Background: 1990 Mazda Protege, very well maintained, very clean
under hood. Last night it started as usual. I drove it to the dumpster
at the edge of my property to dump some trash, stopped the car,
and cut engine. When I tried to start it back up, I got the usual
click of a dead battery; digital clock very dim etc.

Went to NAPA today and bought topnotch battery (the same
kind that came in car when new). I did accidentally install
it backwards (neg lead to pos post and pos lead to neg post),
got some sparks, but the battery is now securely connected.
The lead clamps are pretty clean and don't appear damaged.
But no power whatever, clock dead, nothing.

Ideas?

On Wed, 11 Jun 2008 19:00:05 -0400, "Cleo Frank"
wrote:

Background: 1990 Mazda Protege, very well maintained, very clean
under hood. Last night it started as usual. I drove it to the dumpster
at the edge of my property to dump some trash, stopped the car,
and cut engine. When I tried to start it back up, I got the usual
click of a dead battery; digital clock very dim etc.

Went to NAPA today and bought topnotch battery (the same
kind that came in car when new). I did accidentally install
it backwards (neg lead to pos post and pos lead to neg post),
got some sparks, but the battery is now securely connected.
The lead clamps are pretty clean and don't appear damaged.
But no power whatever, clock dead, nothing.

Ideas?


Do you have a schematic of the electrical system? Connecting the
battery backwards will blow electronic gizmos and some steering
diodes. 1990 is late enough to have an engine computer and that may
be toast.

But check fuses . . . a large fuse on the battery wiring may not look
like a fuse at all (that's another place a schematic comes in handy).
There could be a "fusible link" (piece of wire) designed to blow in
the event of a backwards connection. Sometimes physically close to
the alternator. With the battery in backwards, there's a high current
from the battery through the alternator diodes to ground (they are
forward biased in that case, with nothing but the small resistance of
wiring to limit current). Start there.
--


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"Cleo Frank" wrote in message
...
Background: 1990 Mazda Protege, very well maintained, very clean
under hood. Last night it started as usual. I drove it to the dumpster
at the edge of my property to dump some trash, stopped the car,
and cut engine. When I tried to start it back up, I got the usual
click of a dead battery; digital clock very dim etc.

Went to NAPA today and bought topnotch battery (the same
kind that came in car when new). I did accidentally install
it backwards (neg lead to pos post and pos lead to neg post),
got some sparks, but the battery is now securely connected.
The lead clamps are pretty clean and don't appear damaged.
But no power whatever, clock dead, nothing.

Ideas?


Check all your fuses first and replace the ones that are blown. If you
replace all the blown fuses and still have problems you may have damaged some
electronics.

On Wed, 11 Jun 2008 19:59:56 -0400, "Cleo Frank"
wrote:


"Mike" wrote in message
...

Follow the positive battery cable away from the battery, it should go
directly to the main fuse which should be around 60 - 100 amps. It should
be blown, replace it. If it doesn't pull out you may have to unbolt it
from underneath. If you have no power at all you still have a blown fuse
or fusible link.

Main fuse? This one is not in the little box with the rest of the fuses?

Roger, not with the little bitty fuses but something much larger or
piece of wire designed to open with over current.
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"Mike" wrote in message
news

"Cleo Frank" wrote in message
...
Background: 1990 Mazda Protege, very well maintained, very clean
under hood. Last night it started as usual. I drove it to the
dumpster
at the edge of my property to dump some trash, stopped the car,
and cut engine. When I tried to start it back up, I got the usual
click of a dead battery; digital clock very dim etc.

Went to NAPA today and bought topnotch battery (the same
kind that came in car when new). I did accidentally install
it backwards (neg lead to pos post and pos lead to neg post),
got some sparks, but the battery is now securely connected.
The lead clamps are pretty clean and don't appear damaged.
But no power whatever, clock dead, nothing.

Ideas?


Check all your fuses first and replace the ones that are blown. If you
replace all the blown fuses and still have problems you may have damaged
some electronics.

