The A/C plug for my 10.000 BTU unit has started to get too hot. It has damaged two surge protectors in as many days. I noticed rge problem after a recent power outage we had in the area a few days ago. The plug is molded in and the wire is direcrly connected to the wall unit.
Can I just replace the plug? Will it be safe to d so?

Please help!

"nbj" wrote in message
...

The A/C plug for my 10.000 BTU unit has started to get too hot. It has
damaged two surge protectors in as many days. I noticed rge problem
after a recent power outage we had in the area a few days ago. The plug
is molded in and the wire is direcrly connected to the wall unit.
Can I just replace the plug? Will it be safe to d so?

Please help!

It is much safer to replace it than not to! If the plug itself does not
have corrosion that you could clean off, then there's probably a near-break
in the wires inside it. YOUR HOUSE WILL BURN DOWN IF YOU KEEP USING IT. DO
NOT USE IT UNTIL IT'S FIXED.

Thank you! Yes, I HAVE unplugged it for now. I do not see any corrosion on the plug, but there are tell tale signs on the plug itself, like burn marks near the metallic part (the correct term escapes me!), and the wire closer to the plug gets hot and soft as well. Can replacing the plug be a SAFE solution, or will it still carry some danger with it? How do I fix it if there is a near break in the wires inside?

nbj wrote:
mc Wrote:
"nbj" wrote in message
...-

The A/C plug for my 10.000 BTU unit has started to get too hot. It
has
damaged two surge protectors in as many days. I noticed rge problem
after a recent power outage we had in the area a few days ago. The
plug
is molded in and the wire is direcrly connected to the wall unit.
Can I just replace the plug? Will it be safe to d so?

Please help!-

It is much safer to replace it than not to! If the plug itself does
not
have corrosion that you could clean off, then there's probably a
near-break
in the wires inside it. YOUR HOUSE WILL BURN DOWN IF YOU KEEP USING
IT. DO
NOT USE IT UNTIL IT'S FIXED.

Thank you! Yes, I HAVE unplugged it for now. I do not see any
corrosion on the plug, but there are tell tale signs on the plug
itself, like burn marks near the metallic part (the correct term
escapes me!), and the wire closer to the plug gets hot and soft as
well. Can replacing the plug be a SAFE solution, or will it still carry
some danger with it? How do I fix it if there is a near break in the
wires inside?




--
nbj

If it's a plug you can open up, then when you open it it'll be ovbiou
where the problem is from the most burnt places. I expect one of the
conductors inside is corroded or loose. You might be able to just
tighten up the little screws if a conductor is loose, or if it's
corroded cut a few cm off the wire and put the plug back on. If the
plug is damaged in any way other than being discoloured, then take it
off and fit a new plug - remember to put the same rated fuse in (If
you're in a country with fuses in the plug like the UK). If in doubt
if the conductors in the wire themself is broken the safe thing to do
is to cut a few cm off the end, and re strip the wires. If you don't
know how to fit a plug, try a step-by-step guide from google.

Thanks

nbj wrote:

mc Wrote:
"nbj" wrote in message
...-

The A/C plug for my 10.000 BTU unit has started to get too hot. It
has
damaged two surge protectors in as many days. I noticed rge problem
after a recent power outage we had in the area a few days ago. The
plug
is molded in and the wire is direcrly connected to the wall unit.
Can I just replace the plug? Will it be safe to d so?

Please help!-

It is much safer to replace it than not to! If the plug itself does
not
have corrosion that you could clean off, then there's probably a
near-break
in the wires inside it. YOUR HOUSE WILL BURN DOWN IF YOU KEEP USING
IT. DO
NOT USE IT UNTIL IT'S FIXED.

Thank you! Yes, I HAVE unplugged it for now. I do not see any
corrosion on the plug, but there are tell tale signs on the plug
itself, like burn marks near the metallic part (the correct term
escapes me!), and the wire closer to the plug gets hot and soft as
well. Can replacing the plug be a SAFE solution, or will it still carry
some danger with it? How do I fix it if there is a near break in the
wires inside?

--
nbj


If the plug is damaged, you need to have the outlet replaced as
well. It may have been what caused the damage to the existing plug. I
ran into an air conditioner where it was used with an approved A/C
extension cord. There was excess plastic in the socket that only let one
side make contact. This made the connection run warm and melted the
plastic, which corroded the connection and fused the two connectors
together. If I hadn't found it and made proper repairs, there would
have been another electrical fire. I've lost two different breaker
boxes in the last eight years. One had the ground buss bar burn, and the
other box had the main breaker burn free of one of the two 120 VAC line
buss bars. Both were installed by licensed electricians and inspected
by the county, and a home inspection service before I bought the
property.


