Hi guys,

My Wi-Fi access point (D-Link DWL-700AP) ceased to work, but I found
out what the problem was. The power adapter is dead. However, in my
junkpile I managed to find a generic power adapter from some old
appliance, and it seems to work with the access point.

Now, I have a question: Is it safe to use the generic one? I am afraid
of burning down my house or something like that.

The original adapter for the access point (now dead) said:
Input: 100-240V, 50-60 Hz 0.5A
Output: 5V 2A

The "new" one (don't know where I got it from) reads:
Input: 230V ~ 50 Hz 140 mA
Output: 6V 2.1A


(We have 230V 50Hz here in Denmark where I live)

Thanks,

Kind Regards, Jonas

Jonas wrote:
Hi guys,

My Wi-Fi access point (D-Link DWL-700AP) ceased to work, but I found
out what the problem was. The power adapter is dead. However, in my
junkpile I managed to find a generic power adapter from some old
appliance, and it seems to work with the access point.

Now, I have a question: Is it safe to use the generic one? I am afraid
of burning down my house or something like that.

The original adapter for the access point (now dead) said:
Input: 100-240V, 50-60 Hz 0.5A
Output: 5V 2A

The "new" one (don't know where I got it from) reads:
Input: 230V ~ 50 Hz 140 mA
Output: 6V 2.1A


(We have 230V 50Hz here in Denmark where I live)

Thanks,

Kind Regards, Jonas

Probably going to work okay, but I'd be more comfortable if it was a 5
volt unit. That's a 20% overvoltage, but likely there is voltage
regulation within the router, and tolerances on power supplies is not
all that tight anyway.

jak

"jakdedert" wrote in message
.. .
Jonas wrote:
Hi guys,

My Wi-Fi access point (D-Link DWL-700AP) ceased to work, but I found
out what the problem was. The power adapter is dead. However, in my
junkpile I managed to find a generic power adapter from some old
appliance, and it seems to work with the access point.

Now, I have a question: Is it safe to use the generic one? I am afraid
of burning down my house or something like that.

The original adapter for the access point (now dead) said:
Input: 100-240V, 50-60 Hz 0.5A
Output: 5V 2A

The "new" one (don't know where I got it from) reads:
Input: 230V ~ 50 Hz 140 mA
Output: 6V 2.1A


(We have 230V 50Hz here in Denmark where I live)

Thanks,

Kind Regards, Jonas

Probably going to work okay, but I'd be more comfortable if it was a 5
volt unit. That's a 20% overvoltage, but likely there is voltage
regulation within the router, and tolerances on power supplies is not all
that tight anyway.

jak

You could always open it up and place a 2 amp rated standard silicon diode
in series with the output. that will drop the output voltage by 0.6v or so
to a more 'comfortable' 5.4v

Arfa

jakdedert wrote:
Probably going to work okay, but I'd be more comfortable if it was a 5
volt unit. That's a 20% overvoltage, but likely there is voltage
regulation within the router, and tolerances on power supplies is not
all that tight anyway.

It depends. Some things don't seem to care, 5 volts or 6 volts or even
8 or 9 (not recommended) work e.g. EdiMax and D-Link routers I have.
Other things will work with only 5 volts e.g. a Linksys PAP2 I have.

The Linksys simply will not turn on if the voltage is too high. :-(


Geoff.
--
Geoffrey S. Mendelson, Jerusalem, Israel N3OWJ/4X1GM

Hi guys

Thank you everyone. I'll consider try dopping the voltage as
described.

It depends. Some things don't seem to care, 5 volts or 6 volts or even
8 or 9 (not recommended) work e.g. EdiMax and D-Link routers I have.
Other things will work with only 5 volts e.g. a Linksys PAP2 I have.

Thats interesting. Mine is a D-Link, and it seems to be doing fine so
far at 6V...

Regards, Jonas

On Mar 31, 2:14*pm, Jonas wrote:

My Wi-Fi access point (D-Link DWL-700AP) ceased to work, but I found
out what the problem was.
The original adapter for the access point (now dead) said:
Input: 100-240V, 50-60 Hz 0.5A
Output: 5V *2A

The "new" one (don't know where I got it from) reads:
Input: 230V ~ 50 Hz 140 mA
Output: 6V *2.1A

As for safe-against-fire, it's probably OK. All the adapters have
similar fire-safety requirements... but your WiFi access point
might burn up tomorrow. Either reverse-engineer the DWL box,
or find a more suitable adapter. "5V" might mean 5V +/- 10%,
but it isn't a match for "6V". In a pinch, you could tap your
(presumably nearby) PC power supply, the red + black wires on the
dangling disk-drive connectors have plenty of power to spare.
So much, that you should only run wires outside the box after placing
a proper (3A) inline fuse.