I posted this set about two weeks ago for a convergence problem
question. The general consensus was that it seemed to be a pretty
routine job. Two STK392-560's, ( I got OEM Sanyo's), check bias
resistors, and all fuses, and I looked for anything else that didn't
look right.

All resistors in the parallel banks checked good. I found six 3.15A
fuses under the two heat sinks and one more 3.15A fuse located
elsewhere on the board. All seven fuses were good and nothing else
seemed to be obvious.

I powered the set up and did the "focus" procedure from the front
panel. The set goes through the procedure but will not converge. The
set was on for about 5 minutes when I touched the two heat sinks that
the 560's are mounted on. I noticed that they were cold. I couldn't
easily get to the fuses under the heat sinks but I did get a voltmeter
on the lone 3.15A fuse located elsewhere on the board. I used one of
the 560 heatsinks as ground. (I hope that was the proper ground for
the 560's supply. I assusme it was.).My meter read 1.70VDC, (Both
sides of the fuse just to be sure).

I have no schematic, so I don't know what the voltage should be off
that fuse but this seems really low. I also am not completely certain
if I used the correct ground.

Another problem I had was trying to remove the flyback HV wire from
the splitter. The focus wire came out of the focus block no problem
but I wound up cutting the HV wire 3 inches from the flyback. I'm sure
I can fix it with RTV when the time comes. but thats a minor issue. I
now have the board in the shop, if any one has any ideas.

What should have been an easy afternoon turned into a bad day. Can any
Sony guys please help me with troubleshooting this dog further? Thanks
really for ant assistance , Lenny.. . .

wrote in message
...
I posted this set about two weeks ago for a convergence problem
question. The general consensus was that it seemed to be a pretty
routine job. Two STK392-560's, ( I got OEM Sanyo's), check bias
resistors, and all fuses, and I looked for anything else that didn't
look right.

All resistors in the parallel banks checked good. I found six 3.15A
fuses under the two heat sinks and one more 3.15A fuse located
elsewhere on the board. All seven fuses were good and nothing else
seemed to be obvious.

I powered the set up and did the "focus" procedure from the front
panel. The set goes through the procedure but will not converge. The
set was on for about 5 minutes when I touched the two heat sinks that
the 560's are mounted on. I noticed that they were cold. I couldn't
easily get to the fuses under the heat sinks but I did get a voltmeter
on the lone 3.15A fuse located elsewhere on the board. I used one of
the 560 heatsinks as ground. (I hope that was the proper ground for
the 560's supply. I assusme it was.).My meter read 1.70VDC, (Both
sides of the fuse just to be sure).

I have no schematic, so I don't know what the voltage should be off
that fuse but this seems really low. I also am not completely certain
if I used the correct ground.

Another problem I had was trying to remove the flyback HV wire from
the splitter. The focus wire came out of the focus block no problem
but I wound up cutting the HV wire 3 inches from the flyback. I'm sure
I can fix it with RTV when the time comes. but thats a minor issue. I
now have the board in the shop, if any one has any ideas.

What should have been an easy afternoon turned into a bad day. Can any
Sony guys please help me with troubleshooting this dog further? Thanks
really for ant assistance , Lenny.. . .



Do you have power to the ICs? Check the fuses in the power supply? Why are
you even bothering to look at it without a schematic?

Leonard

wrote in message
...
I posted this set about two weeks ago for a convergence problem
question. The general consensus was that it seemed to be a pretty
routine job. Two STK392-560's, ( I got OEM Sanyo's), check bias
resistors, and all fuses, and I looked for anything else that didn't
look right.

All resistors in the parallel banks checked good. I found six 3.15A
fuses under the two heat sinks and one more 3.15A fuse located
elsewhere on the board. All seven fuses were good and nothing else
seemed to be obvious.

