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Electronics Repair (sci.electronics.repair) Discussion of repairing electronic equipment. Topics include requests for assistance, where to obtain servicing information and parts, techniques for diagnosis and repair, and annecdotes about success, failures and problems. |
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#1
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These are 40W Wagner 795 halogen bulbs used in an automotive light
bar. They failed prematurely. We were very careful installing them that they were never touched by hand. So I have some questions: 1. Why is it that touching halogen bulbs can decrease their life? This is a sealed bulb. 2. Should we clean them with 99% isopropyl before installing them? 3. Does anyone have any ideas as to why these failed prematurely? Thanks, Lenny. |
#2
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![]() wrote in message ... These are 40W Wagner 795 halogen bulbs used in an automotive light bar. They failed prematurely. We were very careful installing them that they were never touched by hand. So I have some questions: 1. Why is it that touching halogen bulbs can decrease their life? This is a sealed bulb. 2. Should we clean them with 99% isopropyl before installing them? 3. Does anyone have any ideas as to why these failed prematurely? http://www.cast-lighting.com/art-lamp-burnout.html |
#3
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![]() wrote in message ... These are 40W Wagner 795 halogen bulbs used in an automotive light bar. They failed prematurely. We were very careful installing them that they were never touched by hand. So I have some questions: 1. Why is it that touching halogen bulbs can decrease their life? This is a sealed bulb. 2. Should we clean them with 99% isopropyl before installing them? 3. Does anyone have any ideas as to why these failed prematurely? Thanks, Lenny. Finger oils can burn and darken, creating a hot spot on the quartz. Yes cleaning them would be a good idea. How prematurely? Lots of things can cause early failure. Defective manufacturing, poor handling, excessive vibration, excessive voltage, etc. |
#4
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James Sweet wrote:
How prematurely? Lots of things can cause early failure. Defective manufacturing, poor handling, excessive vibration, excessive voltage, etc. Remember also that low voltages cause a reduced life span as well. If they don't run hot enough for the tungsten molecules not to re-deposit onto the main filament, they may deposit on the inside of the bulb as per with normal incandescent lamps. It won't kill it quickly, but will have a significant effect on the life. -- Linux Registered User # 302622 http://counter.li.org |
#5
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![]() wrote in message ... These are 40W Wagner 795 halogen bulbs used in an automotive light bar. They failed prematurely. We were very careful installing them that they were never touched by hand. So I have some questions: 1. Why is it that touching halogen bulbs can decrease their life? This is a sealed bulb. 2. Should we clean them with 99% isopropyl before installing them? 3. Does anyone have any ideas as to why these failed prematurely? Thanks, Lenny. They got burn out quickly because their over-work, Check its resistance. Halogen has 0.4 ohm(=load) as supposed to 0.6 ohm=regular bulb. Remember bulb are designed for 12V not good for above 14V - 15V. If your regulator Fuse was removed, your Alternator output may not be regulated down to 14, you may have 15V instead of 14. This would kill the bulb quickly in 1-2 weeks. I had the same problem because my new alternator produce 14.4V, the solution is to use regular light bulb. |
#6
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#7
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![]() "Jakthehammer" wrote in message ... wrote in message ... These are 40W Wagner 795 halogen bulbs used in an automotive light bar. They failed prematurely. We were very careful installing them that they were never touched by hand. So I have some questions: 1. Why is it that touching halogen bulbs can decrease their life? This is a sealed bulb. 2. Should we clean them with 99% isopropyl before installing them? 3. Does anyone have any ideas as to why these failed prematurely? Thanks, Lenny. They got burn out quickly because their over-work, Check its resistance. Halogen has 0.4 ohm(=load) as supposed to 0.6 ohm=regular bulb. Remember bulb are designed for 12V not good for above 14V - 15V. If your regulator Fuse was removed, your Alternator output may not be regulated down to 14, you may have 15V instead of 14. This would kill the bulb quickly in 1-2 weeks. I had the same problem because my new alternator produce 14.4V, the solution is to use regular light bulb. Huh? |
#8
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"James Sweet" writes:
wrote in message ... These are 40W Wagner 795 halogen bulbs used in an automotive light bar. They failed prematurely. We were very careful installing them How did they fail? that they were never touched by hand. So I have some questions: 1. Why is it that touching halogen bulbs can decrease their life? This is a sealed bulb. 2. Should we clean them with 99% isopropyl before installing them? 3. Does anyone have any ideas as to why these failed prematurely? Thanks, Lenny. Finger oils can burn and darken, creating a hot spot on the quartz. Yes cleaning them would be a good idea. How prematurely? Lots of things can cause early failure. Defective manufacturing, poor handling, excessive vibration, excessive voltage, etc. Also, there's a range below spec'd power where life will be reduced since it's not hot enough for the halogen cycle to work properly. --- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/ Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/ +Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/lasersam.htm | Mirror Sites: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_mirror.html Important: Anything sent to the email address in the message header above is ignored unless my full name AND either lasers or electronics is included in the subject line. Or, you can contact me via the Feedback Form in the FAQs. |
#9
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On Sat, 09 Feb 2008 05:45:25 GMT, "James Sweet"
wrote: "Jakthehammer" wrote in message ... wrote in message ... These are 40W Wagner 795 halogen bulbs used in an automotive light bar. They failed prematurely. We were very careful installing them that they were never touched by hand. So I have some questions: 1. Why is it that touching halogen bulbs can decrease their life? This is a sealed bulb. 2. Should we clean them with 99% isopropyl before installing them? 3. Does anyone have any ideas as to why these failed prematurely? Thanks, Lenny. They got burn out quickly because their over-work, Check its resistance. Halogen has 0.4 ohm(=load) as supposed to 0.6 ohm=regular bulb. Remember bulb are designed for 12V not good for above 14V - 15V. If your regulator Fuse was removed, your Alternator output may not be regulated down to 14, you may have 15V instead of 14. This would kill the bulb quickly in 1-2 weeks. I had the same problem because my new alternator produce 14.4V, the solution is to use regular light bulb. Huh? g Me thinks he missed the true solution, which would be to get an alternator that worked correctly! Of course who knows where the automotive angle came in. |
#10
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![]() "James Sweet" wrote in message news:V5brj.416$CX2.47@trndny09... "Jakthehammer" wrote in message ... wrote in message ... These are 40W Wagner 795 halogen bulbs used in an automotive light bar. They failed prematurely. We were very careful installing them that they were never touched by hand. So I have some questions: 1. Why is it that touching halogen bulbs can decrease their life? This is a sealed bulb. 2. Should we clean them with 99% isopropyl before installing them? 3. Does anyone have any ideas as to why these failed prematurely? Thanks, Lenny. They got burn out quickly because their over-work, Check its resistance. Halogen has 0.4 ohm(=load) as supposed to 0.6 ohm=regular bulb. Remember bulb are designed for 12V not good for above 14V - 15V. If your regulator Fuse was removed, your Alternator output may not be regulated down to 14, you may have 15V instead of 14. This would kill the bulb quickly in 1-2 weeks. I had the same problem because my new alternator produce 14.4V, the solution is to use regular light bulb. Huh? Huh? Plug a meter in a cigarette lighter, make it solid, drive your car, and the truth will reveal itself on the meter. |
#11
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Jakthehammer wrote:
"James Sweet" wrote in message news:V5brj.416$CX2.47@trndny09... "Jakthehammer" wrote in message ... wrote in message ... These are 40W Wagner 795 halogen bulbs used in an automotive light bar. They failed prematurely. We were very careful installing them that they were never touched by hand. So I have some questions: 1. Why is it that touching halogen bulbs can decrease their life? This is a sealed bulb. 2. Should we clean them with 99% isopropyl before installing them? 3. Does anyone have any ideas as to why these failed prematurely? Thanks, Lenny. They got burn out quickly because their over-work, Check its resistance. Halogen has 0.4 ohm(=load) as supposed to 0.6 ohm=regular bulb. Remember bulb are designed for 12V not good for above 14V - 15V. If your regulator Fuse was removed, your Alternator output may not be regulated down to 14, you may have 15V instead of 14. This would kill the bulb quickly in 1-2 weeks. I had the same problem because my new alternator produce 14.4V, the solution is to use regular light bulb. Huh? Huh? Plug a meter in a cigarette lighter, make it solid, drive your car, and the truth will reveal itself on the meter. That would assume that *all* the bulbs on the vehicle were failing prematurely. Since the OP seems only concerned about this particular one, the odds are pretty small that the alternator is at fault. The particular lamp to which he refers only has a 200 hour life under average conditions, which presumably is not the case here. jak |
#12
