Electronics Repair (sci.electronics.repair) Discussion of repairing electronic equipment. Topics include requests for assistance, where to obtain servicing information and parts, techniques for diagnosis and repair, and annecdotes about success, failures and problems.

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Default Damproof cable

To avoid condensation creeping, via capillary action, between copper
conductor and the sleeving from an open end into otherwise sealed section.
How to make or what sort of term or construction to look for in cable specs?

--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/



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Default Damproof cable


"N_Cook" wrote in message
...
To avoid condensation creeping, via capillary action, between copper
conductor and the sleeving from an open end into otherwise sealed section.
How to make or what sort of term or construction to look for in cable
specs?

--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/




In the ham radio fraternity, we seal open cable ends with self-amalgamating
tape, silicon rubber compound, hot-melt glue, glue lined heat-shrink tubing,
or a combination of them. Water ingress by capilliary action, is a common
problem with coaxially constructed cables, and some types of RF connector,
when used outdoors.

Arfa


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Default Damproof cable

In article ,
N_Cook wrote:
To avoid condensation creeping, via capillary action, between copper
conductor and the sleeving from an open end into otherwise sealed
section. How to make or what sort of term or construction to look for in
cable specs?


Sealing the outer sheath into an enclosure is quite easy as glands exist
for this purpose with round cables. But to be sure moisture can't enter a
stripped back cable it needs to be potted in a suitable compound. Such
things are available from any decent electrical wholesaler.

--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/


--
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Dave Plowman (News) wrote in message
...
In article ,
N_Cook wrote:
To avoid condensation creeping, via capillary action, between copper
conductor and the sleeving from an open end into otherwise sealed
section. How to make or what sort of term or construction to look for in
cable specs?


Sealing the outer sheath into an enclosure is quite easy as glands exist
for this purpose with round cables. But to be sure moisture can't enter a
stripped back cable it needs to be potted in a suitable compound. Such
things are available from any decent electrical wholesaler.

--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/


--
*One nice thing about egotists: they don't talk about other people.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.



What would be nice is a trade-name or process name for ,say, conductor
moulded into sheathing so if the open end sealing fails it cannot migrate
along the cable.
Basicly a cable that you cannot use a wire-stripper tool on and cleave the
sheathing away without leaving sheathing adhering to the conductor,
presumably single strand.

--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/


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Default Damproof cable

not coaxial cable in this case




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"N_Cook" wrote in message
...
To avoid condensation creeping, via capillary action, between copper
conductor and the sleeving from an open end into otherwise sealed section.
How to make or what sort of term or construction to look for in cable
specs?

--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/





Probably better to just sleeve/seal the ends if and when required. There
are lots of heatshrink products available for this.


Gareth.


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Default Damproof cable

Gareth Magennis wrote in message
...

"N_Cook" wrote in message
...
To avoid condensation creeping, via capillary action, between copper
conductor and the sleeving from an open end into otherwise sealed

section.
How to make or what sort of term or construction to look for in cable
specs?

--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/





Probably better to just sleeve/seal the ends if and when required. There
are lots of heatshrink products available for this.


Gareth.



But heatshrink leaves a capilliary path.
If there was a way of making sure the conductor stayed reasonably axial then
a few inch length of hotmelt glue around the conductor and then
remelted/compressed in the process of contracting heatshrink sleeving around
that, would probably be ok. After the first few inches bond to normal
sleeving.
It is just a matter of avoiding damp migration into the start of the cable.

--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/



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"N_Cook" wrote in news:fv9qdq$ed1$1
@registered.motzarella.org:

But heatshrink leaves a capilliary path.

Depends on the heat shrink. Some contain a liner that melts and gives an
airtight seal.



--
bz

please pardon my infinite ignorance, the set-of-things-I-do-not-know is an
infinite set.

remove ch100-5 to avoid spam trap
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"N_Cook" wrote in message
...
Gareth Magennis wrote in message
...

