Electronics Repair (sci.electronics.repair) Discussion of repairing electronic equipment. Topics include requests for assistance, where to obtain servicing information and parts, techniques for diagnosis and repair, and annecdotes about success, failures and problems.

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Default Solar Garden Lighs/sidewalk lights

A neighbor across the street has five of them along each side of his
sidewalk.In the day time, the solar cells on top of the lights charge up
a little battery, (even on cloudy days too) and at dusk, the lights
light up and shine all night long.My neighbor said the lights wont put
out any light if he brings them (or one of them) inside his house.The
lights charge up in the day time, why wont they work inside his house?
cuhulin

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Default Solar Garden Lighs/sidewalk lights

In article 39,
bz wrote:



It IS usually bright enough inside the house to keep the solar night lights
FROM TURNING ON.
Did he turn off the room lights?

as for charging the lights, now that is another question.


The trouble I had was pounding the stakes into the concrete slab. The
sledge hammer kept smashing the solar cells on top.
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Default Solar Garden Lighs/sidewalk lights

Smitty Two wrote in
news
In article 39,
bz wrote:



It IS usually bright enough inside the house to keep the solar night
lights FROM TURNING ON.
Did he turn off the room lights?

as for charging the lights, now that is another question.


The trouble I had was pounding the stakes into the concrete slab. The
sledge hammer kept smashing the solar cells on top.


Next time, wrap your hand over the solar cells. It will keep them from
getting broken.






--
bz 73 de N5BZ k

please pardon my infinite ignorance, the set-of-things-I-do-not-know is an
infinite set.

remove ch100-5 to avoid spam trap
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Default Solar Garden Lighs/sidewalk lights


"bz" wrote in message
98.139...
Smitty Two wrote in
news
In article 39,
bz wrote:



It IS usually bright enough inside the house to keep the solar night
lights FROM TURNING ON.
Did he turn off the room lights?

as for charging the lights, now that is another question.


The trouble I had was pounding the stakes into the concrete slab. The
sledge hammer kept smashing the solar cells on top.


Next time, wrap your hand over the solar cells. It will keep them from
getting broken.


LMAO !!!!

Arfa


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Default Solar Garden Lighs/sidewalk lights

On Thu, 06 Mar 2008 07:03:13 GMT, Ross Herbert
put finger to keyboard and composed:

If you mean that the lamps are already charged by being in the sun and they
won't light when he brings them inside the house during the day then this is
also easy to explain. The lamps have an LDR which only allows the light to come
on after dusk or when the LDR is covered.


I would think that an LDR would be an unnecessary expense. Surely all
you would need to do would be to detect whether there was any output
from the solar cell.

- Franc Zabkar
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Default Solar Garden Lighs/sidewalk lights

On Sat, 08 Mar 2008 06:53:32 +1100, Franc Zabkar
wrote:

:On Thu, 06 Mar 2008 07:03:13 GMT, Ross Herbert
put finger to keyboard and composed:
:
:If you mean that the lamps are already charged by being in the sun and they
:won't light when he brings them inside the house during the day then this is
:also easy to explain. The lamps have an LDR which only allows the light to
come
:on after dusk or when the LDR is covered.
:
:I would think that an LDR would be an unnecessary expense. Surely all
:you would need to do would be to detect whether there was any output
:from the solar cell.
:
:- Franc Zabkar


The idea is for the solar cell to charge the battery during the daytime and for
the LED to come on only when needed ie, after dark. The LDR senses dusk and
performs the function. If the LED was allowed to stay on during the daytime
while the battery was also being charged, the battery would never fully charge.
The solar cell isn't very efficient.
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Default Solar Garden Lighs/sidewalk lights

Next time I go to the Wal Mart store, I am going to look around in the
yard and garden department.I will buy one or two of those lights and let
them charge up in the daytime outside.Then I will bring them into a dark
room in my house and see if they will put out any light.They might be
good for power outages.

