Following is a idealized anatomy of a hot water heater replacement and
recommended maintenance performed, basically, on the Internet, in real
time, with the help of everyone here.

This procedure, which combines the best found on the Internet and which
takes into account *every* single of the hundreds of replies in this
newsgroup, is posted with the hope that the next amateur replacing their
natural gas galvanized pipe home hot water heater prints this out and
follows it to their delight and benefit!

A complete set of photos of every step below is available at
http://www.flickr.com/donnaohl

Here it is... this is an idealized version of my experience last week!

If you have old galvanized pipes, consider these preventive steps:
- Remove all debris screens from faucets, & tubs to prevent clogging
- Shut water to dishwaswher to prevent clogging of dishwasher screens
- Remove tub valves (I think) to prevent clogging of tubs

Remove the hot-water heater:
- Shut off the natural gas at the main gas meter (optional)
- Shut off the natural gas at the local hot-water heater (mandatory)
- Wait for the pilot light to go out to ensure no gas is left in the line
- Turn the thermostat on the hot-water heater to the off position
- Wait overnight, if possible, to allow the hot water in the tank to cool
- Or run 10 or 20 gallons of hot water in the house to dilute the tank
- You will be very glad you cooled the water in the tank: Trust me!
- Shut off the main household cold water (if replacing the gate valve)
- Shut the cold-water gate-valve right-side inlet to the hot-water heater
- Open at least one hot-water faucet in the house to drain off pressure
- Open the temperature and pressure valve as a safety measure (optional)
- Unscrew the cold-water inlet at the nipple at the top of the tank
- Unscrew the hot-water outlet at the nipple at the top of the tank
- Use two wrenches on flex connectors or they twist like a phone cord!
- Unscrew the natural gas inlet to the water-heater thermostat
- Cap the newly disconnected natural gas line to prevent contamination
- Connect a garden hose to the plastic hot-water-heater drain valve
- Open drain valve to drain hot water where it will not damage anything
- If 40/50 gallons doesn't come out something is clogged (very common)
- Shake and prod and push to get the water out (it happened to me)
- Otherwise you'll be moving a full tank which can tip (it happened to me)
- Disconnect garden hose and close drain valve when done (40 or 50 gallons)
- Unscrew the sheet-metal screw holding the vent pipe to the draft hood
- Separate the vent pipe from the draft hood (the hat on top middle)
- Unscrew sheet-metal screws holding gas-flue hat onto the vent pipe
- Separate the vent pipe from the gas-flue hat on top center of your heater
- Unscrew the seismic straps (if any) as the last thing before removal
- Remove old heater off the elevated base with two people and a handtruck
- Remove all water plumbing up to and including the old shut-off valve
- Remove all gas plumbing up to and including the old shut-off valve

Replace hot-water heater:
WHILE THE NEW TANK IS SITTING (DRY) ON THE GARAGE FLOOR:
- Remove the heater from the box by cutting the box completely open
- Replace the plastic drain valve with a brass ball valve (optional)
- Install the new temperature and pressure (T&P) relief valve (if needed)
- Note: The brass T&P relief valve may already be installed on your tank
- Install the cold water dialectric check-valve nipple (on the top right)
- Install the hot water dialectric ckeck-valve nipple (on the top left)
- Note: The 2 check-valve nipples may already be installed on your tank.
- Wrap three layers of teflon tape on each dialectric check-valve nipple
- Remember: Always use 2 wrenches when screwing & unscrewing pipe fittings!

MOUNT THE TANK & POSITION THE VENT AND HOOD:
- Mount and level the new hot water heater on the 18-inch elevated base
- Ensure at least six inches of clear space all around the new heater
- Hacksaw the old gas vent so that it fits the new larger water heater
- Ensure the gas vent aligns with the center of the hot-water heater
- Insert legs of the draft hood into the holes in the top of the heater
- Drill a 1/8 inch hole into the draft hood and 3-inch vent pipe
- Screw in at least 1 sheet-metal screw from the vent hood to the vent pipe

ATTACH THE COLD WATER INLET:
- Wrap Teflon tape on the threads of the fittings supplied with the tank
- Insert a blue heat-trap fitting (arrow down) into the cold-water inlet
- Ensure the last two threads are never covered with Teflon tape
- Look end-on through all fittings to ensure no Teflon tape overlap
- Do not use pipe dope on any threads where Teflon tape is noted below
- Screw the cold-water inlet male:male nipple into the top of the tank
- Wrap Teflon tape on the thread of the galvanized 3/4" water-inlet pipe
- Screw a dialectric union on the 3/4" galvanized cold-water inlet pipe
- Check for Teflon tape on the threads of each male:male brass nipple
- Screw the brass male:male nipple on the female:female dialectric union
- Screw a new ball-valve shutoff onto this vertical cold-water inlet pipe
- Wrap Teflon tape on the threads of another male:male brass nipple
- Screw this male:male nipple into the new ball-valve shutoff
- Screw the copper flex pipe onto the cold-water inlet brass nipples