Thanks, I just checked some of the pertinent fuses and, unfortunately,
they are okay. I wonder if replacing the lead clamps might make
a difference. They're pretty clean, but are old enough to vote!

This car is a good old boy and I hate to trash it.

"Cleo Frank" wrote in message
news

"Mike" wrote in message
news

"Cleo Frank" wrote in message
...
Background: 1990 Mazda Protege, very well maintained, very clean
under hood. Last night it started as usual. I drove it to the dumpster
at the edge of my property to dump some trash, stopped the car,
and cut engine. When I tried to start it back up, I got the usual
click of a dead battery; digital clock very dim etc.

Went to NAPA today and bought topnotch battery (the same
kind that came in car when new). I did accidentally install
it backwards (neg lead to pos post and pos lead to neg post),
got some sparks, but the battery is now securely connected.
The lead clamps are pretty clean and don't appear damaged.
But no power whatever, clock dead, nothing.

Ideas?


Check all your fuses first and replace the ones that are blown. If you
replace all the blown fuses and still have problems you may have damaged
some electronics.

Thanks, I just checked some of the pertinent fuses and, unfortunately,
they are okay. I wonder if replacing the lead clamps might make
a difference. They're pretty clean, but are old enough to vote!

This car is a good old boy and I hate to trash it.



Follow the positive battery cable away from the battery, it should go
directly to the main fuse which should be around 60 - 100 amps. It should be
blown, replace it. If it doesn't pull out you may have to unbolt it from
underneath. If you have no power at all you still have a blown fuse or fusible
link.

You need to get a mechanic who understands how to read a voltmeter and
diagnose the problem. I cannot diagnose a problem when the only facts known
are " I put the battery in backwards now it don't work".

"Cleo Frank" wrote in message
news

"Mike" wrote in message
news

"Cleo Frank" wrote in message
...
Background: 1990 Mazda Protege, very well maintained, very clean
under hood. Last night it started as usual. I drove it to the
dumpster
at the edge of my property to dump some trash, stopped the car,
and cut engine. When I tried to start it back up, I got the usual
click of a dead battery; digital clock very dim etc.

Went to NAPA today and bought topnotch battery (the same
kind that came in car when new). I did accidentally install
it backwards (neg lead to pos post and pos lead to neg post),
got some sparks, but the battery is now securely connected.
The lead clamps are pretty clean and don't appear damaged.
But no power whatever, clock dead, nothing.

Ideas?


Check all your fuses first and replace the ones that are blown. If you
replace all the blown fuses and still have problems you may have damaged
some electronics.

Thanks, I just checked some of the pertinent fuses and, unfortunately,
they are okay. I wonder if replacing the lead clamps might make
a difference. They're pretty clean, but are old enough to vote!

This car is a good old boy and I hate to trash it.

"Cleo Frank" wrote in message
news

"Mike" wrote in message
news

"Cleo Frank" wrote in message
...
Background: 1990 Mazda Protege, very well maintained, very clean
under hood. Last night it started as usual. I drove it to the dumpster
at the edge of my property to dump some trash, stopped the car,
and cut engine. When I tried to start it back up, I got the usual
click of a dead battery; digital clock very dim etc.

Went to NAPA today and bought topnotch battery (the same
kind that came in car when new). I did accidentally install
it backwards (neg lead to pos post and pos lead to neg post),
got some sparks, but the battery is now securely connected.
The lead clamps are pretty clean and don't appear damaged.
But no power whatever, clock dead, nothing.

Ideas?


Check all your fuses first and replace the ones that are blown. If you
replace all the blown fuses and still have problems you may have damaged some
electronics.

Thanks, I just checked some of the pertinent fuses and, unfortunately,
they are okay. I wonder if replacing the lead clamps might make
a difference. They're pretty clean, but are old enough to vote!

This car is a good old boy and I hate to trash it.



