I am attempting to fix my Mother-in-law's touch-on/touch-off lamp, which
appears to have a faulty BT136-600E triac in it. The sub for this is the
NTE56041, but that part doesn't turn on the lights when I install it and
touch the metal body of the lamp. The original part at least tried to turn
the lights on when the metal body of the lamp was touched, but failed to do
so completely (they flickered while the lamp was being held in the hands).
Examining the PC board into which the triac is mounted, the leftmost
terminal is ground, the middle is hot, and the rightmost would appear to be
the gate, but has no voltage on it when the lamp is plugged in and held for
examination. Actually, it has .004 VAC on it, but 0.00 VDC, with the triac
removed from the circuit. And when the triac is inserted into the circuit,
and the lamp held for examination this same voltage (.004 VAC) is present in
the light sockets. It seems as if the triac is trying to turn the lights
on, but not quite making it. I am therefore wondering if I should
(effectively) reverse the connections going to MT1 and MT2, making them no
longer GND and HOT (respectively) but making MT1 HOT and MT2 GND. Could it
be that this light (and circuit board with it's triac) which was made in
Taiwan, has these leads backwards from what the NTE56041 is expecting? I
hesitate to make this change without a great deal of thought, as I suspect,
if I am wrong, it might make the body of the lamp HOT to the touch.
Thoughts and considerations are sought, and more than welcome. I am not
sure what to do.

Thanks,

Dave

On May 20, 2:15*pm, "Dave" wrote:
I am attempting to fix my Mother-in-law's touch-on/touch-off lamp, which
appears to have a faulty BT136-600E triac in it. *The sub for this is the
NTE56041, but that part doesn't turn on the lights when I install it and
touch the metal body of the lamp. *The original part at least tried to turn
the lights on when the metal body of the lamp was touched, but failed to do
so completely (they flickered while the lamp was being held in the hands)..
Examining the PC board into which the triac is mounted, the leftmost
terminal is ground, the middle is hot, and the rightmost would appear to be
the gate, but has no voltage on it when the lamp is plugged in and held for
examination. *Actually, it has .004 VAC on it, but 0.00 VDC, with the triac
removed from the circuit. And when the triac is inserted into the circuit,
and the lamp held for examination this same voltage (.004 VAC) is present in
the light sockets. *It seems as if the triac is trying to turn the lights
on, but not quite making it. *I am therefore wondering if I should
(effectively) reverse the connections going to MT1 and MT2, making them no
longer GND and HOT (respectively) but making MT1 HOT and MT2 GND. *Could it
be that this light (and circuit board with it's triac) which was made in
Taiwan, has these leads backwards from what the NTE56041 is expecting? *I
hesitate to make this change without a great deal of thought, as I suspect,
if I am wrong, it might make the body of the lamp HOT to the touch.
Thoughts and considerations are sought, and more than welcome. *I am not
sure what to do.

Thanks,

Dave

I just bought the cheapest touch-lamp I could find and used it for the
parts to replace all the electronics, must faster and easier.

On May 22, 3:19*pm, "hr(bob) "
wrote:
On May 20, 2:15*pm, "Dave" wrote:





I am attempting to fix my Mother-in-law's touch-on/touch-off lamp, which
appears to have a faulty BT136-600E triac in it. *The sub for this is the
NTE56041, but that part doesn't turn on the lights when I install it and
touch the metal body of the lamp. *The original part at least tried to turn
the lights on when the metal body of the lamp was touched, but failed to do
so completely (they flickered while the lamp was being held in the hands).
Examining the PC board into which the triac is mounted, the leftmost
terminal is ground, the middle is hot, and the rightmost would appear to be
the gate, but has no voltage on it when the lamp is plugged in and held for
examination. *Actually, it has .004 VAC on it, but 0.00 VDC, with the triac
removed from the circuit. And when the triac is inserted into the circuit,
and the lamp held for examination this same voltage (.004 VAC) is present in
the light sockets. *It seems as if the triac is trying to turn the lights
on, but not quite making it. *I am therefore wondering if I should
(effectively) reverse the connections going to MT1 and MT2, making them no
longer GND and HOT (respectively) but making MT1 HOT and MT2 GND. *Could it
be that this light (and circuit board with it's triac) which was made in
Taiwan, has these leads backwards from what the NTE56041 is expecting? *I
hesitate to make this change without a great deal of thought, as I suspect,
if I am wrong, it might make the body of the lamp HOT to the touch.
Thoughts and considerations are sought, and more than welcome. *I am not
sure what to do.

Thanks,

Dave

I just bought the cheapest touch-lamp I could find and used it for the
parts to replace all the electronics, must faster and easier.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

You can also buy the complete touch assembly in the electrical section
of some hardware stores, our local Menards, in the Chicago area, has
them.

"hr(bob) " wrote in message
...
On May 22, 3:19 pm, "hr(bob) "
wrote:
On May 20, 2:15 pm, "Dave" wrote:





I am attempting to fix my Mother-in-law's touch-on/touch-off lamp, which
appears to have a faulty BT136-600E triac in it. The sub for this is the
NTE56041, but that part doesn't turn on the lights when I install it and
touch the metal body of the lamp. The original part at least tried to
turn
the lights on when the metal body of the lamp was touched, but failed to
do
so completely (they flickered while the lamp was being held in the
hands).
Examining the PC board into which the triac is mounted, the leftmost
terminal is ground, the middle is hot, and the rightmost would appear to
be
the gate, but has no voltage on it when the lamp is plugged in and held
for
examination. Actually, it has .004 VAC on it, but 0.00 VDC, with the
triac
removed from the circuit. And when the triac is inserted into the
circuit,
and the lamp held for examination this same voltage (.004 VAC) is
present in
the light sockets. It seems as if the triac is trying to turn the lights
on, but not quite making it. I am therefore wondering if I should
(effectively) reverse the connections going to MT1 and MT2, making them
no
longer GND and HOT (respectively) but making MT1 HOT and MT2 GND. Could
it
be that this light (and circuit board with it's triac) which was made in
Taiwan, has these leads backwards from what the NTE56041 is expecting? I
hesitate to make this change without a great deal of thought, as I
suspect,
if I am wrong, it might make the body of the lamp HOT to the touch.
Thoughts and considerations are sought, and more than welcome. I am not
sure what to do.

Thanks,

Dave

I just bought the cheapest touch-lamp I could find and used it for the
parts to replace all the electronics, must faster and easier.- Hide quoted
text -

- Show quoted text -

You can also buy the complete touch assembly in the electrical section
of some hardware stores, our local Menards, in the Chicago area, has
them.

Hmmm. Will have to check that out. Have come to the conclusion that the
part I put in is still good, it just doesn't come on like it should. Why?
That's the question...

Thanks,

Dave