Hi,

A 19" Sony from 1990 recently blew out. For the past year or so it has been
flickering a bit, usually clearing up when warmed (I also had a little success
by fiddling with the power cord, ie getting a better connection by readjusting
the connector).

The other day while it was on, it began to smell like something was burning, and
then the TV went off (I think there was a noise too). I cracked 'er open and
took a look. I found that one of the three cement, fusible power resistors had
literally blown. The ceramic housing was split down the middle of the length and
the wire-wound resistor was cracked in half. (Oh, and both of the fuses that I
could find were fine.)

As luck would have it, I happened to have an identical resistor that I salvaged
from the circuit board of another TV from a few years ago. Like the dead one, it
too was a 20W, 150 Ohm cement, so I replaced the dead resistor and hoped for the
best.

Unfortunately it was only slightly better. Before, the relay would click, but
nothing else would happen (no LED even). Now, when I plug it in and turn it on,
the relay clicks, and there is a brief startup hum (but nothing else), and then
it goes back to click-then-nothing at all (other than the new power resistor
heating up). If I wait a while each time before turning it on, then it will do
the brief hum after the relay click.

There is a 560uF, 200V capacitor nearby whose top is fairly bulged.
Unfortunately my DMM doesn't have a capacitance testing function, but I figure
my next move is to replace the cap.


Any ideas? Thanks.


--
Alec S.
news/alec-synetech/cjb/net

"Alec S." wrote in message ...
Hi,

A 19" Sony from 1990 recently blew out. For the past year or so it has
been
flickering a bit, usually clearing up when warmed (I also had a little
success
by fiddling with the power cord, ie getting a better connection by
readjusting
the connector).

The other day while it was on, it began to smell like something was
burning, and
then the TV went off (I think there was a noise too). I cracked 'er open
and
took a look. I found that one of the three cement, fusible power resistors
had
literally blown. The ceramic housing was split down the middle of the
length and
the wire-wound resistor was cracked in half. (Oh, and both of the fuses
that I
could find were fine.)

As luck would have it, I happened to have an identical resistor that I
salvaged
from the circuit board of another TV from a few years ago. Like the dead
one, it
too was a 20W, 150 Ohm cement, so I replaced the dead resistor and hoped
for the
best.

Unfortunately it was only slightly better. Before, the relay would click,
but
nothing else would happen (no LED even). Now, when I plug it in and turn
it on,
the relay clicks, and there is a brief startup hum (but nothing else), and
then
it goes back to click-then-nothing at all (other than the new power
resistor
heating up). If I wait a while each time before turning it on, then it
will do
the brief hum after the relay click.

There is a 560uF, 200V capacitor nearby whose top is fairly bulged.
Unfortunately my DMM doesn't have a capacitance testing function, but I
figure
my next move is to replace the cap.


Any ideas? Thanks.


--
Alec S.
news/alec-synetech/cjb/net




I don't hink the cap is your problem. A bulged or curved plastic cover on
the top of the cap is not a failure. If it's the metal can that has split at
the top (vented), fine.

We really need a model number to give you any more specific advice.

That said - the resistor you mention is not a typical Sony failure that I am
aware of.


Mark Z.

Mark Zacharias wrote (in ):
I don't hink the cap is your problem. A bulged or curved plastic cover on
the top of the cap is not a failure. If it's the metal can that has split at
the top (vented), fine.

I don’t think it has; when I press down on the plastic cover, it pops down
without much resistance.


We really need a model number to give you any more specific advice.

It’s a KV-20TS30.


That said - the resistor you mention is not a typical Sony failure that I am
aware of.


I suppose not, but I was running on some general tips like in
http://www.repairfaq.org/samnew/tvfaq/tvfrbtcpo.htm
and
http://www.e-repair.co.uk/tips.htm



Thanks.

--
Alec S.
news/alec-synetech/cjb/net

On Wed, 2 Sep 2009 23:58:07 -0400, "Alec S." wrote:

Hi,

A 19" Sony from 1990 recently blew out. For the past year or so it has been
flickering a bit, usually clearing up when warmed (I also had a little success
by fiddling with the power cord, ie getting a better connection by readjusting
the connector).

The other day while it was on, it began to smell like something was burning, and
then the TV went off (I think there was a noise too). I cracked 'er open and
took a look. I found that one of the three cement, fusible power resistors had
literally blown. The ceramic housing was split down the middle of the length and
the wire-wound resistor was cracked in half. (Oh, and both of the fuses that I
could find were fine.)

