Electronics Repair (sci.electronics.repair) Discussion of repairing electronic equipment. Topics include requests for assistance, where to obtain servicing information and parts, techniques for diagnosis and repair, and annecdotes about success, failures and problems.

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  #1   Report Post  
Darmok
 
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Default replacing batteries in Norelco shaver

Hi,

I've got an older Norelco electric shaver, which has some kind of
'fast charge' ni-cads in it (haven't looked, but that's pretty much
what they had when it was made). Normally, it will recharge in about
20 minutes or so. Well, after all these years, one or both batteries
is dying, and I need to replace them. I was thinking of just putting
in a couple of Ni-MH cells (these are 'AA' size), because I know that
they can handle a higher charge rate than standard ni-cads. I've got
some extras of both, but no 'high charge rate' ni-cads (although, I'm
pretty sure I could get some at Tower Hobbies, or similar R/C model
shop).

Anyone ever replace batteries in a Norelco (or other brand) shaver?
Anything I should be aware of or watch out for? Seems like it should
be a pretty straight forward procedure.

TIA

  #2   Report Post  
Jim Yanik
 
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Default

Darmok wrote in
:

Hi,

I've got an older Norelco electric shaver, which has some kind of
'fast charge' ni-cads in it (haven't looked, but that's pretty much
what they had when it was made). Normally, it will recharge in about
20 minutes or so. Well, after all these years, one or both batteries
is dying, and I need to replace them. I was thinking of just putting
in a couple of Ni-MH cells (these are 'AA' size), because I know that
they can handle a higher charge rate than standard ni-cads. I've got
some extras of both, but no 'high charge rate' ni-cads (although, I'm
pretty sure I could get some at Tower Hobbies, or similar R/C model
shop).

Anyone ever replace batteries in a Norelco (or other brand) shaver?
Anything I should be aware of or watch out for? Seems like it should
be a pretty straight forward procedure.

TIA



NiMH cells have a more complicated charge requirement than NiCd.
Unless you plan on designing a new charger,you should only replace with
NiCd cells similar to what you removed.

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net
  #3   Report Post  
Ken Weitzel
 
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Darmok wrote:
Hi,

I've got an older Norelco electric shaver, which has some kind of
'fast charge' ni-cads in it (haven't looked, but that's pretty much
what they had when it was made). Normally, it will recharge in about
20 minutes or so. Well, after all these years, one or both batteries
is dying, and I need to replace them. I was thinking of just putting
in a couple of Ni-MH cells (these are 'AA' size), because I know that
they can handle a higher charge rate than standard ni-cads. I've got
some extras of both, but no 'high charge rate' ni-cads (although, I'm
pretty sure I could get some at Tower Hobbies, or similar R/C model
shop).

Anyone ever replace batteries in a Norelco (or other brand) shaver?
Anything I should be aware of or watch out for? Seems like it should
be a pretty straight forward procedure.

TIA


Hi...

I'm in Canada, where Norelco is called Phillips, and I have
one (though there are so many models)

The heads-up I'd offer is to measure the cells carefully
before you get it too far apart at an inconvenient time...
mine has one of the sub-C variations, which is physically
just a little shorter than a AA. Shorter enough that you
can't get it in and still put it back together

Take care.

Ken

  #4   Report Post  
Bill Janssen
 
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Darmok wrote:

Hi,

I've got an older Norelco electric shaver, which has some kind of
'fast charge' ni-cads in it (haven't looked, but that's pretty much
what they had when it was made). Normally, it will recharge in about
20 minutes or so. Well, after all these years, one or both batteries
is dying, and I need to replace them. I was thinking of just putting
in a couple of Ni-MH cells (these are 'AA' size), because I know that
they can handle a higher charge rate than standard ni-cads. I've got
some extras of both, but no 'high charge rate' ni-cads (although, I'm
pretty sure I could get some at Tower Hobbies, or similar R/C model
shop).

Anyone ever replace batteries in a Norelco (or other brand) shaver?
Anything I should be aware of or watch out for? Seems like it should
be a pretty straight forward procedure.

TIA



I replaced the NiCads with new NicCads. No problems after about a year.
Don't remember for sure what size they were but I think they were sub-C.

Bill K7NOM
  #5   Report Post  
Tom S
 
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Default

"Jim Yanik" . wrote in message .. .
Darmok wrote in
:

Hi,

I've got an older Norelco electric shaver, which has some kind of
'fast charge' ni-cads in it (haven't looked, but that's pretty much
what they had when it was made). Normally, it will recharge in about
20 minutes or so. Well, after all these years, one or both batteries
is dying, and I need to replace them. I was thinking of just putting
in a couple of Ni-MH cells (these are 'AA' size), because I know that
they can handle a higher charge rate than standard ni-cads. I've got
some extras of both, but no 'high charge rate' ni-cads (although, I'm
pretty sure I could get some at Tower Hobbies, or similar R/C model
shop).