"N_Cook" wrote in message
...
To avoid condensation creeping, via capillary action, between copper
conductor and the sleeving from an open end into otherwise sealed

section.
How to make or what sort of term or construction to look for in cable
specs?

--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/





Probably better to just sleeve/seal the ends if and when required. There
are lots of heatshrink products available for this.


Gareth.



But heatshrink leaves a capilliary path.




No, some heatshrink does.

http://www.farnell.com/datasheets/83969.pdf




Gareth.






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Default Damproof cable

In article ,
"N_Cook" wrote:

To avoid condensation creeping, via capillary action, between copper
conductor and the sleeving from an open end into otherwise sealed section.
How to make or what sort of term or construction to look for in cable specs?



I think the buzz-word you're looking for is "solid core."


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Gareth Magennis wrote in message
...

"N_Cook" wrote in message
...
Gareth Magennis wrote in message
...

"N_Cook" wrote in message
...
To avoid condensation creeping, via capillary action, between copper
conductor and the sleeving from an open end into otherwise sealed

section.
How to make or what sort of term or construction to look for in cable
specs?

--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/





Probably better to just sleeve/seal the ends if and when required.

There
are lots of heatshrink products available for this.


Gareth.



But heatshrink leaves a capilliary path.




No, some heatshrink does.

http://www.farnell.com/datasheets/83969.pdf




Gareth.







No it doesn't, that pdf is for heatshrinking down onto cable and connectors,
not stopping moisture getting along the 0.8mm to 1mm diameter cores of
cables

Thinking of farnell/cpc in the UK.
Who else here watches the "Gadget Show" ?
Lead in or lead out graphic of CPC testing? one of their ICs by zapping a
discharge over the pins

--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/


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Default Damproof cable


"N_Cook" wrote in message
...
Gareth Magennis wrote in message
...

"N_Cook" wrote in message
...
Gareth Magennis wrote in message
...

"N_Cook" wrote in message
...
To avoid condensation creeping, via capillary action, between copper
conductor and the sleeving from an open end into otherwise sealed
section.
How to make or what sort of term or construction to look for in
cable
specs?

--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/





Probably better to just sleeve/seal the ends if and when required.

There
are lots of heatshrink products available for this.


Gareth.



But heatshrink leaves a capilliary path.




No, some heatshrink does.

http://www.farnell.com/datasheets/83969.pdf




Gareth.







No it doesn't, that pdf is for heatshrinking down onto cable and
connectors,
not stopping moisture getting along the 0.8mm to 1mm diameter cores of
cables

Thinking of farnell/cpc in the UK.
Who else here watches the "Gadget Show" ?
Lead in or lead out graphic of CPC testing? one of their ICs by zapping a
discharge over the pins

--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/




Nope, can't translate that at all.



Gareth.


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Default Damproof cable


N_Cook wrote:

To avoid condensation creeping, via capillary action, between copper
conductor and the sleeving from an open end into otherwise sealed section.
How to make or what sort of term or construction to look for in cable specs?



The only wire that meets your requirement is intended for direct
burial, and is called 'Flooded cable' Nasty stuff to work with. It is
made for CATV, Networking and TELCO applications. Stock up on good
industrial hand cleaner and a bale of paper towels if you decide to use
it.


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Michael A. Terrell wrote in message
m...

N_Cook wrote:

To avoid condensation creeping, via capillary action, between copper
conductor and the sleeving from an open end into otherwise sealed

section.
How to make or what sort of term or construction to look for in cable

specs?


The only wire that meets your requirement is intended for direct
burial, and is called 'Flooded cable' Nasty stuff to work with. It is
made for CATV, Networking and TELCO applications. Stock up on good
industrial hand cleaner and a bale of paper towels if you decide to use
it.


--
http://improve-usenet.org/index.html


Use any search engine other than Google till they stop polluting USENET
with porn and junk commercial SPAM

If you have broadband, your ISP may have a NNTP news server included in
your account: http://www.usenettools.net/ISP.htm



Sounds like fighting fire with fire. How to avoid liquid migrating along a
core - flood the interior with liguid.