I powered the set up and did the "focus" procedure from the front
panel. The set goes through the procedure but will not converge. The
set was on for about 5 minutes when I touched the two heat sinks that
the 560's are mounted on. I noticed that they were cold. I couldn't
easily get to the fuses under the heat sinks but I did get a voltmeter
on the lone 3.15A fuse located elsewhere on the board. I used one of
the 560 heatsinks as ground. (I hope that was the proper ground for
the 560's supply. I assusme it was.).My meter read 1.70VDC, (Both
sides of the fuse just to be sure).

I have no schematic, so I don't know what the voltage should be off
that fuse but this seems really low. I also am not completely certain
if I used the correct ground.

Another problem I had was trying to remove the flyback HV wire from
the splitter. The focus wire came out of the focus block no problem
but I wound up cutting the HV wire 3 inches from the flyback. I'm sure
I can fix it with RTV when the time comes. but thats a minor issue. I
now have the board in the shop, if any one has any ideas.

What should have been an easy afternoon turned into a bad day. Can any
Sony guys please help me with troubleshooting this dog further? Thanks
really for ant assistance , Lenny.. . .



There is a bad picofuse on the power supply board. I previously mentioned
this possibility in addition to the fuses under the heat sinks.

quote:

"There are some Sony models which get a bad picofuse on a separate power
supply board when the convergence amps fail, in addition to the picofuses
hiding under the STK's heat sinks"


Anyway, I looked at the schematic. The fuses are PS5001 and PS5002 on the G
board which mounts vertically to the left of your convergence board. Little
green 5A picofuses. Only one is usually bad. They are shown on page 76 of
the service manual.


Mark Z.

*.

There is a bad picofuse on the power supply board. I previously mentioned
this possibility in addition to the fuses under the heat sinks.

quote:

"There are some Sony models which get a bad picofuse on a separate power
supply board when the convergence amps fail, in addition to the picofuses
hiding under the STK's heat sinks"


Mark:

I agree from my reading of extensive discussion at the TECHLORE.com
site. Therer apparently are two (2) PICO Fuses on the G Board that
you haver to check also.

Several indepth articles and discussions on the OSNY convergence
problem, these STK you reference , etc. there. It's a plu, for sure,
but only because it's the best info site on these issues I've found.

I'm repairing my SONY KP-61XBR38 convergence issues now. My set uses
different boards and ICs so it's not as cookie cutter.

Also, the moderators from that site have their own REPAIR KIT website
(tvrepairkits.com) where they bundle all the typical parts, paste, and
INSTRUCTIONS into a kit for hobbyist use.

Hope this helps.

On Jun 6, 12:19*pm, varocketry wrote:
*.



There is a bad picofuse on the power supply board. I previously mentioned
this possibility in addition to the fuses under the heat sinks.

quote:

"There are some Sony models which get a bad picofuse on a separate power
supply board when the convergence amps fail, in addition to the picofuses
hiding under the STK's heat sinks"

Mark:

I agree from my reading of extensive discussion at the TECHLORE.com
site. *Therer apparently are two (2) PICO Fuses on the G Board that
you haver to check also.

Several indepth articles and discussions on the OSNY convergence
problem, these STK you reference , etc. there. *It's a plu, for sure,
but only because it's the best info site on these issues I've found.

I'm repairing my SONY KP-61XBR38 convergence issues now. *My set uses
different boards and ICs so it's not as cookie cutter.

Also, the moderators from that site have their own REPAIR KIT website
(tvrepairkits.com) where they bundle all the typical parts, paste, and
INSTRUCTIONS into a kit for hobbyist use.

Hope this helps.

You were very clear Mark but I missed that part of your reply. I saw
the vertically mounted board on the left side. I never checked it
thinking that all pertinent fuses would be on the deflection board. I
remember thinking that there may be a fuse on that board. We'll give
it another shot next week. BTW, what is the trick to removing the HV
wires? Thanks, Lenny.

On Fri, 5 Jun 2009 14:42:41 -0700 (PDT),
" put
finger to keyboard and composed:

I have no schematic ...

I posted this in the previous thread ...

There is an 11 part service manual he
http://www.eserviceinfo.com/download...P-51WS500.html

- Franc Zabkar
--
Please remove one 'i' from my address when replying by email.