--
Service to my country? Been there, Done that, and I've got my DD214 to
prove it.
Member of DAV #85.

Michael A. Terrell
Central Florida

Thank you! Yes, I HAVE unplugged it for now. I do not see any
corrosion on the plug, but there are tell tale signs on the plug
itself, like burn marks near the metallic part (the correct term
escapes me!), and the wire closer to the plug gets hot and soft as
well. Can replacing the plug be a SAFE solution, or will it still carry
some danger with it? How do I fix it if there is a near break in the
wires inside?

A properly replaced plug is safe. (Make sure you know which wire goes to
which prong; you can use an ohmmeter on the old plug and the cut-off wire to
verify this.) Simply cut off the wire far enough away from the original
plug to get past the break. Can you identify the exact spot that the heat
is coming from?

Michael A. Terrell ha escrito:




If the plug is damaged, you need to have the outlet replaced as
well. It may have been what caused the damage to the existing plug. I
ran into an air conditioner where it was used with an approved A/C
extension cord. There was excess plastic in the socket that only let one
side make contact. This made the connection run warm and melted the
plastic, which corroded the connection and fused the two connectors
together. If I hadn't found it and made proper repairs, there would
have been another electrical fire. I've lost two different breaker
boxes in the last eight years. One had the ground buss bar burn, and the
other box had the main breaker burn free of one of the two 120 VAC line
buss bars. Both were installed by licensed electricians and inspected
by the county, and a home inspection service before I bought the
property.


What brand were the burnt breaker boxes? Were they "Federal Pacific" by
chance?

It could be the plug / socket or any other NODE where it ties into down the
line.....including the fuse / breaker itself which may be ready to give out
but not quite yet. If the breaker of fuse is hot too, thats a good sign.

Copper wire does corrode after time , and I have seen the oxidization turn
black under right conditions and work itself around each part of the wire
that is twisted onto each other. It will actually insulate the 2 wires from
each other if left unnoticed, and it will get hot the more current is drawn
from the faulty node. This seems to happen more often in older homes where
they used the old cloth electrical tape, but I expect if a repair is done by
a layman who dont follow codes, anythings possible. It may work fine for
years, then burn down the home as others have warned.

If the plug is damaged, you need to have the outlet replaced as
well. It may have been what caused the damage to the existing plug. I
ran into an air conditioner where it was used with an approved A/C
extension cord. There was excess plastic in the socket that only let one
side make contact. This made the connection run warm and melted the
plastic, which corroded the connection and fused the two connectors
together. If I hadn't found it and made proper repairs, there would
have been another electrical fire. I've lost two different breaker
boxes in the last eight years. One had the ground buss bar burn, and the
other box had the main breaker burn free of one of the two 120 VAC line
buss bars. Both were installed by licensed electricians and inspected
by the county, and a home inspection service before I bought the
property.

Hi!

Can I just replace the plug? Will it be safe to d so?

Absolutely! I'd heartily recommend doing so.

Buy a plug of sufficient size for the unit. Any hardware store should have
what you need. Assuming it's a 120 volt model, a 120 volt plug rated for 15
amps is usually sufficient. Having just recently put a new plug on my 120
volt 1991-era Kenmore 12,000 BTU unit, I think you'll be fine with a 15A
plug. That's what my unit calls for on the informational plate inside...

Clip off the old plug and destroy it. (You don't want someone coming along
and plugging it in to a live outlet. They could hurt themselves badly.)
Strip the wires back and separate them to give yourself enough room to work,
and then install them in the plug (pay attention to wire color).

I would also recommend plugging your air conditioner directly into the wall.
Surges shouldn't bother it that much. If they are, I suspect you're having
more trouble with your wiring or the outlet being able to provide sufficient
power for the air conditioner.

