Electronics Repair (sci.electronics.repair) Discussion of repairing electronic equipment. Topics include requests for assistance, where to obtain servicing information and parts, techniques for diagnosis and repair, and annecdotes about success, failures and problems.

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
  #1   Report Post  
Posted to sci.electronics.repair
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 3,469
Default Update: 3.3V vs. 3V dilemma

To bring this little saga to a close, I built a little AC adapter for my
Fuji Finepix digicam: brought in 5 volts from a little Samsung wall
wart, put the regulator and an electrolytic cap in a film can on a
little piece of perfboard, and brought the power out to a 2.5mm power
mini jack.

The long and short of it is, the camera doesn't work on this supply. It
puts out 3.25 volts alright, even when plugged into the camera, but the
camera just sits there and does nothing. My suspicion is that the power
jack is just not quite the right size to make contact (or else there's
something screwed up inside the camera that makes it not accept external
power, which seems unlikely).

So I'll probably bite the bullet and shell out a little $ to buy the AC
adapter made for this camera (found one on the internets for about $12).

The camera itself (bought for $1 at Oakland's White Elephant sale) works
like a charm; just got the USB cable for it today ($4.75).


--
You were wrong, and I'm man enough to admit it.

- a Usenet "apology"
  #2   Report Post  
Posted to sci.electronics.repair
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 635
Default Update: 3.3V vs. 3V dilemma

On 3/12/2010 12:38 AM, David Nebenzahl wrote:
To bring this little saga to a close, I built a little AC adapter for my
Fuji Finepix digicam: brought in 5 volts from a little Samsung wall
wart, put the regulator and an electrolytic cap in a film can on a
little piece of perfboard, and brought the power out to a 2.5mm power
mini jack.

The long and short of it is, the camera doesn't work on this supply. It
puts out 3.25 volts alright, even when plugged into the camera, but the
camera just sits there and does nothing. My suspicion is that the power
jack is just not quite the right size to make contact (or else there's
something screwed up inside the camera that makes it not accept external
power, which seems unlikely).

So I'll probably bite the bullet and shell out a little $ to buy the AC
adapter made for this camera (found one on the internets for about $12).

The camera itself (bought for $1 at Oakland's White Elephant sale) works
like a charm; just got the USB cable for it today ($4.75).



Try cramming a little bit of aluminum foil inside the plug. That'll
tell you if the diameter is the problem.

Cheers

Phil Hobbs

--
Dr Philip C D Hobbs
Principal
ElectroOptical Innovations
55 Orchard Rd
Briarcliff Manor NY 10510
845-480-2058
hobbs at electrooptical dot net
http://electrooptical.net
  #3   Report Post  
Posted to sci.electronics.repair
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 3,469
Default Update: 3.3V vs. 3V dilemma

On 3/12/2010 7:23 AM Phil Hobbs spake thus:

On 3/12/2010 12:38 AM, David Nebenzahl wrote:

To bring this little saga to a close, I built a little AC adapter for my
Fuji Finepix digicam: brought in 5 volts from a little Samsung wall
wart, put the regulator and an electrolytic cap in a film can on a
little piece of perfboard, and brought the power out to a 2.5mm power
mini jack.

The long and short of it is, the camera doesn't work on this supply. It
puts out 3.25 volts alright, even when plugged into the camera, but the
camera just sits there and does nothing. My suspicion is that the power
jack is just not quite the right size to make contact (or else there's
something screwed up inside the camera that makes it not accept external
power, which seems unlikely).


Try cramming a little bit of aluminum foil inside the plug. That'll
tell you if the diameter is the problem.


Mmmm, don't think so. I can see inside the sleeve in the camera that
there's a spring contact, and I can feel this being displaced when I
push in the jack*. I think the problem is with the center contact not
mating correctly.

*Hard to say whether this should be called a jack or a plug. The package
calls it a jack, even though it appears male and goes into a female hole
in the camera. Maybe it's a jug, or a plack.


-
You were wrong, and I'm man enough to admit it.

- a Usenet "apology"
  #4   Report Post  
Posted to sci.electronics.repair
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 3,833
Default Update: 3.3V vs. 3V dilemma

Hard to say whether this should be called a jack or a plug.
The package calls it a jack, even though it appears male
and goes into a female hole in the camera. Maybe it's a jug,
or a plack.