ATTACH THE HOT WATER OUTLET:
- Wrap Teflon tape on the threads of the fittings supplied with the tank
- Ensure the last two threads are never covered with Teflon tape
- Do not use pipe dope on any threads where Teflon tape is noted below
- Insert a red heat-trap fitting (arrow up) into the tank hot-water outlet
- Wrap Teflon tape on the thread of the galvanized 3/4" water-outlet pipe
- Screw a dialectric union on the 3/4" galvanized hot-water outlet pipe
- Wrap Teflon tape on the threads of each male:male brass nipple
- Screw the brass male:male nipple on the female:female dialectric union
- Screw a new one-way check-valve onto this vertical hot-water outlet pipe
- Wrap Teflon tape on the threads of another male:male brass nipple
- Screw this male:male nipple into the new ball-valve shutoff
- Screw the copper flex pipe onto the hot-water inlet brass nipples
- Bend the copper flex pipe into an S shape to further inhibit heat loss

ATTACH THE T&P SAFETY PIPE:
- Screw on rigid high-temperature water pipe to the T&P valve
- The open outlet must be six inches (no more, no less) from the floor
- The open outlet must not be threaded; no valves or traps are allowed
- Place a bowl or bucket at the outlet of this open overflow pipe
- Test the T&P valve & plumbing by flipping the little aluminum lever
- Scalding hot water should sputter out of the pipe outlet

TURN ON THE WATER SUPPLY:
- Optionally, remove all the screens from your water faucets
- Optionally, shut off the water to your dishwasher to prevent clogging
- Optionally, remove the shower heads to prevent clogging
- I'm not sure what to remove yet to prevent your tub from clogging
- Open at least one hot-water faucet in the house to bleed out air
- Slowly open the main cold-water input to the house
- Open the new ball-valve cold-water input to the hot-water heater
- Check for leaks in the plumbing as the tank fills
- Place a pan or bowl at the T&P overflow tube & test the T&P valve

ATTACH THE NATURAL GAS INLET:
- Always connect the natural gas line as the very last step in this process
- Set the thermostat on the hot-water heater to the off position
- Coat male natural gas line threads with stick pipe dope (no teflon)
- Ensure the last two threads are not covered with any pipe dope
- Connect the new (yellow) natural gas flex pipe to the thermostat
- Turn on natural gas at the main switch (if it was turned off)
- Turn on natural gas at the local inlet to the water heater
- Test for leaks by toothbrushing a solution of dish detergent and water
- Read and carefully follow the manufacturer's lighting instructions

INSULATION:
- Wrap additional insulation around your hot-water heater, if desired
- Wrap insulation around your hot-water outlet pipe, if desired

DISPOSAL:
- Perform an autopsy on the old water heater by removing all plumbing
- Remove & inspect the 1 1/16 inch 3-foot 8-inch sacrificial anode
- Remove & inspect the T&P valve
- Call the local garbage or recycling to haul away the old water heater

Twice a year:
- Clint combusion-air lint screens (at the bottom inch of the water heater)
- Place a pan or bowl at the temperature & pressure valve overflow tube
- Test the T&P valve by flipping the lever as water violently sputters out
- Turn the natural gas to the PILOT setting (or shut it off completely)
- Leave the cold-water intake valve open at the top right of the heater
- Open at least one hot-water faucet on any level above the water heater
- Gently connect a garden hose to your hot water heater drain valve
- Route the open end of the garden hose where hot water won't damage things
- Open the lower drain valve to empty a few gallons of muddy hot water
- Shut the drain valve when that water runs clear (approx 10 gallons)
- Once every three years, remove the 1 1/16-inch sacrificial anode
- Replace the 3'8" sacrificial anode if corroded or calcium passivated
- To replace, bend the magnesium anode or replace with sausage links
- Turn the natural gas back on and ensure the burner is working properly

In article , "Donna Ohl, Grady Volunteer Coordinator" wrote:
Following is a idealized anatomy of a hot water heater replacement and
recommended maintenance performed, basically, on the Internet, in real
time, with the help of everyone here.

This procedure, which combines the best found on the Internet and which
takes into account *every* single of the hundreds of replies in this
newsgroup, is posted with the hope that the next amateur replacing their
natural gas galvanized pipe home hot water heater prints this out and
follows it to their delight and benefit!

A complete set of photos of every step below is available at
http://www.flickr.com/donnaohl

Here it is... this is an idealized version of my experience last week!