On Jun 7, 6:23*pm, Franc Zabkar wrote:
On Fri, 5 Jun 2009 14:42:41 -0700 (PDT),
" put
finger to keyboard and composed:

I have no schematic ...

I posted this in the previous thread ...

There is an 11 part service manual hehttp://www.eserviceinfo.com/download...P-51WS500.html

- Franc Zabkar
--
Please remove one 'i' from my address when replying by email.

I didn't notice that was the service manual for this model. Thanks
very much Frank for that info. On another NG it was mentioned that I
should not have run Auto focus. After replacing the chips that
convergence should have been adjusted via service mode. Now by having
run autofocus as I did after chip replacement did I get the set in
such a way that now changing these fuses won't correct without some
major re alignment procedure? Lenny

wrote in message
...
On Jun 6, 12:19 pm, varocketry wrote:
.



There is a bad picofuse on the power supply board. I previously
mentioned
this possibility in addition to the fuses under the heat sinks.

quote:

"There are some Sony models which get a bad picofuse on a separate power
supply board when the convergence amps fail, in addition to the
picofuses
hiding under the STK's heat sinks"

Mark:

I agree from my reading of extensive discussion at the TECHLORE.com
site. Therer apparently are two (2) PICO Fuses on the G Board that
you haver to check also.

Several indepth articles and discussions on the OSNY convergence
problem, these STK you reference , etc. there. It's a plu, for sure,
but only because it's the best info site on these issues I've found.

I'm repairing my SONY KP-61XBR38 convergence issues now. My set uses
different boards and ICs so it's not as cookie cutter.

Also, the moderators from that site have their own REPAIR KIT website
(tvrepairkits.com) where they bundle all the typical parts, paste, and
INSTRUCTIONS into a kit for hobbyist use.

Hope this helps.

You were very clear Mark but I missed that part of your reply. I saw
the vertically mounted board on the left side. I never checked it
thinking that all pertinent fuses would be on the deflection board. I
remember thinking that there may be a fuse on that board. We'll give
it another shot next week. BTW, what is the trick to removing the HV
wires? Thanks, Lenny.



We have another guy in the field who brings me these boards. There is a tool
he uses to get the high voltage leads out, but can use a drink straw in a
pinch. The straw is slit so as to go around the red wire, pushed down into
the FBT so as to get between the flanged cap on the wire and the surrounding
inner part of the FBT. Pretty tricky though - I hate that kind of thing. On
the rare occasion that I work on the whole TV in the shop, as I recall, I
dismount the HV splitter which allows me more room to stretch the wires, and
just do the soldering etc while sitting there on the floor.

I don't think you need to do this though. Just pull the power supply board,
which does not include the FBT, and replace the picofuse(s).


Mark Z.

On Jun 8, 6:04*am, "Mark Zacharias"
wrote:
wrote in message

...
On Jun 6, 12:19 pm, varocketry wrote:





.

There is a bad picofuse on the power supply board. I previously
mentioned
this possibility in addition to the fuses under the heat sinks.

quote:

"There are some Sony models which get a bad picofuse on a separate power
supply board when the convergence amps fail, in addition to the
picofuses
hiding under the STK's heat sinks"

Mark:

I agree from my reading of extensive discussion at the TECHLORE.com
site. Therer apparently are two (2) PICO Fuses on the G Board that
you haver to check also.

Several indepth articles and discussions on the OSNY convergence
problem, these STK you reference , etc. there. It's a plu, for sure,
but only because it's the best info site on these issues I've found.

I'm repairing my SONY KP-61XBR38 convergence issues now. My set uses
different boards and ICs so it's not as cookie cutter.

Also, the moderators from that site have their own REPAIR KIT website
(tvrepairkits.com) where they bundle all the typical parts, paste, and
INSTRUCTIONS into a kit for hobbyist use.

Hope this helps.
You were very clear Mark but I missed that part of your reply. I saw
the vertically mounted board on the left side. I never checked it
thinking that all pertinent fuses would be on the deflection board. I
remember thinking that there may be a fuse on that board. We'll give
it another shot next week. BTW, what is the trick to *removing the HV
wires? Thanks, Lenny.

