Seem to have to do this a lot these days. I'm hinking of converting one of
these neat little pipe/tube cutters to roll on a spline form.
http://image.bizrate.co.uk/resize?sq...5102&mid=82383
the only pic I could find , a smaller version of these
http://www.choiceful.com/prod_image/66677_l.jpg
by changing the sliding-in cutting wheel to a toothed cog.
Currently I do this spline conversion by thin grind wheel and cutting
splines freehand , so rough and ready, does the job, but not very elegant
and wary of breaking the thin Dremmel type grind wheel.
I cannot even find a brass gear to fit in there for proof of concept, let
alone a steel cog. Anyone know where to look for a steel cog with about 1mm
pitch of teeth , between 10 and 24 mm diameter and between 3.5 and 5 mm
wide. I don't mind sawing and grinding out the slot that takes the roller on
one of these pipe cutters. Where would I find such brass or steel cogs in
some application that could be robbed out. Not much of the shaft needs to be
splined and remainder of shaft could be undercut to clear knob and still
engage well enough for finger pressure.
Or any other ideas ? I have a ball race that would fit in there neatly ,
after widening the slot but would havre to grind teeth to the outer ring of
the race. I'm aware of engineering slit saws and may even be able to justify
the cost of one, but would rather try a proof of concept first

Baron wrote in message
...
N_Cook Inscribed thus:

Seem to have to do this a lot these days. I'm hinking of converting
one of these neat little pipe/tube cutters to roll on a spline form.
http://image.bizrate.co.uk/resize?sq...5102&mid=82383
the only pic I could find , a smaller version of these
http://www.choiceful.com/prod_image/66677_l.jpg
by changing the sliding-in cutting wheel to a toothed cog.
Currently I do this spline conversion by thin grind wheel and cutting
splines freehand , so rough and ready, does the job, but not very
elegant and wary of breaking the thin Dremmel type grind wheel.
I cannot even find a brass gear to fit in there for proof of concept,
let alone a steel cog. Anyone know where to look for a steel cog with
about 1mm pitch of teeth , between 10 and 24 mm diameter and between
3.5 and 5 mm wide. I don't mind sawing and grinding out the slot that
takes the roller on one of these pipe cutters. Where would I find such
brass or steel cogs in some application that could be robbed out. Not
much of the shaft needs to be splined and remainder of shaft could be
undercut to clear knob and still engage well enough for finger
pressure. Or any other ideas ? I have a ball race that would fit in
there neatly , after widening the slot but would havre to grind teeth
to the outer ring of the race. I'm aware of engineering slit saws and
may even be able to justify the cost of one, but would rather try a
proof of concept first

There is one major problem to overcome ! For any given spline pitch
there are fixed diameters where the spline won't over ride ! You
basically want a fixed size forming tool for a particular diameter.
In which case there are companies that manufacture gears and I'm quite
sure that for the right fee they would supply a steel gear that could
be case hardened to do what you want.

--
Best Reagrds:
Baron.


Yes as in knurling, the pattern repeats for only one diameter and a certain
degree of intrusion. Aiming here for 16 around a nominal 6mm spindle.
Proof the concept works. Robbed the steel gripper wheel from a butterfly can
opener, sharpened the points a bit and opened out the central hole. Mounted
in the pipe cutter and produced a neat ring of indents. These were about 2mm
apart and 7 equally spaced around, when cutter advanced far enough in. So a
cog with 1mm spacing should work even easier as long as not too wide. Actual
splined shafts have a 1mm spacing and 16 around.
If nothing else a thin approx 1mm tooth spacing cog from a clockwork clock
mechanism would make an excellent way of marking pot shafts before making
axial cuts with a grind wheel.

N_Cook Inscribed thus:

Baron wrote in message
...
N_Cook Inscribed thus:

Seem to have to do this a lot these days. I'm thinking of
converting one of these neat little pipe/tube cutters to roll on a
spline form.
http://image.bizrate.co.uk/resize?sq...5102&mid=82383 the
only pic I could find , a smaller version of these
http://www.choiceful.com/prod_image/66677_l.jpg by changing the
sliding-in cutting wheel to a toothed cog. Currently I do this
spline conversion by thin grind wheel and cutting splines freehand
, so rough and ready, does the job, but not very elegant and wary
of breaking the thin Dremmel type grind wheel. I cannot even find a
brass gear to fit in there for proof of concept, let alone a steel
cog. Anyone know where to look for a steel cog with about 1mm pitch
of teeth , between 10 and 24 mm diameter and between 3.5 and 5 mm
wide. I don't mind sawing and grinding out the slot that takes the
roller on one of these pipe cutters. Where would I find such brass
or steel cogs in some application that could be robbed out. Not
much of the shaft needs to be splined and remainder of shaft could
be undercut to clear knob and still engage well enough for finger
pressure. Or any other ideas ? I have a ball race that would fit in
there neatly , after widening the slot but would havre to grind
teeth to the outer ring of the race. I'm aware of engineering slit
saws and may even be able to justify the cost of one, but would
rather try a proof of concept first

There is one major problem to overcome ! For any given spline pitch
there are fixed diameters where the spline won't over ride ! You
basically want a fixed size forming tool for a particular diameter.
In which case there are companies that manufacture gears and I'm
quite sure that for the right fee they would supply a steel gear that
could be case hardened to do what you want.

--
Best Reagrds:
Baron.


Yes as in knurling, the pattern repeats for only one diameter and a
certain degree of intrusion.

Actually it would be any diameter where the distance could be divided
exactly by the pitch.

Aiming here for 16 around a nominal 6mm
spindle. Proof the concept works. Robbed the steel gripper wheel from
a butterfly can opener, sharpened the points a bit and opened out the
central hole. Mounted in the pipe cutter and produced a neat ring of
indents. These were about 2mm apart and 7 equally spaced around, when
cutter advanced far enough in.