If you have old galvanized pipes, consider these preventive steps:
- Remove all debris screens from faucets, & tubs to prevent clogging
- Shut water to dishwaswher to prevent clogging of dishwasher screens
- Remove tub valves (I think) to prevent clogging of tubs

Remove the hot-water heater:
- Shut off the natural gas at the main gas meter (optional)
- Shut off the natural gas at the local hot-water heater (mandatory)
- Wait for the pilot light to go out to ensure no gas is left in the line
- Turn the thermostat on the hot-water heater to the off position
- Wait overnight, if possible, to allow the hot water in the tank to cool
- Or run 10 or 20 gallons of hot water in the house to dilute the tank
- You will be very glad you cooled the water in the tank: Trust me!
- Shut off the main household cold water (if replacing the gate valve)
- Shut the cold-water gate-valve right-side inlet to the hot-water heater
- Open at least one hot-water faucet in the house to drain off pressure
- Open the temperature and pressure valve as a safety measure (optional)
- Unscrew the cold-water inlet at the nipple at the top of the tank
- Unscrew the hot-water outlet at the nipple at the top of the tank
- Use two wrenches on flex connectors or they twist like a phone cord!
- Unscrew the natural gas inlet to the water-heater thermostat
- Cap the newly disconnected natural gas line to prevent contamination
- Connect a garden hose to the plastic hot-water-heater drain valve
- Open drain valve to drain hot water where it will not damage anything
- If 40/50 gallons doesn't come out something is clogged (very common)
- Shake and prod and push to get the water out (it happened to me)
- Otherwise you'll be moving a full tank which can tip (it happened to me)
- Disconnect garden hose and close drain valve when done (40 or 50 gallons)
- Unscrew the sheet-metal screw holding the vent pipe to the draft hood
- Separate the vent pipe from the draft hood (the hat on top middle)
- Unscrew sheet-metal screws holding gas-flue hat onto the vent pipe
- Separate the vent pipe from the gas-flue hat on top center of your heater
- Unscrew the seismic straps (if any) as the last thing before removal
- Remove old heater off the elevated base with two people and a handtruck
- Remove all water plumbing up to and including the old shut-off valve
- Remove all gas plumbing up to and including the old shut-off valve

Replace hot-water heater:
WHILE THE NEW TANK IS SITTING (DRY) ON THE GARAGE FLOOR:
- Remove the heater from the box by cutting the box completely open
- Replace the plastic drain valve with a brass ball valve (optional)
- Install the new temperature and pressure (T&P) relief valve (if needed)
- Note: The brass T&P relief valve may already be installed on your tank
- Install the cold water dialectric check-valve nipple (on the top right)
- Install the hot water dialectric ckeck-valve nipple (on the top left)
- Note: The 2 check-valve nipples may already be installed on your tank.
- Wrap three layers of teflon tape on each dialectric check-valve nipple
- Remember: Always use 2 wrenches when screwing & unscrewing pipe fittings!

MOUNT THE TANK & POSITION THE VENT AND HOOD:
- Mount and level the new hot water heater on the 18-inch elevated base
- Ensure at least six inches of clear space all around the new heater
- Hacksaw the old gas vent so that it fits the new larger water heater
- Ensure the gas vent aligns with the center of the hot-water heater
- Insert legs of the draft hood into the holes in the top of the heater
- Drill a 1/8 inch hole into the draft hood and 3-inch vent pipe
- Screw in at least 1 sheet-metal screw from the vent hood to the vent pipe

ATTACH THE COLD WATER INLET:
- Wrap Teflon tape on the threads of the fittings supplied with the tank
- Insert a blue heat-trap fitting (arrow down) into the cold-water inlet
- Ensure the last two threads are never covered with Teflon tape
- Look end-on through all fittings to ensure no Teflon tape overlap
- Do not use pipe dope on any threads where Teflon tape is noted below
- Screw the cold-water inlet male:male nipple into the top of the tank
- Wrap Teflon tape on the thread of the galvanized 3/4" water-inlet pipe
- Screw a dialectric union on the 3/4" galvanized cold-water inlet pipe
- Check for Teflon tape on the threads of each male:male brass nipple
- Screw the brass male:male nipple on the female:female dialectric union
- Screw a new ball-valve shutoff onto this vertical cold-water inlet pipe
- Wrap Teflon tape on the threads of another male:male brass nipple
- Screw this male:male nipple into the new ball-valve shutoff
- Screw the copper flex pipe onto the cold-water inlet brass nipples

ATTACH THE HOT WATER OUTLET:
- Wrap Teflon tape on the threads of the fittings supplied with the tank
- Ensure the last two threads are never covered with Teflon tape
- Do not use pipe dope on any threads where Teflon tape is noted below
- Insert a red heat-trap fitting (arrow up) into the tank hot-water outlet
- Wrap Teflon tape on the thread of the galvanized 3/4" water-outlet pipe
- Screw a dialectric union on the 3/4" galvanized hot-water outlet pipe
- Wrap Teflon tape on the threads of each male:male brass nipple
- Screw the brass male:male nipple on the female:female dialectric union
- Screw a new one-way check-valve onto this vertical hot-water outlet pipe
- Wrap Teflon tape on the threads of another male:male brass nipple
- Screw this male:male nipple into the new ball-valve shutoff
- Screw the copper flex pipe onto the hot-water inlet brass nipples
- Bend the copper flex pipe into an S shape to further inhibit heat loss

