My 1997 vintage KV32S22 died completely during the final moments of the AFC
playoff game last month. After reading this group and a bunch of googles, I
decided to give repair a chance. A few minutes with a meter showed the
common failure mode of a shorted HOT (Q502) that killed the PS choppers
(Q601 &Q602) and the fusible resistor (R607). I replaced the failed
transistors with quality OEMs and R607 with a Sony OEM. I removed, cleaned,
and resoldered the HDT. The set now powers up, responds to the remote
(on/off, channel up/down, volume, mute, etc.), and provides sound but no
picture. The standby blinks at a constant rate which I understand means a
bus problem or IK issue. Since the remote functions, I'm assuming the issue
is IK.

I don't have an Oscope but I'd like to continue down a repair path. If the
IK issue is due to a bad tube (common on the 32" sets like mine) I guess it
means a new TV. Any easy way to test this? If not, what do I check next?
Any "most likely" part replacement for this condition?

Mike

J. Michael Milner wrote:
My 1997 vintage KV32S22 died completely during the final moments of the AFC
playoff game last month. After reading this group and a bunch of googles, I
decided to give repair a chance. A few minutes with a meter showed the
common failure mode of a shorted HOT (Q502) that killed the PS choppers
(Q601 &Q602) and the fusible resistor (R607). I replaced the failed
transistors with quality OEMs and R607 with a Sony OEM. I removed, cleaned,
and resoldered the HDT. The set now powers up, responds to the remote
(on/off, channel up/down, volume, mute, etc.), and provides sound but no
picture. The standby blinks at a constant rate which I understand means a
bus problem or IK issue. Since the remote functions, I'm assuming the issue
is IK.

I don't have an Oscope but I'd like to continue down a repair path. If the
IK issue is due to a bad tube (common on the 32" sets like mine) I guess it
means a new TV. Any easy way to test this? If not, what do I check next?
Any "most likely" part replacement for this condition?

Mike

if the picture was ok before the set died, then why do you think the
tube is suddenly to blame? I dont think that is likely. This could be
a missing voltage ( open resistor?) somewhere in or near the power
supply. did you move the crt neckboard? are all cables in the right
position after reassembly?
-B..

When you power the set on , do you hear the HV come up ( Static rush)

Are the filaments lighting on the CRT?


The only time CRT failures are common on these is when the set has alot of
hours on it.....like for the folks who leave it in all day long!

--
==========================
Jeff Stielau
Shoreline Electronics Repair
344 East Main Street
Clinton,CT 06413
860-399-1861
860-664-3535 (fax)

========================

"b" wrote in message
oups.com...

J. Michael Milner wrote:
My 1997 vintage KV32S22 died completely during the final moments of the
AFC
playoff game last month. After reading this group and a bunch of
googles, I
decided to give repair a chance. A few minutes with a meter showed the
common failure mode of a shorted HOT (Q502) that killed the PS choppers
(Q601 &Q602) and the fusible resistor (R607). I replaced the failed
transistors with quality OEMs and R607 with a Sony OEM. I removed,
cleaned,
and resoldered the HDT. The set now powers up, responds to the remote
(on/off, channel up/down, volume, mute, etc.), and provides sound but no
picture. The standby blinks at a constant rate which I understand means
a
bus problem or IK issue. Since the remote functions, I'm assuming the
issue
is IK.

I don't have an Oscope but I'd like to continue down a repair path. If
the
IK issue is due to a bad tube (common on the 32" sets like mine) I guess
it
means a new TV. Any easy way to test this? If not, what do I check
next?
Any "most likely" part replacement for this condition?

Mike

if the picture was ok before the set died, then why do you think the
tube is suddenly to blame? I dont think that is likely. This could be
a missing voltage ( open resistor?) somewhere in or near the power
supply. did you move the crt neckboard? are all cables in the right
position after reassembly?
-B..

"b" wrote in message
oups.com...

J. Michael Milner wrote:
My 1997 vintage KV32S22 died completely during the final moments of the
AFC
playoff game last month. After reading this group and a bunch of
googles, I
decided to give repair a chance. A few minutes with a meter showed the
common failure mode of a shorted HOT (Q502) that killed the PS choppers
(Q601 &Q602) and the fusible resistor (R607). I replaced the failed
transistors with quality OEMs and R607 with a Sony OEM. I removed,
cleaned,
and resoldered the HDT. The set now powers up, responds to the remote
(on/off, channel up/down, volume, mute, etc.), and provides sound but no
picture. The standby blinks at a constant rate which I understand means
a
bus problem or IK issue. Since the remote functions, I'm assuming the
issue
is IK.

I don't have an Oscope but I'd like to continue down a repair path. If
the
IK issue is due to a bad tube (common on the 32" sets like mine) I guess
it
means a new TV. Any easy way to test this? If not, what do I check
next?
Any "most likely" part replacement for this condition?

