For tying up mains leads on equipment, tight to the back of the chassis - is
the knotting process described anywhere on the www ?


--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/

In article ,
N Cook wrote:
For tying up mains leads on equipment, tight to the back of the chassis
- is the knotting process described anywhere on the www ?

Do you mean loom binding using waxed thread?

--
*Fax is stronger than fiction *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

In article ,
N Cook wrote:
For tying up mains leads on equipment, tight to the back of the chassis
- is the knotting process described anywhere on the www ?


--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/


BTW, your sig sep ain't correct.

--
*Why is a boxing ring square?

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message
--
*Why is a boxing ring square?
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -



and why is cargo send by ship and shipments by car/truck?

and why do you park on driveways and drive on parkways?

"Sofie" wrote in message
...
"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message
--

and why do you park on driveways and drive on parkways?


Depending on where you live, this actually makes "some" sense. You "can"
manuever in your driveway - but when you go out onto at least "some"
parkways - they're so jammed - they're more like parking lots.

N Cook wrote:
For tying up mains leads on equipment, tight to the back of the chassis - is
the knotting process described anywhere on the www ?


It`s called a rubber band

Presuming you mean to get rid of excess length of cable when the gear is
installed. Don,t coil the cable, zigzag it.

Ron(UK)

Ron(UK) wrote:

Presuming you mean to get rid of excess length of cable when the gear is
installed. Don,t coil the cable, zigzag it.

I think what he means is something I was taught in electric shop in junior
high school (1967?) called an electrician's knot.

Here's a drawing of it:

http://www.mtechnologies.com/building/3-fig3.jpg

and a description:
http://www.mtechnologies.com/building/atoz3.htm

I've often cheated in places where the cable was already run and did not
want to cut it to tie the knot by taking a large nylon cable tie (aka
Tie-Wrap) and placing it around the wire inside the unit. Be sure
to leave some slack so that if the wire is pulled it stresses the
cable tie, not the wire.

Geoff.

You are right about coiling the wire, it will create a magnetic field.
The one exception to that rule is coax, it can be coiled.





--
Geoffrey S. Mendelson, Jerusalem, Israel N3OWJ/4X1GM
IL Voice: (07)-7424-1667 Fax ONLY: 972-2-648-1443 U.S. Voice: 1-215-821-1838
Visit my 'blog at http://geoffstechno.livejournal.com/

Geoffrey S. Mendelson wrote:
Ron(UK) wrote:

Presuming you mean to get rid of excess length of cable when the gear is
installed. Don,t coil the cable, zigzag it.

I think what he means is something I was taught in electric shop in junior
high school (1967?) called an electrician's knot.

Here's a drawing of it:

http://www.mtechnologies.com/building/3-fig3.jpg

and a description:
http://www.mtechnologies.com/building/atoz3.htm

I've often cheated in places where the cable was already run and did not
want to cut it to tie the knot by taking a large nylon cable tie (aka
Tie-Wrap) and placing it around the wire inside the unit. Be sure
to leave some slack so that if the wire is pulled it stresses the
cable tie, not the wire.




If the OP meant to tie up the mains cable when transporting an item of
equipment, say a vcr or tv, then the usual way is to coil a good portion
of the cable closest to the appliance, then squeeze the coils together
and wind the rest of the cable around that so that it resembles a
hangmans noose. Then the outer loop of one coil is passed over the plug
top to secure it.

Or you could use a rubber band.


You are right about coiling the wire, it will create a magnetic field.
The one exception to that rule is coax, it can be coiled.


Careful now...



Ron(UK)

Ron(UK) wrote:
If the OP meant to tie up the mains cable when transporting an item of
equipment, say a vcr or tv, then the usual way is to coil a good portion
of the cable closest to the appliance, then squeeze the coils together
and wind the rest of the cable around that so that it resembles a
hangmans noose. Then the outer loop of one coil is passed over the plug
top to secure it.

That's the easiest way. I found that for items I do this with often,
such as a laptop power cord, the best thing are nylon strips with velcro
on them sold for lacing computer cables.