ATTACH THE T&P SAFETY PIPE:
- Screw on rigid high-temperature water pipe to the T&P valve
- The open outlet must be six inches (no more, no less) from the floor
- The open outlet must not be threaded; no valves or traps are allowed
- Place a bowl or bucket at the outlet of this open overflow pipe
- Test the T&P valve & plumbing by flipping the little aluminum lever
- Scalding hot water should sputter out of the pipe outlet

TURN ON THE WATER SUPPLY:
- Optionally, remove all the screens from your water faucets
- Optionally, shut off the water to your dishwasher to prevent clogging
- Optionally, remove the shower heads to prevent clogging
- I'm not sure what to remove yet to prevent your tub from clogging
- Open at least one hot-water faucet in the house to bleed out air
- Slowly open the main cold-water input to the house
- Open the new ball-valve cold-water input to the hot-water heater
- Check for leaks in the plumbing as the tank fills
- Place a pan or bowl at the T&P overflow tube & test the T&P valve

ATTACH THE NATURAL GAS INLET:
- Always connect the natural gas line as the very last step in this process
- Set the thermostat on the hot-water heater to the off position
- Coat male natural gas line threads with stick pipe dope (no teflon)
- Ensure the last two threads are not covered with any pipe dope
- Connect the new (yellow) natural gas flex pipe to the thermostat
- Turn on natural gas at the main switch (if it was turned off)
- Turn on natural gas at the local inlet to the water heater
- Test for leaks by toothbrushing a solution of dish detergent and water
- Read and carefully follow the manufacturer's lighting instructions

INSULATION:
- Wrap additional insulation around your hot-water heater, if desired
- Wrap insulation around your hot-water outlet pipe, if desired

DISPOSAL:
- Perform an autopsy on the old water heater by removing all plumbing
- Remove & inspect the 1 1/16 inch 3-foot 8-inch sacrificial anode
- Remove & inspect the T&P valve
- Call the local garbage or recycling to haul away the old water heater

Twice a year:
- Clint combusion-air lint screens (at the bottom inch of the water heater)
- Place a pan or bowl at the temperature & pressure valve overflow tube
- Test the T&P valve by flipping the lever as water violently sputters out
- Turn the natural gas to the PILOT setting (or shut it off completely)
- Leave the cold-water intake valve open at the top right of the heater
- Open at least one hot-water faucet on any level above the water heater
- Gently connect a garden hose to your hot water heater drain valve
- Route the open end of the garden hose where hot water won't damage things
- Open the lower drain valve to empty a few gallons of muddy hot water
- Shut the drain valve when that water runs clear (approx 10 gallons)
- Once every three years, remove the 1 1/16-inch sacrificial anode
- Replace the 3'8" sacrificial anode if corroded or calcium passivated
- To replace, bend the magnesium anode or replace with sausage links
- Turn the natural gas back on and ensure the burner is working properly


Insulation wrapping the hot water pipe, all the way to common fixtures is
desirable. Also wrap the cold water intake near the hot water heater.
It gets hot and looses heat when there is no inflow.

It especially desirable to better insulate the heater when its
not in the living area. Inside the living area, the loss is added to the room
temperature, and most of the year you need extra heat anyway.

greg

GregS wrote:

It especially desirable to better insulate the heater when its
not in the living area. Inside the living area, the loss is added to the room
temperature, and most of the year you need extra heat anyway.


Not in sunny Florida, where you run the AC almost year round.


--
Service to my country? Been there, Done that, and I've got my DD214 to
prove it.
Member of DAV #85.

Michael A. Terrell
Central Florida

In article , wrote:
GregS wrote:

It especially desirable to better insulate the heater when its
not in the living area. Inside the living area, the loss is added to the room
temperature, and most of the year you need extra heat anyway.


Not in sunny Florida, where you run the AC almost year round.

Are geothermal heat pumps becoming poplar there ?
I think I could have saved gas bills by using the underground pipes
and heat pump. My electricity is cheap.


greg

GregS wrote:

In article , wrote:
GregS wrote:

It especially desirable to better insulate the heater when its
not in the living area. Inside the living area, the loss is added to the room
temperature, and most of the year you need extra heat anyway.


Not in sunny Florida, where you run the AC almost year round.