Mike

if the picture was ok before the set died, then why do you think the
tube is suddenly to blame? I dont think that is likely. This could be
a missing voltage ( open resistor?) somewhere in or near the power
supply. did you move the crt neckboard? are all cables in the right
position after reassembly?
-B..


I didn't see the picture tube as the set died (turned away during a
commercial or time-out) but the picture was OK up to then. The tube being
the initial source of the failure is just a guess based on what I've
summarized from google searches - 32" tubes seem to be a weak link for this
vintage of Sony TVs. Since the tube isn't a quick or cheap fix, I'd like to
rule it in or out before investing more in the repair process.

I did remove the crt neckboard as well as the anode cap to free the A board
from the chassis so I could get it to my workbench to do the parts
replacement. I've double-checked all the wire harness connections but I'll
triple-check again.

I see where the G board can be tested in isolation on this model so I'll
first check all the resistors and then see what the voltages are (one hand
in pocket).

Any other suggestions?

Mike

"Shoreline Electronics" wrote in message
om...
When you power the set on , do you hear the HV come up ( Static rush)

I pretty sure I hear the HV static rush (as sure as my aging ears allow).

Are the filaments lighting on the CRT?

Don't see any filament lighting. Do these come up right away when set is
powered on? Would they be shut down immediately due to the error (constant
blinking standby led)? Maybe I've lost one of the G board output voltages.
Time to read the CTV-24 manual?



The only time CRT failures are common on these is when the set has alot of
hours on it.....like for the folks who leave it in all day long!

I'm not a big TV viewer, certainly not of the all-day variety. I don't use
it for a night light either. Hopefully the tube has a few thousand more
hours of useful life.

Mike


--
==========================
Jeff Stielau
Shoreline Electronics Repair
344 East Main Street
Clinton,CT 06413
860-399-1861
860-664-3535 (fax)

========================

"b" wrote in message
oups.com...

J. Michael Milner wrote:
My 1997 vintage KV32S22 died completely during the final moments of the
AFC
playoff game last month. After reading this group and a bunch of
googles, I
decided to give repair a chance. A few minutes with a meter showed the
common failure mode of a shorted HOT (Q502) that killed the PS choppers
(Q601 &Q602) and the fusible resistor (R607). I replaced the failed
transistors with quality OEMs and R607 with a Sony OEM. I removed,
cleaned,
and resoldered the HDT. The set now powers up, responds to the remote
(on/off, channel up/down, volume, mute, etc.), and provides sound but
no
picture. The standby blinks at a constant rate which I understand
means
a
bus problem or IK issue. Since the remote functions, I'm assuming the
issue
is IK.

I don't have an Oscope but I'd like to continue down a repair path. If
the
IK issue is due to a bad tube (common on the 32" sets like mine) I
guess
it
means a new TV. Any easy way to test this? If not, what do I check
next?
Any "most likely" part replacement for this condition?

Mike

if the picture was ok before the set died, then why do you think the
tube is suddenly to blame? I dont think that is likely. This could be
a missing voltage ( open resistor?) somewhere in or near the power
supply. did you move the crt neckboard? are all cables in the right
position after reassembly?
-B..

Do you have a voltmeter? Measure the collector B+ on the Horizontal Output.
Careful! 130VDC and 1100V AC on there!

--
==========================
Jeff Stielau
Shoreline Electronics Repair
344 East Main Street
Clinton,CT 06413
860-399-1861
860-664-3535 (fax)

========================

"J. Michael Milner" wrote in message
...

"b" wrote in message
oups.com...

J. Michael Milner wrote:
My 1997 vintage KV32S22 died completely during the final moments of the
AFC
playoff game last month. After reading this group and a bunch of
googles, I
decided to give repair a chance. A few minutes with a meter showed the
common failure mode of a shorted HOT (Q502) that killed the PS choppers
(Q601 &Q602) and the fusible resistor (R607). I replaced the failed
transistors with quality OEMs and R607 with a Sony OEM. I removed,
cleaned,
and resoldered the HDT. The set now powers up, responds to the remote
(on/off, channel up/down, volume, mute, etc.), and provides sound but
no
picture. The standby blinks at a constant rate which I understand
means
a
bus problem or IK issue. Since the remote functions, I'm assuming the
issue
is IK.

I don't have an Oscope but I'd like to continue down a repair path. If
the
IK issue is due to a bad tube (common on the 32" sets like mine) I
guess
it
means a new TV. Any easy way to test this? If not, what do I check
next?
Any "most likely" part replacement for this condition?

Mike

if the picture was ok before the set died, then why do you think the
tube is suddenly to blame? I dont think that is likely. This could be
a missing voltage ( open resistor?) somewhere in or near the power
supply. did you move the crt neckboard? are all cables in the right
position after reassembly?
-B..