On the web, Diesel Fuel Trees in Brazil

That will boggle your mind.
cuhulin

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Default Solar Garden Lighs/sidewalk lights

On Sat, 08 Mar 2008 05:27:08 GMT, Ross Herbert
put finger to keyboard and composed:

On Sat, 08 Mar 2008 06:53:32 +1100, Franc Zabkar
wrote:

:On Thu, 06 Mar 2008 07:03:13 GMT, Ross Herbert
put finger to keyboard and composed:
:
:If you mean that the lamps are already charged by being in the sun and they
:won't light when he brings them inside the house during the day then this is
:also easy to explain. The lamps have an LDR which only allows the light to
come
:on after dusk or when the LDR is covered.
:
:I would think that an LDR would be an unnecessary expense. Surely all
:you would need to do would be to detect whether there was any output
:from the solar cell.
:
:- Franc Zabkar


The idea is for the solar cell to charge the battery during the daytime and for
the LED to come on only when needed ie, after dark.


Understood.

The LDR senses dusk and
performs the function.


The solar cell is a *light dependent* sensor. It can perform the same
function. Think about it ;-)

If the LED was allowed to stay on during the daytime
while the battery was also being charged, the battery would never fully charge.
The solar cell isn't very efficient.


Understood.

- Franc Zabkar
--
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Default Solar Garden Lighs/sidewalk lights

On Sat, 08 Mar 2008 17:37:27 +1100, Franc Zabkar
put finger to keyboard and composed:

On Sat, 08 Mar 2008 05:27:08 GMT, Ross Herbert
put finger to keyboard and composed:


The LDR senses dusk and
performs the function.


The solar cell is a *light dependent* sensor. It can perform the same
function. Think about it ;-)


Hmm. Here are two circuits which don't require an additional sensor
and two that use a CdS photocell:

http://members.shaw.ca/novotill/Sola...ight/index.htm

- Franc Zabkar
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Default Solar Garden Lighs/sidewalk lights

On Sat, 08 Mar 2008 17:57:28 +1100, Franc Zabkar
wrote:

:On Sat, 08 Mar 2008 17:37:27 +1100, Franc Zabkar
put finger to keyboard and composed:
:
:On Sat, 08 Mar 2008 05:27:08 GMT, Ross Herbert
put finger to keyboard and composed:
:
:The LDR senses dusk and
:performs the function.
:
:The solar cell is a *light dependent* sensor. It can perform the same
:function. Think about it ;-)

Logical, and understood

:
:Hmm. Here are two circuits which don't require an additional sensor
:and two that use a CdS photocell:
:
: http://members.shaw.ca/novotill/Sola...ight/index.htm
:
:- Franc Zabkar

The only ones I have pulled apart are those with the LDR.
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Default Solar Garden Lighs/sidewalk lights

Ross Herbert wrote:
On Sat, 08 Mar 2008 17:57:28 +1100, Franc Zabkar
wrote:

:On Sat, 08 Mar 2008 17:37:27 +1100, Franc Zabkar
put finger to keyboard and composed:
:
:On Sat, 08 Mar 2008 05:27:08 GMT, Ross Herbert
put finger to keyboard and composed:
:
:The LDR senses dusk and
:performs the function.
:
:The solar cell is a *light dependent* sensor. It can perform the same
:function. Think about it ;-)

Logical, and understood

:
:Hmm. Here are two circuits which don't require an additional sensor
:and two that use a CdS photocell:
:
: http://members.shaw.ca/novotill/Sola...ight/index.htm
:
:- Franc Zabkar

The only ones I have pulled apart are those with the LDR.


Some of mine have ldr`s and one hasnt. the one which has no ldr powers a
string of about 30 leds by upconverting 1.5 volts to 15v pulsed.
there`s a quite complex circuit which detects whethere the cells are
producing any output and switches accordingly. It`s failed twice now due
to the leads from the cells corroding away.

Why is it always the negative lead that corrodes?

Ron(UK)
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Default Solar Garden Lighs/sidewalk lights

Next time I go to the Wal Mart store, I am going to look around in the
yard and garden department.I will buy one or two of those lights and let
them charge up in the daytime outside.Then I will bring them into a dark
room in my house and see if they will put out any light.They might be
good for power outages.


How do you intend to charge the lamps indoors?


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Default Solar Garden Lighs/sidewalk lights

In auto batteries, it is usually the positive cell (or is it the
negative cell? it's been a long time, I forget which one) next to that
post which is the first to fail.Positive is really Negative, but dont
tell the SAE that.
cuhulin



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Default Solar Garden Lighs/sidewalk lights

On Sat, 08 Mar 2008 11:42:24 +0000, "Ron(UK)"
put finger to keyboard and composed:

Some of mine have ldr`s and one hasnt. the one which has no ldr powers a
string of about 30 leds by upconverting 1.5 volts to 15v pulsed.
there`s a quite complex circuit which detects whethere the cells are
producing any output and switches accordingly. It`s failed twice now due
to the leads from the cells corroding away.

