I've got what I think to be a Carbon Resistor (brown cylindrical case with
no bubbled out ends) with 5 bands on it.

Band 1 = Orange
Band 2 = White
Band 3 = Green
Band 4 = Silver
Band 5 = Green

I think this comes out to be 3.95 Ohms (10% Tollerance) Right?

New to this stuff and want to make sure I order the right part.

Zack

Zachary Burns wrote:
I've got what I think to be a Carbon Resistor (brown cylindrical case with
no bubbled out ends) with 5 bands on it.

Band 1 = Orange
Band 2 = White
Band 3 = Green
Band 4 = Silver
Band 5 = Green

I think this comes out to be 3.95 Ohms (10% Tollerance) Right?

Zack

Maybe not. I read it as 3-9-00000 ohms (3900000 ohms, or 3.9 megohms)
10%. The last band (green) may be a voltage rating or a power rating.

Bill

Ok. So I think I get the following:

3900000 * silver tollerance band = 39,000

39,000 Ohms (includes 10% tollerance) and 5% failure rate per 1,000 hours.

Am I correct?

Anybody know of a good supplier to get this resistor?

Zack



"Meat Plow" wrote in message
news
On Mon, 08 Jan 2007 10:36:51 -0500, Zachary Burns Has Frothed:

I've got what I think to be a Carbon Resistor (brown cylindrical case
with
no bubbled out ends) with 5 bands on it.

Band 1 = Orange
Band 2 = White
Band 3 = Green
Band 4 = Silver
Band 5 = Green

I think this comes out to be 3.95 Ohms (10% Tollerance) Right?

New to this stuff and want to make sure I order the right part.

Zack

http://xtronics.com/kits/rcode.htm

--
Pierre Salinger Memorial Hook, Line & Sinker, June 2004

COOSN-266-06-25794

Bill Jeffrey schrieb:

Zachary Burns wrote:
....
Band 1 = Orange
Band 2 = White
Band 3 = Green
Band 4 = Silver
Band 5 = Green
....
... The last band (green) may be a voltage rating or a power rating.

Tempco?

Ciao

Reinhard

How would I know if I need a 1/4 or 1/2 watt, etc. Just by looking at the
resistor?

Zack


"Meat Plow" wrote in message
news
On Mon, 08 Jan 2007 11:31:21 -0500, Zachary Burns Has Frothed:

Ok. So I think I get the following:

3900000 * silver tollerance band = 39,000

39,000 Ohms (includes 10% tollerance) and 5% failure rate per 1,000
hours.

Am I correct?

Anybody know of a good supplier to get this resistor?

Zack

3 million 900 thousand ohms. 10% tolerance.
3-9-00000

Or 3.9 megohms

Find them most any place that sells resistors, caps, semiconducters.

Found it. Measured the length and came up with 9.5mm.

Thanks to all.

Zack


"Zachary Burns" wrote in message
...
How would I know if I need a 1/4 or 1/2 watt, etc. Just by looking at the
resistor?

Zack


"Meat Plow" wrote in message
news
On Mon, 08 Jan 2007 11:31:21 -0500, Zachary Burns Has Frothed:

Ok. So I think I get the following:

3900000 * silver tollerance band = 39,000

39,000 Ohms (includes 10% tollerance) and 5% failure rate per 1,000
hours.

Am I correct?

Anybody know of a good supplier to get this resistor?

Zack

3 million 900 thousand ohms. 10% tolerance.
3-9-00000

Or 3.9 megohms

Find them most any place that sells resistors, caps, semiconducters.

Zachary Burns wrote:

How would I know if I need a 1/4 or 1/2 watt, etc. Just by looking at the
resistor?

AaaarrggghhhHHH !

P = V^2/R maybe ?

Graham

You were closer the first time.

If fourth band is silver or gold, you have two significant digits and
the third band is the exponent, fourth band is the tolerance , 5 or 10
percent. Special case if the first band is double-wide of the third
band is silver or gold.


If the third band is NOT silver or gold, then you have a three
significant digits and the fourth band is the exponent, fifth is the
tolerance. Not that since you have three digits, the exponents are
"one higher" than with the older format.

See any of the on-line resistor color code charts for the details.

On Mon, 8 Jan 2007 10:36:51 -0500, "Zachary Burns"
wrote:

I've got what I think to be a Carbon Resistor (brown cylindrical case with
no bubbled out ends) with 5 bands on it.

Band 1 = Orange
Band 2 = White
Band 3 = Green
Band 4 = Silver
Band 5 = Green

I think this comes out to be 3.95 Ohms (10% Tollerance) Right?

New to this stuff and want to make sure I order the right part.

Zack

I think you have a capacitor, not a resister. Band 5 is
a characteristic code, either temperature coefficient or
capacitance drift.

In your case .039 micro farads at 0 to +70 (ppm/Centigrade)
or plus or minus .05% + 0.1 pF

Is there a way to tell for sure?

If I took a picture could you tell?

Some cable technician cut this off of my friends television (she said it
stopped working on New Year's - must have been some party), anyway, and the
cable tv tech said it was bad. I told her the cable technician is probably
smoking crack! The component (looks like a resistor to me) isn't bad from
the limited testing I did, but I need to order a new one for her.