The usual term is "hermaphroditic connector". "Jug" suggests something
female. "Plack" is better, but it's a homonym of two other words.


  #5   Report Post  
Posted to sci.electronics.repair
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 635
Default Update: 3.3V vs. 3V dilemma

On 3/12/2010 1:39 PM, David Nebenzahl wrote:
On 3/12/2010 7:23 AM Phil Hobbs spake thus:

On 3/12/2010 12:38 AM, David Nebenzahl wrote:

To bring this little saga to a close, I built a little AC adapter for my
Fuji Finepix digicam: brought in 5 volts from a little Samsung wall
wart, put the regulator and an electrolytic cap in a film can on a
little piece of perfboard, and brought the power out to a 2.5mm power
mini jack.

The long and short of it is, the camera doesn't work on this supply. It
puts out 3.25 volts alright, even when plugged into the camera, but the
camera just sits there and does nothing. My suspicion is that the power
jack is just not quite the right size to make contact (or else there's
something screwed up inside the camera that makes it not accept external
power, which seems unlikely).


Try cramming a little bit of aluminum foil inside the plug. That'll
tell you if the diameter is the problem.


Mmmm, don't think so. I can see inside the sleeve in the camera that
there's a spring contact, and I can feel this being displaced when I
push in the jack*. I think the problem is with the center contact not
mating correctly.

*Hard to say whether this should be called a jack or a plug. The package
calls it a jack, even though it appears male and goes into a female hole
in the camera. Maybe it's a jug, or a plack.


-
You were wrong, and I'm man enough to admit it.

- a Usenet "apology"


Right, I mean inside the female contact (on the cord). Works great.

Cheers

Phil Hobbs

--
Dr Philip C D Hobbs
Principal
ElectroOptical Innovations
55 Orchard Rd
Briarcliff Manor NY 10510
845-480-2058
hobbs at electrooptical dot net
http://electrooptical.net


  #6   Report Post  
Posted to sci.electronics.repair
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 12,924
Default Update: 3.3V vs. 3V dilemma


David Nebenzahl wrote:

To bring this little saga to a close, I built a little AC adapter for my
Fuji Finepix digicam: brought in 5 volts from a little Samsung wall
wart, put the regulator and an electrolytic cap in a film can on a
little piece of perfboard, and brought the power out to a 2.5mm power
mini jack.

The long and short of it is, the camera doesn't work on this supply. It
puts out 3.25 volts alright, even when plugged into the camera, but the
camera just sits there and does nothing. My suspicion is that the power
jack is just not quite the right size to make contact (or else there's
something screwed up inside the camera that makes it not accept external
power, which seems unlikely).

So I'll probably bite the bullet and shell out a little $ to buy the AC
adapter made for this camera (found one on the internets for about $12).

The camera itself (bought for $1 at Oakland's White Elephant sale) works
like a charm; just got the USB cable for it today ($4.75).



What is the current rating of the AC adapter? Fuji recommends a 2
amp, 5 volt supply for my Fuji Finepix S5200 camera.


--
Lead free solder is Belgium's version of 'Hold my beer and watch this!'
  #7   Report Post  
Posted to sci.electronics.repair
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 3,469
Default Update: 3.3V vs. 3V dilemma

On 3/12/2010 10:57 PM Michael A. Terrell spake thus:

David Nebenzahl wrote:

To bring this little saga to a close, I built a little AC adapter for my
Fuji Finepix digicam: brought in 5 volts from a little Samsung wall
wart, put the regulator and an electrolytic cap in a film can on a
little piece of perfboard, and brought the power out to a 2.5mm power
mini jack.

The long and short of it is, the camera doesn't work on this supply. It
puts out 3.25 volts alright, even when plugged into the camera, but the
camera just sits there and does nothing. My suspicion is that the power
jack is just not quite the right size to make contact (or else there's
something screwed up inside the camera that makes it not accept external
power, which seems unlikely).

So I'll probably bite the bullet and shell out a little $ to buy the AC
adapter made for this camera (found one on the internets for about $12).

The camera itself (bought for $1 at Oakland's White Elephant sale) works
like a charm; just got the USB cable for it today ($4.75).



What is the current rating of the AC adapter? Fuji recommends a 2
amp, 5 volt supply for my Fuji Finepix S5200 camera.