Are geothermal heat pumps becoming poplar there ?
I think I could have saved gas bills by using the underground pipes
and heat pump. My electricity is cheap.

greg


Higher property taxes tend to wipe out any savings. I do know one
thing though: If this 'Global Warming' keeps up, I'll have to buy a
furnace.


--
My sig file can beat up your sig file!

even if you knew this would occur it would be impossible to completely
prevent or flush the junk.......

first not every valve can be opened, like the dishwasher

second the junk will be disturbed and contuue coming off to a lesser
degree for some time

and even if you open valves slowly it will still occur.

might be time to drain the new tank to get out what you can

On Feb 21, 2:48 pm, " wrote:
even if you knew this would occur it would be impossible to completely
prevent or flush the junk.......

Donna,
You forgot to add the hint about opening the outside water faucets!
Please add that to the tutorial!

On Thu 21 Feb 2008 15:01:43, Donna Ohl, Grady Volunteer Coordinator
wrote:

Following is a idealized anatomy of a hot water heater replacement
and recommended maintenance performed, basically, on the Internet,
in real time, with the help of everyone here.

This procedure, which combines the best found on the Internet and
which takes into account *every* single of the hundreds of replies
in this newsgroup, is posted with the hope that the next amateur
replacing their natural gas galvanized pipe home hot water heater
prints this out and follows it to their delight and benefit!

A complete set of photos of every step below is available at
http://www.flickr.com/donnaohl

Here it is... this is an idealized version of my experience last
week!

If you have old galvanized pipes, consider these preventive steps:
- Remove all debris screens from faucets, & tubs to prevent
clogging - Shut water to dishwaswher to prevent clogging of
dishwasher screens - Remove tub valves (I think) to prevent
clogging of tubs

Remove the hot-water heater:
- Shut off the natural gas at the main gas meter (optional)
- Shut off the natural gas at the local hot-water heater
(mandatory) - Wait for the pilot light to go out to ensure no gas
is left in the line - Turn the thermostat on the hot-water heater
to the off position - Wait overnight, if possible, to allow the hot
water in the tank to cool - Or run 10 or 20 gallons of hot water in
the house to dilute the tank - You will be very glad you cooled the
water in the tank: Trust me! - Shut off the main household cold
water (if replacing the gate valve) - Shut the cold-water
gate-valve right-side inlet to the hot-water heater - Open at least
one hot-water faucet in the house to drain off pressure - Open the
temperature and pressure valve as a safety measure (optional) -
Unscrew the cold-water inlet at the nipple at the top of the tank
- Unscrew the hot-water outlet at the nipple at the top of the tank
- Use two wrenches on flex connectors or they twist like a phone
cord! - Unscrew the natural gas inlet to the water-heater
thermostat - Cap the newly disconnected natural gas line to prevent
contamination - Connect a garden hose to the plastic
hot-water-heater drain valve - Open drain valve to drain hot water
where it will not damage anything - If 40/50 gallons doesn't come
out something is clogged (very common) - Shake and prod and push to
get the water out (it happened to me) - Otherwise you'll be moving
a full tank which can tip (it happened to me) - Disconnect garden
hose and close drain valve when done (40 or 50 gallons) - Unscrew
the sheet-metal screw holding the vent pipe to the draft hood -
Separate the vent pipe from the draft hood (the hat on top middle)
- Unscrew sheet-metal screws holding gas-flue hat onto the vent
pipe - Separate the vent pipe from the gas-flue hat on top center
of your heater - Unscrew the seismic straps (if any) as the last
thing before removal - Remove old heater off the elevated base with
two people and a handtruck - Remove all water plumbing up to and
including the old shut-off valve - Remove all gas plumbing up to
and including the old shut-off valve

Replace hot-water heater:
WHILE THE NEW TANK IS SITTING (DRY) ON THE GARAGE FLOOR:
- Remove the heater from the box by cutting the box completely
open - Replace the plastic drain valve with a brass ball valve
(optional) - Install the new temperature and pressure (T&P) relief
valve (if needed) - Note: The brass T&P relief valve may already be
installed on your tank - Install the cold water dialectric
check-valve nipple (on the top right) - Install the hot water
dialectric ckeck-valve nipple (on the top left) - Note: The 2
check-valve nipples may already be installed on your tank. - Wrap
three layers of teflon tape on each dialectric check-valve nipple
- Remember: Always use 2 wrenches when screwing & unscrewing pipe
fittings!