We have another guy in the field who brings me these boards. There is a tool
he uses to get the high voltage leads out, but can use a drink straw in a
pinch. The straw is slit so as to go around the red wire, pushed down into
the FBT so as to get between the flanged cap on the wire and the surrounding
inner part of the FBT. Pretty tricky though - I hate that kind of thing. On
the rare occasion that I work on the whole TV in the shop, as I recall, I
dismount the HV splitter which allows me more room to stretch the wires, and
just do the soldering etc while sitting there on the floor.

I don't think you need to do this though. Just pull the power supply board,
which does not include the FBT, and replace the picofuse(s).

Mark Z.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

The old drink straw trick. I remember that kind of tool. We used
something like that to remove pins from Cannon connectors on the
flight computer chassis on the C141A. It was made out of tough teflon
as I recall. That was 40 years ago though so I don't remember
much.....I can try the straw. Thanks. What do you think about the
other part of my question though? Do you think I'm in trouble? Lenny..

wrote in message
...
On Jun 7, 6:23 pm, Franc Zabkar wrote:
On Fri, 5 Jun 2009 14:42:41 -0700 (PDT),
" put
finger to keyboard and composed:

I have no schematic ...

I posted this in the previous thread ...

There is an 11 part service manual
hehttp://www.eserviceinfo.com/download...P-51WS500.html

- Franc Zabkar
--
Please remove one 'i' from my address when replying by email.

I didn't notice that was the service manual for this model. Thanks
very much Frank for that info. On another NG it was mentioned that I
should not have run Auto focus. After replacing the chips that
convergence should have been adjusted via service mode. Now by having
run autofocus as I did after chip replacement did I get the set in
such a way that now changing these fuses won't correct without some
major re alignment procedure? Lenny


Running auto convergence makes no difference at this point.

Leonard

wrote in message
...
On Jun 8, 6:04 am, "Mark Zacharias"
wrote:
wrote in message

...
On Jun 6, 12:19 pm, varocketry wrote:





.

There is a bad picofuse on the power supply board. I previously
mentioned
this possibility in addition to the fuses under the heat sinks.

quote:

"There are some Sony models which get a bad picofuse on a separate
power
supply board when the convergence amps fail, in addition to the
picofuses
hiding under the STK's heat sinks"

Mark:

I agree from my reading of extensive discussion at the TECHLORE.com
site. Therer apparently are two (2) PICO Fuses on the G Board that
you haver to check also.

Several indepth articles and discussions on the OSNY convergence
problem, these STK you reference , etc. there. It's a plu, for sure,
but only because it's the best info site on these issues I've found.

I'm repairing my SONY KP-61XBR38 convergence issues now. My set uses
different boards and ICs so it's not as cookie cutter.

Also, the moderators from that site have their own REPAIR KIT website
(tvrepairkits.com) where they bundle all the typical parts, paste, and
INSTRUCTIONS into a kit for hobbyist use.

Hope this helps.
You were very clear Mark but I missed that part of your reply. I saw
the vertically mounted board on the left side. I never checked it
thinking that all pertinent fuses would be on the deflection board. I
remember thinking that there may be a fuse on that board. We'll give
it another shot next week. BTW, what is the trick to removing the HV
wires? Thanks, Lenny.

We have another guy in the field who brings me these boards. There is a
tool
he uses to get the high voltage leads out, but can use a drink straw in a
pinch. The straw is slit so as to go around the red wire, pushed down into
the FBT so as to get between the flanged cap on the wire and the
surrounding
inner part of the FBT. Pretty tricky though - I hate that kind of thing.
On
the rare occasion that I work on the whole TV in the shop, as I recall, I
dismount the HV splitter which allows me more room to stretch the wires,
and
just do the soldering etc while sitting there on the floor.

I don't think you need to do this though. Just pull the power supply
board,
which does not include the FBT, and replace the picofuse(s).