Good test ! The aluminium must be fairly soft then.

So a cog with 1mm spacing should work
even easier as long as not too wide. Actual splined shafts have a 1mm
spacing and 16 around. If nothing else a thin approx 1mm tooth spacing
cog from a clockwork clock mechanism would make an excellent way of
marking pot shafts before making axial cuts with a grind wheel.

I noticed you mentioned a Dremmel tool earlier.

OK so you know the pitch, you know the length of spline ! That
information should be enough for you to find a steel gear with the
right tooth profile and pitch.

There must be dozens on the net ! Google should help with those.

There is an engineering company just down the road from me and they tell
me that they no longer cut their own gears but buy them in because its
cheaper. They did ask me if I wanted any of their old cutters, but
alas I don't have any means to use them.

I do have a tool & cutter grinder with a dividing head that will do 10
degree steps but I don't have any abrasive wheels small enough for that
kind of profile otherwise I might have a go at making a wheel myself.

--
Best Reagrds:
Baron.

Baron wrote in message
...
N_Cook Inscribed thus:

Baron wrote in message
...
N_Cook Inscribed thus:

Seem to have to do this a lot these days. I'm thinking of
converting one of these neat little pipe/tube cutters to roll on a
spline form.
http://image.bizrate.co.uk/resize?sq...5102&mid=82383 the
only pic I could find , a smaller version of these
http://www.choiceful.com/prod_image/66677_l.jpg by changing the
sliding-in cutting wheel to a toothed cog. Currently I do this
spline conversion by thin grind wheel and cutting splines freehand
, so rough and ready, does the job, but not very elegant and wary
of breaking the thin Dremmel type grind wheel. I cannot even find a
brass gear to fit in there for proof of concept, let alone a steel
cog. Anyone know where to look for a steel cog with about 1mm pitch
of teeth , between 10 and 24 mm diameter and between 3.5 and 5 mm
wide. I don't mind sawing and grinding out the slot that takes the
roller on one of these pipe cutters. Where would I find such brass
or steel cogs in some application that could be robbed out. Not
much of the shaft needs to be splined and remainder of shaft could
be undercut to clear knob and still engage well enough for finger
pressure. Or any other ideas ? I have a ball race that would fit in
there neatly , after widening the slot but would havre to grind
teeth to the outer ring of the race. I'm aware of engineering slit
saws and may even be able to justify the cost of one, but would
rather try a proof of concept first

There is one major problem to overcome ! For any given spline pitch
there are fixed diameters where the spline won't over ride ! You
basically want a fixed size forming tool for a particular diameter.
In which case there are companies that manufacture gears and I'm
quite sure that for the right fee they would supply a steel gear that
could be case hardened to do what you want.

--
Best Reagrds:
Baron.


Yes as in knurling, the pattern repeats for only one diameter and a
certain degree of intrusion.

Actually it would be any diameter where the distance could be divided
exactly by the pitch.

Aiming here for 16 around a nominal 6mm
spindle. Proof the concept works. Robbed the steel gripper wheel from
a butterfly can opener, sharpened the points a bit and opened out the
central hole. Mounted in the pipe cutter and produced a neat ring of
indents. These were about 2mm apart and 7 equally spaced around, when
cutter advanced far enough in.

Good test ! The aluminium must be fairly soft then.

So a cog with 1mm spacing should work
even easier as long as not too wide. Actual splined shafts have a 1mm
spacing and 16 around. If nothing else a thin approx 1mm tooth spacing
cog from a clockwork clock mechanism would make an excellent way of
marking pot shafts before making axial cuts with a grind wheel.

I noticed you mentioned a Dremmel tool earlier.

OK so you know the pitch, you know the length of spline ! That
information should be enough for you to find a steel gear with the
right tooth profile and pitch.

There must be dozens on the net ! Google should help with those.

There is an engineering company just down the road from me and they tell
me that they no longer cut their own gears but buy them in because its
cheaper. They did ask me if I wanted any of their old cutters, but
alas I don't have any means to use them.

I do have a tool & cutter grinder with a dividing head that will do 10
degree steps but I don't have any abrasive wheels small enough for that
kind of profile otherwise I might have a go at making a wheel myself.

--
Best Reagrds:
Baron.


It looks as though the pitch between crests of the gear wheel would have to
be about 0.8mm for it all to work. I may make up some sort of dividing head,
for light inaccurate work, as not the first time I could have used one.

N_Cook wrote:
Baron wrote in message
...
N_Cook Inscribed thus:

Seem to have to do this a lot these days. I'm hinking of converting
one of these neat little pipe/tube cutters to roll on a spline form.
http://image.bizrate.co.uk/resize?sq...5102&mid=82383
the only pic I could find , a smaller version of these
http://www.choiceful.com/prod_image/66677_l.jpg
by changing the sliding-in cutting wheel to a toothed cog.
Currently I do this spline conversion by thin grind wheel and cutting
splines freehand , so rough and ready, does the job, but not very
elegant and wary of breaking the thin Dremmel type grind wheel.
I cannot even find a brass gear to fit in there for proof of concept,
let alone a steel cog. Anyone know where to look for a steel cog with
about 1mm pitch of teeth , between 10 and 24 mm diameter and between
3.5 and 5 mm wide. I don't mind sawing and grinding out the slot that
takes the roller on one of these pipe cutters. Where would I find such
brass or steel cogs in some application that could be robbed out. Not
much of the shaft needs to be splined and remainder of shaft could be
undercut to clear knob and still engage well enough for finger
pressure. Or any other ideas ? I have a ball race that would fit in
there neatly , after widening the slot but would havre to grind teeth
to the outer ring of the race. I'm aware of engineering slit saws and
may even be able to justify the cost of one, but would rather try a
proof of concept first
There is one major problem to overcome ! For any given spline pitch
there are fixed diameters where the spline won't over ride ! You
basically want a fixed size forming tool for a particular diameter.
In which case there are companies that manufacture gears and I'm quite
sure that for the right fee they would supply a steel gear that could
be case hardened to do what you want.