MOUNT THE TANK & POSITION THE VENT AND HOOD:
- Mount and level the new hot water heater on the 18-inch elevated
base - Ensure at least six inches of clear space all around the new
heater - Hacksaw the old gas vent so that it fits the new larger
water heater - Ensure the gas vent aligns with the center of the
hot-water heater - Insert legs of the draft hood into the holes in
the top of the heater - Drill a 1/8 inch hole into the draft hood
and 3-inch vent pipe - Screw in at least 1 sheet-metal screw from
the vent hood to the vent pipe

ATTACH THE COLD WATER INLET:
- Wrap Teflon tape on the threads of the fittings supplied with the
tank - Insert a blue heat-trap fitting (arrow down) into the
cold-water inlet - Ensure the last two threads are never covered
with Teflon tape - Look end-on through all fittings to ensure no
Teflon tape overlap - Do not use pipe dope on any threads where
Teflon tape is noted below - Screw the cold-water inlet male:male
nipple into the top of the tank - Wrap Teflon tape on the thread of
the galvanized 3/4" water-inlet pipe - Screw a dialectric union on
the 3/4" galvanized cold-water inlet pipe - Check for Teflon tape
on the threads of each male:male brass nipple - Screw the brass
male:male nipple on the female:female dialectric union - Screw a
new ball-valve shutoff onto this vertical cold-water inlet pipe -
Wrap Teflon tape on the threads of another male:male brass nipple
- Screw this male:male nipple into the new ball-valve shutoff
- Screw the copper flex pipe onto the cold-water inlet brass
nipples

ATTACH THE HOT WATER OUTLET:
- Wrap Teflon tape on the threads of the fittings supplied with the
tank - Ensure the last two threads are never covered with Teflon
tape - Do not use pipe dope on any threads where Teflon tape is
noted below - Insert a red heat-trap fitting (arrow up) into the
tank hot-water outlet - Wrap Teflon tape on the thread of the
galvanized 3/4" water-outlet pipe - Screw a dialectric union on the
3/4" galvanized hot-water outlet pipe - Wrap Teflon tape on the
threads of each male:male brass nipple - Screw the brass male:male
nipple on the female:female dialectric union - Screw a new one-way
check-valve onto this vertical hot-water outlet pipe - Wrap Teflon
tape on the threads of another male:male brass nipple - Screw this
male:male nipple into the new ball-valve shutoff - Screw the copper
flex pipe onto the hot-water inlet brass nipples - Bend the copper
flex pipe into an S shape to further inhibit heat loss

ATTACH THE T&P SAFETY PIPE:
- Screw on rigid high-temperature water pipe to the T&P valve
- The open outlet must be six inches (no more, no less) from the
floor - The open outlet must not be threaded; no valves or traps
are allowed - Place a bowl or bucket at the outlet of this open
overflow pipe - Test the T&P valve & plumbing by flipping the
little aluminum lever - Scalding hot water should sputter out of
the pipe outlet

TURN ON THE WATER SUPPLY:
- Optionally, remove all the screens from your water faucets
- Optionally, shut off the water to your dishwasher to prevent
clogging - Optionally, remove the shower heads to prevent clogging
- I'm not sure what to remove yet to prevent your tub from clogging
- Open at least one hot-water faucet in the house to bleed out air
- Slowly open the main cold-water input to the house
- Open the new ball-valve cold-water input to the hot-water heater
- Check for leaks in the plumbing as the tank fills
- Place a pan or bowl at the T&P overflow tube & test the T&P valve

ATTACH THE NATURAL GAS INLET:
- Always connect the natural gas line as the very last step in this
process - Set the thermostat on the hot-water heater to the off
position - Coat male natural gas line threads with stick pipe dope
(no teflon) - Ensure the last two threads are not covered with any
pipe dope - Connect the new (yellow) natural gas flex pipe to the
thermostat - Turn on natural gas at the main switch (if it was
turned off) - Turn on natural gas at the local inlet to the water
heater - Test for leaks by toothbrushing a solution of dish
detergent and water - Read and carefully follow the manufacturer's
lighting instructions

INSULATION:
- Wrap additional insulation around your hot-water heater, if
desired - Wrap insulation around your hot-water outlet pipe, if
desired

DISPOSAL:
- Perform an autopsy on the old water heater by removing all
plumbing - Remove & inspect the 1 1/16 inch 3-foot 8-inch
sacrificial anode - Remove & inspect the T&P valve
- Call the local garbage or recycling to haul away the old water
heater

Twice a year:
- Clint combusion-air lint screens (at the bottom inch of the water
heater) - Place a pan or bowl at the temperature & pressure valve
overflow tube - Test the T&P valve by flipping the lever as water
violently sputters out - Turn the natural gas to the PILOT setting
(or shut it off completely) - Leave the cold-water intake valve
open at the top right of the heater - Open at least one hot-water
faucet on any level above the water heater - Gently connect a
garden hose to your hot water heater drain valve - Route the open
end of the garden hose where hot water won't damage things - Open
the lower drain valve to empty a few gallons of muddy hot water -
Shut the drain valve when that water runs clear (approx 10 gallons)
- Once every three years, remove the 1 1/16-inch sacrificial anode
- Replace the 3'8" sacrificial anode if corroded or calcium
passivated - To replace, bend the magnesium anode or replace with
sausage links - Turn the natural gas back on and ensure the burner
is working properly


Donna, do you think the other people who have posted to help you
actually suspect what is going on? :-)

Some must have realized it by now. Do you think they are just
keeping quiet?