William

lsmartino wrote:

Michael A. Terrell ha escrito:



If the plug is damaged, you need to have the outlet replaced as
well. It may have been what caused the damage to the existing plug. I
ran into an air conditioner where it was used with an approved A/C
extension cord. There was excess plastic in the socket that only let one
side make contact. This made the connection run warm and melted the
plastic, which corroded the connection and fused the two connectors
together. If I hadn't found it and made proper repairs, there would
have been another electrical fire. I've lost two different breaker
boxes in the last eight years. One had the ground buss bar burn, and the
other box had the main breaker burn free of one of the two 120 VAC line
buss bars. Both were installed by licensed electricians and inspected
by the county, and a home inspection service before I bought the
property.


What brand were the burnt breaker boxes? Were they "Federal Pacific" by
chance?

They were both Square "D", but the two different electricians didn't
use any contact lube to prevent corrosion. One box was pole mounted
outside, and the other was 10 inches from the floor in an un-insulated
outside wall, so both got a fair amount of condensation. The house was
owned by midgets, and everything was mounted well below code height.


--
Service to my country? Been there, Done that, and I've got my DD214 to
prove it.
Member of DAV #85.

Michael A. Terrell
Central Florida

Almost the entire wire gets hot within minutes and the circuit breaker in the surge protector trips. (the cheaper ones can be reset and used again, but the more expensive ones were copletely lost!). By the way, I am in the US so I guess the "fuse in the plug" part does not apply to me. How do I select the right plug to replace the old one. The socket seems to be fine because other things are working fine with it.

Thanks to ALL of you for your help.

"William R. Walsh" m
wrote in news:v2xzg.868615$084.482961@attbi_s22:


I would also recommend plugging your air conditioner directly into the
wall. Surges shouldn't bother it that much. If they are, I suspect
you're having more trouble with your wiring or the outlet being able
to provide sufficient power for the air conditioner.

William


Wouldn't an air conditioner more likely be the SOURCE of a surge rather
than the recipient?

Puckdropper
--
Wise is the man who attempts to answer his question before asking it.

To email me directly, send a message to puckdropper (at) fastmail.fm

nbj wrote:

mc Wrote:
Thank you! Yes, I HAVE unplugged it for now. I do not see any-
corrosion on the plug, but there are tell tale signs on the plug
itself, like burn marks near the metallic part (the correct term
escapes me!), and the wire closer to the plug gets hot and soft as
well. Can replacing the plug be a SAFE solution, or will it still
carry
some danger with it? How do I fix it if there is a near break in the
wires inside?-

A properly replaced plug is safe. (Make sure you know which wire goes
to
which prong; you can use an ohmmeter on the old plug and the cut-off
wire to
verify this.) Simply cut off the wire far enough away from the
original
plug to get past the break. Can you identify the exact spot that the
heat
is coming from?

Almost the entire wire gets hot within minutes and the circuit breaker
in the surge protector trips. (the cheaper ones can be reset and used
again, but the more expensive ones were copletely lost!). By the way, I
am in the US so I guess the "fuse in the plug" part does not apply to
me. How do I select the right plug to replace the old one. The socket
seems to be fine because other things are working fine with it.

Thanks to ALL of you for your help.

--
nbj


The plugs are current rated, by NEMA type. You have to select the
same NEMA type plug for a replacement, but it is foolish to not replace
the outlet if the plug is damaged. On the other hand, it is your life
to lose in a house fire because you wouldn't spend a couple dollars to
replcae a defective outlet. If the insurance compnay finds out, they
won't have to pay for any fire damage, after the fact.

https://www.hubbellnet.com/max_htm/tech_stuff/NEMA/front.html


--
Service to my country? Been there, Done that, and I've got my DD214 to
prove it.
Member of DAV #85.

Michael A. Terrell
Central Florida

Almost the entire wire gets hot within minutes and the circuit breaker
in the surge protector trips. (the cheaper ones can be reset and used
again, but the more expensive ones were copletely lost!). By the way, I
am in the US so I guess the "fuse in the plug" part does not apply to
me. How do I select the right plug to replace the old one. The socket
seems to be fine because other things are working fine with it.

This is a job for an appliance repairman.

"mc" wrote in message
. ..
Almost the entire wire gets hot within minutes and the circuit breaker
in the surge protector trips. (the cheaper ones can be reset and used
again, but the more expensive ones were copletely lost!). By the way, I
am in the US so I guess the "fuse in the plug" part does not apply to
me. How do I select the right plug to replace the old one. The socket
seems to be fine because other things are working fine with it.

This is a job for an appliance repairman.

Or rather an electrician, since the wall outlet is also suspect.