--
Best Reagrds:
Baron.


Yes as in knurling, the pattern repeats for only one diameter and a certain
degree of intrusion. Aiming here for 16 around a nominal 6mm spindle.
Proof the concept works. Robbed the steel gripper wheel from a butterfly can
opener, sharpened the points a bit and opened out the central hole. Mounted
in the pipe cutter and produced a neat ring of indents. These were about 2mm
apart and 7 equally spaced around, when cutter advanced far enough in. So a
cog with 1mm spacing should work even easier as long as not too wide. Actual
splined shafts have a 1mm spacing and 16 around.
If nothing else a thin approx 1mm tooth spacing cog from a clockwork clock
mechanism would make an excellent way of marking pot shafts before making
axial cuts with a grind wheel.


You can buy these pots you know!

Ron

N_Cook wrote:

Baron wrote in message
...
N_Cook Inscribed thus:

Baron wrote in message
...
N_Cook Inscribed thus:

Seem to have to do this a lot these days. I'm thinking of
converting one of these neat little pipe/tube cutters to roll on
a spline form.
http://image.bizrate.co.uk/resize?sq...5102&mid=82383
the only pic I could find , a smaller version of these
http://www.choiceful.com/prod_image/66677_l.jpg by changing the
sliding-in cutting wheel to a toothed cog. Currently I do this
spline conversion by thin grind wheel and cutting splines
freehand , so rough and ready, does the job, but not very
elegant and wary of breaking the thin Dremmel type grind wheel.
I cannot even find a brass gear to fit in there for proof of
concept, let alone a steel cog. Anyone know where to look for a
steel cog with about 1mm pitch of teeth , between 10 and 24 mm
diameter and between 3.5 and 5 mm wide. I don't mind sawing and
grinding out the slot that takes the roller on one of these pipe
cutters. Where would I find such brass or steel cogs in some
application that could be robbed out. Not much of the shaft
needs to be splined and remainder of shaft could be undercut to
clear knob and still engage well enough for finger pressure. Or
any other ideas ? I have a ball race that would fit in there
neatly , after widening the slot but would havre to grind teeth
to the outer ring of the race. I'm aware of engineering slit
saws and may even be able to justify the cost of one, but would
rather try a proof of concept first

There is one major problem to overcome ! For any given spline
pitch
there are fixed diameters where the spline won't over ride ! You
basically want a fixed size forming tool for a particular
diameter. In which case there are companies that manufacture gears
and I'm quite sure that for the right fee they would supply a
steel gear that could be case hardened to do what you want.

--
Best Regards:
Baron.


Yes as in knurling, the pattern repeats for only one diameter and a
certain degree of intrusion.

Actually it would be any diameter where the distance could be divided
exactly by the pitch.

Aiming here for 16 around a nominal 6mm
spindle. Proof the concept works. Robbed the steel gripper wheel
from a butterfly can opener, sharpened the points a bit and opened
out the central hole. Mounted in the pipe cutter and produced a
neat ring of indents. These were about 2mm apart and 7 equally
spaced around, when cutter advanced far enough in.

Good test ! The aluminium must be fairly soft then.

So a cog with 1mm spacing should work
even easier as long as not too wide. Actual splined shafts have a
1mm spacing and 16 around. If nothing else a thin approx 1mm tooth
spacing cog from a clockwork clock mechanism would make an
excellent way of marking pot shafts before making axial cuts with a
grind wheel.

I noticed you mentioned a Dremmel tool earlier.

OK so you know the pitch, you know the length of spline ! That
information should be enough for you to find a steel gear with the
right tooth profile and pitch.

There must be dozens on the net ! Google should help with those.

There is an engineering company just down the road from me and they
tell me that they no longer cut their own gears but buy them in
because its
cheaper. They did ask me if I wanted any of their old cutters, but
alas I don't have any means to use them.

I do have a tool & cutter grinder with a dividing head that will do
10 degree steps but I don't have any abrasive wheels small enough for
that kind of profile otherwise I might have a go at making a wheel
myself.

--
Best Regards:
Baron.


It looks as though the pitch between crests of the gear wheel would
have to be about 0.8mm for it all to work. I may make up some sort of
dividing head, for light inaccurate work, as not the first time I
could have used one.

The dividing head is a small 3" chuck with what looks like a 35 tooth
gear at the back. A spring loaded peg just drops into the gap between
teeth. There is a large knurled nut at the back which is tightened to
stop any movement due to vibration. I use it mostly for sharpening
drills and end mills.

--
Best Regards:
Baron.