Yeah, I've seen that too. But the camera says "3V 2.5W", which should be
fine with my 1 amp supply in theory. Besides, I see absolutely no
voltage sag on my VOM when I connect the camera and try to turn it on,
which seems to indicate no connection (if the supply were being
overloaded, I'd expect to see some sag).


--
You were wrong, and I'm man enough to admit it.

- a Usenet "apology"
  #8   Report Post  
Posted to sci.electronics.repair
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 12,924
Default Update: 3.3V vs. 3V dilemma


David Nebenzahl wrote:

Yeah, I've seen that too. But the camera says "3V 2.5W", which should be
fine with my 1 amp supply in theory.



What model number?


--
Lead free solder is Belgium's version of 'Hold my beer and watch this!'
  #9   Report Post  
Posted to sci.electronics.repair
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 12,924
Default Update: 3.3V vs. 3V dilemma


David Nebenzahl wrote:

On 3/12/2010 10:57 PM Michael A. Terrell spake thus:

David Nebenzahl wrote:

To bring this little saga to a close, I built a little AC adapter for my
Fuji Finepix digicam: brought in 5 volts from a little Samsung wall
wart, put the regulator and an electrolytic cap in a film can on a
little piece of perfboard, and brought the power out to a 2.5mm power
mini jack.

The long and short of it is, the camera doesn't work on this supply. It
puts out 3.25 volts alright, even when plugged into the camera, but the
camera just sits there and does nothing. My suspicion is that the power
jack is just not quite the right size to make contact (or else there's
something screwed up inside the camera that makes it not accept external
power, which seems unlikely).

So I'll probably bite the bullet and shell out a little $ to buy the AC
adapter made for this camera (found one on the internets for about $12).

The camera itself (bought for $1 at Oakland's White Elephant sale) works
like a charm; just got the USB cable for it today ($4.75).



What is the current rating of the AC adapter? Fuji recommends a 2
amp, 5 volt supply for my Fuji Finepix S5200 camera.


Yeah, I've seen that too. But the camera says "3V 2.5W", which should be
fine with my 1 amp supply in theory. Besides, I see absolutely no
voltage sag on my VOM when I connect the camera and try to turn it on,
which seems to indicate no connection (if the supply were being
overloaded, I'd expect to see some sag).



You may not see it without using a scope. A lot of regulation
problems don't show up with a meter, when you're right on the edge.


--
Lead free solder is Belgium's version of 'Hold my beer and watch this!'
  #10   Report Post  
Posted to sci.electronics.repair
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 1,569
Default Update: 3.3V vs. 3V dilemma

On Thu, 11 Mar 2010 21:38:02 -0800, David Nebenzahl
put finger to keyboard and composed:

To bring this little saga to a close, I built a little AC adapter for my
Fuji Finepix digicam: brought in 5 volts from a little Samsung wall
wart, put the regulator and an electrolytic cap in a film can on a
little piece of perfboard, and brought the power out to a 2.5mm power
mini jack.

The long and short of it is, the camera doesn't work on this supply. It
puts out 3.25 volts alright, even when plugged into the camera, but the
camera just sits there and does nothing. My suspicion is that the power
jack is just not quite the right size to make contact (or else there's
something screwed up inside the camera that makes it not accept external
power, which seems unlikely).


I had the same problem with a Kodak camera. However, I never bothered
to determine the cause, as I scored a cheap dock.

- Franc Zabkar
--
Please remove one 'i' from my address when replying by email.


  #11   Report Post  
Posted to sci.electronics.repair
isw isw is offline
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 320
Default Update: 3.3V vs. 3V dilemma

In article ,
David Nebenzahl wrote:

To bring this little saga to a close, I built a little AC adapter for my
Fuji Finepix digicam: brought in 5 volts from a little Samsung wall
wart, put the regulator and an electrolytic cap in a film can on a
little piece of perfboard, and brought the power out to a 2.5mm power
mini jack.

The long and short of it is, the camera doesn't work on this supply. It
puts out 3.25 volts alright, even when plugged into the camera, but the
camera just sits there and does nothing. My suspicion is that the power
jack is just not quite the right size to make contact (or else there's
something screwed up inside the camera that makes it not accept external
power, which seems unlikely).


What kind of regulator are you using? A lot of regulators will not
function properly with only 1.75 volts across them. It might be failing
only when the camera wants more then average current -- like when it's
trying to focus.