Why is it always the negative lead that corrodes?

Ron(UK)


I'm not sure if this applies to you, but I've solved corrosion
problems with the solar powered "eternity" lamps at the cemetery by
using gel filled telecom "butt connectors":

http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3...D P16W8FB2Ngl

- Franc Zabkar
--
Please remove one 'i' from my address when replying by email.
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Default Solar Garden Lighs/sidewalk lights

On Sat, 08 Mar 2008 11:42:24 +0000, "Ron(UK)" wrote:

:
:Why is it always the negative lead that corrodes?
:
:Ron(UK)

I am not a chemical engineer so I don't have any practical knowledge of galvanic
corrosion protection. There is a so-called Galvanic Table from which the degree
of corrosion can be predicted and it basically says that the higher the order of
one metal (on the table) relevant to another metal in close proximity, the the
higher order metal will corrode when an electrolyte covers them both.

Copper wire connected to the negative terminal is fairly high on the galvanic
table and assuming the casing of the solar lamp is made of stainless steel, this
metal is lower on the galvanic table. Moisture, complete with impurities will
condense across the surfaces of both metals during the night and set up
electrolytic action, thus the higher order metal will corrode.

The table is the galvanic series of metals in sea water from Army Missile
Command Report RS-TR-67-11, "Practical Galvanic Series."

The Galvanic Table

Active (Anodic)

1 Magnesium
2 Mg alloy AZ-31B
3 Mg alloy HK-31A
4 Zinc (hot-dip, die cast, or plated)
5 Beryllium (hot pressed)
6 Al 7072 clad on 7075
7 Al 2014-T3
8 Al 1160-H14
9 Al 7079-T6
10 Cadmium (plated)
11 Uranium
12 Al 218 (die cast)
13 Al 5052-0
14 Al 5052-H12
15 Al 5456-0, H353
16 Al 5052-H32
17 Al 1100-0
18 Al 3003-H25
19 Al 6061-T6
20 Al A360 (die cast)
21 Al 7075-T6
22 Al 6061-0
23 Indium
24 Al 2014-0
25 Al 2024-T4
26 Al 5052-H16
27 Tin (plated)
28 Stainless steel 430 (active)
29 Lead
30 Steel 1010
31 Iron (cast)
32 Stainless steel 410 (active)
33 Copper (plated, cast, or wrought)
34 Nickel (plated)
35 Chromium (Plated)
36 Tantalum
37 AM350 (active)
38 Stainless steel 310 (active)
39 Stainless steel 301 (active)
40 Stainless steel 304 (active)
41 Stainless steel 430 (active)
42 Stainless steel 410 (active)
43 Stainless steel 17-7PH (active)
44 Tungsten
45 Niobium (columbium) 1% Zr
46 Brass, Yellow, 268
47 Uranium 8% Mo.
48 Brass, Naval, 464
49 Yellow Brass
50 Muntz Metal 280
51 Brass (plated)
52 Nickel-silver (18% Ni)
53 Stainless steel 316L (active)
54 Bronze 220
55 Copper 110
56 Red Brass
57 Stainless steel 347 (active)
58 Molybdenum, Commercial pure
59 Copper-nickel 715
60 Admiralty brass
61 Stainless steel 202 (active)
62 Bronze, Phosphor 534 (B-1)
63 Monel 400
64 Stainless steel 201 (active)
65 Carpenter 20 (active)
66 Stainless steel 321 (active)
67 Stainless steel 316 (active)
68 Stainless steel 309 (active)
69 Stainless steel 17-7PH (passive)
70 Silicone Bronze 655
71 Stainless steel 304 (passive)
72 Stainless steel 301 (passive)
73 Stainless steel 321 (passive)
74 Stainless steel 201 (passive)
75 Stainless steel 286 (passive)
76 Stainless steel 316L (passive)
77 AM355 (active)
78 Stainless steel 202 (passive)
79 Carpenter 20 (passive)
80 AM355 (passive)
81 A286 (passive)
82 Titanium 5A1, 2.5 Sn
83 Titanium 13V, 11Cr, 3Al (annealed)
84 Titanium 6Al, 4V (solution treated and aged)
85 Titanium 6Al, 4V (anneal)
86 Titanium 8Mn
87 Titanium 13V, 11Cr 3Al (solution heat treated and aged)
88 Titanium 75A
89 AM350 (passive)
90 Silver
91 Gold
92 Graphite