Anyone ever replace batteries in a Norelco (or other brand) shaver?
Anything I should be aware of or watch out for? Seems like it should
be a pretty straight forward procedure.

TIA



NiMH cells have a more complicated charge requirement than NiCd.


Jim, could you be more specific? Not to hijack anyone's thread,
but we recently replaced a 3.6V NiCd cordless phone battery
pack (600mAh) with 1300mAh NiMH's, and plan to use the
phone's base (150mV input) to recharge it. If we're careful to
time the recharges properly, what other complications could
there be?




  #6   Report Post  
 
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TomS:
The main complication would be very short battery life.
electricitym
'
'
'

  #7   Report Post  
Hugh Prescott
 
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Default


"Darmok" wrote in message
...
Hi,

I've got an older Norelco electric shaver, which has some kind of
'fast charge' ni-cads in it (haven't looked, but that's pretty much
what they had when it was made). Normally, it will recharge in about
20 minutes or so. Well, after all these years, one or both batteries
is dying, and I need to replace them. I was thinking of just putting
in a couple of Ni-MH cells (these are 'AA' size), because I know that
they can handle a higher charge rate than standard ni-cads. I've got
some extras of both, but no 'high charge rate' ni-cads (although, I'm
pretty sure I could get some at Tower Hobbies, or similar R/C model
shop).

Anyone ever replace batteries in a Norelco (or other brand) shaver?
Anything I should be aware of or watch out for? Seems like it should
be a pretty straight forward procedure.

TIA


Use nicads with solder tabs. Get then at a hobby shop that supports Radio
Control models.

Have changed mine several times no problems.

Hugh


  #8   Report Post  
Jim Yanik
 
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"Tom S" wrote in
nk.net:

"Jim Yanik" . wrote in message
.. .
Darmok wrote in
:

Hi,

I've got an older Norelco electric shaver, which has some kind of
'fast charge' ni-cads in it (haven't looked, but that's pretty much
what they had when it was made). Normally, it will recharge in
about 20 minutes or so. Well, after all these years, one or both
batteries is dying, and I need to replace them. I was thinking of
just putting in a couple of Ni-MH cells (these are 'AA' size),
because I know that they can handle a higher charge rate than
standard ni-cads. I've got some extras of both, but no 'high
charge rate' ni-cads (although, I'm pretty sure I could get some at
Tower Hobbies, or similar R/C model shop).

Anyone ever replace batteries in a Norelco (or other brand) shaver?
Anything I should be aware of or watch out for? Seems like it
should be a pretty straight forward procedure.

TIA



NiMH cells have a more complicated charge requirement than NiCd.


Jim, could you be more specific? Not to hijack anyone's thread,
but we recently replaced a 3.6V NiCd cordless phone battery
pack (600mAh) with 1300mAh NiMH's, and plan to use the
phone's base (150mV input)


I hope you mean "mA".

to recharge it. If we're careful to
time the recharges properly, what other complications could
there be?



Well,your cells usually still have a partial charge of unknown amount,and
thus charging for the "standard time" will overcharge the cells.
A proper charger will monitor the charge voltage and look for the small V
drop as the cells reach full charge,regardless of the original charge left
on the cells,maximizing cell life.

That's why they are "smart" chargers.
And from what I've read,you can leave the pack on the charger even after it
is fully charged. No "forgetting" and overcharging.

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net
  #9   Report Post  
Ken G.
 
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Yes i have . I have an older 3 head shaver and removed the 2 old AA
batterys and soldered in 2 ordinary Hi-MH AA cells about a year or so
ago and the thing has worked just fine , it does not overheat or act
funny in any way .

  #10   Report Post  
mike
 
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Default

Darmok wrote:
Hi,

I've got an older Norelco electric shaver, which has some kind of
'fast charge' ni-cads in it (haven't looked, but that's pretty much
what they had when it was made). Normally, it will recharge in about
20 minutes or so. Well, after all these years, one or both batteries
is dying, and I need to replace them. I was thinking of just putting
in a couple of Ni-MH cells (these are 'AA' size), because I know that
they can handle a higher charge rate than standard ni-cads. I've got
some extras of both, but no 'high charge rate' ni-cads (although, I'm
pretty sure I could get some at Tower Hobbies, or similar R/C model
shop).