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![]() "Jakthehammer" wrote in message ... "James Sweet" wrote in message news:V5brj.416$CX2.47@trndny09... "Jakthehammer" wrote in message ... wrote in message ... These are 40W Wagner 795 halogen bulbs used in an automotive light bar. They failed prematurely. We were very careful installing them that they were never touched by hand. So I have some questions: 1. Why is it that touching halogen bulbs can decrease their life? This is a sealed bulb. 2. Should we clean them with 99% isopropyl before installing them? 3. Does anyone have any ideas as to why these failed prematurely? Thanks, Lenny. They got burn out quickly because their over-work, Check its resistance. Halogen has 0.4 ohm(=load) as supposed to 0.6 ohm=regular bulb. Remember bulb are designed for 12V not good for above 14V - 15V. If your regulator Fuse was removed, your Alternator output may not be regulated down to 14, you may have 15V instead of 14. This would kill the bulb quickly in 1-2 weeks. I had the same problem because my new alternator produce 14.4V, the solution is to use regular light bulb. Huh? Huh? Plug a meter in a cigarette lighter, make it solid, drive your car, and the truth will reveal itself on the meter. I'm not the OP, but 0.6 Ohm sounds like the cold filament resistance, which has little to do with the load of the bulb. If it was really .6 Ohm it would be over 300W. If halogen bulbs are failing, regular bulbs should fail just as quick. |
#13
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James Sweet wrote:
"Jakthehammer" wrote in message ... "James Sweet" wrote in message news:V5brj.416$CX2.47@trndny09... "Jakthehammer" wrote in message ... wrote in message ... These are 40W Wagner 795 halogen bulbs used in an automotive light bar. They failed prematurely. We were very careful installing them that they were never touched by hand. So I have some questions: 1. Why is it that touching halogen bulbs can decrease their life? This is a sealed bulb. 2. Should we clean them with 99% isopropyl before installing them? 3. Does anyone have any ideas as to why these failed prematurely? Thanks, Lenny. They got burn out quickly because their over-work, Check its resistance. Halogen has 0.4 ohm(=load) as supposed to 0.6 ohm=regular bulb. Remember bulb are designed for 12V not good for above 14V - 15V. If your regulator Fuse was removed, your Alternator output may not be regulated down to 14, you may have 15V instead of 14. This would kill the bulb quickly in 1-2 weeks. I had the same problem because my new alternator produce 14.4V, the solution is to use regular light bulb. Huh? Huh? Plug a meter in a cigarette lighter, make it solid, drive your car, and the truth will reveal itself on the meter. I'm not the OP, but 0.6 Ohm sounds like the cold filament resistance, which has little to do with the load of the bulb. If it was really .6 Ohm it would be over 300W. If halogen bulbs are failing, regular bulbs should fail just as quick. Provided a link to the specs. It's a 50 watt bulb. The OP hasn't chimed back in. This thread is dead AFAIC. jak |
#14
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On Feb 9, 10:05*pm, jakdedert wrote:
James Sweet wrote: "Jakthehammer" wrote in message ... "James Sweet" wrote in message news:V5brj.416$CX2.47@trndny09... "Jakthehammer" wrote in message ... wrote in message .... These are 40W Wagner 795 halogen bulbs used in an automotive light bar. They failed prematurely. We were very careful installing them that they were never touched by hand. So I have some questions: 1. Why is it that touching halogen bulbs can decrease their life? This is a sealed bulb. 2. Should we clean them with 99% isopropyl before installing them? 3. Does anyone have any ideas as to why these failed prematurely? Thanks, Lenny. They got burn out quickly because their over-work, Check its resistance. Halogen has 0.4 ohm(=load) as supposed to 0.6 ohm=regular bulb. Remember bulb are designed for 12V not good for above 14V - 15V. *If your regulator Fuse was removed, your Alternator output may not be regulated down to 14, you may have 15V instead of 14. *This would kill the bulb quickly in 1-2 weeks. *I had the same problem because my new alternator produce 14..4V, the solution is to use regular light bulb. Huh? Huh? Plug a meter in a cigarette lighter, make it solid, drive your car, and the truth will reveal itself on the meter. I'm not the OP, but 0.6 Ohm sounds like the cold filament resistance, which has little to do with the load of the bulb. If it was really .6 Ohm it would be over 300W. If halogen bulbs are failing, regular bulbs should fail just as quick. Provided a link to the specs. *It's a 50 watt bulb. *The OP hasn't chimed back in. *This thread is dead AFAIC. jak- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Sorry that I haven't gotten back to the group on this. It seems that there are two of these bulbs operated in a VERTICAL position in the light bar. I don't understand the theory behind the horizontal recommendation but perhaps thats the cause of the problem. Perhaps I should chaulk it up to a poor design and just replace them with a couple of standard tungsten bulbs.Lenny. |
#15
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I'm beginning to think my premature headlight failures are due to a less