Nope... The battery clamps are probably OK. There is a chance that the heavy
cable from battery negative to chassis (or engine), or the cable from battery
positive to the starter or starter relay is loose. Check the connections on the
other end of those wires. If they're tight and clean (not corroded), then they
are likely not the problem.
That said, there's a 99.97% chance that you've damaged the car's electronics
(computers). Your ECC (Engine Control Computer) is the guy that controls almost
everything under the hood. If he's dead, then your car is essentially dead.
Haul or tow the car to a *qualified* service facility for a thorough diagnosis.
If it's the ECC, make sure your Master Card and/or Visa are in good standing.
Judging from your description of events, the car might be beyond economical
repair.

--
Dave M
MasonDG44 at comcast dot net (Just substitute the appropriate characters in the
address)

Experience: What you get when you don't get what you want

"Mike" wrote in message
...

Follow the positive battery cable away from the battery, it should go
directly to the main fuse which should be around 60 - 100 amps. It should
be blown, replace it. If it doesn't pull out you may have to unbolt it
from underneath. If you have no power at all you still have a blown fuse
or fusible link.

Main fuse? This one is not in the little box with the rest of the fuses?

Andy writes:

I had a similar problem with a Hyundai Accent.
Exactly the same symptoms as low low battery OR
corroded battery terminals...
A hydrometer
said the battery was OK, a voltmeter said the battery and the
terminal connections were OK, fuses were OK, and I was stumped

UNTIL I saw some small copper bits on the driveway.......

It seems that mice or squirrels had made a little space for themselves
beside the battery and there was a wire in the way so they just chewed
it out to make more room.

Fortunately, they had left enough lead at the connector that I could
splice/solder in a jumper to repair the missing 3 inch section.

I never did find out which wire it was since once the problem was
fixed I lost interest. I THINK, however, that it went from the
positive
battery terminal to the fuse box, but I can't be sure.

So, you may have some missing wire sections.

This has happened to me in this car, my truck, and twice in
,my motorhome. Mice and/or squirrels....

Good luck.

Andy in Eureka, Texas

"default" wrote in message
...

On Wed, 11 Jun 2008 19:59:56 -0400, "Cleo Frank"
wrote:


"Mike" wrote in message
...

Follow the positive battery cable away from the battery, it should go
directly to the main fuse which should be around 60 - 100 amps. It
should
be blown, replace it. If it doesn't pull out you may have to unbolt it
from underneath. If you have no power at all you still have a blown fuse
or fusible link.

Main fuse? This one is not in the little box with the rest of the fuses?

Roger, not with the little bitty fuses but something much larger or
piece of wire designed to open with over current.

AOK, thanks a bunch. I'll do a little investigation on this tomorrow.
Thanks to you too, Andy and Mike, and Dave..
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Cleo Frank wrote:
[...]bought [a] battery[...] I did accidentally install it backwards

As has been said: high probability electronic items are smoked.

[...]the battery is now securely connected.
[...]no power whatever, clock dead, nothing.

I start with the lights, then try lights+horn.

A voltmeter is a pretty lousy tool for troubleshooting this
(well, after an initial check of the battery).
The light-bulb probes they sell in auto parts departments
are better for this--or you can make your own with any auto bulb.

Unlike a voltmeter, because these PULL SOME CURRENT,
they are really good at sorting out a YES from a NO from a MAYBE.
You can also tell Pass/Fail out of the corner of your eye.

Clip the lead hanging out the end to a part of the body
and start probing with the point.
When you stop seeing it light up, back up.
If you can't get anything from the body to the + post of the battery,
the ground connection from the battery is open.

On Jun 11, 7:59*pm, JeffM wrote:
Cleo Frank wrote:
[...]bought [a] battery[...] *I did accidentally install it backwards

As has been said: high probability electronic items are smoked.

[...]the battery is now securely connected.
[...]no power whatever, clock dead, nothing.

I start with the lights, then try lights+horn.

A voltmeter is a pretty lousy tool for troubleshooting this
(well, after an initial check of the battery).
The light-bulb probes they sell in auto parts departments
are better for this--or you can make your own with any auto bulb.