Anyone ever replace batteries in a Norelco (or other brand) shaver?
Anything I should be aware of or watch out for? Seems like it should
be a pretty straight forward procedure.

TIA


Call up a norelco shaver repair place. I don't remember the number,
but I do remember being amazed at how low their battery prices were.
I'd just been thru the hassle of replacing cells and would have just bought
them from Norelco had I realized they were affordable. YMMV
mike

--
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with links. Delete this sig when replying.
..
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htremovethistp://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Monitor/4710/



  #11   Report Post  
Darmok
 
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On Thu, 25 Aug 2005 18:55:43 -0400, Darmok
wrote:

Hi,

I've got an older Norelco electric shaver, which has some kind of
'fast charge' ni-cads in it (haven't looked, but that's pretty much
what they had when it was made). Normally, it will recharge in about
20 minutes or so. Well, after all these years, one or both batteries
is dying, and I need to replace them. I was thinking of just putting
in a couple of Ni-MH cells (these are 'AA' size), because I know that
they can handle a higher charge rate than standard ni-cads. I've got
some extras of both, but no 'high charge rate' ni-cads (although, I'm
pretty sure I could get some at Tower Hobbies, or similar R/C model
shop).

Anyone ever replace batteries in a Norelco (or other brand) shaver?
Anything I should be aware of or watch out for? Seems like it should
be a pretty straight forward procedure.

TIA


Thanks for all the input .. very helpful indeed!

Bill, KB8EB
  #12   Report Post  
H. Dziardziel
 
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On Thu, 25 Aug 2005 18:55:43 -0400, Darmok
wrote:



Charging in only 20 minutes is a 3C charge rate ie, three times
the cell mAh capacity. Shaver NiCads would be in the 500m-1000Ah
range. NiMh 2000-2600mAh AAs can handle that 1500-2000mA charge
rate but must not go over full charge or will be destroyed.

The question is: is that a timed 20 minutes or a "smart" 20
minutes? If timed and one starts with fully discharged cells
then all is well. NiMh have no memory effect so can be charged
and dicharged from-to any level But, if a smart charger is used,
it may not properly detect the NiMh charge state and keep charging
past fully charged.

For say, 1500mAh cells, that would take about one hour however so
manul timing would suffice. Monitoring the cell temperature is a
good idea. Some heating while charging is normal for NiMh but
after full charge is reached it quickly ruins the cells.

  #13   Report Post  
Jim Yanik
 
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H. Dziardziel wrote in
:

On Thu, 25 Aug 2005 18:55:43 -0400, Darmok
wrote:



Charging in only 20 minutes is a 3C charge rate ie, three times
the cell mAh capacity. Shaver NiCads would be in the 500m-1000Ah
range. NiMh 2000-2600mAh AAs can handle that 1500-2000mA charge
rate but must not go over full charge or will be destroyed.

The question is: is that a timed 20 minutes or a "smart" 20
minutes? If timed and one starts with fully discharged cells
then all is well. NiMh have no memory effect so can be charged
and dicharged from-to any level But, if a smart charger is used,
it may not properly detect the NiMh charge state and keep charging
past fully charged.

For say, 1500mAh cells, that would take about one hour however so
manul timing would suffice. Monitoring the cell temperature is a
good idea. Some heating while charging is normal for NiMh but
after full charge is reached it quickly ruins the cells.



According to what I've read here and there,cell temperature is NOT a good
way to detect full charge for NiMH cells. For NiCd,its OK.
By the time the temp changes the NiMH cell is overcharged.

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net
  #14   Report Post  
gb
 
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Default

"mike" wrote in message
...
Darmok wrote:
Hi,

I've got an older Norelco electric shaver, which has some kind of
'fast charge' ni-cads in it (haven't looked, but that's pretty much
what they had when it was made). Normally, it will recharge in about
20 minutes or so. Well, after all these years, one or both batteries
is dying, and I need to replace them. I was thinking of just putting
in a couple of Ni-MH cells (these are 'AA' size), because I know that
they can handle a higher charge rate than standard ni-cads. I've got
some extras of both, but no 'high charge rate' ni-cads (although, I'm
pretty sure I could get some at Tower Hobbies, or similar R/C model
shop).

Anyone ever replace batteries in a Norelco (or other brand) shaver?
Anything I should be aware of or watch out for? Seems like it should
be a pretty straight forward procedure.

