Hi,

I am trying to replace some burnt out resistors on my neptune washer
motor control board. The board looks like
http://mlittle.com/appliance/neptune...components.htm. If
anyone has the board handy, I'd be much appreciated if you can read of
the resistor values of R34 and R35, and reply to this thread. A
resistor decoder can be found from
http://www.physics.udel.edu/~watson/phys345/decoder.


Resistor color code table is at
http://www.physics.udel.edu/~watson/...olor-code.html.


Or just reply the color codes of the resistors is also fine.


Thanks very much in advance,


P Boy

I'm looking at a Model AA19680 (P/N 6 2702240) motor control board from
my Neptune that had catastrophic failures of IC1, R13 & R19. I bought a
replacement and installed but I haven't gotten around to repairing this
one. As R19 is right next to it and burned beyond recognition, I'm
afraid IC8 on my board may be history as well.

Assuming that is the same model as yours, R34 & R35 are both 75 Ohm, 5%
(Violet - Green - Black - Gold) and are located near C19.

If you wouldn't mind reciprocating, what are the values for R13 and R19
on your board? I think IC1 is a IR 2101. My IC 8 is labeled
"185/1/V1-14, 0392838, DP44404, K9745" and I haven't had any luck
finding a source for it.

Hope this helps.

--
James T. White
"P Boy" wrote in message
ups.com...
Hi,

I am trying to replace some burnt out resistors on my neptune washer
motor control board. The board looks like
http://mlittle.com/appliance/neptune...components.htm. If
anyone has the board handy, I'd be much appreciated if you can read of
the resistor values of R34 and R35, and reply to this thread. A
resistor decoder can be found from
http://www.physics.udel.edu/~watson/phys345/decoder.


Resistor color code table is at
http://www.physics.udel.edu/~watson/...olor-code.html.


Or just reply the color codes of the resistors is also fine.


Thanks very much in advance,


P Boy

"P Boy" wrote in message
ups.com
James,

Thanks for the reply. On my board, R13 is 1K Ohm, and R19 is Red, Red,
Orange, Gold or 22K Ohm. However, the measured value of R19 is 11.5K.
Maybe this is due to parallel circuit.

You may try digikey.com for parts. Shipping is kind of high though.
You may also google for electronic component store in your area. I
just found such a store in San Jose http://www.acecomponents.com/,
which I am heading there right now.

Best Regards,
P Boy

Thanks for the resistor values. From the looks of how it is connected
and because it doesn't have a manufacturer's logo, I suspect that IC8 is
either a custom chip or a mask programmed microcontroller. In either
case, I'm likely out of luck finding one short of salvaging one off
another failed board.

--
James T. White

James,

My board model is AA20630 (P/N 6 2713980). My IC8 is SRD210\14V\V4. It
can be found from some distributors such as
http://www.1sourcecomponents.com,
http://www.searchlighttech.com/searchResults.cfm. But these require
minimum order of $150 or higher.

I am still searching...

My IC1, IC2 and IC3 are IR2101 0048.

I got a motor replacement kit from a colleague who had received an extra
one by mistake, the new motor uses a different type of tachometer so if
you get a new board you have to replace the motor unless you can figure
out how to convert the old one. I installed it myself since that's just
how I do things and the whole machine was free anyway, it was not difficult.

That's the only repair I've done on both Neptunes and the one I replaced
the board and motor on has been working now for a few months. The other
one I fixed by resoldering parts on the motor board has been working
longer so far. I fixed a Neptune for someone else that had the wax motor
fail and take out the triac on the control board, that was a more
straightforward repair as the wax motor is under $20 and nothing hard to
find fails on the control boards. One of the ones I got had had the wax
motor replaced already, the one I use in my house is original but I
expect to have to replace it at some point.


P Boy wrote:
James,

So far, I am unable to locate my IC8, which is only available by
distributors with minimum order of $150. IR2101 is available in
digikey.com though.

I further discovered that my C18 (47nJ100) and IC3 (IR2101 0048), both
are connected to R35, might have been damaged also.

I am thinking about getting the motor conversion kit, and have a few
more questions.