Isaac
  #12   Report Post  
Posted to sci.electronics.repair
isw isw is offline
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 320
Default Update: 3.3V vs. 3V dilemma

In article ,
David Nebenzahl wrote:

On 3/14/2010 9:01 PM isw spake thus:

In article ,
David Nebenzahl wrote:

To bring this little saga to a close, I built a little AC adapter for my
Fuji Finepix digicam: brought in 5 volts from a little Samsung wall
wart, put the regulator and an electrolytic cap in a film can on a
little piece of perfboard, and brought the power out to a 2.5mm power
mini jack.

The long and short of it is, the camera doesn't work on this supply. It
puts out 3.25 volts alright, even when plugged into the camera, but the
camera just sits there and does nothing. My suspicion is that the power
jack is just not quite the right size to make contact (or else there's
something screwed up inside the camera that makes it not accept external
power, which seems unlikely).


What kind of regulator are you using? A lot of regulators will not
function properly with only 1.75 volts across them. It might be failing
only when the camera wants more then average current -- like when it's
trying to focus.


It's an NTE 1904 (replacement for ECG1904). Similar to the LM78xx
series, I guess; just your standard 3-terminal positive regulator.


According to the data sheet, it's *not* similar to a LM78xx because it
does have a low differential requirement -- 0.45V.


Not sure what you mean by only 1.75 volts across; do you mean the
difference between input and output?


Yes. Some regulators (LM78xx for example), need more like 2.5V to work
properly.

In any case, I assume it's working
correctly, since I can see 3.xx volts at the output.


You do happen to be using a low-dropout device, but still, you have to
measure the voltage under maximum expected load, not open circuit, to
really see whether it'll work.

I tried it using a variable DC power supply; no better result. I'm
thinking there's something wrong with the camera.

(And by not working I mean the camera doesn't respond to the power
switch *at all*. No little beeps, no display, nothing.)


Does it work if you stick the proper batteries in it?

Isaac
  #13   Report Post  
Posted to sci.electronics.repair
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 29
Default Update: 3.3V vs. 3V dilemma

David Nebenzahl wrote:

It's an NTE 1904 (replacement for ECG1904). Similar to the LM78xx
series, I guess; just your standard 3-terminal positive regulator.

Not sure what you mean by only 1.75 volts across; do you mean the
difference between input and output? In any case, I assume it's working
correctly, since I can see 3.xx volts at the output.

I tried it using a variable DC power supply; no better result. I'm
thinking there's something wrong with the camera.

(And by not working I mean the camera doesn't respond to the power
switch *at all*. No little beeps, no display, nothing.)


Polarity on the jack, or maybe a blown picofuse?

--
Warren Block * Rapid City, South Dakota * USA
  #14   Report Post  
Posted to sci.electronics.repair
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 3,469
Default Update: 3.3V vs. 3V dilemma

On 3/14/2010 9:01 PM isw spake thus:

In article ,
David Nebenzahl wrote:

To bring this little saga to a close, I built a little AC adapter for my
Fuji Finepix digicam: brought in 5 volts from a little Samsung wall
wart, put the regulator and an electrolytic cap in a film can on a
little piece of perfboard, and brought the power out to a 2.5mm power
mini jack.

The long and short of it is, the camera doesn't work on this supply. It
puts out 3.25 volts alright, even when plugged into the camera, but the
camera just sits there and does nothing. My suspicion is that the power
jack is just not quite the right size to make contact (or else there's
something screwed up inside the camera that makes it not accept external
power, which seems unlikely).


What kind of regulator are you using? A lot of regulators will not
function properly with only 1.75 volts across them. It might be failing
only when the camera wants more then average current -- like when it's
trying to focus.


It's an NTE 1904 (replacement for ECG1904). Similar to the LM78xx
series, I guess; just your standard 3-terminal positive regulator.

Not sure what you mean by only 1.75 volts across; do you mean the
difference between input and output? In any case, I assume it's working
correctly, since I can see 3.xx volts at the output.

I tried it using a variable DC power supply; no better result. I'm
thinking there's something wrong with the camera.

(And by not working I mean the camera doesn't respond to the power
switch *at all*. No little beeps, no display, nothing.)


--
You were wrong, and I'm man enough to admit it.