Had a go chopping off a 2 inch length of hotmelt glue stick. Ground a crude
chisel on one end of a length of 1mm rod and drilled/melted through the
stick, pulled out while still warm. heated a copper wire cable core and
pushed through.
Covered with some heatshrink and a ceramic bead at the open end to keep
roughly centralised. Heating the copper and sleeving with hot air gun and
allowing the hotmelt to ooze out until contracted down, then cutting off
bead
section.

Cut it open to check and seemed a good bond but will repeat and stand in
some water with potassium permanganate on the upper end of the hotmelt
section and leave for a few days

--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/





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In article ,
N_Cook wrote:

But heatshrink leaves a capilliary path.
If there was a way of making sure the conductor stayed reasonably axial then
a few inch length of hotmelt glue around the conductor and then
remelted/compressed in the process of contracting heatshrink sleeving around
that, would probably be ok. After the first few inches bond to normal
sleeving.


That same effect can be achieved with what's called "flooded" or
"dual wall" heatshrink tubing. It consists of two layers, the outer
being the usual sort of heatshrink material and the inner being a
near-equivalent to hot-melt glue.

Put some of this around the conductor or joint, apply heat, the inner
layer melts, the outer layer shrinks and forces the molten goop into a
bond with the conductor, and (frequently) a bit of the excess goop
expresses out of the end to let you know that it's on the job and
working. Allow to cool, and you're good to go.

Flooded heat-shrink is rather more expensive than standard single-wall
but is well worth the cost if you're installing wires which will be
exposed to moisture.

--
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Sounds like fighting fire with fire. How to avoid liquid migrating along a
core - flood the interior with liguid.




It's not as if it's filled with sal****er. The "liquid" is a very nasty
thick grease, I think it's silicone based. It has the look and feel of
uncured clear silicone caulk, really gross stuff, I haven't found any
solvent that washes it off, hence the comment about the roll of paper
towels.


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Flooded heat-shrink is rather more expensive than standard single-wall
but is well worth the cost if you're installing wires which will be
exposed to moisture.

--
Dave Platt AE6EO
Friends of Jade Warrior home page: http://www.radagast.org/jade-warrior
I do _not_ wish to receive unsolicited commercial email, and I will
boycott any company which has the gall to send me such ads!



For small projects, I've occasionally sliced strips of hot melt glue stick
and stuck it inside the heatshrink prior to shrinking it. It's not as
convenient as the flooded heatshrink but it has the same effect. It's handy
for automotive splices.


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In article ,
N_Cook wrote:
Had a go chopping off a 2 inch length of hotmelt glue stick. Ground a
crude chisel on one end of a length of 1mm rod and drilled/melted
through the stick, pulled out while still warm. heated a copper wire
cable core and pushed through.


I'm not convinced hot melt is waterproof in the long term. Better with
silicone.

--
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Sounds like fighting fire with fire. How to avoid liquid migrating along a
core - flood the interior with liguid.


It's not as if it's filled with sal****er. The "liquid" is a very nasty
thick grease, I think it's silicone based. It has the look and feel of
uncured clear silicone caulk, really gross stuff, I haven't found any
solvent that washes it off, hence the comment about the roll of paper
towels.


Belden seems to "flood" with a grease based on polyethylene or other
polyolefins. Their trade name for the gel flooding construction is
"CoreGuard".

According to one report, Gunk engine-degreasing compound will remove it.

--
Dave Platt AE6EO
Friends of Jade Warrior home page: http://www.radagast.org/jade-warrior
I do _not_ wish to receive unsolicited commercial email, and I will
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On Wed, 30 Apr 2008 08:15:35 +0100, "N_Cook" wrote:

:To avoid condensation creeping, via capillary action, between copper
:conductor and the sleeving from an open end into otherwise sealed section.
:How to make or what sort of term or construction to look for in cable specs?


What type of cable are you talking about?

If you can find a friendly telco cable jointer working in the street I'm sure he
would be able to give you some tips.
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