1. Did you buy the motor conversion kit or just the control board?
2. Did you install it yourself or repair-man? Reason for this is
regarding warranty.
3. Did you replace any other parts such as door lock assembly, machine
control board, etc?
4. How long have you had your machine fixed?
5. Have you had any other problems since then?

Regards,
P Boy

I performed some testing on IC3 and C18 to confirmed that they are
indeed damaged.

All pins in IC3 are short, whereas IC1 and IC2 are not.
C18 is short, whereas C10 and C14 are not.

IC8 (SRD210\14V\V4) pin3 to C27+ and pin4 to C27- is also short. Most
of IC8 pins are short. This is very likely that IC8 is bad.

It seems like I am out of luck here :-(. I just call Sears and they
have the motor conversion kit for $239 including tax/shipping.

Givin all the bad user experience with Neptune washers, I am not sure
if I want to try the expensive repair. BTW, my Neptune washer looks
like
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...t+Load+Washers.
Which I paid about $900 for it and recommend others to get alway from.

I do like front load washers though. I am planning get an LG wash as
seen from
http://newspaperads.mercurynews.com/...597522&t ype=.


Does anyone have any experiences with LG front load washers?

Thanks,
P Boy

"P Boy" wrote in message
oups.com
James,

So far, I am unable to locate my IC8, which is only available by
distributors with minimum order of $150. IR2101 is available in
digikey.com though.

I further discovered that my C18 (47nJ100) and IC3 (IR2101 0048), both
are connected to R35, might have been damaged also.

I am thinking about getting the motor conversion kit, and have a few
more questions.

1. Did you buy the motor conversion kit or just the control board?

The replacement motor controller board came with a new motor cable
assembly. The only differnce I could see was that the new cable
assembly was about 3 inches longer than the old one.

2. Did you install it yourself or repair-man? Reason for this is
regarding warranty.

I did the repairs my self and didn't worry about the warranty.

3. Did you replace any other parts such as door lock assembly, machine
control board, etc?

I've also replaced the machine control board and the door lock assembly.
The one thing I really hate about that model of Neptune is the stupid
wax motor that Maytag used in the door lock which when it fails burns
out a resistor on the control board about 50% or the time.

4. How long have you had your machine fixed?

Last repair was about 3 years ago and it has been working fine since.

5. Have you had any other problems since then?

Only with mildew on the rubber seal at the front of the tub. That is
taken care of by spraying every couple of weeks with Tilex or Chlorox.
There is also a bit of rust on the inside of the case near the water
fill.


Regards,
P Boy

--
James T. White

I've also replaced the machine control board and the door lock assembly.
The one thing I really hate about that model of Neptune is the stupid
wax motor that Maytag used in the door lock which when it fails burns
out a resistor on the control board about 50% or the time.



It burns out the triac which controls it, which also takes out the
resistor. Fortunately about $1 worth of parts fixes it, I use a much
more robust 600V 10A TO-220 case triac in place of the little plastic
TO-92 300mA 400V one.

James T. White,

Thanks for taking the time to answer all my questions. I really
appreciate that.

If you don't mind, I have a few more questions.

1. Which model of Neptune do you have? Mine is MAH5500BWW and it looks
exactly like
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...APPL&ihtoken=1

1.a Is yours different?

2. When did you purchase the original wash machine? I bought mine in
summer of 2001. I am still evaluating the possibility of replacing the
motor/board and trying estimate how long it will last after the repair.

I have never noticed any mildew on my machine. I have also performed
all the board control tests and my "machine" control board seems to
work fine. It visually looks ok too. As of this writing, on my motor
control board, R34, R35, Q5, IC3, IC18 and the 10Amp fuse are damaged.
IC18 is the part that I can't find (well cheap) :-(

3. Do you know what might cause the "motor" control board to fail?

4. Have you noticed any other difference on your replacement part, such
as board layout, ICs, etc.?

5. I found from other thread that the replacement motor is quieter.
It's true on you case?

Thanks again,
P Boy

P.S. James Sweet, your technical information is much appreciated as
well. I will consider the 600V triac if I get this thing to work again.

"P Boy" wrote in message
oups.com
James T. White,

Thanks for taking the time to answer all my questions. I really
appreciate that.

If you don't mind, I have a few more questions.