Geoff.
--
Geoffrey S. Mendelson, Jerusalem, Israel N3OWJ/4X1GM
IL Voice: (07)-7424-1667 Fax ONLY: 972-2-648-1443 U.S. Voice: 1-215-821-1838
Visit my 'blog at http://geoffstechno.livejournal.com/

Geoffrey S. Mendelson wrote in message
...
Ron(UK) wrote:

Presuming you mean to get rid of excess length of cable when the gear is
installed. Don,t coil the cable, zigzag it.

I think what he means is something I was taught in electric shop in junior
high school (1967?) called an electrician's knot.

Here's a drawing of it:

http://www.mtechnologies.com/building/3-fig3.jpg

and a description:
http://www.mtechnologies.com/building/atoz3.htm

I've often cheated in places where the cable was already run and did not
want to cut it to tie the knot by taking a large nylon cable tie (aka
Tie-Wrap) and placing it around the wire inside the unit. Be sure
to leave some slack so that if the wire is pulled it stresses the
cable tie, not the wire.

Geoff.

You are right about coiling the wire, it will create a magnetic field.
The one exception to that rule is coax, it can be coiled.





--
Geoffrey S. Mendelson, Jerusalem, Israel N3OWJ/4X1GM
IL Voice: (07)-7424-1667 Fax ONLY: 972-2-648-1443 U.S. Voice:
1-215-821-1838
Visit my 'blog at http://geoffstechno.livejournal.com/

Not that one.
For storing or just shelving unused equipment , so the mains cable was not
trailling about and no need for ties of any sort. All the cable is taken up
into the hank/knot leaving just the mains plug exposed and all tight up
against the back of the chassis.
The person who showed me years ago how to do it , went overboard.
It used to annoy me that the bunching was so close to the chassis and
bunched so tight you needed a screwdriver to open up the knot and there was
always a tight spiral of cable for 6 or so turns when undone that stayed
like that. I've long since forgotten how to do it.
I invented my own that did not deform the cable so much and easily undone
by myself or customers, but you cannot form it right up close to the
chassis.

--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/

In article ,
N Cook wrote:
Not that one. For storing or just shelving unused equipment , so the
mains cable was not trailling about and no need for ties of any sort.
All the cable is taken up into the hank/knot leaving just the mains plug
exposed and all tight up against the back of the chassis.

Ah - know what you mean now. Those old enough to remember rope washing
lines will remember they came like that too.

But plastic cable ties weren't around then. ;-)

--
*We are born naked, wet, and hungry. Then things get worse.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Dave Plowman (News) wrote in message
...
In article ,
N Cook wrote:
Not that one. For storing or just shelving unused equipment , so the
mains cable was not trailling about and no need for ties of any sort.
All the cable is taken up into the hank/knot leaving just the mains plug
exposed and all tight up against the back of the chassis.

Ah - know what you mean now. Those old enough to remember rope washing
lines will remember they came like that too.

But plastic cable ties weren't around then. ;-)

--
*We are born naked, wet, and hungry. Then things get worse.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.


The person who showed me was ex-services WW2 or 1950s sparky.
Yes really tight just like how plastic covered , corded washing lines arrive
packed, but with the plug and "noose" spiralling taken right up to the cable
entry point and not even any obvious starting point to undo it, let alone
being so tight. I remember the final move was really forcing a final loop
over or something.


--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/

"N Cook" wrote in message
...
Geoffrey S. Mendelson wrote in message
...
Ron(UK) wrote:

Presuming you mean to get rid of excess length of cable when the gear
is
installed. Don,t coil the cable, zigzag it.

I think what he means is something I was taught in electric shop in
junior
high school (1967?) called an electrician's knot.

Here's a drawing of it:

http://www.mtechnologies.com/building/3-fig3.jpg

and a description:
http://www.mtechnologies.com/building/atoz3.htm

I've often cheated in places where the cable was already run and did not
want to cut it to tie the knot by taking a large nylon cable tie (aka
Tie-Wrap) and placing it around the wire inside the unit. Be sure
to leave some slack so that if the wire is pulled it stresses the
cable tie, not the wire.