As luck would have it, I happened to have an identical resistor that I salvaged
from the circuit board of another TV from a few years ago. Like the dead one, it
too was a 20W, 150 Ohm cement, so I replaced the dead resistor and hoped for the
best.

Unfortunately it was only slightly better. Before, the relay would click, but
nothing else would happen (no LED even). Now, when I plug it in and turn it on,
the relay clicks, and there is a brief startup hum (but nothing else), and then
it goes back to click-then-nothing at all (other than the new power resistor
heating up). If I wait a while each time before turning it on, then it will do
the brief hum after the relay click.

There is a 560uF, 200V capacitor nearby whose top is fairly bulged.
Unfortunately my DMM doesn't have a capacitance testing function, but I figure
my next move is to replace the cap.


Any ideas? Thanks.

In the words of McCoy, Star Trek (TOS): "It's dead, Jim" comes to
mind.

It seems you do not know much about what you are doing, so I'd be
somewhat worried that you may kill yourself. Do be careful.

On Thu, 3 Sep 2009 04:39:23 -0500, "Mark Zacharias"
wrote:

"Alec S." wrote in message ...
Hi,

A 19" Sony from 1990 recently blew out. For the past year or so it has
been
flickering a bit, usually clearing up when warmed (I also had a little
success
by fiddling with the power cord, ie getting a better connection by
readjusting
the connector).

The other day while it was on, it began to smell like something was
burning, and
then the TV went off (I think there was a noise too). I cracked 'er open
and
took a look. I found that one of the three cement, fusible power resistors
had
literally blown. The ceramic housing was split down the middle of the
length and
the wire-wound resistor was cracked in half. (Oh, and both of the fuses
that I
could find were fine.)

As luck would have it, I happened to have an identical resistor that I
salvaged
from the circuit board of another TV from a few years ago. Like the dead
one, it
too was a 20W, 150 Ohm cement, so I replaced the dead resistor and hoped
for the
best.

Unfortunately it was only slightly better. Before, the relay would click,
but
nothing else would happen (no LED even). Now, when I plug it in and turn
it on,
the relay clicks, and there is a brief startup hum (but nothing else), and
then
it goes back to click-then-nothing at all (other than the new power
resistor
heating up). If I wait a while each time before turning it on, then it
will do
the brief hum after the relay click.

There is a 560uF, 200V capacitor nearby whose top is fairly bulged.
Unfortunately my DMM doesn't have a capacitance testing function, but I
figure
my next move is to replace the cap.


Any ideas? Thanks.


--
Alec S.
news/alec-synetech/cjb/net




I don't hink the cap is your problem. A bulged or curved plastic cover on
the top of the cap is not a failure.

It's not? Odd, virtually all caps I've run across with buldged cases
were failed.

If it's the metal can that has split at
the top (vented), fine.

And a split case (the extreme, or final stage) is not 'fine'. It is
dead.


We really need a model number to give you any more specific advice.

That said - the resistor you mention is not a typical Sony failure that I am
aware of.


Mark Z.

On 3 sep, 08:53, PeterD wrote:
On Thu, 3 Sep 2009 04:39:23 -0500, "Mark Zacharias"





wrote:
"Alec S." wrote in ....
Hi,

A 19" Sony from 1990 recently blew out. For the past year or so it has
been
flickering a bit, usually clearing up when warmed (I also had a little
success
by fiddling with the power cord, ie getting a better connection by
readjusting
the connector).

The other day while it was on, it began to smell like something was
burning, and
then the TV went off (I think there was a noise too). I cracked 'er open
and
took a look. I found that one of the three cement, fusible power resistors
had
literally blown. The ceramic housing was split down the middle of the
length and
the wire-wound resistor was cracked in half. (Oh, and both of the fuses
that I
could find were fine.)

As luck would have it, I happened to have an identical resistor that I
salvaged
from the circuit board of another TV from a few years ago. Like the dead
one, it
too was a 20W, 150 Ohm cement, so I replaced the dead resistor and hoped
for the
best.

Unfortunately it was only slightly better. Before, the relay would click,
but
nothing else would happen (no LED even). Now, when I plug it in and turn
it on,
the relay clicks, and there is a brief startup hum (but nothing else), and
then
it goes back to click-then-nothing at all (other than the new power
resistor
heating up). If I wait a while each time before turning it on, then it
will do
the brief hum after the relay click.

There is a 560uF, 200V capacitor nearby whose top is fairly bulged.
Unfortunately my DMM doesn't have a capacitance testing function, but I
figure
my next move is to replace the cap.