1. Which model of Neptune do you have? Mine is MAH5500BWW and it looks
exactly like

http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...APPL&ihtoken=1

1.a Is yours different?

Mine is the earlier model MAH3000AWW and was bought in 1999.

2. When did you purchase the original wash machine? I bought mine in
summer of 2001. I am still evaluating the possibility of replacing the
motor/board and trying estimate how long it will last after the
repair.

I have never noticed any mildew on my machine. I have also performed
all the board control tests and my "machine" control board seems to
work fine. It visually looks ok too. As of this writing, on my motor
control board, R34, R35, Q5, IC3, IC18 and the 10Amp fuse are damaged.
IC18 is the part that I can't find (well cheap) :-(

It has been a while and I can't find the receipt, but I think my
replacement motor control assembly cost less than $150, so you might
check the price for a whole replacement module. I bought mine from a
local (Houston, TX) parts distributor that sells to the trade.
Strangely enough I was referred there by a Maytag repair shop.

3. Do you know what might cause the "motor" control board to fail?

Other than poor design or a batch of bad parts, the only thing that I
can see that would make the MCB fail would be voltage spikes. That part
takes 120VAC directly off the mains so it is susceptible.

4. Have you noticed any other difference on your replacement part,
such as board layout, ICs, etc.?

The replacement boards looked identical (mounting and general component
layout, although I didn't do a detailed comparison.

5. I found from other thread that the replacement motor is quieter.
It's true on you case?

I didn't have to replace my motor. My motor checked OK with an ohmeter.
Three coils of equal resistance and no shorts from the coils to case
ground. I can't remember exactly how I checked the motor tachometer
circuitry but it seems like the repair sheet that came inside my machine
pretty well led me to replacing just the motor control board.

Thanks again,
P Boy

P.S. James Sweet, your technical information is much appreciated as
well. I will consider the 600V triac if I get this thing to work
again.

Mr. Sweet's advise appears sound. Just be sure that you check the
datasheets for both the TO-92 and TO-220 packages and get the pins in
the right places. Using a little higher wattage resistor might also
make some sense.

Good luck with your repairs and let us know how it turns out.

--
James T. White

1. Which model of Neptune do you have? Mine is MAH5500BWW and it looks
exactly like
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...APPL&ihtoken=1

1.a Is yours different?


I believe mine is MAH4000BWW and the one I gave my mom is a 4500. They
share the same basic mechanical structure and electronics as the rest of
the Neptunes in that series including yours. Differences are only in the
various bells & whistles, the motor and main control boards are identical.


2. When did you purchase the original wash machine? I bought mine in
summer of 2001. I am still evaluating the possibility of replacing the
motor/board and trying estimate how long it will last after the repair.


I didn't purchase either of them, I picked them up from people who for
some reason decided it was better to spend $1000 on a new machine than
$200-$300 fixing the one they had, in all fairness, one of them was
quoted $450 to do the job but if you're handy with basic hand tools and
can read directions you can easily do the job yourself. The first one I
got about 6 months ago, the other was put into service in early January.
The colleague who gave me the motor kit had his machine repaired in late
2001 and he said it hasn't failed since. He has kids so it gets a lot of
use, seems the redesigned components did in fact fix the problem.

I have never noticed any mildew on my machine. I have also performed
all the board control tests and my "machine" control board seems to
work fine. It visually looks ok too. As of this writing, on my motor
control board, R34, R35, Q5, IC3, IC18 and the 10Amp fuse are damaged.
IC18 is the part that I can't find (well cheap) :-(


One of the ones I got had mildew in it when I got it, presumably from
sitting in the person's garage for a couple months before they got rid
of it. I wiped down the door seal with some 409 and ran a load of just a
few old rags with the bleach dispenser filled and that took care of it,
haven't had any return yet.

3. Do you know what might cause the "motor" control board to fail?


Some have said power surges, my own diagnosis is poor soldering which
caused intermittent connections. This is made worse by exposure to heavy
vibration in the spin cycle. In the case of the first machine it simply
stopped working until I resoldered it, on the other, as often happens
with TV sets and other relatively high power electronics, the bad
connections caused a component to fail, which started a big chain
reaction destroying most of the semiconductors on the board. The
replacement board is of a completely different design, it uses surface
mount parts and appears to have better soldering. It's also enclosed in
a strange mounting box to protect it from vibration and damage.