On Mon, 31 Jul 2006 04:06:37 +0100, nbj wrote:



The A/C plug for my 10.000 BTU unit has started to get too hot. It has
damaged two surge protectors in as many days. I noticed rge problem
after a recent power outage we had in the area a few days ago. The plug
is molded in and the wire is direcrly connected to the wall unit.
Can I just replace the plug? Will it be safe to d so?

Please help!


Quit using a "surge protector". I very much doubt you have one rated
to carry the current of the airconditioning unit. Also, the AC unit
has no fragile electronics and the surge protector will introduce resistance.

If the plug still heats up, replace it.
Keep in mind that you might have a AC unit that is dying and that is
pulling too much current for the wiring.

nbj wrote:
The A/C plug for my 10.000 BTU unit has started to get too hot. It has
damaged two surge protectors in as many days. I noticed rge problem
after a recent power outage we had in the area a few days ago. The plug
is molded in and the wire is direcrly connected to the wall unit.
Can I just replace the plug? Will it be safe to d so?

Please help!






Replace the plug with a heavy duty commercial grade plug, also don't
plug it into a surge protector, plug it straight into an outlet and if
it doesn't fit firmly replace the outlet with a commercial grade one as
a lot of houses are built with cheap contractor grade crap.

Replace the plug with a heavy duty commercial grade plug, also don't plug
it into a surge protector, plug it straight into an outlet and if it
doesn't fit firmly replace the outlet with a commercial grade one as a lot
of houses are built with cheap contractor grade crap.

Good advice. A 10,000 BTU, 120-volt air conditioner will pull 10 to 15
amps, which is near the maximum that a well-built wall outlet and plug are
designed to handle. (Maximum is 15 or 20 amps depending on type of outlet
and wiring behind it.) The surge protector is designed for things that draw
much less current, such as a computer drawing 2 amps, and should not be
involved; it's just another place for things to go wrong.

Check the current/wattage rating on your "surge protector". I suspect
the reason you're blowing them up is they are not rated for the current.
A 10,000 BTU unit will pull a fair amount of current, particularly if
it's an older unit, not an "Energy Star" type. That also could be why
the plug is getting hot if the receptacle in the surge protector is not
rated for that kind of load.
If it is a bad plug, replacing it with the proper type, 20A, from the
hardware store is OK, if you know what you're doing. But if you're not
electrically savvy, like plugging a BIG AC unit into a surge protector
meant for a 300W computer, seek some help!



mc Wrote:

Thank you! Yes, I HAVE unplugged it for now. I do not see any-
corrosion on the plug, but there are tell tale signs on the plug
itself, like burn marks near the metallic part (the correct term
escapes me!), and the wire closer to the plug gets hot and soft as
well. Can replacing the plug be a SAFE solution, or will it still
carry
some danger with it? How do I fix it if there is a near break in the
wires inside?-

A properly replaced plug is safe. (Make sure you know which wire goes
to
which prong; you can use an ohmmeter on the old plug and the cut-off
wire to
verify this.) Simply cut off the wire far enough away from the
original
plug to get past the break. Can you identify the exact spot that the
heat
is coming from?


Almost the entire wire gets hot within minutes and the circuit breaker
in the surge protector trips. (the cheaper ones can be reset and used
again, but the more expensive ones were copletely lost!). By the way, I
am in the US so I guess the "fuse in the plug" part does not apply to
me. How do I select the right plug to replace the old one. The socket
seems to be fine because other things are working fine with it.

Thanks to ALL of you for your help.

Are you talking about a power strip surge protector? These are usually rated
for less than 10 amps and I'm farily confident that your AC uses at least
that much current. That is probably your problem if you are using a power
strip.

- Mike

"tomh" wrote in message
...

Check the current/wattage rating on your "surge protector". I suspect the
reason you're blowing them up is they are not rated for the current. A
10,000 BTU unit will pull a fair amount of current, particularly if it's
an older unit, not an "Energy Star" type. That also could be why the plug
is getting hot if the receptacle in the surge protector is not rated for
that kind of load.
If it is a bad plug, replacing it with the proper type, 20A, from the
hardware store is OK, if you know what you're doing. But if you're not
electrically savvy, like plugging a BIG AC unit into a surge protector
meant for a 300W computer, seek some help!



mc Wrote:
Thank you! Yes, I HAVE unplugged it for now. I do not see any-
corrosion on the plug, but there are tell tale signs on the plug
itself, like burn marks near the metallic part (the correct term
escapes me!), and the wire closer to the plug gets hot and soft as
well. Can replacing the plug be a SAFE solution, or will it still
carry
some danger with it? How do I fix it if there is a near break in the
wires inside?-

A properly replaced plug is safe. (Make sure you know which wire goes
to which prong; you can use an ohmmeter on the old plug and the cut-off
wire to verify this.) Simply cut off the wire far enough away from the
original plug to get past the break. Can you identify the exact spot
that the
heat is coming from?