TIA


Call up a norelco shaver repair place. I don't remember the number,
but I do remember being amazed at how low their battery prices were.
I'd just been thru the hassle of replacing cells and would have just
bought
them from Norelco had I realized they were affordable. YMMV
mike


I have one (Norelco repair facility) here locally -- still repair very old
models and parts are very inexpensive (sometime cheaper than the department
store batteries).

gb


  #15   Report Post  
H. Dziardziel
 
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On 27 Aug 2005 05:04:45 GMT, Jim Yanik . wrote:

For say, 1500mAh cells


A typo, "1500mAh cells" should read "1500mA."

, that would take about one hour however so
manul timing would suffice. Monitoring the cell temperature is a
good idea. Some heating while charging is normal for NiMh but
after full charge is reached it quickly ruins the cells.



According to what I've read here and there,cell temperature is NOT a good
way to detect full charge for NiMH cells. For NiCd,its OK.
By the time the temp changes the NiMH cell is overcharged.


My post was poorly worded thanks. My "monitoring the cell
temperature" along with "some heating" was to imply hand sensing
as a very simple check of what's going on in the cells if they
have charged for more than 20 minutes or from an unknown charge
state..

The assumption was the shaver does not use temperature sensing
except for catastrophic shutoff and if a smart 20 minute charger
it is of course designed for NiCad characteristics so may not ever
shut off.

Unlike NiCads, NiMh are exothermic while charging so will get
warm, especially at this rather high charge rate.. Once fully
charged however the temperature (T) rises sharply after the very
small voltage drop that indicate full charge . The problem is
this short delay and the electronics and packaging usually getting
warm along with ambient variations. So, as you say, it's not
usually used since difficult to detect reliably.

NiCads, being endothermic are more reliably temperature end of
charge detected since the T change is sharper. In either case,
_hot_ cells indicate overcharging

Regards..


  #16   Report Post  
Darmok
 
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Default

On Sat, 27 Aug 2005 08:13:30 +0900, H. Dziardziel
wrote:

On Thu, 25 Aug 2005 18:55:43 -0400, Darmok
wrote:



Charging in only 20 minutes is a 3C charge rate ie, three times
the cell mAh capacity. Shaver NiCads would be in the 500m-1000Ah
range. NiMh 2000-2600mAh AAs can handle that 1500-2000mA charge
rate but must not go over full charge or will be destroyed.

The question is: is that a timed 20 minutes or a "smart" 20
minutes? If timed and one starts with fully discharged cells
then all is well. NiMh have no memory effect so can be charged
and dicharged from-to any level But, if a smart charger is used,
it may not properly detect the NiMh charge state and keep charging
past fully charged.

For say, 1500mAh cells, that would take about one hour however so
manul timing would suffice. Monitoring the cell temperature is a
good idea. Some heating while charging is normal for NiMh but
after full charge is reached it quickly ruins the cells.


Well, I did as someone suggested, and "Googled" for "Norelco battery
replacements". I found a place that carries replacements for almost
all versions of the Norelco shavers. When I looked up my model number
(4845XL) it showed them as a pair of AA NiMH batteries! When I looked
at the actual cells in the shaver, they were a pair of 600mah Ni-Cds.
So, since I have a lot of NiMH cells around (for digital cameras and
hobby use), I decided to solder in a couple of them and see what
happens.

The first thing I noticed was that, for the first time in years, the
RED charge LED came on (for a few minutes) as well as the GREEN LED.
It then proceeded to charge for about 20 minutes, then the GREEN LED
began flashing, and I knew charging had stopped. The case of the
shaver felt warm, but not as warm as when there were Ni-Cds in there.
I've been using it now for a couple days, and it has plenty of zip,
and sounds real good (by the pitch of the motor). BTW, I assume that
there is some kind of "smart charging" going on, as if I were to plug
it in after only a couple days, it would shut off (green LED blinking)
after only a few minutes. Maybe its voltage based?

I guess I'll know how well, this works after some time has expired,
but for now, it appears to be working well. BTW, I have 2 Norelco
shavers, and this is the older of the 2. I use one until it runs
down, then grab the other one, and put the exhausted one on charge.

Thanks again ..

Bill, KB8EB
  #17   Report Post  
Doug McLaren
 
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In article .com,
wrote:

| The main complication would be very short battery life.

As you hinted at, that depends on the charger.

Most cheap rechargable appliances have a slow charger that charge the
battery at around C/10. If you replace 600 mAh AA NiCds with 2400 mAh
AA NiMH cells, the charger will work just fine, except that it's now
charging at a C/40 rate -- which is slow enough that the incresaed
self discharge of the NiMH cells will become an issue, but it'll
probably work just fine. (It might not ever fully charge the
batteries though. But it should be OK anyways.)