4. Have you noticed any other difference on your replacement part, such
as board layout, ICs, etc.?


See above, the replacement motor board looks completely different, side
by side you'd never know they were the same thing.

5. I found from other thread that the replacement motor is quieter.
It's true on you case?


Yes, much quieter, the first time I heard it I wondered if something was
still wrong with my machine which has the original setup. The new motor
is virtually silent, all you hear is the water sloshing around and
occasionally a bit of a "sticky" sound from the belt rolling on the
pulley. I do sort of like the jet engine spooling sound mine makes when
it does the spin cycle though, the new motor doesn't do that.



P.S. James Sweet, your technical information is much appreciated as
well. I will consider the 600V triac if I get this thing to work again.


It was just what I had on hand, you can get something similar at Radio
Shack though or if you can't find one I can send you one as I have a
whole tube of them I bought on Ebay for other projects. You have to
transpose two of the pins to make it fit where the old part was but that
isn't hard to do and it works well.

I didn't purchase either of them, I picked them up from people who for
some reason decided it was better to spend $1000 on a new machine than
$200-$300 fixing the one they had, in all fairness, one of them was
quoted $450 to do the job but if you're handy with basic hand tools and
can read directions you can easily do the job yourself. The first one I
got about 6 months ago, the other was put into service in early January.
The colleague who gave me the motor kit had his machine repaired in late
2001 and he said it hasn't failed since. He has kids so it gets a lot of
use, seems the redesigned components did in fact fix the problem.



Oops, that must have been late 2002, I remember him explaining the whole
ordeal with the warranty service and I remember what we were doing in
work at the time but for some reason things get a bit blurry when it
comes to remembering what year it was. Maybe I'm getting old...

I just had a problem with my motor control board. I need to replace
the fuse and a small capacitor.

I can not get the fuse out of the holder. Does it have to be
desodered from the board?

Also, the capacitor is labeled D473K R97. I can't find the exact
replacement anywhere. Do you know if a green cap 473K available from
Radio Shack will work?

Thanks

In data Sat, 17 Jun 2006 08:20:54 +0200, Epriego ha
scritto:

I just had a problem with my motor control board. I need to replace
the fuse and a small capacitor.

I can not get the fuse out of the holder. Does it have to be
desodered from the board?

?? Fuse burned into holder? Desolder and replace holder and fuse

Also, the capacitor is labeled D473K R97. I can't find the exact
replacement anywhere. Do you know if a green cap 473K available from
Radio Shack will work?

Yes.

Thanks




--
Inty.Evolution
- per email normali e con immagini Jpeg

Epriego wrote:
I just had a problem with my motor control board. I need to replace
the fuse and a small capacitor.

I can not get the fuse out of the holder. Does it have to be
desodered from the board?

Also, the capacitor is labeled D473K R97. I can't find the exact
replacement anywhere. Do you know if a green cap 473K available from
Radio Shack will work?

Thanks



The fuse is soldered in place, if it's blown then you almost certainly
have several shorted power MOSFETs, and given the way the board is
designed it probably blew up the main controller IC too.

I also have a Maytag Neptune Washer; model MAH4000AWW. Resistor R11
is burnt out . IF anyone can give me the value or color of it, I'd
really appreciate it. TIA.

gman wrote:
I also have a Maytag Neptune Washer; model MAH4000AWW. Resistor R11
is burnt out . IF anyone can give me the value or color of it, I'd
really appreciate it. TIA.

Hi gman...

I should perhaps have mentioned in my previous message...
(see Beaumark clothes dryer) and it might be helpful
to you with your problem...

When I removed the control panel, I was pleasantly surprised
to find a rolled up "schematic" in there. Schematic in quotes,
'cause it is really a pictorial. Didn't refer to my
problem with other than a square box marked timer control
module, but there was a bit of information (including values)
on the operational part.

It may be worth your while to search your machine to see if there
isn't one.

Another thought, if I may? How's 'bout calling your local
Maytag repairman, ask them if you can buy R11. Maybe they'll
sell you one at a premium - or maybe just tell you what it is.
Worth a try?

Take care.

Ken