Almost the entire wire gets hot within minutes and the circuit breaker
in the surge protector trips. (the cheaper ones can be reset and used
again, but the more expensive ones were copletely lost!). By the way, I
am in the US so I guess the "fuse in the plug" part does not apply to
me. How do I select the right plug to replace the old one. The socket
seems to be fine because other things are working fine with it.

Thanks to ALL of you for your help.

Michael Kennedy wrote:
Are you talking about a power strip surge protector? These are usually rated
for less than 10 amps and I'm farily confident that your AC uses at least
that much current. That is probably your problem if you are using a power
strip.

As Michael Terrel previously wrote:
The plugs are current rated, by NEMA type.

An author that does not understand what Michael wrote might then
post:
Are you talking about a power strip surge protector? These are
usually rated for less than 10 amps

Michael posted basic facts that every responder should have
understood. That means the standard AC plug connected to a power
strip can draw 15 amps - no problem. That air conditioner should not
draw that much current - as even its NEMA plug defines.

Meanwhile, a power strip must also have a 15 amp circuit breaker.
Minimally acceptable $3.50 power strips have a 15 amp circuit breaker
that is resettable. Why then is the grossly overpriced surge protector
damaged by more than 15 amps?

A 10000 BTU air conditioner should never damage any power strip -
should not trip that 15 amp breaker. The fact that air conditioner
does implies a failure inside the air conditioner or problems elsewhere
in wire inside walls. Fact that the power strip has a tripping 15 amp
circuit breaker means the power strip is protecting human life. Any
power strip permenantly damaged by a +15 amp load should be listed here
as a defective product so that all can avoid it.

Any power strip (including protector type) that cannot provide 15
amps or does not have that all so necessary circuit breaker belongs in
the trash right now. Power strips using that NEMA 15 plug must be
rated for more than 10 amps to get UL approval. No UL approval? But
it immediately in the trash.

I am listing the power strip that was damaged as suggested by Tom:

Brand: "Power Sentry" tv?vcr surge protector. Specifications include Resettable Cricuit Breaker: 15 amps, energy dissipation: 2450v Joules, and UL listing says that "this surge suppressor is rated for maximum limiting voltage at 500 amps per UL standard 1449 as follows: H-N 330 volt, H-G 330 volt, and N-G 30 volts.

I am sure many of you out there understand all this better than I do! I lost two of these, but the $3.50 one was reset and can still be used.

I have solved the problem by replacing the old plug with a new one from Home Depot. I have not had any problem since yesterday, though I am still apprehensive about leaving the unit running when no one's home. The wire still gets slightly warm to touch but my neighbor says that is normal.

And oh, I will only plug the A/C directly in the wall socket!!

Thank you all for all the suggestions. (my first forum!)

From your post, that expensive power strip's circuit breaker did not
reset as claimed.

UL1449 only says protector should not burn down the house; does not
make any claims as to protector doing what is intended. In fact, a
protector can completely fail - not provide effective protection - and
still obtain UL1449 approval only because it did not threaten human
life

330 volts means the protector does nothing - remains inert - until
120 VAC exceeds 330 volts.

Fact that a new plug repaired the heat problem implies a wire inside
old plug or adjacent power cord had partially broken; thereby causing
excessive heating and causing air conditioner to draw more current (due
to lower voltage). That high current would then trip the 15 amp
circuit breaker - which did its job to protect you. Instead of getting
hotter and eventually tripping 20 amp breaker in breaker box, that 15
amp circuit breaker in power strips disconnected air conditioner sooner
- and safer.

nbj wrote:
I am listing the power strip that was damaged as suggested by Tom:

Brand: "Power Sentry" tv?vcr surge protector. Specifications include
Resettable Cricuit Breaker: 15 amps, energy dissipation: 2450v Joules,
and UL listing says that "this surge suppressor is rated for maximum
limiting voltage at 500 amps per UL standard 1449 as follows: H-N 330
volt, H-G 330 volt, and N-G 30 volts.

