Electronics Repair (sci.electronics.repair) Discussion of repairing electronic equipment. Topics include requests for assistance, where to obtain servicing information and parts, techniques for diagnosis and repair, and annecdotes about success, failures and problems.

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Default grind off solder mask to get down to copper


Whats the chemical to take off the

solder mask , so i can solder to tiny

PCB traces ? I guess some acid that

wont harm copper .

Im Hacking the connector on a

game box "GP2X" .

I want my own , more robust connector

where all the USB lines are heading off

board in same direction .

mail is

x-x-x-x-WERTY-x-x-x-AT-x-x-x-x-x-
x-x-x-x-S_W_I_S_S_I_N_F_O-x-x-x-x-
x-x-x-x-ORG-x-x-x-x-

BTW im also doin ARM 7 mcu's .
Ill hook up a $44 ARM7 with USB
as a "peripheral" to control KB
and LCD , and pass on important
stuff to a central ARM7 . I test
code on the first ARM 7 , so
the central 7 , can't crash .
Central ARM 7 can boot the other
in milliseconds .
I will use low cost LCD ,BW , $10
from BG Micro .
This project is unique , because it
will never use text . There will be
icons and images on the LCD to
show you what is happening .

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Default grind off solder mask to get down to copper

On 20 Feb, 04:16, "Werty" wrote:

Whats the chemical to take off the

solder mask , so i can solder to tiny

PCB traces ?


metal scourer or blade.

I guess some acid that

wont harm copper .


no such thing


NT

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Default grind off solder mask to get down to copper


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On 20 Feb, 04:16, "Werty" wrote:

Whats the chemical to take off the

solder mask , so i can solder to tiny

PCB traces ?


metal scourer or blade.

I guess some acid that

wont harm copper .


no such thing


NT


I agree with meow. It is very difficult successfully hand soldering to
genuinely tiny traces, but I guess it depends what you and I define as "
tiny ". I'm talking traces of less than a half milimetre, separated by a
similar amount. I always use a scraper to remove the solder resist. I have
an Exacto scalpel with a blunt curved blade fitted for the job. I then
liberally tin the exposed copper tracks, and then solder-mop them back flat,
before soldering the new wires on, using a tiny amount of liquid flux, and
the finest gauge solder that you can get. The flux gives serious help with
getting the solder to stay *on* the tracks where you want it, rather than
flowing *between* them, where you don't ...

When I've finished, I usually put a small bead of two-part epoxy in a line
across the new conductors, back a short distance from where they are
soldered, to offer a bit of mechanical strength, as the tiny tracks will
lift if they get the slightest pull from the new wires.

Arfa


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