Any ideas? Thanks.

--
Alec S.
news/alec-synetech/cjb/net

I don't hink the cap is your problem. A bulged or curved plastic cover on
the top of the cap is not a failure.

It's not? Odd, virtually all caps I've run across with buldged cases
were failed.

If it's the metal can that has split at
the top (vented), fine.

And a split case (the extreme, or final stage) is not 'fine'. It is
dead.





We really need a model number to give you any more specific advice.

That said - the resistor you mention is not a typical Sony failure that I am
aware of.

Mark Z.- Ocultar texto de la cita -

- Mostrar texto de la cita -- Ocultar texto de la cita -

- Mostrar texto de la cita -

Normally speaking big electrolytic capacitors such as a 560uF, 200V
has a plastic disc on top of the aluminium cylinder and I
it´s quite frequent for that disc to become bulged, while underneath
the aluminium can is perfectly flat, thus one can´t say that the cap
is damaged just because that plastic disc became bulged. I don´t think
the cap is damaged, and the description of the TV failure points
toward something more serious: a damaged HOT, a shorted switching
transistor, etc.

On Sep 3, 8:51*am, PeterD wrote:
On Wed, 2 Sep 2009 23:58:07 -0400, "Alec S." wrote:
Hi,

A 19" Sony from 1990 recently blew out. For the past year or so it has been
flickering a bit, usually clearing up when warmed (I also had a little success
by fiddling with the power cord, ie getting a better connection by readjusting
the connector).

The other day while it was on, it began to smell like something was burning, and
then the TV went off (I think there was a noise too). I cracked 'er open and
took a look. I found that one of the three cement, fusible power resistors had
literally blown. The ceramic housing was split down the middle of the length and
the wire-wound resistor was cracked in half. (Oh, and both of the fuses that I
could find were fine.)

As luck would have it, I happened to have an identical resistor that I salvaged
from the circuit board of another TV from a few years ago. Like the dead one, it
too was a 20W, 150 Ohm cement, so I replaced the dead resistor and hoped for the
best.

Unfortunately it was only slightly better. Before, the relay would click, but
nothing else would happen (no LED even). Now, when I plug it in and turn it on,
the relay clicks, and there is a brief startup hum (but nothing else), and then
it goes back to click-then-nothing at all (other than the new power resistor
heating up). If I wait a while each time before turning it on, then it will do
the brief hum after the relay click.

There is a 560uF, 200V capacitor nearby whose top is fairly bulged.
Unfortunately my DMM doesn't have a capacitance testing function, but I figure
my next move is to replace the cap.

Any ideas? Thanks.

In the words of McCoy, Star Trek (TOS): "It's dead, Jim" comes to
mind.

It seems you do not know much about what you are doing, so I'd be
somewhat worried that you may kill yourself. Do be careful.

Oh, I am careful. I am quite aware of the remaining charge in a
display as well as how to discharge it (“shoving a grounded
screwdriver up under the anode cap” lol) should the need arise (which
it has not).

PeterD wrote in
:

On Thu, 3 Sep 2009 04:39:23 -0500, "Mark Zacharias"
wrote:

"Alec S." wrote in message
...
Hi,

A 19" Sony from 1990 recently blew out. For the past year or so it
has been
flickering a bit, usually clearing up when warmed (I also had a
little success
by fiddling with the power cord, ie getting a better connection by
readjusting
the connector).

The other day while it was on, it began to smell like something was
burning, and
then the TV went off (I think there was a noise too). I cracked 'er
open and
took a look. I found that one of the three cement, fusible power
resistors had
literally blown. The ceramic housing was split down the middle of
the length and
the wire-wound resistor was cracked in half. (Oh, and both of the
fuses that I
could find were fine.)

As luck would have it, I happened to have an identical resistor that
I salvaged
from the circuit board of another TV from a few years ago. Like the
dead one, it
too was a 20W, 150 Ohm cement, so I replaced the dead resistor and
hoped for the
best.

Unfortunately it was only slightly better. Before, the relay would
click, but
nothing else would happen (no LED even). Now, when I plug it in and
turn it on,
the relay clicks, and there is a brief startup hum (but nothing
else), and then
it goes back to click-then-nothing at all (other than the new power
resistor
heating up). If I wait a while each time before turning it on, then
it will do
the brief hum after the relay click.

There is a 560uF, 200V capacitor nearby whose top is fairly bulged.
Unfortunately my DMM doesn't have a capacitance testing function,
but I figure
my next move is to replace the cap.