On Tue, 31 Mar 2009 17:12:27 +0100, Baron wrote:
N_Cook Inscribed thus:
Baron wrote:
N_Cook Inscribed thus:

Seem to have to do this a lot these days. I'm thinking of
converting one of these neat little pipe/tube cutters to roll on a
spline form.
http://image.bizrate.co.uk/resize?sq...5102&mid=82383 the
only pic I could find , a smaller version of these
http://www.choiceful.com/prod_image/66677_l.jpg by changing the
sliding-in cutting wheel to a toothed cog. Currently I do this
spline conversion by thin grind wheel and cutting splines freehand
, so rough and ready, does the job, but not very elegant and wary
of breaking the thin Dremmel type grind wheel. I cannot even find a
brass gear to fit in there for proof of concept, let alone a steel
cog. Anyone know where to look for a steel cog with about 1mm pitch
of teeth , between 10 and 24 mm diameter and between 3.5 and 5 mm
wide. I don't mind sawing and grinding out the slot that takes the
roller on one of these pipe cutters. Where would I find such brass
or steel cogs in some application that could be robbed out. Not
much of the shaft needs to be splined and remainder of shaft could
be undercut to clear knob and still engage well enough for finger
pressure. Or any other ideas ? I have a ball race that would fit in
there neatly , after widening the slot but would havre to grind
teeth to the outer ring of the race. I'm aware of engineering slit
saws and may even be able to justify the cost of one, but would
rather try a proof of concept first

There is one major problem to overcome ! For any given spline pitch
there are fixed diameters where the spline won't over ride ! You
basically want a fixed size forming tool for a particular diameter.
In which case there are companies that manufacture gears and I'm
quite sure that for the right fee they would supply a steel gear that
could be case hardened to do what you want.

Yes as in knurling, the pattern repeats for only one diameter and a
certain degree of intrusion.

Actually it would be any diameter where the distance could be divided
exactly by the pitch.

Fiddle-faddle. :-)

If all you need is a force-fit of a knob on a shiney/slick shaft, use
large Vise-Grips (tm) ("locking pliers") to bunger up the shaft with the
pliers' teeth in the section the knob will slip on to.

No long division required. :-)

WFM,
Jonesy
--
Marvin L Jones | jonz | W3DHJ | linux
38.24N 104.55W | @ config.com | Jonesy | OS/2
* Killfiling google & XXXXbanter.com: jonz.net/ng.htm

"Ron" wrote in message
...
N_Cook wrote:
Baron wrote in message
...
N_Cook Inscribed thus:

Seem to have to do this a lot these days. I'm hinking of
converting
one of these neat little pipe/tube cutters to roll on a spline
form.
http://image.bizrate.co.uk/resize?sq...5102&mid=82383
the only pic I could find , a smaller version of these
http://www.choiceful.com/prod_image/66677_l.jpg
by changing the sliding-in cutting wheel to a toothed cog.
Currently I do this spline conversion by thin grind wheel and
cutting
splines freehand , so rough and ready, does the job, but not very
elegant and wary of breaking the thin Dremmel type grind wheel.
I cannot even find a brass gear to fit in there for proof of
concept,
let alone a steel cog. Anyone know where to look for a steel cog
with
about 1mm pitch of teeth , between 10 and 24 mm diameter and
between
3.5 and 5 mm wide. I don't mind sawing and grinding out the slot
that
takes the roller on one of these pipe cutters. Where would I find
such
brass or steel cogs in some application that could be robbed out.
Not
much of the shaft needs to be splined and remainder of shaft
could be
undercut to clear knob and still engage well enough for finger
pressure. Or any other ideas ? I have a ball race that would fit
in
there neatly , after widening the slot but would havre to grind
teeth
to the outer ring of the race. I'm aware of engineering slit saws
and
may even be able to justify the cost of one, but would rather try
a
proof of concept first
There is one major problem to overcome ! For any given spline
pitch
there are fixed diameters where the spline won't over ride ! You
basically want a fixed size forming tool for a particular
diameter.
In which case there are companies that manufacture gears and I'm
quite
sure that for the right fee they would supply a steel gear that
could
be case hardened to do what you want.

--
Best Reagrds:
Baron.


Yes as in knurling, the pattern repeats for only one diameter and a
certain
degree of intrusion. Aiming here for 16 around a nominal 6mm
spindle.
Proof the concept works. Robbed the steel gripper wheel from a
butterfly can
opener, sharpened the points a bit and opened out the central hole.
Mounted
in the pipe cutter and produced a neat ring of indents. These were
about 2mm
apart and 7 equally spaced around, when cutter advanced far enough
in. So a
cog with 1mm spacing should work even easier as long as not too
wide. Actual
splined shafts have a 1mm spacing and 16 around.
If nothing else a thin approx 1mm tooth spacing cog from a
clockwork clock
mechanism would make an excellent way of marking pot shafts before
making
axial cuts with a grind wheel.


You can buy these pots you know!

Ron

No use telling that to the intrepid N.Cook! I am always fascinated by
his amazing "repairs" and "modifications" - they remind me of a bygone
era of make do and mend. I cant help thinking that Mr Cook doesnt do
this kind of work to make a living, it surely cannot be cost effective
to spend the amount of effort to effect repairs that he does. That
said, I do have a sort of grudging admiration for his bodges and his
attempts to improve reliability. It also has to be said that if it is
found that one day one his repairs or modifications is deemed to
contribute to a fatality - i.e. by causing a house fire or some other
event he will be well and truly shafted. Sometimes it is very easy to
believe that you are improving something without understanding the
full story of why it was designed that way in the first place. Nine
times out of ten it is because of cost, but not always.

