Hi,
The # t1.6l is on the fuse that blew in my Dell subwoofer. However, I cannot
find sufficient evidence anywhere to indicate what the voltage and amperage
is of this thing is. All of the charts I have found online are murky at best
and the most compelling information I can find is that this is of Asian
origin. If anyone knows anything about this and could help me out, I would
greatly appreciate it.

Thank you,
Pamela

In article jabXf.14730$B_1.2482@edtnps89, "Chris and Pamela" wrote:
Hi,
The # t1.6l is on the fuse that blew in my Dell subwoofer. However, I cannot
find sufficient evidence anywhere to indicate what the voltage and amperage
is of this thing is. All of the charts I have found online are murky at best
and the most compelling information I can find is that this is of Asian
origin. If anyone knows anything about this and could help me out, I would
greatly appreciate it.


It appears to be a timed 1.6 amp at most any volts. The letter at the end may
not be relevant if you can find one that is the same physical size.

greg

"Chris and Pamela" wrote in message
news:jabXf.14730$B_1.2482@edtnps89...
Hi,
The # t1.6l is on the fuse that blew in my Dell subwoofer. However, I
cannot
find sufficient evidence anywhere to indicate what the voltage and
amperage
is of this thing is. All of the charts I have found online are murky at
best
and the most compelling information I can find is that this is of Asian
origin. If anyone knows anything about this and could help me out, I would
greatly appreciate it.

Thank you,
Pamela


The L indicates time Lag (a.k.a. Slo-Blo).

Does it look like this?

http://www.belfuse.com/Data/DBObject/MRT.pdf

If so:

www.digikey.com part #507-1113-ND ($0.75 each)

http://dkc3.digikey.com/PDF/T061/1350.pdf

"Ray L. Volts" wrote in message
news:kltXf.688$e11.534@trnddc02...

"Chris and Pamela" wrote in message
news:jabXf.14730$B_1.2482@edtnps89...
Hi,
The # t1.6l is on the fuse that blew in my Dell subwoofer. However, I
cannot
find sufficient evidence anywhere to indicate what the voltage and
amperage
is of this thing is. All of the charts I have found online are murky at
best
and the most compelling information I can find is that this is of Asian
origin. If anyone knows anything about this and could help me out, I
would
greatly appreciate it.

Thank you,
Pamela


The L indicates time Lag (a.k.a. Slo-Blo).

correction.. the T indicates Time lag; I believe the L indicates "Long" time
lag.


Does it look like this?

http://www.belfuse.com/Data/DBObject/MRT.pdf

If so:

www.digikey.com part #507-1113-ND ($0.75 each)

http://dkc3.digikey.com/PDF/T061/1350.pdf

"Ray L. Volts" wrote in message
news:EotXf.689$e11.95@trnddc02...

correction.. the T indicates Time lag; I believe the L indicates "Long"
time lag.

Or perhaps Long leads in the ammo version, as opposed to short leads in the
bulk version...

"Ray L. Volts" schrieb:

"Ray L. Volts" wrote in message
news:EotXf.689$e11.95@trnddc02...

correction.. the T indicates Time lag; I believe the L indicates "Long"
time lag.

Or perhaps Long leads in the ammo version, as opposed to short leads in the
bulk version...

In German, "T" stands for "traege" i.e. IMHO slo-blo ... (dunno any
marking that indicates a longer delay than T).

HTH

Reinhard

t = temporized, traege, slow blow
f = fast

ok?
1.6A 120 or 250V

Thanks for help. It looks like this:
http://ca.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/pk1...c7.jpg&.src=ph
If it hadn't been for the years since I've posted to usenet, I woulda
remembered..the MORE information, the better! D'OH!
(I think I'm getting too old for this...)

"Ray L. Volts" wrote in message
news:kltXf.688$e11.534@trnddc02...

"Chris and Pamela" wrote in message
news:jabXf.14730$B_1.2482@edtnps89...
Hi,
The # t1.6l is on the fuse that blew in my Dell subwoofer. However, I
cannot
find sufficient evidence anywhere to indicate what the voltage and
amperage
is of this thing is. All of the charts I have found online are murky at
best
and the most compelling information I can find is that this is of Asian
origin. If anyone knows anything about this and could help me out, I
would
greatly appreciate it.

Thank you,
Pamela


The L indicates time Lag (a.k.a. Slo-Blo).

Does it look like this?

http://www.belfuse.com/Data/DBObject/MRT.pdf

If so:

www.digikey.com part #507-1113-ND ($0.75 each)

http://dkc3.digikey.com/PDF/T061/1350.pdf

Sorry that link doesn't work. Here's one that does.
http://users.eastlink.ca/~chrisandpam/fuse3.jpg
"Chris and Pamela" wrote in message
news:F2FXf.302$4S.300@edtnps82...
Thanks for help. It looks like this:
http://ca.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/pk1...c7.jpg&.src=ph
If it hadn't been for the years since I've posted to usenet, I woulda
remembered..the MORE information, the better! D'OH!
(I think I'm getting too old for this...)

"Ray L. Volts" wrote in message
news:kltXf.688$e11.534@trnddc02...