Geoff.

You are right about coiling the wire, it will create a magnetic field.
The one exception to that rule is coax, it can be coiled.





--
Geoffrey S. Mendelson, Jerusalem, Israel N3OWJ/4X1GM
IL Voice: (07)-7424-1667 Fax ONLY: 972-2-648-1443 U.S. Voice:
1-215-821-1838
Visit my 'blog at http://geoffstechno.livejournal.com/

Not that one.
For storing or just shelving unused equipment , so the mains cable was not
trailling about and no need for ties of any sort. All the cable is taken
up
into the hank/knot leaving just the mains plug exposed and all tight up
against the back of the chassis.
The person who showed me years ago how to do it , went overboard.
It used to annoy me that the bunching was so close to the chassis and
bunched so tight you needed a screwdriver to open up the knot and there
was
always a tight spiral of cable for 6 or so turns when undone that stayed
like that. I've long since forgotten how to do it.
I invented my own that did not deform the cable so much and easily undone
by myself or customers, but you cannot form it right up close to the
chassis.

--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/


Here's the one I was taught. Assuming that you are right handed. Zig-zag the
cable in your left hand, starting up close to the equipment, and making the
zig-zags about 8 inches. Make about 5 or 6 of them, which should have used
up about 1/2 to 2/3 of a 'normal' cable length. Stop zig-zagging when the
cable end, with plugtop, is away from you. Now take the remaining cable in
your right hand, holding it close to where the zig-zagged piece is hanging
out from your left fist, and take a single tightly pulled turn around the
end, winding away from yourself. As you complete that first turn, angle the
cable in towards your left hand, so that it crosses over the point where
that first turn started from. This locks the turn in place, and now you can
just go ahead and keep winding the spare cable around, feeding the
zig-zagged piece out of your fist, as you go. If you've judged it right (
years of practice ! ) You should get about 11/2 inches from the equipment
end of the zigzags, when you have about 6 or 8 inches of cable left. This
last piece of cable is formed into a squashed loop, and fed through the end
loops of the zig-zags. It is then pulled back over the zig-zag loops, and
finally, you pull on the plugtop, which pulls the last loop in nice and
tight. This method is the neatest I've ever seen, and NEVER comes undone on
its own, unlike attempts that I've seen many engineers make, to reproduce
something similar. Where they usually go wrong, is wrapping in the same
direction as they made the zig-zags, This fails to lock that first turn in
place, so the whole wrap becomes loose and sloppy. It's a lot easier to do
than describe, but if this is the standard old repairman's wrap that you
were looking for, I'm sure it will come right back to you as soon as you try
to follow this.

Arfa

"N Cook" wrote in message
...

For tying up mains leads on equipment, tight to the back of the chassis -
is
the knotting process described anywhere on the www ?

Search for the UL knot.

"Homer J Simpson" wrote in message
news:SgjOh.22140$__3.3034@edtnps90...

"N Cook" wrote in message
...

For tying up mains leads on equipment, tight to the back of the chassis -
is
the knotting process described anywhere on the www ?

Search for the UL knot.


If I'm reading him correctly Homey, that's not the knot (!) that he's
looking for. I sent him some pictures of the one he wants, but apparently,
no BB, so would take him about a week to d/l
9 meg of photos... I'll perhaps put the pics up on a website somewhere so
that he can see them, poor boy ... d;~}

Arfa

In article ,
Arfa Daily wrote:
If I'm reading him correctly Homey, that's not the knot (!) that he's
looking for. I sent him some pictures of the one he wants, but
apparently, no BB, so would take him about a week to d/l 9 meg of
photos... I'll perhaps put the pics up on a website somewhere so that
he can see them, poor boy ... d;~}

Still take as long to load. ;-)

--
*Change is inevitable, except from a vending machine.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Arfa Daily wrote in message
...