Mark Z.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

The old drink straw trick. I remember that kind of tool. We used
something like that to remove pins from Cannon connectors on the
flight computer chassis on the C141A. It was made out of tough teflon
as I recall. That was 40 years ago though so I don't remember
much.....I can try the straw. Thanks. What do you think about the
other part of my question though? Do you think I'm in trouble? Lenny..


You don't even need to remove the anode lead. I do these all the time.
Just rotate the board with everything disconnected except the anode and
focus leads. Just be gentle and don't pull on them.

You should not need a tool for these if you never yank on them before trying
to remove them properly. Just push the wire in, twist it about a quarter
turn, and it should come out easily. If you pull on it first, you spread
the clips and even the straw trick may not work.

What most people miss on these sets is that they almost always have
excessive d.c. offset of 200-400 mV on the inputs to the ICs from the DCU,
which results in about the same on the outputs. It is best to keep the
offset lower. My rule of thumb has always been less than 100mV.

Leonard

"Leonard Caillouet" wrote in message
...
wrote in message
...
On Jun 8, 6:04 am, "Mark Zacharias"
wrote:
wrote in message

...
On Jun 6, 12:19 pm, varocketry wrote:





.

There is a bad picofuse on the power supply board. I previously
mentioned
this possibility in addition to the fuses under the heat sinks.

quote:

"There are some Sony models which get a bad picofuse on a separate
power
supply board when the convergence amps fail, in addition to the
picofuses
hiding under the STK's heat sinks"

Mark:

I agree from my reading of extensive discussion at the TECHLORE.com
site. Therer apparently are two (2) PICO Fuses on the G Board that
you haver to check also.

Several indepth articles and discussions on the OSNY convergence
problem, these STK you reference , etc. there. It's a plu, for sure,
but only because it's the best info site on these issues I've found.

I'm repairing my SONY KP-61XBR38 convergence issues now. My set uses
different boards and ICs so it's not as cookie cutter.

Also, the moderators from that site have their own REPAIR KIT website
(tvrepairkits.com) where they bundle all the typical parts, paste, and
INSTRUCTIONS into a kit for hobbyist use.

Hope this helps.
You were very clear Mark but I missed that part of your reply. I saw
the vertically mounted board on the left side. I never checked it
thinking that all pertinent fuses would be on the deflection board. I
remember thinking that there may be a fuse on that board. We'll give
it another shot next week. BTW, what is the trick to removing the HV
wires? Thanks, Lenny.

We have another guy in the field who brings me these boards. There is a
tool
he uses to get the high voltage leads out, but can use a drink straw in a
pinch. The straw is slit so as to go around the red wire, pushed down
into
the FBT so as to get between the flanged cap on the wire and the
surrounding
inner part of the FBT. Pretty tricky though - I hate that kind of thing.
On
the rare occasion that I work on the whole TV in the shop, as I recall, I
dismount the HV splitter which allows me more room to stretch the wires,
and
just do the soldering etc while sitting there on the floor.

I don't think you need to do this though. Just pull the power supply
board,
which does not include the FBT, and replace the picofuse(s).

Mark Z.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

The old drink straw trick. I remember that kind of tool. We used
something like that to remove pins from Cannon connectors on the
flight computer chassis on the C141A. It was made out of tough teflon
as I recall. That was 40 years ago though so I don't remember
much.....I can try the straw. Thanks. What do you think about the
other part of my question though? Do you think I'm in trouble? Lenny..


You don't even need to remove the anode lead. I do these all the time.
Just rotate the board with everything disconnected except the anode and
focus leads. Just be gentle and don't pull on them.

You should not need a tool for these if you never yank on them before
trying to remove them properly. Just push the wire in, twist it about a
quarter turn, and it should come out easily. If you pull on it first, you
spread the clips and even the straw trick may not work.

What most people miss on these sets is that they almost always have
excessive d.c. offset of 200-400 mV on the inputs to the ICs from the DCU,
which results in about the same on the outputs. It is best to keep the
offset lower. My rule of thumb has always been less than 100mV.