Any ideas? Thanks.


--
Alec S.
news/alec-synetech/cjb/net




I don't hink the cap is your problem. A bulged or curved plastic cover
on the top of the cap is not a failure.

It's not? Odd, virtually all caps I've run across with buldged cases
were failed.

If it's the metal can that has split at
the top (vented), fine.

And a split case (the extreme, or final stage) is not 'fine'. It is
dead.


We really need a model number to give you any more specific advice.

That said - the resistor you mention is not a typical Sony failure
that I am aware of.


Mark Z.


if a electrolytic's ESR has climbed too much,it's a "failed cap",and if
it's bulging,it's failing.


And if it's discolored badly,it's certainly suspect.

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net

"PeterD" wrote in message
...
On Thu, 3 Sep 2009 04:39:23 -0500, "Mark Zacharias"
wrote:

"Alec S." wrote in message
...
Hi,

A 19" Sony from 1990 recently blew out. For the past year or so it has
been
flickering a bit, usually clearing up when warmed (I also had a little
success
by fiddling with the power cord, ie getting a better connection by
readjusting
the connector).

The other day while it was on, it began to smell like something was
burning, and
then the TV went off (I think there was a noise too). I cracked 'er open
and
took a look. I found that one of the three cement, fusible power
resistors
had
literally blown. The ceramic housing was split down the middle of the
length and
the wire-wound resistor was cracked in half. (Oh, and both of the fuses
that I
could find were fine.)

As luck would have it, I happened to have an identical resistor that I
salvaged
from the circuit board of another TV from a few years ago. Like the dead
one, it
too was a 20W, 150 Ohm cement, so I replaced the dead resistor and hoped
for the
best.

Unfortunately it was only slightly better. Before, the relay would
click,
but
nothing else would happen (no LED even). Now, when I plug it in and turn
it on,
the relay clicks, and there is a brief startup hum (but nothing else),
and
then
it goes back to click-then-nothing at all (other than the new power
resistor
heating up). If I wait a while each time before turning it on, then it
will do
the brief hum after the relay click.

There is a 560uF, 200V capacitor nearby whose top is fairly bulged.
Unfortunately my DMM doesn't have a capacitance testing function, but I
figure
my next move is to replace the cap.


Any ideas? Thanks.


--
Alec S.
news/alec-synetech/cjb/net




I don't hink the cap is your problem. A bulged or curved plastic cover on
the top of the cap is not a failure.

It's not? Odd, virtually all caps I've run across with buldged cases
were failed.

If it's the metal can that has split at
the top (vented), fine.

And a split case (the extreme, or final stage) is not 'fine'. It is
dead.


We really need a model number to give you any more specific advice.

That said - the resistor you mention is not a typical Sony failure that I
am
aware of.


Mark Z.


I was talking about a plastic disc which is often seen on the top of larger,
mostly older electrolytics. It is essentially an insulator to prevent one
from touching the metal can of the capacitor. Often they become contracted
or curved or even fall out altogether, but it has nothing to do with the
"bulging" (venting) often referred to on the internet and which we see in
newer, cheaper sets. Perhaps I should have been more clear.

When I said "fine" I was just in the mode of agreeing that the OP had a bad
cap if the top was in fact vented. Once again I should have been more clear.

I have never seen Sony's suffer from the bulging cap scenario in their
switch mode supplies, but of course it could happen. More often, if there is
a regulation problem, the set just shuts down. In a typical bulging cap
failure, a high ESR causes the regulation trouble, which runs the voltages
higher, which accelerates the failure, and the caps vent.


Mark Z.

Oh, I am careful. I am quite aware of the remaining charge in a
display as well as how to discharge it (“shoving a grounded
screwdriver up under the anode cap” lol) should the need arise (which
it has not).

Please don't be insulted, but anyone who describes a safety procedure as
"shoving a grounded screwdriver..." and adds "LOL" should just discard the
TV and purchase a new one.
If you are lucky enough to repair the TV without injuring yourself, the TV
may become a fire hazard if it is not repaired correctly.

Chances are the TV originally just had a bad solder joint. Moving the power
cord flexed the circuit board and opened and closed the bad contact making
the TV work intermittently. Now one or more components has opened or
shorted and you must hunt it down. You are not likely to SEE the bad
component. You must know which part of the circuit to test, and find and
replace the defective components to make the TV work!