"Chris and Pamela" wrote in message
news:jabXf.14730$B_1.2482@edtnps89...
Hi,
The # t1.6l is on the fuse that blew in my Dell subwoofer. However, I
cannot
find sufficient evidence anywhere to indicate what the voltage and
amperage
is of this thing is. All of the charts I have found online are murky at
best
and the most compelling information I can find is that this is of Asian
origin. If anyone knows anything about this and could help me out, I
would
greatly appreciate it.

Thank you,
Pamela


The L indicates time Lag (a.k.a. Slo-Blo).

Does it look like this?

http://www.belfuse.com/Data/DBObject/MRT.pdf

If so:

www.digikey.com part #507-1113-ND ($0.75 each)

http://dkc3.digikey.com/PDF/T061/1350.pdf

In article t5FXf.327$4S.163@edtnps82,
"Chris and Pamela" wrote:

Sorry that link doesn't work. Here's one that does.
http://users.eastlink.ca/~chrisandpam/fuse3.jpg

*That* fuse looks like it's marked 2.5A. Is that or is that not the
exact fuse you're talking about?

"Smitty Two" wrote in message
news
In article t5FXf.327$4S.163@edtnps82,
"Chris and Pamela" wrote:

Sorry that link doesn't work. Here's one that does.
http://users.eastlink.ca/~chrisandpam/fuse3.jpg

*That* fuse looks like it's marked 2.5A. Is that or is that not the
exact fuse you're talking about?
and looking at the state of it replacing it wont make any difference its
blown quite convincingly not just a slight overload and I would bet the new
one will look the same a few microseconds after switch on

This is what it looks like,
http://home.columbus.rr.com/hillbillybuddha/fuse1.jpg this is the EXACT fuse
I'm referring to. It's from a Dell 5650 subwoofer. The fuse was replaced and
it now works fine, I just wanted to buy extras to have on hand, KWIM?

FWIW, the blown fuse was from a Sony subwoofer and has been replaced and
working fine now. The system was powered down at the time of the overload,
it was a surge from the power co that did it. Had to get our DVR replaced,
it even blew the streetlight. Everything is now on surge protectors, even
non-obvious stuff.


"Mr Fixit" wrote in message
...

"Smitty Two" wrote in message
news
In article t5FXf.327$4S.163@edtnps82,
"Chris and Pamela" wrote:

Sorry that link doesn't work. Here's one that does.
http://users.eastlink.ca/~chrisandpam/fuse3.jpg

*That* fuse looks like it's marked 2.5A. Is that or is that not the
exact fuse you're talking about?
and looking at the state of it replacing it wont make any difference its
blown quite convincingly not just a slight overload and I would bet the
new one will look the same a few microseconds after switch on

Smitty, I hear ya. God forbid the utility does anything wrong. It must be
YOUR fault, right? Sigh....

"Smitty Two" wrote in message
news
In article BITXf.16536$Ph4.14670@edtnps90,
"Chris and Pamela" wrote:

Everything is now on surge protectors, even
non-obvious stuff.



That should give you some peace of mind, although I remain skeptical
about the efficacy of those dime store models.

Thirty years ago I lost a television to lightning. Twenty years ago as I
was lying in bed drifting off the sleep during an electrical storm, I
recalled the previous incident and got up to disconnect my TV from the
antenna. I walked into the living room just in time to see the TV screen
light up like a giant flash bulb. I'm glad my fingers weren't on the
thing at the time.

The strike went through the TV tuner and into the 120 volt line. The TV
was toast, and a few other appliances too. Two outlets melted, and four
or five ceramic outlet covers throughout the house shattered. Two of the
rafters under the eaves, into which the antenna guy wires were bolted,
exploded.

LIghtning is, well, as quick as lightning. The strike blew past the
branch and main breakers of the house, leaving them untripped, and fried
the nearest pole mounted transformer, which only serves my house. I was
without power for three days. The electric utility kept telling me that
they had restored power to my neighborhood.

In article BITXf.16536$Ph4.14670@edtnps90,
"Chris and Pamela" wrote:

Everything is now on surge protectors, even
non-obvious stuff.



That should give you some peace of mind, although I remain skeptical
about the efficacy of those dime store models.

Thirty years ago I lost a television to lightning. Twenty years ago as I
was lying in bed drifting off the sleep during an electrical storm, I
recalled the previous incident and got up to disconnect my TV from the
antenna. I walked into the living room just in time to see the TV screen
light up like a giant flash bulb. I'm glad my fingers weren't on the
thing at the time.

The strike went through the TV tuner and into the 120 volt line. The TV
was toast, and a few other appliances too. Two outlets melted, and four
or five ceramic outlet covers throughout the house shattered. Two of the
rafters under the eaves, into which the antenna guy wires were bolted,
exploded.

LIghtning is, well, as quick as lightning. The strike blew past the
branch and main breakers of the house, leaving them untripped, and fried
the nearest pole mounted transformer, which only serves my house. I was
without power for three days. The electric utility kept telling me that
they had restored power to my neighborhood.

azz... the crt lite up as a bulb?
and it did not implode? ...