I'm a computer guy just trying to help her out....not an electrical
engineer.

Zack



wrote in message
...
On Mon, 8 Jan 2007 10:36:51 -0500, "Zachary Burns"
wrote:

I've got what I think to be a Carbon Resistor (brown cylindrical case with
no bubbled out ends) with 5 bands on it.

Band 1 = Orange
Band 2 = White
Band 3 = Green
Band 4 = Silver
Band 5 = Green

I think this comes out to be 3.95 Ohms (10% Tollerance) Right?

New to this stuff and want to make sure I order the right part.

Zack

I think you have a capacitor, not a resister. Band 5 is
a characteristic code, either temperature coefficient or
capacitance drift.

In your case .039 micro farads at 0 to +70 (ppm/Centigrade)
or plus or minus .05% + 0.1 pF

"Zachary Burns" ) writes:
Is there a way to tell for sure?

If I took a picture could you tell?

Some cable technician cut this off of my friends television (she said it
stopped working on New Year's - must have been some party), anyway, and the
cable tv tech said it was bad. I told her the cable technician is probably
smoking crack! The component (looks like a resistor to me) isn't bad from
the limited testing I did, but I need to order a new one for her.

I'm a computer guy just trying to help her out....not an electrical
engineer.

Zack

This is why it's always important to give all the details to begin with.

Your original post suggested the part was bad, which ruled out the obvious
means of verifying the color code. That would be you take an ohmmeter
and measure it, and that would give you the basis to interpret the
color code. This is also useful in recent years when sometimes the
colors used to code the resistors are odd looking, so at a glance it's
not clear what standard color a band is supposed to be.

But given the assumption it was bad, then there the measured resistance
wouldn't match the color code.

If the resistance matches the expected value of the color code, then you
know it's good.

If the value is zero, or close to it (which might be hard to judge
given the color code indicates a quite low value resistor) then it is
likely bad, because a bad capacitor could be shorted.

An open circuit (ie really high resistance) sure wouldn't be what
the color code suggests it would be as a resistor, but it might
be a capacitor, since capacitors will be open (though high value
capacitors will charge up, showing a low value resistance at first
and a high value resistance in the end). A capacitance meter,
or the function on a DMM, would give an indication of whether the
value matches some color code scheme for capacitors.

But, you have a bigger problem, something that would have been
bypassed in the first place if you'd revealed the whole story. Your
original post was so sparse that people took the question literally
when the answers should have dealt with the bigger problem.

YOu have some guy who may not have been qualified to look at the
tv set, and then turns around and drops the problem in your lap, and
you aren't qualified either. It doesn't even sound like you know
exactly what the "cable technician" was doing.

Given all that, it's no wonder you are going to have problems here.
Because you aren't actually evaluating the tv set, you are trying
to fix something some other guy has decided is the problem, and
only he knows why he thinks that.

Drop it back in his lap, because he's the one who's done the damage
so far.

Michael



wrote in message
...
On Mon, 8 Jan 2007 10:36:51 -0500, "Zachary Burns"
wrote:

I've got what I think to be a Carbon Resistor (brown cylindrical case with
no bubbled out ends) with 5 bands on it.

Band 1 = Orange
Band 2 = White
Band 3 = Green
Band 4 = Silver
Band 5 = Green

I think this comes out to be 3.95 Ohms (10% Tollerance) Right?

New to this stuff and want to make sure I order the right part.

Zack

I think you have a capacitor, not a resister. Band 5 is
a characteristic code, either temperature coefficient or
capacitance drift.

In your case .039 micro farads at 0 to +70 (ppm/Centigrade)
or plus or minus .05% + 0.1 pF

"Zachary Burns" wrote in message
...

If I took a picture could you tell?

Post it in ABSE







--

Posted a picture of it to: alt.binaries.schematics.electronic.

Also a picture at: http://www.geocities.com/zacharyburns/

Zack

"Homer J Simpson" wrote in message
news:sq9ph.131138$YV4.89995@edtnps89...

"Zachary Burns" wrote in message
...

If I took a picture could you tell?

Post it in ABSE







--

Reposted in (214 KB)

Zack

"Zachary Burns" wrote in message
...
Posted a picture of it to: alt.binaries.schematics.electronic.

Also a picture at: http://www.geocities.com/zacharyburns/

Zack

"Homer J Simpson" wrote in message
news:sq9ph.131138$YV4.89995@edtnps89...

"Zachary Burns" wrote in message
...

If I took a picture could you tell?

Post it in ABSE







--

"Zachary Burns" wrote in message
...

Also a picture at: http://www.geocities.com/zacharyburns/

3.9 Meg. 10%

On Thu, 11 Jan 2007 08:19:10 -0500, "Zachary Burns"
wrote:

Posted a picture of it to: alt.binaries.schematics.electronic.

Also a picture at: http://www.geocities.com/zacharyburns/

It's a 1/4 watt resister. It's exact value is probably not critical to
the circuit. Anything around 3.9 meg will work.