Unlike a voltmeter, because these PULL SOME CURRENT,
they are really good at sorting out a YES from a NO from a MAYBE.
You can also tell Pass/Fail out of the corner of your eye.

Clip the lead hanging out the end to a part of the body
and start probing with the point.
When you stop seeing it light up, back up.
If you can't get anything from the body to the + post of the battery,
the ground connection from the battery is open.

Start out by seeing if the headlights light, that will tell you if
there is at least some connection between the battery and the rest of
the system

Cleo Frank wrote:

Background: 1990 Mazda Protege, very well maintained, very clean
under hood. Last night it started as usual. I drove it to the dumpster
at the edge of my property to dump some trash, stopped the car,
and cut engine. When I tried to start it back up, I got the usual
click of a dead battery; digital clock very dim etc.

Went to NAPA today and bought topnotch battery (the same
kind that came in car when new). I did accidentally install
it backwards

Oh - oh !

(neg lead to pos post and pos lead to neg post),
got some sparks, but the battery is now securely connected.
The lead clamps are pretty clean and don't appear damaged.
But no power whatever, clock dead, nothing.

The earth strap bonding the engine to chassis is probably open.

Graham

default wrote:

Do you have a schematic of the electrical system? Connecting the
battery backwards will blow electronic gizmos and some steering
diodes. 1990 is late enough to have an engine computer and that may
be toast.

Believe it or not I have once stupidly done the same (just brushed the terminals
thankfully) but it seems everything was reverse protected.

Graham

Cleo Frank wrote:

Background: 1990 Mazda Protege, very well maintained, very clean
under hood. Last night it started as usual. I drove it to the dumpster
at the edge of my property to dump some trash, stopped the car,
and cut engine. When I tried to start it back up, I got the usual
click of a dead battery; digital clock very dim etc.

Went to NAPA today and bought topnotch battery (the same
kind that came in car when new).

Unless the original battery was shot (and even if wasn't charging well that's
probably because there were only a few strands left of the earth strap), let's
hope they'll take it back then.

I made just the same mistake when an earth strap failed on a car of mine.
Halfords took it back though.

Graham

Mike wrote:

Follow the positive battery cable away from the battery, it should go
directly to the main fuse which should be around 60 - 100 amps. It should be
blown, replace it. If it doesn't pull out you may have to unbolt it from
underneath. If you have no power at all you still have a blown fuse or fusible
link.

And follow the damn NEGATIVE connections all the way to the engine block too.

I know one lass whose negative connection to the block was relying on the
accelerator cable. Come deep winter and more cranking amps, the cable blew like a
fuse ! And I'd warned that as a recent secondhand purchase it needed a good look
over for any potential sillies but girls just can't think that way it seems, you
know the "but it was working" mentality.

Graham

Cleo Frank wrote:

"Mike" wrote

Follow the positive battery cable away from the battery, it should go
directly to the main fuse which should be around 60 - 100 amps. It should
be blown, replace it. If it doesn't pull out you may have to unbolt it
from underneath. If you have no power at all you still have a blown fuse
or fusible link.

Main fuse? This one is not in the little box with the rest of the fuses?

Not all cars are the same. Don't worry.

Graham

DaveM wrote:

There is a chance that the heavy
cable from battery negative to chassis (or engine), or the cable from battery
positive to the starter or starter relay is loose

At least one other person here has some brains. The symptoms are classic.

Graham

I would check that the connections are on taught. What you are
describing is the alternator is probably not properly charging the
battery.

Sometimes when a battery in a car goes bad, it also takes the
alternator with it. There are times when the alternator goes first and
damages the battery because it overcharges the battery and then goes
shorted from overheating. Some vehicles have an external voltage
control or management module. This should also be changed along with
the alternator.

A professional mechanic always runs a test on the alternator when
replacing the battery. If the alternator is defective, you may have to
replace the battery again if the battery was damaged.

Jerry G.









