes,
but that's too easy.
http://www.physicsforums.com/showthread.php?t=239611
Some red LED's also belch enough nera IR to activate a remote
receiver, especially when focused.

Of course, if all you want to do is channel surf, then there are
dedicated remote controls that should suffice:
http://www.giftmonger.com/acatalog/Sharp_Shootin__TV_Channel_Changer_Gun.html
http://www.cutebitz.com/ray_gun_channel_changer.htm



--
# Jeff Liebermann 150 Felker St #D Santa Cruz CA 95060
# 831-336-2558
# http://802.11junk.com
# http://www.LearnByDestroying.com AE6KS

Jeff Liebermann wrote in message
...
On Mon, 6 Jun 2011 08:43:27 +0100, "N_Cook" wrote:

2 different makes of set-top box mutually affected on some controls
between
each controller.

Any particular maker and model of set-top box? Cable? Satellite? IP
Video? Game machine? Most of these have provisions for multiple such
things in the form of settings for "remote 1" and "remote 2". At
least my DirecTV and Comcast supplied boxes do that.

Extending the IR LED out by 2x 20 foot wires and fitted over the Rx of
its
associated box - would that work? going back to the days of wired r/c.
Any other ideas - eg differently angled matt black shrouds of each Rx

Sigh. Yeah, that would work, but it's messy, ugly and not very
wireless.

If your remote controls have a single IR LED for an emitter, just
replace it with a 940 nm IR LED that has a very narrow beam, or one
that is lens focused. If the boxes are sufficiently seperated, there
should be no interaction. You could also move closer to the boxes,
but that's too easy.
http://www.physicsforums.com/showthread.php?t=239611
Some red LED's also belch enough nera IR to activate a remote
receiver, especially when focused.

Of course, if all you want to do is channel surf, then there are
dedicated remote controls that should suffice:

http://www.giftmonger.com/acatalog/S...Changer_Gun.ht
ml
http://www.cutebitz.com/ray_gun_channel_changer.htm



--
# Jeff Liebermann 150 Felker St #D Santa Cruz CA 95060
# 831-336-2558
# http://802.11junk.com
# http://www.LearnByDestroying.com AE6KS


One advantage of wired remotes is they do not get lost down the sofa or end
up in another room, you can always follow the wire. As long as there is a
non-trip-over route for the wire.
Then I suppose increasing the dropper R for the LED rather than insulation
tape IR attenuator then rare battery replacement required.

The simplest and cheapest way to do this is simply to separate the boxes --
one to the far left, the other to the far right. (Cables aren't exactly
expensive.) This should provide sufficient isolation. If not, you can put
cardboad hoods around the sensors.

Why make something complicated that doesn't need to be complicated?

Cost: longer cables Difficulty: very, very low

On Tue, 7 Jun 2011 08:28:32 +0100, "N_Cook" wrote:

One advantage of wired remotes is they do not get lost down the sofa or end
up in another room, you can always follow the wire. As long as there is a
non-trip-over route for the wire.
Then I suppose increasing the dropper R for the LED rather than insulation
tape IR attenuator then rare battery replacement required.

You're welcome. Thank you for ignoring everything I wrote and not
bothering to supply the maker and model numbers. I thought you had a
genuine problem that you were trying to solve. Apparently not.

In the future, it would be helpful if you would supply:
1. What problem are you trying to solve?
2. What devices, equipment and software do you have to work with?
3. What have you done so far and what happened?

--
Jeff Liebermann
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

On Jun 7, 11:05*am, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
On Tue, 7 Jun 2011 08:28:32 +0100, "N_Cook" wrote:
One advantage of wired remotes is they do not get lost down the sofa or end
up in another room, you can always follow the wire. As long as there is a
non-trip-over route for the wire.
Then I suppose increasing the dropper R for the LED rather than insulation
tape IR attenuator then rare battery replacement required.

You're welcome. *Thank you for ignoring everything I wrote and not
bothering to supply the maker and model numbers. *I thought you had a
genuine problem that you were trying to solve. *Apparently not.