Meat Plow wrote:
On Thu, 11 Jan 2007 09:28:04 -0500, Zachary Burns Has Frothed:

Reposted in (214 KB)

Zack

"Zachary Burns" wrote in message
...
Posted a picture of it to: alt.binaries.schematics.electronic.

Also a picture at: http://www.geocities.com/zacharyburns/

Looks like a resistor.


Looking at the rather large picture (scroll bars on the above website),
could be a molded inductor ...

--
Adrian C

Zachary Burns wrote:
Some cable technician cut this off of my friends television

??? So he opened up the TV
??? And somehow during a new years eve party
??? probably without any tools
??? diagnosed the problem was this in this part


!!! sounds mighty fishy !!!

From the picture it's hard to tell-- it could be a resistor.

then again it could be a molded inductor.


in any case it's kinda unlikely a guy with no tools could pinpoint the
problem to one component that looks perfectly fine from the outside.

Oh, it could be a molded inductor.

Is there a way I can test this? If I hook up to an Ohm meter, I should get
what?

Zack


"Ancient_Hacker" wrote in message
ps.com...

Zachary Burns wrote:
Some cable technician cut this off of my friends television

??? So he opened up the TV
??? And somehow during a new years eve party
??? probably without any tools
??? diagnosed the problem was this in this part


!!! sounds mighty fishy !!!

From the picture it's hard to tell-- it could be a resistor.

then again it could be a molded inductor.


in any case it's kinda unlikely a guy with no tools could pinpoint the
problem to one component that looks perfectly fine from the outside.

"Ancient_Hacker" ) writes:
Zachary Burns wrote:
Some cable technician cut this off of my friends television

??? So he opened up the TV
??? And somehow during a new years eve party
??? probably without any tools
??? diagnosed the problem was this in this part


!!! sounds mighty fishy !!!

From the picture it's hard to tell-- it could be a resistor.

then again it could be a molded inductor.


in any case it's kinda unlikely a guy with no tools could pinpoint the
problem to one component that looks perfectly fine from the outside.

ANd of course, likely the tv set itself supplies information on whether
it's a resistor or inductor, since the board itself would likely have
a marking to indicate the part number for the schematic.

But, as you and I have said, that information has been lost since
"the guy" who "diagnosed" this problem isn't sticking with the "repair".

Michael

Somebody said it was bad and I can't replace with the part that was taken
out because they literally cut it out (from what I can tell). So I needed
to order a new one.

Zack

"Meat Plow" wrote in message
news
On Fri, 12 Jan 2007 09:46:10 -0500, Zachary Burns Has Frothed:

Subject: Figure out this Resistor with Color Code
From: "Zachary Burns"
Reply-To: "Zachary Burns"
Newsgroups: sci.electronics.repair
Date: Fri, 12 Jan 2007 09:46:10 -0500

Oh, it could be a molded inductor.

Is there a way I can test this? If I hook up to an Ohm meter, I should
get
what?


Low ohmage. Can you remind me why this part is a suspect?

--
Pierre Salinger Memorial Hook, Line & Sinker, June 2004

COOSN-266-06-25794

Zachary Burns wrote:

Somebody said it was bad and I can't replace with the part that was taken
out because they literally cut it out (from what I can tell). So I needed
to order a new one.

Brand and model of the TV set? The location on the board? If it was
"cut out" there would be a pair of cut leads sticking up to tell you
where it was.

That body style of resistor is quite old, and hasn't been used for
new sets for about 20 years. Most electronics these days are either
metal film, or surface mount. and look completely different. It looks
to be a 3.9 Meg 1/2 watt 10% carbon composition resistor. If it is a
carbon composition it would be used in the safety circuit to bleed
static charges to ground because damaged metal film resistors can arc
over, and electrocute someone. The set would operate without this part,
but not meet safety standards.


--
Service to my country? Been there, Done that, and I've got my DD214 to
prove it.
Member of DAV #85.

Michael A. Terrell
Central Florida

"Zachary Burns" wrote in message
...

Somebody said it was bad and I can't replace with the part that was taken
out because they literally cut it out (from what I can tell). So I needed
to order a new one.

It may not have even come from your set.







--

Don't know, but I'll ask. I doubt she'll bring in her 52" projection so I
can find out.

Zack

"Michael A. Terrell" wrote in message
...
Zachary Burns wrote:

Somebody said it was bad and I can't replace with the part that was taken
out because they literally cut it out (from what I can tell). So I
needed
to order a new one.

Brand and model of the TV set? The location on the board? If it was
"cut out" there would be a pair of cut leads sticking up to tell you
where it was.

That body style of resistor is quite old, and hasn't been used for
new sets for about 20 years. Most electronics these days are either
metal film, or surface mount. and look completely different. It looks
to be a 3.9 Meg 1/2 watt 10% carbon composition resistor. If it is a
carbon composition it would be used in the safety circuit to bleed
static charges to ground because damaged metal film resistors can arc
over, and electrocute someone. The set would operate without this part,
but not meet safety standards.


--
Service to my country? Been there, Done that, and I've got my DD214 to
prove it.
Member of DAV #85.

Michael A. Terrell
Central Florida