On Jun 11, 7:00*pm, "Cleo Frank" wrote:
Background: * 1990 Mazda Protege, very well maintained, very clean
under hood. * Last night it started as usual. * I drove it to the dumpster
at the edge of my property to dump some trash, stopped the car,
and cut engine. * When I tried to start it back up, I got the usual
click of a dead battery; *digital clock very dim etc.

Went to NAPA today and bought topnotch battery (the same
kind that came in car when new). * I did accidentally install
it backwards (neg lead to pos post and pos lead to neg post),
got some sparks, but the battery is now securely connected.
The lead clamps are pretty clean and don't appear damaged.
But no power whatever, clock dead, nothing.

Ideas?

"Jerry G." wrote:

I would check that the connections are on taught. What you are
describing is the alternator is probably not properly charging the
battery.

No is isn't.


Sometimes when a battery in a car goes bad, it also takes the
alternator with it.

Just how ?


There are times when the alternator goes first and
damages the battery because it overcharges the battery and then goes
shorted from overheating.

He's only driven to the edge of his plot FFS !

I'm 99.9% certain it's a broken earth strap. You can usually check easily with a
heavy duty jump lead placed between some good (unpainted) contacts points on the
engine block and car chassis, re-making the connection, unless it's further back
the chain right at the battery (but unlikely).

Graham

"Cleo Frank" wrote in
:


"Mike" wrote in message
...

Follow the positive battery cable away from the battery, it should
go
directly to the main fuse which should be around 60 - 100 amps. It
should be blown, replace it. If it doesn't pull out you may have to
unbolt it from underneath. If you have no power at all you still have
a blown fuse or fusible link.

Main fuse? This one is not in the little box with the rest of the
fuses?

Most cars have TWO fuse boxes;one under the hood that holds the high
current fuses for engine stuff,and one under the dash for the rest of the
car. the main fusebox is usually close to the battery.

The main fuse is actually a fusible link;a metal strap designed to melt as
a specific current.

see your owner's manual,or get a service manual from an auto store or
online.

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net

"DaveM" wrote in
:


"Cleo Frank" wrote in message
news

"Mike" wrote in message
news

"Cleo Frank" wrote in message
...
Background: 1990 Mazda Protege, very well maintained, very clean
under hood. Last night it started as usual. I drove it to the
dumpster at the edge of my property to dump some trash, stopped the
car, and cut engine. When I tried to start it back up, I got the
usual click of a dead battery; digital clock very dim etc.

Went to NAPA today and bought topnotch battery (the same
kind that came in car when new). I did accidentally install
it backwards (neg lead to pos post and pos lead to neg post),
got some sparks, but the battery is now securely connected.
The lead clamps are pretty clean and don't appear damaged.
But no power whatever, clock dead, nothing.

Ideas?


Check all your fuses first and replace the ones that are blown. If
you
replace all the blown fuses and still have problems you may have
damaged some electronics.

Thanks, I just checked some of the pertinent fuses and,
unfortunately, they are okay. I wonder if replacing the lead clamps
might make a difference. They're pretty clean, but are old enough
to vote!

This car is a good old boy and I hate to trash it.



Nope... The battery clamps are probably OK. There is a chance that
the heavy cable from battery negative to chassis (or engine), or the
cable from battery positive to the starter or starter relay is loose.
Check the connections on the other end of those wires. If they're
tight and clean (not corroded), then they are likely not the problem.
That said, there's a 99.97% chance that you've damaged the car's
electronics (computers). Your ECC (Engine Control Computer) is the
guy that controls almost everything under the hood. If he's dead,
then your car is essentially dead. Haul or tow the car to a
*qualified* service facility for a thorough diagnosis. If it's the
ECC, make sure your Master Card and/or Visa are in good standing.
Judging from your description of events, the car might be beyond
economical repair.


you can get a good ECU from a junkyard,for a fraction of wehat a dealer
would charge.
you MUST match the part numbers for your specific model and engine.

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net

On Jun 11, 3:00*pm, "Cleo Frank" wrote:
Background: * 1990 Mazda Protege, very well maintained, very clean
under hood. * Last night it started as usual. * I drove it to the dumpster
at the edge of my property to dump some trash, stopped the car,
and cut engine. * When I tried to start it back up, I got the usual
click of a dead battery; *digital clock very dim etc.