Roy

Ron wrote in message
...
N_Cook wrote:
Baron wrote in message
...
N_Cook Inscribed thus:

Seem to have to do this a lot these days. I'm hinking of converting
one of these neat little pipe/tube cutters to roll on a spline form.
http://image.bizrate.co.uk/resize?sq...5102&mid=82383
the only pic I could find , a smaller version of these
http://www.choiceful.com/prod_image/66677_l.jpg
by changing the sliding-in cutting wheel to a toothed cog.
Currently I do this spline conversion by thin grind wheel and cutting
splines freehand , so rough and ready, does the job, but not very
elegant and wary of breaking the thin Dremmel type grind wheel.
I cannot even find a brass gear to fit in there for proof of concept,
let alone a steel cog. Anyone know where to look for a steel cog with
about 1mm pitch of teeth , between 10 and 24 mm diameter and between
3.5 and 5 mm wide. I don't mind sawing and grinding out the slot that
takes the roller on one of these pipe cutters. Where would I find such
brass or steel cogs in some application that could be robbed out. Not
much of the shaft needs to be splined and remainder of shaft could be
undercut to clear knob and still engage well enough for finger
pressure. Or any other ideas ? I have a ball race that would fit in
there neatly , after widening the slot but would havre to grind teeth
to the outer ring of the race. I'm aware of engineering slit saws and
may even be able to justify the cost of one, but would rather try a
proof of concept first
There is one major problem to overcome ! For any given spline pitch
there are fixed diameters where the spline won't over ride ! You
basically want a fixed size forming tool for a particular diameter.
In which case there are companies that manufacture gears and I'm quite
sure that for the right fee they would supply a steel gear that could
be case hardened to do what you want.

--
Best Reagrds:
Baron.


Yes as in knurling, the pattern repeats for only one diameter and a
certain
degree of intrusion. Aiming here for 16 around a nominal 6mm spindle.
Proof the concept works. Robbed the steel gripper wheel from a butterfly
can
opener, sharpened the points a bit and opened out the central hole.
Mounted
in the pipe cutter and produced a neat ring of indents. These were about
2mm
apart and 7 equally spaced around, when cutter advanced far enough in.
So a
cog with 1mm spacing should work even easier as long as not too wide.
Actual
splined shafts have a 1mm spacing and 16 around.
If nothing else a thin approx 1mm tooth spacing cog from a clockwork
clock
mechanism would make an excellent way of marking pot shafts before
making
axial cuts with a grind wheel.


You can buy these pots you know!

Ron

There are just too many variables
3.5,5.5,6,6.3 mm shaft
large D, small D, spline, round shaft
log, lin,rev log etc
extra long shaft to short stumpy one
front to back dimension
pin spacing
pin stagger
pin dimensions
wattage
diameter
dimension between the pins and where the tracks go into the casing
single or double, unmatching doubles, combined with switch
bass compensation fourth terminal

I would rather crack on adapt and finish a job by bodging or wiring in,
upside down, or whatever, than trying to find a supplier of a particular pot
from all mannner of kit from 1940s to the presnet day.


--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/

Allodoxaphobia wrote in message
...
On Tue, 31 Mar 2009 17:12:27 +0100, Baron wrote:
N_Cook Inscribed thus:
Baron wrote:
N_Cook Inscribed thus:

Seem to have to do this a lot these days. I'm thinking of
converting one of these neat little pipe/tube cutters to roll on a
spline form.
http://image.bizrate.co.uk/resize?sq...5102&mid=82383 the
only pic I could find , a smaller version of these
http://www.choiceful.com/prod_image/66677_l.jpg by changing the
sliding-in cutting wheel to a toothed cog. Currently I do this
spline conversion by thin grind wheel and cutting splines freehand
, so rough and ready, does the job, but not very elegant and wary
of breaking the thin Dremmel type grind wheel. I cannot even find a
brass gear to fit in there for proof of concept, let alone a steel
cog. Anyone know where to look for a steel cog with about 1mm pitch
of teeth , between 10 and 24 mm diameter and between 3.5 and 5 mm
wide. I don't mind sawing and grinding out the slot that takes the
roller on one of these pipe cutters. Where would I find such brass
or steel cogs in some application that could be robbed out. Not
much of the shaft needs to be splined and remainder of shaft could
be undercut to clear knob and still engage well enough for finger
pressure. Or any other ideas ? I have a ball race that would fit in
there neatly , after widening the slot but would havre to grind
teeth to the outer ring of the race. I'm aware of engineering slit
saws and may even be able to justify the cost of one, but would
rather try a proof of concept first

There is one major problem to overcome ! For any given spline pitch
there are fixed diameters where the spline won't over ride ! You
basically want a fixed size forming tool for a particular diameter.
In which case there are companies that manufacture gears and I'm
quite sure that for the right fee they would supply a steel gear that
could be case hardened to do what you want.

Yes as in knurling, the pattern repeats for only one diameter and a
certain degree of intrusion.

Actually it would be any diameter where the distance could be divided
exactly by the pitch.

Fiddle-faddle. :-)

If all you need is a force-fit of a knob on a shiney/slick shaft, use
large Vise-Grips (tm) ("locking pliers") to bunger up the shaft with the
pliers' teeth in the section the knob will slip on to.

No long division required. :-)

WFM,
Jonesy
--
Marvin L Jones | jonz | W3DHJ | linux
38.24N 104.55W | @ config.com | Jonesy | OS/2
* Killfiling google & XXXXbanter.com: jonz.net/ng.htm


Thats an option I'd not thought of.
Find some 1mm spaced ridged steel and stick to some "mole grip" jaws. Squash
and turn a few times, plastic knobs usually so no great precision needed.

--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/

N_Cook wrote:
Allodoxaphobia wrote in message
...
On Tue, 31 Mar 2009 17:12:27 +0100, Baron wrote:
N_Cook Inscribed thus:
Baron wrote:
N_Cook Inscribed thus:

Seem to have to do this a lot these days. I'm thinking of
converting one of these neat little pipe/tube cutters to roll on a
spline form.
http://image.bizrate.co.uk/resize?sq...5102&mid=82383 the
only pic I could find , a smaller version of these
http://www.choiceful.com/prod_image/66677_l.jpg by changing the
sliding-in cutting wheel to a toothed cog. Currently I do this
spline conversion by thin grind wheel and cutting splines freehand
, so rough and ready, does the job, but not very elegant and wary
of breaking the thin Dremmel type grind wheel. I cannot even find a
brass gear to fit in there for proof of concept, let alone a steel
cog. Anyone know where to look for a steel cog with about 1mm pitch
of teeth , between 10 and 24 mm diameter and between 3.5 and 5 mm
wide. I don't mind sawing and grinding out the slot that takes the
roller on one of these pipe cutters. Where would I find such brass
or steel cogs in some application that could be robbed out. Not
much of the shaft needs to be splined and remainder of shaft could
be undercut to clear knob and still engage well enough for finger
pressure. Or any other ideas ? I have a ball race that would fit in
there neatly , after widening the slot but would havre to grind
teeth to the outer ring of the race. I'm aware of engineering slit
saws and may even be able to justify the cost of one, but would
rather try a proof of concept first
There is one major problem to overcome ! For any given spline pitch
there are fixed diameters where the spline won't over ride ! You
basically want a fixed size forming tool for a particular diameter.
In which case there are companies that manufacture gears and I'm
quite sure that for the right fee they would supply a steel gear that
could be case hardened to do what you want.
Yes as in knurling, the pattern repeats for only one diameter and a
certain degree of intrusion.
Actually it would be any diameter where the distance could be divided
exactly by the pitch.
Fiddle-faddle. :-)

If all you need is a force-fit of a knob on a shiney/slick shaft, use
large Vise-Grips (tm) ("locking pliers") to bunger up the shaft with the
pliers' teeth in the section the knob will slip on to.

No long division required. :-)

WFM,
Jonesy
--
Marvin L Jones | jonz | W3DHJ | linux
38.24N 104.55W | @ config.com | Jonesy | OS/2
* Killfiling google & XXXXbanter.com: jonz.net/ng.htm


Thats an option I'd not thought of.
Find some 1mm spaced ridged steel and stick to some "mole grip" jaws. Squash
and turn a few times, plastic knobs usually so no great precision needed.


Actually, there`s probably the germ of a good idea there, if you could
find or make a suitable hydraulic press, and make up some half round
'jaws' with the correct tooth pattern, you could probably form the
aluminium of the shaft quite easily, band sawing in the slot after
cleaning up.

Ron

Ron wrote in message
...
N_Cook wrote:
Allodoxaphobia wrote in message
...
On Tue, 31 Mar 2009 17:12:27 +0100, Baron wrote:
N_Cook Inscribed thus:
Baron wrote:
N_Cook Inscribed thus:

Seem to have to do this a lot these days. I'm thinking of
converting one of these neat little pipe/tube cutters to roll on a
spline form.
http://image.bizrate.co.uk/resize?sq...5102&mid=82383 the
only pic I could find , a smaller version of these
http://www.choiceful.com/prod_image/66677_l.jpg by changing the
sliding-in cutting wheel to a toothed cog. Currently I do this
spline conversion by thin grind wheel and cutting splines freehand
, so rough and ready, does the job, but not very elegant and wary
of breaking the thin Dremmel type grind wheel. I cannot even find a
brass gear to fit in there for proof of concept, let alone a steel
cog. Anyone know where to look for a steel cog with about 1mm pitch
of teeth , between 10 and 24 mm diameter and between 3.5 and 5 mm
wide. I don't mind sawing and grinding out the slot that takes the
roller on one of these pipe cutters. Where would I find such brass
or steel cogs in some application that could be robbed out. Not
much of the shaft needs to be splined and remainder of shaft could
be undercut to clear knob and still engage well enough for finger
pressure. Or any other ideas ? I have a ball race that would fit in
there neatly , after widening the slot but would havre to grind
teeth to the outer ring of the race. I'm aware of engineering slit
saws and may even be able to justify the cost of one, but would
rather try a proof of concept first
There is one major problem to overcome ! For any given spline pitch
there are fixed diameters where the spline won't over ride ! You
basically want a fixed size forming tool for a particular diameter.
In which case there are companies that manufacture gears and I'm
quite sure that for the right fee they would supply a steel gear
that
could be case hardened to do what you want.
Yes as in knurling, the pattern repeats for only one diameter and a
certain degree of intrusion.
Actually it would be any diameter where the distance could be divided
exactly by the pitch.
Fiddle-faddle. :-)

If all you need is a force-fit of a knob on a shiney/slick shaft, use
large Vise-Grips (tm) ("locking pliers") to bunger up the shaft with
the
pliers' teeth in the section the knob will slip on to.

No long division required. :-)

WFM,
Jonesy
--
Marvin L Jones | jonz | W3DHJ | linux
38.24N 104.55W | @ config.com | Jonesy | OS/2
* Killfiling google & XXXXbanter.com: jonz.net/ng.htm


Thats an option I'd not thought of.
Find some 1mm spaced ridged steel and stick to some "mole grip" jaws.
Squash
and turn a few times, plastic knobs usually so no great precision
needed.


Actually, there`s probably the germ of a good idea there, if you could
find or make a suitable hydraulic press, and make up some half round
'jaws' with the correct tooth pattern, you could probably form the
aluminium of the shaft quite easily, band sawing in the slot after
cleaning up.

Ron


Find some fine pitched , BSF ,UNF or metric ordinary steel, non-hardened ,
bolts, but as large a diameter as possible. Hacksaw some "chord" sections
off and braze to some vice jaws sounds plausible.