than 100% good electrical connection at the bulb, as I noticed with the last failure that the connection seemed a little loose. (I've done all the obvious checks and handling precautions and still go through H7 bulbs like popcorn). This time I put some electrical conductive greese on the spade lugs before plugging the light in and its been working fine for a while now...time will tell. Dan wrote in message ... These are 40W Wagner 795 halogen bulbs used in an automotive light bar. They failed prematurely. We were very careful installing them that they were never touched by hand. So I have some questions: 1. Why is it that touching halogen bulbs can decrease their life? This is a sealed bulb. 2. Should we clean them with 99% isopropyl before installing them? 3. Does anyone have any ideas as to why these failed prematurely? Thanks, Lenny. |
#16
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![]() "Jimmie D" wrote in message ... "Dan K" wrote in message ... I'm beginning to think my premature headlight failures are due to a less than 100% good electrical connection at the bulb, as I noticed with the last failure that the connection seemed a little loose. (I've done all the obvious checks and handling precautions and still go through H7 bulbs like popcorn). This time I put some electrical conductive greese on the spade lugs before plugging the light in and its been working fine for a while now...time will tell. Dan For years now I use Deoxit to clean the socket then apply DC-4 grease when I replace the bulb. This seems to be especially benifical on my camper and boat trailer lights and trailer connections. Jimmie Also, any loss of proper return, I.E. Negative Ground, in the vehicle electrical system associated with the lighting and charging system may effect not only the lifetime of your lamps bus also any other electrical component within the vehicle. Something as simple as a frayed or missing ground strap from the engine block to the chassis, or from the negative battery terminal to the chassis may affect the situation. The suggestion of through cleaning the socket and applying the proper grease is a very good idea. Also confirm the weather seals around the lamp sockets are intact. |
#17
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I'm beginning to think my premature headlight failures are due
to a less than 100% good electrical connection at the bulb... Halogen lamps are sensitive to reduced voltage, because they have to run at full temperature for the halogen cycle to work. For this reason, you should never only slightly dim a halogen lamp. Either run it at full, or dim it a lot. |
#18
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William Sommerwerck wrote:
I'm beginning to think my premature headlight failures are due to a less than 100% good electrical connection at the bulb... Halogen lamps are sensitive to reduced voltage, because they have to run at full temperature for the halogen cycle to work. For this reason, you should never only slightly dim a halogen lamp. Either run it at full, or dim it a lot. I say, that`s rather a generalisation. Many halogen lamps are designed to be run at any precentage, theatre lighting for example. Ron(UK) |
#19
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William Sommerwerck wrote:
I'm beginning to think my premature headlight failures are due to a less than 100% good electrical connection at the bulb... Halogen lamps are sensitive to reduced voltage, because they have to run at full temperature for the halogen cycle to work. For this reason, you should never only slightly dim a halogen lamp. Either run it at full, or dim it a lot. I prefer to be the master of my lighting. If that means changing a bulb occasionally, so be it. -- The e-mail address in our reply-to line is reversed in an attempt to minimize spam. Our true address is of the form . |
#20
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![]() "Ron(UK)" wrote in message ... William Sommerwerck wrote: I'm beginning to think my premature headlight failures are due to a less than 100% good electrical connection at the bulb... Halogen lamps are sensitive to reduced voltage, because they have to run at full temperature for the halogen cycle to work. For this reason, you should never only slightly dim a halogen lamp. Either run it at full, or dim it a lot. I say, that`s rather a generalisation. Many halogen lamps are designed to be run at any precentage, theatre lighting for example. Aren't they only rated a few tens to a few hundred hours too? |
#21
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James Sweet wrote:
"Ron(UK)" wrote in message ... William Sommerwerck wrote: I'm beginning to think my premature headlight failures are due to a less than 100% good electrical connection at the bulb... Halogen lamps are sensitive to reduced voltage, because they have to run at full temperature for the halogen cycle to work. For this reason, you should never only slightly dim a halogen lamp. Either run it at full, or dim it a lot. I say, that`s rather a generalisation. Many halogen lamps are designed to be run at any precentage, theatre lighting for example. Aren't they only rated a few tens to a few hundred hours too? Absolutely not, I have lamps which have been in regular service for over 10 years. HPL575 in source Four fittings, never changed since commissioned. The long life version of the lamp is rated between 1500 and 2000 hours. On the other hand, the lamps which do fail regularly tend to be in the same few lanterns. This I put down to poor connection betwixt the lamp pins and the sockets. Ron(UK) |
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