I didn't see the picture tube as the set died (turned away during a
commercial or time-out) but the picture was OK up to then. The tube being
the initial source of the failure is just a guess based on what I've
summarized from google searches - 32" tubes seem to be a weak link for
this
vintage of Sony TVs. Since the tube isn't a quick or cheap fix, I'd like
to
rule it in or out before investing more in the repair process.

I did remove the crt neckboard as well as the anode cap to free the A
board
from the chassis so I could get it to my workbench to do the parts
replacement. I've double-checked all the wire harness connections but
I'll
triple-check again.

I see where the G board can be tested in isolation on this model so I'll
first check all the resistors and then see what the voltages are (one hand
in pocket).

Any other suggestions?

Mike

"Shoreline Electronics" wrote in message
. com...
Do you have a voltmeter? Measure the collector B+ on the Horizontal
Output.
Careful! 130VDC and 1100V AC on there!

I have an HP 971A DMM that is rated to 1000V Ac and DC. Are you saying that
the collector of the HOT is at 1100V AC or 130V DC (or 1100V AC riding on
130V DC bias?).

I also have poor man's scope - a Tektronics 2510 multichannel waveform
analyzer - basically a very primitive multichannel data logger. It is
limited to +-100V AC and the sample rate is very low (maybe 50ksps).

I've also got a copy of the Sony training manual for the AA-2/BA-3 chassis.
Sadly my EE degree is 25 years older than the TV in question, so it may not
help much.

Mike


--
==========================
Jeff Stielau
Shoreline Electronics Repair
344 East Main Street
Clinton,CT 06413
860-399-1861
860-664-3535 (fax)

========================

"J. Michael Milner" wrote in message
...

"b" wrote in message
oups.com...

J. Michael Milner wrote:
My 1997 vintage KV32S22 died completely during the final moments of
the
AFC
playoff game last month. After reading this group and a bunch of
googles, I
decided to give repair a chance. A few minutes with a meter showed
the
common failure mode of a shorted HOT (Q502) that killed the PS
choppers
(Q601 &Q602) and the fusible resistor (R607). I replaced the failed
transistors with quality OEMs and R607 with a Sony OEM. I removed,
cleaned,
and resoldered the HDT. The set now powers up, responds to the
remote
(on/off, channel up/down, volume, mute, etc.), and provides sound but
no
picture. The standby blinks at a constant rate which I understand
means
a
bus problem or IK issue. Since the remote functions, I'm assuming
the
issue
is IK.

I don't have an Oscope but I'd like to continue down a repair path.
If
the
IK issue is due to a bad tube (common on the 32" sets like mine) I
guess
it
means a new TV. Any easy way to test this? If not, what do I check
next?
Any "most likely" part replacement for this condition?

Mike

if the picture was ok before the set died, then why do you think the
tube is suddenly to blame? I dont think that is likely. This could be
a missing voltage ( open resistor?) somewhere in or near the power
supply. did you move the crt neckboard? are all cables in the right
position after reassembly?
-B..


I didn't see the picture tube as the set died (turned away during a
commercial or time-out) but the picture was OK up to then. The tube
being
the initial source of the failure is just a guess based on what I've
summarized from google searches - 32" tubes seem to be a weak link for
this
vintage of Sony TVs. Since the tube isn't a quick or cheap fix, I'd
like
to
rule it in or out before investing more in the repair process.

I did remove the crt neckboard as well as the anode cap to free the A
board
from the chassis so I could get it to my workbench to do the parts
replacement. I've double-checked all the wire harness connections but
I'll
triple-check again.

I see where the G board can be tested in isolation on this model so I'll
first check all the resistors and then see what the voltages are (one
hand
in pocket).

Any other suggestions?

Mike

There is 1100VAC riding on the 130VDC.

Your meter should be OK for the task

--
==========================
Jeff Stielau
Shoreline Electronics Repair
344 East Main Street
Clinton,CT 06413
860-399-1861
860-664-3535 (fax)

========================

"J. Michael Milner" wrote in message
...

"Shoreline Electronics" wrote in message
. com...
Do you have a voltmeter? Measure the collector B+ on the Horizontal
Output.
Careful! 130VDC and 1100V AC on there!

I have an HP 971A DMM that is rated to 1000V Ac and DC. Are you saying
that
the collector of the HOT is at 1100V AC or 130V DC (or 1100V AC riding on
130V DC bias?).

I also have poor man's scope - a Tektronics 2510 multichannel waveform
analyzer - basically a very primitive multichannel data logger. It is
limited to +-100V AC and the sample rate is very low (maybe 50ksps).

I've also got a copy of the Sony training manual for the AA-2/BA-3
chassis.
Sadly my EE degree is 25 years older than the TV in question, so it may
not
help much.