I am sure many of you out there understand all this better than I do!
I lost two of these, but the $3.50 one was reset and can still be
used.

I have solved the problem by replacing the old plug with a new one from
Home Depot. I have not had any problem since yesterday, though I am
still apprehensive about leaving the unit running when no one's home.
The wire still gets slightly warm to touch but my neighbor says that is
normal.

And oh, I will only plug the A/C directly in the wall socket!!

Thank you all for all the suggestions. (my first forum!)

An author that does not understand what Michael wrote might then
post:
Are you talking about a power strip surge protector? These are
usually rated for less than 10 amps

Well actually I didn't read the entire thread. I was just wanting to make
the point that you shouldn't have an AC on a power strip / surge protector.
I'm speaking from experience with power strips and amperage. If you plug a
high amp appliance (Heater, AC, Hair Dryer, etc.) into a power strip it
usually gets hot and or trips the circut breaker on it. Don't believe me?
Go plug a large heater into a surge protector and see for yourself.


Michael posted basic facts that every responder should have
understood. That means the standard AC plug connected to a power
strip can draw 15 amps - no problem. That air conditioner should not
draw that much current - as even its NEMA plug defines.

I have an 8,000 BTU 120V AC that requires 13.5 amps. It is not unreasonable
that a 10,000 BTU AC might require 15. If anything else was plugged in on
the same power strip it would cause a build-up of heat and cause the circuit
breaker to trip eventually.

If you read any liteature on window AC's they usualy state that they should
be used on an outlet without anything else pluged into it as mine does right
on the AC itself. I have it on its own outlet on its own circuit breaker.

-Mike

Oh I did it now.. w_tom is going to give me hell for this

Well actually I didn't read the entire thread.

and probably everything elese I said also..

- Mike

They are called NEMA 5-15. They must carry 15 amps current safely.
http://www.interpower.com/ic/sbc-k.asp
http://www.stayonline.com/reference-...ght-blade.aspx

An appliance using a NEMA 5-15 plug must draw even less current. If
an air conditioner trips a power strip 15 amp circuit breaker, then
that air conditioner (or other parts of household wiring) is a threat
to human life. Power strip circuit breaker was protecting human life.

Michael Kennedy cited experience without the temper of fundamental
technical knowledge. We teach junior high school science on how to
create a fact. Without both experience (the experiment) and
fundamental knowledge (basic theory from which a hypothesis is
generated), then a fact can not exist. Michael Kennedy cites
conclusion based only upon experience and that is in direct
contradiction to fundamental knowledge.

That fundamental knowledge says a NEMA 5-15 power strip must support
a 15 amp load. Its 15 amp circuit breaker tripped because appliance
load was excessive - for any appliance with a NEMA 5-15 plug.

If a high amperage appliance (heater, AC Hair Dryer) with a NEMA 5-15
plug causes power strip to get hot and trips circuit breaker, then fix
the problem or dispose of that defective appliance. That fact is both
from experience AND from fundamental knowledge on how appliances with
NEMA 5-15 plugs must operate.

A standard 8900 BTU GE air conditioner draws about 950 watts or about
8 amps. Apparently Michael is still running an old and very
ineffecient air conditioner - even less BTUs and draws more amps.
However, and again, that air conditioner with a NEMA 5-15 plug must not
draw in excess of 15 amps. His experience - hot power strip and
tripping circuit breaker - suggests problem with household wires, a
defective power strip that was properly protecting human life, or a
defective air conditioner.

A power strip 15 amp breaker therefore disconnected power and may
have protected his life. The tripped 15 amp breaker told Michael
Kennedy to locate and correct a defect.

Michael Kennedy wrote:
Well actually I didn't read the entire thread. I was just wanting to make
the point that you shouldn't have an AC on a power strip / surge protector.
I'm speaking from experience with power strips and amperage. If you plug a
high amp appliance (Heater, AC, Hair Dryer, etc.) into a power strip it
usually gets hot and or trips the circut breaker on it. Don't believe me?
Go plug a large heater into a surge protector and see for yourself.
...

I have an 8,000 BTU 120V AC that requires 13.5 amps. It is not unreasonable
that a 10,000 BTU AC might require 15. If anything else was plugged in on
the same power strip it would cause a build-up of heat and cause the circuit
breaker to trip eventually.