Went to NAPA today and bought topnotch battery (the same
kind that came in car when new). * I did accidentally install
it backwards (neg lead to pos post and pos lead to neg post),
got some sparks, but the battery is now securely connected.
The lead clamps are pretty clean and don't appear damaged.
But no power whatever, clock dead, nothing.

Ideas?

"Refer all servicing to qualified personnel"

So far in my life I've had a total of 3 car batteries that simply went
open
circuit, presumably from a failed internal connection. In all cases
simply replacing the battery (and verifying the charging system) was
all that was needed. Fortunately I got the polarity right the first
time.
The other 2 got changed at Sears but worked anyway. Also in all
cases everything operated normally until it died when trying to
start.
"Normally" included no dim lights, sluggish starter motor, etc.

G²

so now that you have the battery in correctly, are you getting 13.2
volts across it? that would be a good place to start.

"Steve B." wrote:


I'm 99.9% certain it's a broken earth strap. You can usually check easily with a
heavy duty jump lead placed between some good (unpainted) contacts points on the
engine block and car chassis, re-making the connection, unless it's further back
the chain right at the battery (but unlikely).

Graham

When you hook up the battery backwards (the OP did) it doesn't cause
the "earth strap" to break.

I didn't say it did.

The OP says it failed to re-satrt long before he fitted the replacement battery.

Did you even bother to read the post properly ?

Graham


It burns out the fusible links or blows
fuses and maybe even cooks some electronic components.

Never cooked any for me, but it was just a brief touch. Wouldn't have given the
alternator diodes too long to live.

Graham

On Thu, 12 Jun 2008 03:14:31 +0100, Eeyore
wrote:



default wrote:

Do you have a schematic of the electrical system? Connecting the
battery backwards will blow electronic gizmos and some steering
diodes. 1990 is late enough to have an engine computer and that may
be toast.

Believe it or not I have once stupidly done the same (just brushed the terminals
thankfully) but it seems everything was reverse protected.

Graham

I knew a guy who did that to a company truck - just long enough to fry
one or two diodes - from that moment on the charging indicator would
glow dimly all the time but otherwise it ran OK.
--


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On Jun 12, 12:20*am, Steve B. wrote:
I'm 99.9% certain it's a broken earth strap. You can usually check easily with a
heavy duty jump lead placed between some good (unpainted) contacts points on the
engine block and car chassis, re-making the connection, unless it's further back
the chain right at the battery (but unlikely).

Graham

When you hook up the battery backwards (the OP did) it doesn't cause
the "earth strap" to break. *It burns out the fusible links or blows
fuses and maybe even cooks some electronic components.



Alternator diodes are a good possibility. And many other more
expensive things
if they were not polarity protected.

* * * * *Steve B.

On Wed, 11 Jun 2008 19:00:05 -0400, Cleo Frank wrote:

Background: 1990 Mazda Protege, very well maintained, very clean
under hood. Last night it started as usual. I drove it to the dumpster
at the edge of my property to dump some trash, stopped the car,
and cut engine. When I tried to start it back up, I got the usual
click of a dead battery; digital clock very dim etc.

2c guess/question, has the starter motor stuck up? my 92 mazda van just
occassionally has the starter motor latch up (no noise), So I tap the
side with a hammer via a 3' rod (well, it is buried weel underneath) and
all is hnky dory.

Cleo Frank wrote:
Background: 1990 Mazda Protege, very well maintained, very clean
under hood. Last night it started as usual. I drove it to the dumpster
at the edge of my property to dump some trash, stopped the car,
and cut engine. When I tried to start it back up, I got the usual
click of a dead battery; digital clock very dim etc.

Sounds good. It would be a good idea to check the voltage with a meter
when running and not running so you know if it's just the battery or something
else, but that would indicate the battery.