- a Usenet "apology"
  #15   Report Post  
Posted to sci.electronics.repair
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 3,469
Default Update: 3.3V vs. 3V dilemma

On 3/15/2010 8:56 PM isw spake thus:

In article ,
David Nebenzahl wrote:

On 3/14/2010 9:01 PM isw spake thus:

In article ,
David Nebenzahl wrote:

To bring this little saga to a close, I built a little AC adapter for my
Fuji Finepix digicam: brought in 5 volts from a little Samsung wall
wart, put the regulator and an electrolytic cap in a film can on a
little piece of perfboard, and brought the power out to a 2.5mm power
mini jack.

The long and short of it is, the camera doesn't work on this supply. It
puts out 3.25 volts alright, even when plugged into the camera, but the
camera just sits there and does nothing. My suspicion is that the power
jack is just not quite the right size to make contact (or else there's
something screwed up inside the camera that makes it not accept external
power, which seems unlikely).

What kind of regulator are you using? A lot of regulators will not
function properly with only 1.75 volts across them. It might be failing
only when the camera wants more then average current -- like when it's
trying to focus.


It's an NTE 1904 (replacement for ECG1904). Similar to the LM78xx
series, I guess; just your standard 3-terminal positive regulator.


According to the data sheet, it's *not* similar to a LM78xx because it
does have a low differential requirement -- 0.45V.


Not sure what you mean by only 1.75 volts across; do you mean the
difference between input and output?


Yes. Some regulators (LM78xx for example), need more like 2.5V to work
properly.

In any case, I assume it's working
correctly, since I can see 3.xx volts at the output.


You do happen to be using a low-dropout device, but still, you have to
measure the voltage under maximum expected load, not open circuit, to
really see whether it'll work.

I tried it using a variable DC power supply; no better result. I'm
thinking there's something wrong with the camera.

(And by not working I mean the camera doesn't respond to the power
switch *at all*. No little beeps, no display, nothing.)


Does it work if you stick the proper batteries in it?


Yes, that's how I know the camera works. It just doesn't seem to be
connecting to external power, although it does act sorta flaky when the
batteries get low--but it does work (camera beeps, lens extends, display
comes alive). It also regularly "forgets" settings (in NOVRAM), like
date and time. But for $1 ...


--
You were wrong, and I'm man enough to admit it.

- a Usenet "apology"


  #16   Report Post  
Posted to sci.electronics.repair
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 3,469
Default Update: 3.3V vs. 3V dilemma

On 3/15/2010 9:12 PM Warren Block spake thus:

David Nebenzahl wrote:

It's an NTE 1904 (replacement for ECG1904). Similar to the LM78xx
series, I guess; just your standard 3-terminal positive regulator.

Not sure what you mean by only 1.75 volts across; do you mean the
difference between input and output? In any case, I assume it's working
correctly, since I can see 3.xx volts at the output.

I tried it using a variable DC power supply; no better result. I'm
thinking there's something wrong with the camera.

(And by not working I mean the camera doesn't respond to the power
switch *at all*. No little beeps, no display, nothing.)


Polarity on the jack, or maybe a blown picofuse?


Polarity is correct; there's a legend cast into the camera showing the
inner post is positive.

Picofuse inside the camera? Just discovered I'd need a special
screwdriver (with a 3-wing tip) to get inside the dang thing. I've got a
whole set of security screwdriver bits, but nothing that small.


--
You were wrong, and I'm man enough to admit it.

- a Usenet "apology"
  #17   Report Post  
Posted to sci.electronics.repair
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 2,001
Default Update: 3.3V vs. 3V dilemma

It's likely that you will need a 2A minimum PSU power supply to get this cam
to work reliably (switchmode PSU is likely much better than a small
transformer type).

I have a HP 215 PhotoSmart cam (bought new) that would barely work with 4
new AA alkaline batteries. The batteries weren't drained, the cam just
refused to turn on after only about 8 shots.
The manual recommended the new Energizer (silvery-looking) batteries that
were about $8-$10 for a 4-pack. The HP AC adapter was about $48, IIRC.

I bought an AC adapter (DigiPower, I think) which is labeled 6V 1.5A, and
it's a SMPS type. The cam worked fine with it, and since I wanted the cam
for eBay ad and webpage pics, using the wired PSU wasn't too bad (PSU came
wih a 10 or 12 ft cable on it).

I thought I'd just make an adapter to hold 4 C cells with a connector for
the exernal power connector on the cam, and the cam would give better
performance.