--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/

Or rather fine pitched nuts, sliced down , due to the concavity, there is
then a lead in formed on the Al and the lead out side is irrelevant.
Pinch the matching bolt in place between the segments while brazing onto the
jaws for alignment


--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/

N_Cook wrote:

Seem to have to do this a lot these days. I'm hinking of converting one of
these neat little pipe/tube cutters to roll on a spline form.
http://image.bizrate.co.uk/resize?sq...5102&mid=82383
the only pic I could find , a smaller version of these
http://www.choiceful.com/prod_image/66677_l.jpg
by changing the sliding-in cutting wheel to a toothed cog.
Currently I do this spline conversion by thin grind wheel and cutting
splines freehand , so rough and ready, does the job, but not very elegant
and wary of breaking the thin Dremmel type grind wheel.
I cannot even find a brass gear to fit in there for proof of concept, let
alone a steel cog. Anyone know where to look for a steel cog with about 1mm
pitch of teeth , between 10 and 24 mm diameter and between 3.5 and 5 mm
wide. I don't mind sawing and grinding out the slot that takes the roller on
one of these pipe cutters. Where would I find such brass or steel cogs in
some application that could be robbed out. Not much of the shaft needs to be
splined and remainder of shaft could be undercut to clear knob and still
engage well enough for finger pressure.
Or any other ideas ? I have a ball race that would fit in there neatly ,
after widening the slot but would havre to grind teeth to the outer ring of
the race. I'm aware of engineering slit saws and may even be able to justify
the cost of one, but would rather try a proof of concept first


Try asking on the right newsgroup: news:rec.crafts.metalworking


--
And another motherboard bites the dust!

N_Cook wrote:
Or rather fine pitched nuts, sliced down , due to the concavity, there is
then a lead in formed on the Al and the lead out side is irrelevant.
Pinch the matching bolt in place between the segments while brazing onto the
jaws for alignment


Well, I was thinking of a somewhat more elegant solution.

I don't quite follow how you would use a nut as as die, surely that
would put a thread on the shaft rather than a spline?

Ron wrote in message
...
N_Cook wrote:
Or rather fine pitched nuts, sliced down , due to the concavity, there
is
then a lead in formed on the Al and the lead out side is irrelevant.
Pinch the matching bolt in place between the segments while brazing onto
the
jaws for alignment


Well, I was thinking of a somewhat more elegant solution.

I don't quite follow how you would use a nut as as die, surely that
would put a thread on the shaft rather than a spline?

Just small sections

You know the way some of these splined spindles are also serrated - I wonder
if someone has been here before.
Anyone know how to smash a large and course file into pieces ? and then
grind down a couple of bits and then fix to the jaws of some lock jaw
pliers.
Grind in at 4 bites and then hold in a vice there and bash with a hammer ?


--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/

Michael A. Terrell wrote in message
m...

N_Cook wrote:

Seem to have to do this a lot these days. I'm hinking of converting one
of
these neat little pipe/tube cutters to roll on a spline form.
http://image.bizrate.co.uk/resize?sq...5102&mid=82383
the only pic I could find , a smaller version of these
http://www.choiceful.com/prod_image/66677_l.jpg
by changing the sliding-in cutting wheel to a toothed cog.
Currently I do this spline conversion by thin grind wheel and cutting
splines freehand , so rough and ready, does the job, but not very
elegant
and wary of breaking the thin Dremmel type grind wheel.
I cannot even find a brass gear to fit in there for proof of concept,
let
alone a steel cog. Anyone know where to look for a steel cog with about
1mm
pitch of teeth , between 10 and 24 mm diameter and between 3.5 and 5 mm
wide. I don't mind sawing and grinding out the slot that takes the
roller on
one of these pipe cutters. Where would I find such brass or steel cogs
in
some application that could be robbed out. Not much of the shaft needs
to be
splined and remainder of shaft could be undercut to clear knob and still
engage well enough for finger pressure.
Or any other ideas ? I have a ball race that would fit in there neatly ,
after widening the slot but would havre to grind teeth to the outer ring
of
the race. I'm aware of engineering slit saws and may even be able to
justify
the cost of one, but would rather try a proof of concept first


Try asking on the right newsgroup: news:rec.crafts.metalworking


--
And another motherboard bites the dust!

The last time I was there it took ages before someone came up with the name
of the machining process for the step and repeat chiselling for forming
those large aluminium heatsinks, found on domestic amps of the 80s, with
those distinctive curved fins, - its called skyving.

--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/

N_Cook wrote:
Ron wrote in message
...
N_Cook wrote:
Or rather fine pitched nuts, sliced down , due to the concavity, there
is
then a lead in formed on the Al and the lead out side is irrelevant.
Pinch the matching bolt in place between the segments while brazing onto
the
jaws for alignment

Well, I was thinking of a somewhat more elegant solution.

I don't quite follow how you would use a nut as as die, surely that
would put a thread on the shaft rather than a spline?

Just small sections

You know the way some of these splined spindles are also serrated - I wonder
if someone has been here before.
Anyone know how to smash a large and course file into pieces ? and then
grind down a couple of bits and then fix to the jaws of some lock jaw
pliers.
Grind in at 4 bites and then hold in a vice there and bash with a hammer ?



Ahhhh you almost had me there... April first aint it!

I've returned to the pipe cutter idea.
I've opened out the slot from 3.5mm to just over 5mm and it will now hold
neatly and freely rotating, a 16mm diameter x 5 mm ball race.
I know I can grind into the outer race with a Dremmel and thin disc
(freehand) and cutting 1mm spaced teeth is possible as proved by cutting
,freehand so rough, some 1mm spaced teeth around a steel washer. Running a
24 TPI hacksaw tightly around a pot shaft produced a ring of about 19 small
indents, so 1mm is about right for 16. Next a bit of trig to find a whole
number of rotations into 16 mm diameter to give about 1mm spacing. Set the
Dremmel on the compound/cross slide of a basic lathe (no dividing plate),
and ballrace tightened to some part threaded stud held in the chuck.
Then with lathe motor isolated find a set of gear ratios and pulley marks,
to give the required steps, by turning the first motor pulley by hand, and
maybe lightly clamping per step.