Went to NAPA today and bought topnotch battery (the same
kind that came in car when new). I did accidentally install
it backwards (neg lead to pos post and pos lead to neg post),
got some sparks, but the battery is now securely connected.
The lead clamps are pretty clean and don't appear damaged.
But no power whatever, clock dead, nothing.

Ideas?

If you are lucky, you have just blown the fusible links on the battery
lines. More likely you have blown some fuses too. Worst case you've
blown the alternator, ECU, and a bunch of sensors with the reverse polarity
as well.
--scott

--
"C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis."

"Eeyore" wrote in message
...

Believe it or not I have once stupidly done the same (just brushed the
terminals
thankfully) but it seems everything was reverse protected.

Yeah, I did it to sheepish grin on my Toyota Celica GT about 20 years ago.
In a dimly lit parking garage at K-Mart late one night when I needed a
battery. No damage other than blowing the fuse that controlled my the
motors on my flip-up headlights (although headlights still worked, just
pointed straight down). Flipped it around and the car was A-OK. Did make
some sparks as I recall and I did feel exceedingly stupid for not being more
careful.

"Cleo Frank" wrote in message
...
Background: 1990 Mazda Protege, very well maintained, very clean
under hood. Last night it started as usual. I drove it to the dumpster
at the edge of my property to dump some trash, stopped the car,
and cut engine. When I tried to start it back up, I got the usual
click of a dead battery; digital clock very dim etc.

Went to NAPA today and bought topnotch battery (the same
kind that came in car when new). I did accidentally install
it backwards (neg lead to pos post and pos lead to neg post),
got some sparks, but the battery is now securely connected.
The lead clamps are pretty clean and don't appear damaged.
But no power whatever, clock dead, nothing.

It WAS the main fuse (80 A). The box that contained this thing
was right in front of my eyes practically the whole time, next to
battery ..DUHHHHHH

Car is now its usual chipper self!

THANKS!



Ideas?

"Cleo Frank" wrote: 1990 Mazda Protege

I accidentally connected my new battery backwards
(neg lead to pos post and pos lead to neg post),
got some sparks. It is now correctly connected,
but no power whatever, clock dead, nothing.
___________________________________________

"Cleo Frank" wrote:

Update (for anyone interested). Problem discovered

It WAS the main fuse (80 A). The box that contained
this thing was right in front of my eyes practically the
whole time, next to battery ..DUHHHHHH

Car is now its usual chipper self! THANKS!
____________________________________________

Those of us who post here always enjoy hearing whether
our advice or opinions helped solve a problem. Thank you
for taking the time to report back.

Rodan.

"DaveM" wrote in message
...


Nope... The battery clamps are probably OK. There is a chance that the
heavy cable from battery negative to chassis (or engine), or the cable
from battery positive to the starter or starter relay is loose. Check the
connections on the other end of those wires. If they're tight and clean
(not corroded), then they are likely not the problem.
That said, there's a 99.97% chance that you've damaged the car's
electronics (computers). Your ECC (Engine Control Computer) is the guy
that controls almost everything under the hood. If he's dead, then your
car is essentially dead.
Haul or tow the car to a *qualified* service facility for a thorough
diagnosis. If it's the ECC, make sure your Master Card and/or Visa are in
good standing. Judging from your description of events, the car might be
beyond economical repair.

--

Regarding your original problem, as others have suggested, a bad ground (-)
connection at the battery or where the battery cable is bolted to the car's
frame would cause the symptoms you described... intermittent non-starting,
dim instruments. Or a ground fault elsewhere. Ground faults are a *******
to diagnose, they could be caused by a wire's insulation having rubbed off,
a poor connection, a broken solder joint, corrosion inside a wire's
insulation which can't be seen. I have worked extensively on older cars'
electrical systems, and it takes some serious patience AND LOTS OF TIME
generally. I'm not saying that it definitely won't be a quick fix, just
mentally set yourself up for the long haul. That's why people in the know
shudder when you start talking about an intermittent ground fault problem...
and that's why it's generaly at least a few hundred bucks when you bring
your car to an auto electric specialist.