On Feb 27, 4:56 pm, John wrote:

Donna, do you think the other people who have posted to help you
actually suspect what is going on? :-)

Some must have realized ...


Maybe, maybe not...but John, you're quite late with this post. Please
do try to keep up. Bill does.

You were right! It was the crud in the solonoid (plus a frozen motor)!

Thanks to everyone here, I was able to fix the dishwasher clog caused by
all the debris that came out of the water heater repair. Complete pictures,
as always, are posted.

For example, so the next person benefits, please see the updated pictures
of the tremendous amount of dishwasher sand in the mesh filter cup inside
the blue "solonoid" at the bottom left of the GE Nautilus dishwasher.See
http://www.flickr.com/photos/donnaohl

At first, I checked and cleaned the "air gap" as many recommended (this
caused a flood as the airgap had a plug of its own that I forgot to put
back once I got the dishwasher working). Without that cap on the air gap,
water shoots up six inches all over the countertop as shown in the photos I
uploaded so the next person benefits.

As for teh solonoid, I unplugged the power and removed the four 8mm screws
holding the blue solonoid together and water splashed all over the place,
this time on the floor as the water supply must be turned off. I got the
camera all wet trying to take a shot of THAT fiasco for you boys!

Nonetheless, I did take a good shot of the horribly clogged mesh filter
that was inside the solonoid. This wasn't the only culprit though. The
motor in the middle on the bottom wouldn't start. I guess it has been
turned off for so long it froze shut. I had to oil it and cajole it into
spinning with a screwdriver but it finally worked and now the dishwasher
has gone through two cycles and it seems to be repaired.

Thank God 'cuz I can't figure out how to remove it from the kitchen (see
the photos of the screws that were holding it in that are tiled over on the
top so they will never come out). Who builds these things that way anyway?

Donna

"Donna Ohl" wrote in message
et...
You were right! It was the crud in the solonoid (plus a frozen motor)!

Thanks to everyone here, I was able to fix the dishwasher clog caused by
all the debris that came out of the water heater repair. Complete
pictures,
as always, are posted.

For example, so the next person benefits, please see the updated pictures
of the tremendous amount of dishwasher sand in the mesh filter cup inside
the blue "solonoid" at the bottom left of the GE Nautilus dishwasher.See
http://www.flickr.com/photos/donnaohl

At first, I checked and cleaned the "air gap" as many recommended (this
caused a flood as the airgap had a plug of its own that I forgot to put
back once I got the dishwasher working). Without that cap on the air gap,
water shoots up six inches all over the countertop as shown in the photos
I
uploaded so the next person benefits.

As for teh solonoid, I unplugged the power and removed the four 8mm screws
holding the blue solonoid together and water splashed all over the place,
this time on the floor as the water supply must be turned off. I got the
camera all wet trying to take a shot of THAT fiasco for you boys!

Nonetheless, I did take a good shot of the horribly clogged mesh filter
that was inside the solonoid. This wasn't the only culprit though. The
motor in the middle on the bottom wouldn't start. I guess it has been
turned off for so long it froze shut. I had to oil it and cajole it into
spinning with a screwdriver but it finally worked and now the dishwasher
has gone through two cycles and it seems to be repaired.

Thank God 'cuz I can't figure out how to remove it from the kitchen (see
the photos of the screws that were holding it in that are tiled over on
the
top so they will never come out). Who builds these things that way anyway?

Donna


It's always nice when someone can figure this stuff out and posted advice is
useful. It's a change from the common response of "I'll just buy a new one".

On Sun, 16 Mar 2008 18:05:36 GMT, James Sweet wrote:

It's always nice when someone can figure this stuff out and posted
advice is useful. It's a change from the common response of "I'll
just buy a new one".

Or, all too often, there's no response at all. Then none of the
advisors know how it turned out, and the archives offer nothing for the
next feller that comes along with the same or nearly identical problem.

Jonesy
--
Marvin L Jones | jonz | W3DHJ | linux
38.24N 104.55W | @ config.com | Jonesy | OS/2
*** Killfiling google posts: http://jonz.net/ng.htm

On Sun, 16 Mar 2008 18:05:36 GMT, James Sweet wrote:

It's always nice when someone can figure this stuff out and posted advice is
useful. It's a change from the common response of "I'll just buy a new one".