Jumpster Jiver wrote (in ):

Oh, I am careful. I am quite aware of the remaining charge in a
display as well as how to discharge it (“shoving a grounded
screwdriver up under the anode cap” lol) should the need arise (which
it has not).

Please don't be insulted, but anyone who describes a safety procedure as
"shoving a grounded screwdriver..." and adds "LOL"…

That’s why it’s in quotes.


Chances are the TV originally just had a bad solder joint. Moving the power
cord flexed the circuit board and opened and closed the bad contact making
the TV work intermittently.

Actually, I meant that reseating the cord at the plug end was more of a way of
scraping of any patina that may have been on the prongs, thus impeding the flow
and so making a better contact with the outlet.


Now one or more components has opened or
shorted and you must hunt it down. You are not likely to SEE the bad
component. You must know which part of the circuit to test, and find and
replace the defective components to make the TV work!


Well if the flyback is the problem, then I won’t be bothering with it; I’ve got
too much else to do anyway. If it’s the HOT, then I may keep it around to look
at again some time in the future. If it’s something simpler like a cold joint or
blown cap or resistor or invisible fuse or something, then I would like to fix
it.



--
Alec S.
news/alec-synetech/cjb/net

On Sep 2, 11:58*pm, "Alec S." wrote:
Hi,

A 19" Sony from 1990 recently blew out. For the past year or so it has been
flickering a bit, usually clearing up when warmed (I also had a little success
by fiddling with the power cord, ie getting a better connection by readjusting
the connector).

The other day while it was on, it began to smell like something was burning, and
then the TV went off (I think there was a noise too). I cracked 'er open and
took a look. I found that one of the three cement, fusible power resistors had
literally blown. The ceramic housing was split down the middle of the length and
the wire-wound resistor was cracked in half. (Oh, and both of the fuses that I
could find were fine.)

As luck would have it, I happened to have an identical resistor that I salvaged
from the circuit board of another TV from a few years ago. Like the dead one, it
too was a 20W, 150 Ohm cement, so I replaced the dead resistor and hoped for the
best.

Unfortunately it was only slightly better. Before, the relay would click, but
nothing else would happen (no LED even). Now, when I plug it in and turn it on,
The problem with the TV is more than a simple capacitor. There could
be failures in both the main power supply and scan amplifier sections.
It would require proper troubleshooting and then replacement of the
defective parts. The solution is not something that could be guessed
at.

Considering the age of the set, you'd be better off replacing it with
a new one, than to invest money and time in to it. You could fix it,
and then a short time later it will fail again.


Jerry G.




the relay clicks, and there is a brief startup hum (but nothing else), and then
it goes back to click-then-nothing at all (other than the new power resistor
heating up). If I wait a while each time before turning it on, then it will do
the brief hum after the relay click.

There is a 560uF, 200V capacitor nearby whose top is fairly bulged.
Unfortunately my DMM doesn't have a capacitance testing function, but I figure
my next move is to replace the cap.

Any ideas? Thanks.

--
Alec S.
news/alec-synetech/cjb/net

In article , "Alec S." wrote:

Well if the flyback is the problem, then I won’t be bothering with it; I’ve
got
too much else to do anyway. If it’s the HOT, then I may keep it around to
look
at again some time in the future. If it’s something simpler like a cold joint
or
blown cap or resistor or invisible fuse or something, then I would like to
fix
it.

I had a TV that "blew out" on me once, and yep, it was the invisible
fuse that went bad. But, I couldn't see it, so I couldn't replace it.
BTW, throwing around fancy terms like "HOT" and "flyback" don't dress up
your resume none around this group, so to speak, in the vernacular, like.
Maybe you can fix your apostrophe key instead, so you don't have to
substitute commas.

On Sep 12, 1:04*am, Smitty Two wrote:
In article , "Alec S." wrote:
Well if the flyback is the problem, then I won’t be bothering with it; I’ve
got
too much else to do anyway. If it’s the HOT, then I may keep it around to
look
at again some time in the future. If it’s something simpler like a cold joint
or
blown cap or resistor or invisible fuse or something, then I would like to
fix
it.

I had a TV that "blew out" on me once, and yep, it was the invisible
fuse that went bad. But, I couldn't see it, so I couldn't replace it.
BTW, throwing around fancy terms like "HOT" and "flyback" don't dress up
your resume none around this group, so to speak, in the vernacular, like.
Maybe you can fix your apostrophe key instead, so you don't have to
substitute commas.

To be fair, those are legitimate problems with TVs and I can see
apostrophes rather than commas, maybe you should fix your client's
encoding to display Unicode. like?