Leonard




I forgot about the twist trick!

mz

On Jun 8, 8:56*pm, "Mark Zacharias"
wrote:
"Leonard Caillouet" wrote in message

...





wrote in message
....
On Jun 8, 6:04 am, "Mark Zacharias"
wrote:
wrote in message

....
On Jun 6, 12:19 pm, varocketry wrote:

.

There is a bad picofuse on the power supply board. I previously
mentioned
this possibility in addition to the fuses under the heat sinks.

quote:

"There are some Sony models which get a bad picofuse on a separate
power
supply board when the convergence amps fail, in addition to the
picofuses
hiding under the STK's heat sinks"

Mark:

I agree from my reading of extensive discussion at the TECHLORE.com
site. Therer apparently are two (2) PICO Fuses on the G Board that
you haver to check also.

Several indepth articles and discussions on the OSNY convergence
problem, these STK you reference , etc. there. It's a plu, for sure,
but only because it's the best info site on these issues I've found.

I'm repairing my SONY KP-61XBR38 convergence issues now. My set uses
different boards and ICs so it's not as cookie cutter.

Also, the moderators from that site have their own REPAIR KIT website
(tvrepairkits.com) where they bundle all the typical parts, paste, and
INSTRUCTIONS into a kit for hobbyist use.

Hope this helps.
You were very clear Mark but I missed that part of your reply. I saw
the vertically mounted board on the left side. I never checked it
thinking that all pertinent fuses would be on the deflection board. I
remember thinking that there may be a fuse on that board. We'll give
it another shot next week. BTW, what is the trick to removing the HV
wires? Thanks, Lenny.

We have another guy in the field who brings me these boards. There is a
tool
he uses to get the high voltage leads out, but can use a drink straw in a
pinch. The straw is slit so as to go around the red wire, pushed down
into
the FBT so as to get between the flanged cap on the wire and the
surrounding
inner part of the FBT. Pretty tricky though - I hate that kind of thing.
On
the rare occasion that I work on the whole TV in the shop, as I recall, I
dismount the HV splitter which allows me more room to stretch the wires,
and
just do the soldering etc while sitting there on the floor.

I don't think you need to do this though. Just pull the power supply
board,
which does not include the FBT, and replace the picofuse(s).

Mark Z.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

The old drink straw trick. I remember that kind of tool. We used
something like that to remove pins from Cannon connectors on the
flight computer chassis on the C141A. It was made out of tough teflon
as I recall. That was 40 years ago though so I don't remember
much.....I can try the straw. Thanks. What do you think about the
other part of my question though? Do you think I'm in trouble? Lenny..

You don't even need to remove the anode lead. *I do these all the time.
Just rotate the board with everything disconnected except the anode and
focus leads. *Just be gentle and don't pull on them.

You should not need a tool for these if you never yank on them before
trying to remove them properly. *Just push the wire in, twist it about a
quarter turn, and it should come out easily. *If you pull on it first, you
spread the clips and even the straw trick may not work.

What most people miss on these sets is that they almost always have
excessive d.c. offset of 200-400 mV on the inputs to the ICs from the DCU,
which results in about the same on the outputs. *It is best to keep the
offset lower. *My rule of thumb has always been less than 100mV.

Leonard

I forgot about the twist trick!

mz- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I went over to the job toay and found one open 5 amp fuse in the power
supply board. I replaced it with a small 5A 32V glass fuse and even
before I ran auto focus the picture looked good. Thanks to everyone
for all the assistance. Lenny

wrote in message
...
On Jun 8, 8:56 pm, "Mark Zacharias"
wrote:
"Leonard Caillouet" wrote in message

...





wrote in message
...
On Jun 8, 6:04 am, "Mark Zacharias"
wrote:
wrote in message

...
On Jun 6, 12:19 pm, varocketry wrote:

.

There is a bad picofuse on the power supply board. I previously
mentioned
this possibility in addition to the fuses under the heat sinks.

quote:

"There are some Sony models which get a bad picofuse on a separate
power
supply board when the convergence amps fail, in addition to the
picofuses
hiding under the STK's heat sinks"

Mark:

I agree from my reading of extensive discussion at the TECHLORE.com
site. Therer apparently are two (2) PICO Fuses on the G Board that
you haver to check also.