Hi James,

Thanks. I go to a lot of trouble to respond and to take pictures and to
post what happened, even with my mistakes (like not knowing the water would
shoot all over the place in the air gap or solonoid!).
http://www.flickr.com/photos/donnaohl/2337210324/

The amount of sand in the water was astoundingly large!
http://www.flickr.com/photos/donnaohl/2337210334/

I would think we should probably clean these things out every year or so if
it weren't such a pain to put the solonoid back together. The six bolts to
remove it are easy enough to remove but to put it all back together with
the rubber gasket and wire mesh screen is a pain. I accidentally let the
screen fall out and ended up having to remove it a second time after
testing that it worked.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/donnaohl/2337214312/

I would never have had the courage to try this unless you guys had advised
me so I really hope that this will help the next person who reads this.

The two things I have left a
- How to repair the rusted white wires inside the dishwasher that got
rusted while it sat with bleach in it (to kill the mold) for the past few
weeks. http://www.flickr.com/photos/donnaohl/2337210340/

- How to unclog the bathtub where I can't figure out WHERE the filter is!
http://www.flickr.com/photos/donnaohl/2279157295/

Donna

On 16 Mar 2008 19:05:38 GMT, Allodoxaphobia wrote:

Or, all too often, there's no response at all. Then none of the
advisors know how it turned out, and the archives offer nothing for the
next feller that comes along with the same or nearly identical problem.

Hi Jonesy,

You just wait! A coworker of mine said he was gonna fill his welding tanks
with oxyaceteline and cut apart my old water heater so we could see exactly
what it looked like inside!

I can't wait to snap the pictures.

Right now, all we have are the anode and safety valve autopsies
http://www.flickr.com/photos/donnaoh...7603933515835/
but it's gonna be great to see inside the water heater for the first time!
http://www.flickr.com/photos/donnaoh...7603933515835/

Donna

On Sun, 16 Mar 2008 16:05:47 -0700, Donna Ohl wrote:
On 16 Mar 2008 19:05:38 GMT, Allodoxaphobia wrote:

Or, all too often, there's no response at all. Then none of the
advisors know how it turned out, and the archives offer nothing for the
next feller that comes along with the same or nearly identical problem.

Hi Jonesy,

You just wait! A coworker of mine said he was gonna fill his welding tanks
with oxyaceteline and cut apart my old water heater so we could see exactly
what it looked like inside!

I can't wait to snap the pictures.

Yes. Massive lime/calcium deposits, I'd hazard to guess.
Or, are you on a well? I don't remember that comment up-thread.
In that case it probably would be sand.

You might want to install a water softener ahead of the H/W heater --
_just_ to serve the H/W side of the system.

I did that in the previous house for use with a solar H/W system that
was in-line ahead of the existing domestic gas H/W heater. Both the
(then) existing 50 gal. gas H/W heater and the 80 gal. solar H/W tank
lasted over 25 years -- and they may still be going strong, FAIK.

(Of course the gas H/W heater did not run much, so it's tank did
not get 'cooked' that often by the gas flame.)

Jonesy
--
Marvin L Jones | jonz | W3DHJ | linux
38.24N 104.55W | @ config.com | Jonesy | OS/2
*** Killfiling google posts: http://jonz.net/ng.htm

"Donna Ohl" wrote in message news:4FhDj.65364
- How to unclog the bathtub where I can't figure out WHERE the filter is!
http://www.flickr.com/photos/donnaohl/2279157295/

Ther's probably a passage in the valve plugged. Shut off all water to the
shower, and disassemble the valve, them flush it out by briefly turning the
water back on, with appropriate precautions.

On Mar 21, 1:07�am, "Bob F" wrote:
"Donna Ohl" wrote in message news:4FhDj.65364
- How to unclog the bathtub where I can't figure out WHERE the filter is!
http://www.flickr.com/photos/donnaohl/2279157295/

Ther's probably a passage in the valve plugged. Shut off all water to the
shower, and disassemble the valve, them flush it out by briefly turning the
water back on, with appropriate precautions.

if you try this dont use the main houses valve, i did once it wouldnt
shut off and flooded the basement by the time the water company got
things turned off.......

wrote in message
...
On Mar 21, 1:07?am, "Bob F" wrote:
"Donna Ohl" wrote in message news:4FhDj.65364
- How to unclog the bathtub where I can't figure out WHERE the filter is!
http://www.flickr.com/photos/donnaohl/2279157295/

Ther's probably a passage in the valve plugged. Shut off all water to the
shower, and disassemble the valve, them flush it out by briefly turning the
water back on, with appropriate precautions.

if you try this dont use the main houses valve, i did once it wouldnt
shut off and flooded the basement by the time the water company got
things turned off.......

************************************************** ********

You could test it first.

shower, and disassemble the valve, them flush it out by briefly turning the
water back on, with appropriate precautions.

if you try this dont use the main houses valve, i did once it wouldnt
shut off and flooded the basement by the time the water company got
things turned off.......

************************************************** ********

You could test it first.

a old valve that works fine can fail under a high unlimited flow
situation, i learned this the hard way