--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/

On Apr 2, 10:13*am, "N_Cook" wrote:
I've returned to the pipe cutter idea.
I've opened out the slot from 3.5mm to just over 5mm and it will now hold
neatly and freely rotating, a 16mm diameter x 5 mm ball race.
I know I can grind into the outer race with a Dremmel and thin disc
(freehand) and cutting 1mm spaced teeth is possible as proved by cutting
,freehand so rough, some 1mm spaced teeth around a steel washer. Running a
24 TPI hacksaw tightly around a pot shaft produced a ring of about 19 small
indents, so 1mm is about right for 16. Next a bit of trig to find a whole
number of rotations into 16 mm diameter to give about 1mm spacing. Set the
Dremmel on the compound/cross slide of a basic lathe (no dividing plate),
and ballrace tightened to some part threaded stud held in the chuck.
Then with lathe motor isolated find a set of gear ratios and pulley marks,
to give the required steps, by turning the first motor pulley by hand, and
maybe lightly clamping per step.

--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list onhttp://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/

Norm:

You obviously have too much spare time. I have a bunch of things
needing help. Do you make house calls on the west side of the big
pond. G

Bob Hofmann

N_Cook wrote:

I've returned to the pipe cutter idea.
I've opened out the slot from 3.5mm to just over 5mm and it will now
hold neatly and freely rotating, a 16mm diameter x 5 mm ball race.
I know I can grind into the outer race with a Dremmel and thin disc
(freehand) and cutting 1mm spaced teeth is possible as proved by
cutting ,freehand so rough, some 1mm spaced teeth around a steel
washer. Running a 24 TPI hacksaw tightly around a pot shaft produced a
ring of about 19 small indents, so 1mm is about right for 16. Next a
bit of trig to find a whole number of rotations into 16 mm diameter to
give about 1mm spacing. Set the Dremmel on the compound/cross slide of
a basic lathe (no dividing plate), and ballrace tightened to some part
threaded stud held in the chuck. Then with lathe motor isolated find a
set of gear ratios and pulley marks, to give the required steps, by
turning the first motor pulley by hand, and maybe lightly clamping per
step.

These people have what you want !
http://www.rpmechatronics.co.uk

--
Best Regards:
Baron.

hr(bob) wrote in message
...
On Apr 2, 10:13 am, "N_Cook" wrote:
I've returned to the pipe cutter idea.
I've opened out the slot from 3.5mm to just over 5mm and it will now hold
neatly and freely rotating, a 16mm diameter x 5 mm ball race.
I know I can grind into the outer race with a Dremmel and thin disc
(freehand) and cutting 1mm spaced teeth is possible as proved by cutting
,freehand so rough, some 1mm spaced teeth around a steel washer. Running a
24 TPI hacksaw tightly around a pot shaft produced a ring of about 19
small
indents, so 1mm is about right for 16. Next a bit of trig to find a whole
number of rotations into 16 mm diameter to give about 1mm spacing. Set the
Dremmel on the compound/cross slide of a basic lathe (no dividing plate),
and ballrace tightened to some part threaded stud held in the chuck.
Then with lathe motor isolated find a set of gear ratios and pulley marks,
to give the required steps, by turning the first motor pulley by hand, and
maybe lightly clamping per step.

--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list
onhttp://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/

Norm:

You obviously have too much spare time. I have a bunch of things
needing help. Do you make house calls on the west side of the big
pond. G

Bob Hofmann


I like a challenge and may learn something along the way. A week ago , if
someone asked me - can you cut a 0.5mm wide slot in the steel of a ball
race, using mundane equipment, I would have said no.


--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/

N_Cook wrote:

Michael A. Terrell wrote:

Try asking on the right newsgroup: news:rec.crafts.metalworking

The last time I was there it took ages before someone came up with the name
of the machining process for the step and repeat chiselling for forming
those large aluminium heatsinks, found on domestic amps of the 80s, with
those distinctive curved fins, - its called skyving.


So? Its not something done in a home metalworking shop, but knurling
is. Of course you would have to actually do something right, for a
change. Some of the guys on there make things that would blow your
mind, when it comes to custom tools.


--
And another motherboard bites the dust!

Too many belts in the lathe drive train. Settled on a doubled large cable
tie around the chuck, clamped to the lathe bed, as a brake and
anti-backlash. And marking around the chuck 50 divisions covered with a
needle, as indicator, on an arm to a magnetic base. Pulling at the motor V
belt to step round. Mounted the Dremmel on 3 short pieces of Dexion to set
on the tool post with a 45 degree set. 3 rounds of cuts to get to final
profile.
Next time I will spend more time fiddling around DTI setting in the 4-jaw
before starting as there was eccentricity.
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:gra...et/spliner.jpg
There is a lunate form to the cutting edges maybe due to flexing of the
0.6mm thick grinding disc or I did not pay attention to changing direction
of cuts on "odd" and "even" teeth on each pass. Perhaps I should have done
another round of cuts but at the previous depth setting to cut into the
lunate form more. Perhaps it was due to axial play on the Dremmel. Anyway it
works well enough for this purpose. No more than 5mm splining or the
tightening force would be more than finger force on the knurled head bolt
and the aluminium of the holding frame would snap with anything more than
finger force. It is possible to re-engage the spliner further along, synched
with the first cut to form extended splines.
In use leave the pot spindle full length so the 2 round rollers of the
existing pipe cutter can react against the extended shaft. Afterwards cut to
length and the diametrical cut. 16 evenly spaced cuts around the pot shaft
in the bottom view. If not deep enough then at least a good accurate guide
for starting some deeper cuts done freehand with a Dremmel. Didn't think to
measure the diameter of the cutting disc before starting and the others vary
in diameter, but by comparing to them, somwhere between 0 and 0.2mm erosion
of diameter in use

--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/