Several indepth articles and discussions on the OSNY convergence
problem, these STK you reference , etc. there. It's a plu, for sure,
but only because it's the best info site on these issues I've found.

I'm repairing my SONY KP-61XBR38 convergence issues now. My set uses
different boards and ICs so it's not as cookie cutter.

Also, the moderators from that site have their own REPAIR KIT website
(tvrepairkits.com) where they bundle all the typical parts, paste,
and
INSTRUCTIONS into a kit for hobbyist use.

Hope this helps.
You were very clear Mark but I missed that part of your reply. I saw
the vertically mounted board on the left side. I never checked it
thinking that all pertinent fuses would be on the deflection board. I
remember thinking that there may be a fuse on that board. We'll give
it another shot next week. BTW, what is the trick to removing the HV
wires? Thanks, Lenny.

We have another guy in the field who brings me these boards. There is a
tool
he uses to get the high voltage leads out, but can use a drink straw in
a
pinch. The straw is slit so as to go around the red wire, pushed down
into
the FBT so as to get between the flanged cap on the wire and the
surrounding
inner part of the FBT. Pretty tricky though - I hate that kind of
thing.
On
the rare occasion that I work on the whole TV in the shop, as I recall,
I
dismount the HV splitter which allows me more room to stretch the
wires,
and
just do the soldering etc while sitting there on the floor.

I don't think you need to do this though. Just pull the power supply
board,
which does not include the FBT, and replace the picofuse(s).

Mark Z.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

The old drink straw trick. I remember that kind of tool. We used
something like that to remove pins from Cannon connectors on the
flight computer chassis on the C141A. It was made out of tough teflon
as I recall. That was 40 years ago though so I don't remember
much.....I can try the straw. Thanks. What do you think about the
other part of my question though? Do you think I'm in trouble? Lenny..

You don't even need to remove the anode lead. I do these all the time.
Just rotate the board with everything disconnected except the anode and
focus leads. Just be gentle and don't pull on them.

You should not need a tool for these if you never yank on them before
trying to remove them properly. Just push the wire in, twist it about a
quarter turn, and it should come out easily. If you pull on it first,
you
spread the clips and even the straw trick may not work.

What most people miss on these sets is that they almost always have
excessive d.c. offset of 200-400 mV on the inputs to the ICs from the
DCU,
which results in about the same on the outputs. It is best to keep the
offset lower. My rule of thumb has always been less than 100mV.

Leonard

I forgot about the twist trick!

mz- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I went over to the job toay and found one open 5 amp fuse in the power
supply board. I replaced it with a small 5A 32V glass fuse and even
before I ran auto focus the picture looked good. Thanks to everyone
for all the assistance. Lenny



Lenny,

Power supply checks should be routine when servicing electronics, as should
having the proper documentation. Some suggestions for sources for manuals
and schematics are TechData and TechAssist. There are also places to find
model specific tips such as Winstips and the two sites above. For a few
hundred dollars a year a shop can have access to virtually any manual needed
and hundreds of thousands of specific tips on repairs. There are also many
free sites with less breadth in their databases, as well as lots of DIY
sites that have useful information. Personally, as a professional, I would
be embarrassed to have to ask for such information without having searched
for it online first.

I don't mind helping other techs, or even consumers, but one should be able
to do some basic research rather than having others do it.

Leonard Caillouet

On Jun 13, 8:01*am, "Leonard Caillouet" wrote:
wrote in message

...
On Jun 8, 8:56 pm, "Mark Zacharias"
wrote:





"Leonard Caillouet" wrote in message

...

wrote in message
....
On Jun 8, 6:04 am, "Mark Zacharias"
wrote:
wrote in message

....
On Jun 6, 12:19 pm, varocketry wrote:

.