As far as hooking up the battery backwards, you can get a pretty good
indication of whether it's electronics or wiring by doing some simple tests.
Honk the horn. Turn on the headlights. These are generally both NOT wired
through the ignition module or ECC and should work if the battery is good
and the wiring is intact. If they DO work, that means any fusible link or
main fuse is fine, and that your problem is most likely with your ECC or,
hopefully, a fuse which controls the ECC. You can often buy salvaged ECC's
from online junkyards, you need to be EXTREMELEY SPECIFIC with the model
number... pull yours out and job down the exact model number. Different
models and/or years of the same car have different engines or features that
the ECC controls, so they are very specific to the particular year and model
of vehicle.

You blew the fuse links (not regular fuses), and prolly the ECM and
assorted other cotrollers. Have fun.
JR


Cleo Frank wrote:

Background: 1990 Mazda Protege, very well maintained, very clean
under hood. Last night it started as usual. I drove it to the dumpster
at the edge of my property to dump some trash, stopped the car,
and cut engine. When I tried to start it back up, I got the usual
click of a dead battery; digital clock very dim etc.

Went to NAPA today and bought topnotch battery (the same
kind that came in car when new). I did accidentally install
it backwards (neg lead to pos post and pos lead to neg post),
got some sparks, but the battery is now securely connected.
The lead clamps are pretty clean and don't appear damaged.
But no power whatever, clock dead, nothing.

Ideas?



--
--------------------------------------------------------------
Home Page: http://www.seanet.com/~jasonrnorth

On Jun 11, 4:19*pm, default wrote:
On Wed, 11 Jun 2008 19:59:56 -0400, "Cleo Frank"
wrote:
\
Main fuse? *This one is not in the little box with the rest of the fuses?

Roger, not with the little bitty fuses but something much larger or
piece of wire designed to open with over current.

Yep, the infamous "fusible link" looks just like any other
wire BUT it's a selected length and gage (you DON'T
want to replace it with any other gage of wire!).

And, don't just casually replace the three inches
that burned up. You gotta replace the whole eight inches,
or it will die again, soon. DAMHIKT.

On Wed, 11 Jun 2008 19:00:05 -0400, "Cleo Frank" wrote:

:Background: 1990 Mazda Protege, very well maintained, very clean
:under hood. Last night it started as usual. I drove it to the dumpster
:at the edge of my property to dump some trash, stopped the car,
:and cut engine. When I tried to start it back up, I got the usual
:click of a dead battery; digital clock very dim etc.
:
:Went to NAPA today and bought topnotch battery (the same
:kind that came in car when new). I did accidentally install
:it backwards (neg lead to pos post and pos lead to neg post),
:got some sparks, but the battery is now securely connected.
:The lead clamps are pretty clean and don't appear damaged.
:But no power whatever, clock dead, nothing.
:
:Ideas?
:


See message #3246 (and onwards) here
http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/dir.../.ee99794/3237

Bloke did something similar - he connected a battery charger in reverse. Your
car is probably similarly afflicted - ie. blown 100A fuse.

Cleo Frank wrote:

Background: 1990 Mazda Protege, very well maintained, very clean
under hood. Last night it started as usual. I drove it to the dumpster
at the edge of my property to dump some trash, stopped the car,
and cut engine. When I tried to start it back up, I got the usual
click of a dead battery; digital clock very dim etc.

Went to NAPA today and bought topnotch battery (the same
kind that came in car when new). I did accidentally install
it backwards (neg lead to pos post and pos lead to neg post),
got some sparks, but the battery is now securely connected.
The lead clamps are pretty clean and don't appear damaged.
But no power whatever, clock dead, nothing.

Ideas?

Blown fusible link.


--
Paul Hovnanian
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Have gnu, will travel.

In article ,
says...
Just how dead are doornails?
Come to think of it.......
What the hell is a doornail anyhow?

Try Searching the net....

Too Lazy?

Try here;

http://www.thefreedictionary.com/doornail



- Tim -