In the future, it would be helpful if you would supply:
1. *What problem are you trying to solve?
2. *What devices, equipment and software do you have to work with?
3. *What have you done so far and what happened?

--
Jeff Liebermann * *
150 Felker St #D * *http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann * * AE6KS * *831-336-2558

I think that I understand somewhat of the question. I have a similar
situation I think. I have two VCR's one on top of the other. I
sometimes will tape one channel while watching another. At times I'll
forget and stop the movie I'm watching. This of course stops and
subsequently ruins the recording I'm trying to make as well. These two
machines are in a tight cabinet and cannot be moved. It would be nice
if somehow the signals could be "coded" so that I could make the
machine doing the recording ignore the remote commands from the
transmitter if I want it to. Lenny

On Wed, 8 Jun 2011 05:22:20 -0700 (PDT), klem kedidelhopper
wrote:

I think that I understand somewhat of the question. I have a similar
situation I think. I have two VCR's one on top of the other. I
sometimes will tape one channel while watching another. At times I'll
forget and stop the movie I'm watching. This of course stops and
subsequently ruins the recording I'm trying to make as well. These two
machines are in a tight cabinet and cannot be moved. It would be nice
if somehow the signals could be "coded" so that I could make the
machine doing the recording ignore the remote commands from the
transmitter if I want it to. Lenny

Just put a tag of black vinyl tape over the sensor window on the deck
that's recording.

--
Rich Webb Norfolk, VA

On 6/8/2011 8:22 AM, Rich Webb wrote:
Just put a tag of black vinyl tape over the sensor window on the deck
that's recording.

Available at http://www.blinking vcrs.com

Jeff


--
"Everything from Crackers to Coffins"

On Jun 8, 9:41*am, Jeffrey Angus wrote:
On 6/8/2011 8:22 AM, Rich Webb wrote:

Just put a tag of black vinyl tape over the sensor window on the deck
that's recording.

Available athttp://www.blinkingvcrs.com

Jeff

--
"Everything from Crackers to Coffins"

I know that the tape would work. I was looking for a more technical
approach. Lenny

Sony had three VCR codes, so that Beta, VHS, and 8mm machines could be used
without mutual interference. Of course, you could operate machines of the
same format on different codes.

Check to see whether your VCRs offer multiple codes.

"klem kedidelhopper" wrote in message
...

I have a similar situation, I think. I have two VCRs, one on
top of the other. ... These machines are in a tight cabinet
and cannot be moved.

Non-sequitur. The only thing preventing one from being moved is longer
cables.

On Wed, 8 Jun 2011 05:22:20 -0700 (PDT), klem kedidelhopper
wrote:

On Jun 7, 11:05*am, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
In the future, it would be helpful if you would supply:
1. *What problem are you trying to solve?
2. *What devices, equipment and software do you have to work with?
3. *What have you done so far and what happened?

I think that I understand somewhat of the question.

Perhaps somewhat of an answer will suffice.

I think. I have two VCR's one on top of the other.

See item #2 above. If I knew the maker and model, I could find the
user manual, read where it talks about having more than one VCR (a
common problem), and setting the remote to device 1 and 2. Of course,
you could also do that yourself.

I
sometimes will tape one channel while watching another.

Tape? Whazzat? This is the age of DVR, where recordings are made to
a hard disk and maybe archived to a DVD or Blew-Ray disk.

At times I'll
forget and stop the movie I'm watching. This of course stops and
subsequently ruins the recording I'm trying to make as well. These two
machines are in a tight cabinet and cannot be moved. It would be nice
if somehow the signals could be "coded" so that I could make the
machine doing the recording ignore the remote commands from the
transmitter if I want it to. Lenny

Put something in front of the IR detector on the recording VCR as
others have suggested. If your unspecified model VCR happens to offer
both IR and RF control, it may be possible to have one VCR run by IR,
while the other by RF. Also, some VCR's offer RS422 wired remote
control. There are RS422 controllers available.

--
Jeff Liebermann
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558