Mike


--
==========================
Jeff Stielau
Shoreline Electronics Repair
344 East Main Street
Clinton,CT 06413
860-399-1861
860-664-3535 (fax)

========================

"J. Michael Milner" wrote in message
...

"b" wrote in message
oups.com...

J. Michael Milner wrote:
My 1997 vintage KV32S22 died completely during the final moments of
the
AFC
playoff game last month. After reading this group and a bunch of
googles, I
decided to give repair a chance. A few minutes with a meter showed
the
common failure mode of a shorted HOT (Q502) that killed the PS
choppers
(Q601 &Q602) and the fusible resistor (R607). I replaced the failed
transistors with quality OEMs and R607 with a Sony OEM. I removed,
cleaned,
and resoldered the HDT. The set now powers up, responds to the
remote
(on/off, channel up/down, volume, mute, etc.), and provides sound
but
no
picture. The standby blinks at a constant rate which I understand
means
a
bus problem or IK issue. Since the remote functions, I'm assuming
the
issue
is IK.

I don't have an Oscope but I'd like to continue down a repair path.
If
the
IK issue is due to a bad tube (common on the 32" sets like mine) I
guess
it
means a new TV. Any easy way to test this? If not, what do I check
next?
Any "most likely" part replacement for this condition?

Mike

if the picture was ok before the set died, then why do you think the
tube is suddenly to blame? I dont think that is likely. This could be
a missing voltage ( open resistor?) somewhere in or near the power
supply. did you move the crt neckboard? are all cables in the right
position after reassembly?
-B..


I didn't see the picture tube as the set died (turned away during a
commercial or time-out) but the picture was OK up to then. The tube
being
the initial source of the failure is just a guess based on what I've
summarized from google searches - 32" tubes seem to be a weak link for
this
vintage of Sony TVs. Since the tube isn't a quick or cheap fix, I'd
like
to
rule it in or out before investing more in the repair process.

I did remove the crt neckboard as well as the anode cap to free the A
board
from the chassis so I could get it to my workbench to do the parts
replacement. I've double-checked all the wire harness connections but
I'll
triple-check again.

I see where the G board can be tested in isolation on this model so
I'll
first check all the resistors and then see what the voltages are (one
hand
in pocket).

Any other suggestions?

Mike

On Tue, 21 Feb 2006 04:06:29 GMT, "Shoreline Electronics"
wrote:

Do you have a voltmeter? Measure the collector B+ on the Horizontal Output.
Careful! 130VDC and 1100V AC on there!

I would NOT try to measure the C of the HOT with a DMM. Those HV AC
spikes will damage many DMMs. It also might be possible for the
capacitance of the meter to damage the TV. If you have HV, there's no
need to measure this voltage.

If the heaters aren't lighting, but you have HV, then there must be an
open in the heater circuit. It's a simple circuit that goes from a
winding on the flyback to the CRT through a couple of resistors.
There should be two pins on the CRT socket labeled "H". There should
be low resistance between these two pins on the socket with the CRT
unplugged. The same pins on the CRT should also have low resistance
between them (a few ohms at most). You can also try measuring the
voltage between the two heater pins on the CRT board. Use a DMM in AC
volts mode. The number won't be meaningful unless you have a true RMS
meter, but it should be several volts. If you do have a true RMS
meter, it should be 6.3 V.
Andy Cuffe

In looking further at the A board, I find a 3 position lever switch labeled
"H-CENT-SW" (S501) about 1/2 way between Q501 and Q502 (E1 area). The
switch is currently in the center position.
I can't seem to find mention of this switch in the service manual (aside
from the parts list) or the training course (CTV-24 AA2). What does this
switch do in each of the three positions? What is the normal (in service,
non-test, etc.) position? I'd be very happy to find all I need to do to
finish my repair job is set this to the correct position, as I may have
disturbed it when removing the A board to replace Q502.


"J. Michael Milner" wrote in message
...
My 1997 vintage KV32S22 died completely during the final moments of the
AFC
playoff game last month. After reading this group and a bunch of googles,
I
decided to give repair a chance. A few minutes with a meter showed the
common failure mode of a shorted HOT (Q502) that killed the PS choppers
(Q601 &Q602) and the fusible resistor (R607). I replaced the failed
transistors with quality OEMs and R607 with a Sony OEM. I removed,
cleaned,
and resoldered the HDT. The set now powers up, responds to the remote
(on/off, channel up/down, volume, mute, etc.), and provides sound but no
picture. The standby blinks at a constant rate which I understand means a
bus problem or IK issue. Since the remote functions, I'm assuming the
issue
is IK.

I don't have an Oscope but I'd like to continue down a repair path. If
the
IK issue is due to a bad tube (common on the 32" sets like mine) I guess
it
means a new TV. Any easy way to test this? If not, what do I check next?
Any "most likely" part replacement for this condition?

Mike