There is a bad picofuse on the power supply board. I previously
mentioned
this possibility in addition to the fuses under the heat sinks.

quote:

"There are some Sony models which get a bad picofuse on a separate
power
supply board when the convergence amps fail, in addition to the
picofuses
hiding under the STK's heat sinks"

Mark:

I agree from my reading of extensive discussion at the TECHLORE.com
site. Therer apparently are two (2) PICO Fuses on the G Board that
you haver to check also.

Several indepth articles and discussions on the OSNY convergence
problem, these STK you reference , etc. there. It's a plu, for sure,
but only because it's the best info site on these issues I've found.

I'm repairing my SONY KP-61XBR38 convergence issues now. My set uses
different boards and ICs so it's not as cookie cutter.

Also, the moderators from that site have their own REPAIR KIT website
(tvrepairkits.com) where they bundle all the typical parts, paste,
and
INSTRUCTIONS into a kit for hobbyist use.

Hope this helps.
You were very clear Mark but I missed that part of your reply. I saw
the vertically mounted board on the left side. I never checked it
thinking that all pertinent fuses would be on the deflection board. I
remember thinking that there may be a fuse on that board. We'll give
it another shot next week. BTW, what is the trick to removing the HV
wires? Thanks, Lenny.

We have another guy in the field who brings me these boards. There is a
tool
he uses to get the high voltage leads out, but can use a drink straw in
a
pinch. The straw is slit so as to go around the red wire, pushed down
into
the FBT so as to get between the flanged cap on the wire and the
surrounding
inner part of the FBT. Pretty tricky though - I hate that kind of
thing.
On
the rare occasion that I work on the whole TV in the shop, as I recall,
I
dismount the HV splitter which allows me more room to stretch the
wires,
and
just do the soldering etc while sitting there on the floor.

I don't think you need to do this though. Just pull the power supply
board,
which does not include the FBT, and replace the picofuse(s).

Mark Z.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

The old drink straw trick. I remember that kind of tool. We used
something like that to remove pins from Cannon connectors on the
flight computer chassis on the C141A. It was made out of tough teflon
as I recall. That was 40 years ago though so I don't remember
much.....I can try the straw. Thanks. What do you think about the
other part of my question though? Do you think I'm in trouble? Lenny...

You don't even need to remove the anode lead. I do these all the time..
Just rotate the board with everything disconnected except the anode and
focus leads. Just be gentle and don't pull on them.

You should not need a tool for these if you never yank on them before
trying to remove them properly. Just push the wire in, twist it about a
quarter turn, and it should come out easily. If you pull on it first,
you
spread the clips and even the straw trick may not work.

What most people miss on these sets is that they almost always have
excessive d.c. offset of 200-400 mV on the inputs to the ICs from the
DCU,
which results in about the same on the outputs. It is best to keep the
offset lower. My rule of thumb has always been less than 100mV.

Leonard

I forgot about the twist trick!

mz- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I went over to the job toay and found one open 5 amp fuse in the power
supply board. I replaced it with a small 5A 32V glass fuse and even
before I ran auto focus the picture looked good. Thanks to everyone
for all the assistance. Lenny

Lenny,

Power supply checks should be routine when servicing electronics, as should
having the proper documentation. *Some suggestions for sources for manuals
and schematics are TechData and TechAssist. *There are also places to find
model specific tips such as Winstips and the two sites above. *For a few
hundred dollars a year a shop can have access to virtually any manual needed
and hundreds of thousands of specific tips on repairs. *There are also many
free sites with less breadth in their databases, as well as lots of DIY
sites that have useful information. *Personally, as a professional, I would
be embarrassed to have to ask for such information without having searched
for it online first.

I don't mind helping other techs, or even consumers, but one should be able
to do some basic research rather than having others do it.

Leonard Caillouet- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

If my original question seems like I just jump in and it has offended
you I appologize. I usually don't just ask. I generally try to do a
search first but I also appreciate talking to fellow techs who have
gone down the particular road I'm planning to travel as well. Its a
little more reassuring that way. We're all just trying to pay the
bills here and everyone's input is both valuable and most sincerely
appreciated. Lenny.