Cam wouldn't even turn on with 4 new C alkalines connected, and not with 4
Ds.. or 5 Ds.

The external batteries needed to be connected directly to the cam's internal
battery terminals, in a deep well in the cam body.
So I made an adapter from some round nylon stock to fit into the 2x2 AA
battery space, that had leads for the external batteries.
The cam would then work with 4 Cs or Ds, but not much better than 4 AAs.

The final solution was to use 4 AA 2000mAh NIMH cells inside the cam.
Perfect operation for a couple hundred shots per charge, all with the LCD
viewfinder turned on.

--
Cheers,
WB
..............



"David Nebenzahl" wrote in message
.com...
To bring this little saga to a close, I built a little AC adapter for my
Fuji Finepix digicam: brought in 5 volts from a little Samsung wall wart,
put the regulator and an electrolytic cap in a film can on a little piece
of perfboard, and brought the power out to a 2.5mm power mini jack.

The long and short of it is, the camera doesn't work on this supply. It
puts out 3.25 volts alright, even when plugged into the camera, but the
camera just sits there and does nothing. My suspicion is that the power
jack is just not quite the right size to make contact (or else there's
something screwed up inside the camera that makes it not accept external
power, which seems unlikely).

So I'll probably bite the bullet and shell out a little $ to buy the AC
adapter made for this camera (found one on the internets for about $12).

The camera itself (bought for $1 at Oakland's White Elephant sale) works
like a charm; just got the USB cable for it today ($4.75).


--
You were wrong, and I'm man enough to admit it.

- a Usenet "apology"


  #18   Report Post  
Posted to sci.electronics.repair
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 3,469
Default Update: 3.3V vs. 3V dilemma

On 3/16/2010 12:49 AM Wild_Bill spake thus:

I thought I'd just make an adapter to hold 4 C cells with a connector for
the exernal power connector on the cam, and the cam would give better
performance.


That occurred to me too.

Cam wouldn't even turn on with 4 new C alkalines connected, and not with 4
Ds.. or 5 Ds.


Wow; surprising. Wonder why that is? Same voltage, and should be plenty
of oomph.

The external batteries needed to be connected directly to the cam's internal
battery terminals, in a deep well in the cam body.
So I made an adapter from some round nylon stock to fit into the 2x2 AA
battery space, that had leads for the external batteries.
The cam would then work with 4 Cs or Ds, but not much better than 4 AAs.

The final solution was to use 4 AA 2000mAh NIMH cells inside the cam.
Perfect operation for a couple hundred shots per charge, all with the LCD
viewfinder turned on.


I'm thinking about NiMHs too; they're on the official diet for my
camera. Like you, I had planned on using this cam just around the house
for shots of stuff to sell on eBay, so I wouldn't have minded having
tethered power. I mainly want to avoid having to buy and throw out lots
of AA "batteries".


--
You were wrong, and I'm man enough to admit it.

- a Usenet "apology"
  #19   Report Post  
Posted to sci.electronics.repair
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 3,833
Default Update: 3.3V vs. 3V dilemma

The final solution was to use 4 AA 2000mAh NIMH cells
inside the cam. Perfect operation for a couple hundred shots
per charge, all with the LCD viewfinder turned on.


I'm thinking about NiMHs too; they're on the official diet for my
camera. Like you, I had planned on using this cam just around
the house for shots of stuff to sell on eBay, so I wouldn't have
minded having tethered power. I mainly want to avoid having to
buy and throw out lots of AA "batteries".


Did I not suggest -- a week ago -- that you use NiMH cells? They can be used
in other equipment.

----- The Lady from Philadelphia


Reply
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules

Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Electrical dilemma kev007 UK diy 43 August 28th 07 11:34 PM
A workholding dilemma Prometheus Woodturning 23 June 26th 07 09:27 AM
NTL TV Dilemma Paul Andrews UK diy 30 October 24th 06 02:29 AM
Damp Dilemma Ed_Zep UK diy 36 May 24th 06 07:46 PM
3-way dimmer dilemma HELP! WirelessNut Home Repair 10 February 22nd 06 12:31 PM


All times are GMT +1. The time now is 07:20 PM.

Powered by vBulletin® Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ©2004-2024 DIYbanter.
The comments are property of their posters.
 

About Us

"It's about DIY & home improvement"