End - Noble (Less Active, Cathodic)
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Default Solar Garden Lighs/sidewalk lights

However, since the positive lead on the solar cell is also made of copper and
the same condensation will no doubt cover this terminal, why then doesn't the
positive lead corrode too?
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Default Solar Garden Lighs/sidewalk lights

Franc Zabkar wrote:
On Sat, 08 Mar 2008 11:42:24 +0000, "Ron(UK)"
put finger to keyboard and composed:

Some of mine have ldr`s and one hasnt. the one which has no ldr powers a
string of about 30 leds by upconverting 1.5 volts to 15v pulsed.
there`s a quite complex circuit which detects whethere the cells are
producing any output and switches accordingly. It`s failed twice now due
to the leads from the cells corroding away.

Why is it always the negative lead that corrodes?

Ron(UK)


I'm not sure if this applies to you, but I've solved corrosion
problems with the solar powered "eternity" lamps at the cemetery by
using gel filled telecom "butt connectors":

http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3...D P16W8FB2Ngl


They may help, but it`s the actual copper of the wire which turns black
and brittle, the soldered joint is usually fine.

Ron(UK)
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Default Solar Garden Lighs/sidewalk lights

Ross Herbert wrote:
On Sat, 08 Mar 2008 11:42:24 +0000, "Ron(UK)" wrote:

:
:Why is it always the negative lead that corrodes?
:
:Ron(UK)

I am not a chemical engineer so I don't have any practical knowledge of galvanic
corrosion protection. There is a so-called Galvanic Table from which the degree
of corrosion can be predicted and it basically says that the higher the order of
one metal (on the table) relevant to another metal in close proximity, the the
higher order metal will corrode when an electrolyte covers them both.

Copper wire connected to the negative terminal is fairly high on the galvanic
table and assuming the casing of the solar lamp is made of stainless steel, this
metal is lower on the galvanic table. Moisture, complete with impurities will
condense across the surfaces of both metals during the night and set up
electrolytic action, thus the higher order metal will corrode.


Interesting stuff, and there is a correlation between disimilar metals
corroding - sacrificial anodes and all that, but I`m not sure that is
what happens in the case of nicad battery packs

It`s not only in metal cased fixtures tho, most of the garden lights
here are plastic - they only cost a few pounds, not worth repairing really.

I spent a great part of my youth and early adulthood messing about with
radio controlled models, and whenever a Nicad batterpack failure
occured, it was always the negative wire which had turned black and
literally rotted away. I don't think moisture has much of a role in the
matter, as many battery packs are quite well sealed.

I wonder if the same problem occurs with types of battery technology
other than Nicad, NiMH for example?

Even in cars, I believe that it`s usually the Negative battery
connection which gives trouble, either at the battery termnal or the
chassis ground connection.


Ron(UK)


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On Sun, 09 Mar 2008 11:10:20 +0000, "Ron(UK)" wrote:


:
:Interesting stuff, and there is a correlation between disimilar metals
:corroding - sacrificial anodes and all that, but I`m not sure that is
:what happens in the case of nicad battery packs
:
:It`s not only in metal cased fixtures tho, most of the garden lights
:here are plastic - they only cost a few pounds, not worth repairing really.
:
:I spent a great part of my youth and early adulthood messing about with
:radio controlled models, and whenever a Nicad batterpack failure
ccured, it was always the negative wire which had turned black and
:literally rotted away. I don't think moisture has much of a role in the
:matter, as many battery packs are quite well sealed.
:
:I wonder if the same problem occurs with types of battery technology
ther than Nicad, NiMH for example?
:
:Even in cars, I believe that it`s usually the Negative battery
:connection which gives trouble, either at the battery termnal or the
:chassis ground connection.
:
:
:Ron(UK)

I am sure there is a scientific reason for corrosion being mainly on the
negative terminal but I can't quite rationalise it at the moment. I have seen
many reports on car battery negative terminals and wiring corroding and I have
also seen a lesser number of complaints about the positive terminal.

Without going into a scientific discussion on the subject perhaps T.R.B Watson
has a plausible simplified explanation.
http://www.westcoastcorrosion.com/Pa...%20Corrode.pdf
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