"Homer J Simpson" wrote in message
news:SgjOh.22140$__3.3034@edtnps90...

"N Cook" wrote in message
...

For tying up mains leads on equipment, tight to the back of the
chassis -
is
the knotting process described anywhere on the www ?

Search for the UL knot.


If I'm reading him correctly Homey, that's not the knot (!) that he's
looking for. I sent him some pictures of the one he wants, but apparently,
no BB, so would take him about a week to d/l
9 meg of photos... I'll perhaps put the pics up on a website somewhere so
that he can see them, poor boy ... d;~}

Arfa



What is the point of deliberately squandering bandwidth, oh I know, its
because you have broadband, whether filling "email" pipes or "www" pipes.
Assuming it was 9 x1Meg jpegs then 20% area reduction and 30% jpeg purity
would be far more than adequate for this graphics level purpose, so down to
about 30K each.
If anyone should want a high resolution version then that comes later, by
personal arrangement.

Why send, unsolicited/unconfirmed, to some un-notified email account fully
open to the full blast of spam, courtesy of usenet.


--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/

"N Cook" wrote in message
...
Arfa Daily wrote in message
...

"Homer J Simpson" wrote in message
news:SgjOh.22140$__3.3034@edtnps90...

"N Cook" wrote in message
...

For tying up mains leads on equipment, tight to the back of the
chassis -
is
the knotting process described anywhere on the www ?

Search for the UL knot.


If I'm reading him correctly Homey, that's not the knot (!) that he's
looking for. I sent him some pictures of the one he wants, but
apparently,
no BB, so would take him about a week to d/l
9 meg of photos... I'll perhaps put the pics up on a website somewhere so
that he can see them, poor boy ... d;~}

Arfa



What is the point of deliberately squandering bandwidth, oh I know, its
because you have broadband, whether filling "email" pipes or "www" pipes.
Assuming it was 9 x1Meg jpegs then 20% area reduction and 30% jpeg purity
would be far more than adequate for this graphics level purpose, so down
to
about 30K each.
If anyone should want a high resolution version then that comes later, by
personal arrangement.

Why send, unsolicited/unconfirmed, to some un-notified email account fully
open to the full blast of spam, courtesy of usenet.



Well pardon me for trying to help you. I won't be in the future. Your
response borders on ignorant ...

Tie your cables up with old rope if you prefer.

Arfa
--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/

"Arfa Daily" wrote in message
...



Well pardon me for trying to help you. I won't be in the future. Your response
borders on ignorant ...

Tie your cables up with old rope if you prefer.

Arfa


You started out in this thread looking like a nice guy, trying to help. You sure
soiled your own image in a hurry.

Why immediately ridicule the original poster because he doesn't have or need a
high-speed internet connection? All anyone wants is that you share your pictures in
a way that is available to all, not just those with a high-speed internet, which BTW
still is NOT available everywhere. Even if everyone had a high-speed connection,
it's still inconsiderate to send images in any resolution form larger than they need
be.

Why don't you post your pictures to a site like Image Shack, which has options to
downsize them? This way everyone, not just the original poster can see what you are
talking about.

http://www.imageshack.us/

C'mon, be a good guy, there are enough jerks around here already.

"Arfa Daily" wrote in message
...

Why send, unsolicited/unconfirmed, to some un-notified email account
fully
open to the full blast of spam, courtesy of usenet.

Well pardon me for trying to help you. I won't be in the future. Your
response borders on ignorant ...

Tie your cables up with old rope if you prefer.

Be fair. In foreign places, you sometimes have to pay by the kilobyte, so
short, small messages are preferred.

Arfa Daily wrote:
Well pardon me for trying to help you. I won't be in the future. Your
response borders on ignorant ...

IMHO, "ignorant" is emailing enormous images straight off a digital
camera when it would only take a few moments to resize them to a smaller
file. But a lot of people are ignorant of how to properly handle
digital photos, so I try not to hold it against them.