You really only have to worry about the charger if it 1) only charges
for X hours, which would mean that it won't fully charge the new,
larger battery unless you unplug it and plug it back in after X hours,
or 2) is a fast peak-detecting charger, as NiMH cells have a similar
peak to NiCds, but it's smaller.

In my experience, most cheap devices that have NiCd or NiMH cells have
slow chargers that will work fine with either. Only the higher
quality ones have things that actually detect when the battery is
actually fully charged -- things like better power tools and the like.
(And of course, anything with LiPo cells. Overcharging them is bad.
But LiPo cells don't fit within the `NiCd or NiMH' classification I
mentioned earlier.)

--
Doug McLaren,
It's hard to be nostalgic when you can't remember anything. --Unknown
  #18   Report Post  
Doug McLaren
 
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In article ,
Doug McLaren wrote:

| Most cheap rechargable appliances have a slow charger that charge the
| battery at around C/10.

Of course, since the original poster says it charges the batteries in
20 minutes, obviously it doesn't fall into this category.

It would be best to replace those batteries with similar batteries.

Modern NiMH cells will tolerate overcharge almost as well as NiCd
cells, but they don't like being charged at over 1C rates, except for
the sub-C cells which can go a bit higher, probably 2C.

As another poster suggested, if they're sub-C cells, get them at a
hobby store that sells R/C stuff. You can buy them online too easily
enough -- www.radicalrc.com is one of my favorite places.

Places like Batteries Plus probably have what you need too, but their
prices are generally quite high.

--
Doug McLaren,
"The wheel is spinning but the hamster is dead."
  #19   Report Post  
Doug McLaren
 
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In article ,
H. Dziardziel wrote:

| On 27 Aug 2005 05:04:45 GMT, Jim Yanik . wrote:
|
| For say, 1500mAh cells
|
| A typo, "1500mAh cells" should read "1500mA."

Are you sure? 1500 mAh seems right to me. You're talking about the
capacity of the cell itself, not the discharge rate, right?

Capacity is given in mAh. Charge/Discharge rates in mA.

| Unlike NiCads, NiMh are exothermic while charging so will get
| warm, especially at this rather high charge rate..

NiCds get warm during charging too. Just not as warm, due to their
generally lower internal resistance.

| Once fully charged however the temperature (T) rises sharply after
| the very small voltage drop that indicate full charge.

Same with NiCd and NiMH cells -- it's just that with NiMH cells, the
voltage drop is smaller.

| NiCads, being endothermic are more reliably temperature end of
| charge detected since the T change is sharper. In either case,
| _hot_ cells indicate overcharging

Endothermic? No way.

Apparantly there is an endothermic component to the chemical charging
process (and I see references to that in many places) but the current
going through the internal resistance will generate heat as well, and
from what I've seen, the overall temperature _increases_ as you
charge, even for NiCds, during the entire charge cycle, even when
you're not charging at an extremely high rate. (Of course, if you're
charging at a low rate, any temperature changes are hard to detect, at
least until the cell is fully charged, where it becomes much easier as
all energy is going into heat, not just some.)

Perhaps at low charge rates the endothermic component is slightly
stronger than the exothermic heating, but if you're charging a NiCd
battery in 20 minutes -- at a 3C rate -- no way. It's going to get
warm.

--
Doug McLaren, Baby carrots: vegetarian veal
  #20   Report Post  
H. Dziardziel
 
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On Wed, 31 Aug 2005 16:48:11 GMT, (Doug McLaren)
wrote:

In article ,
H. Dziardziel wrote:

| On 27 Aug 2005 05:04:45 GMT, Jim Yanik . wrote:
|
| For say, 1500mAh cells
|
| A typo, "1500mAh cells" should read "1500mA."

Are you sure? 1500 mAh seems right to me. You're talking about the
capacity of the cell itself, not the discharge rate, right?


The 1500mA was an estimated 3C charge rate for the original
NiCads, hence the following words "..that would take about one
hour.." (to begin to fully charge the new high capacity NiMh etc).

Capacity is given in mAh. Charge/Discharge rates in mA.


Well, I do believe that strikes a note but thanks for the reminder
to be more alert. Sigh.

| Unlike NiCads, NiMh are exothermic while charging so will get
| warm, especially at this rather high charge rate..

NiCds get warm during charging too. Just not as warm, due to their
generally lower internal resistance.

| Once fully charged however the temperature (T) rises sharply after
| the very small voltage drop that indicate full charge.

Same with NiCd and NiMH cells -- it's just that with NiMH cells, the
voltage drop is smaller.

| NiCads, being endothermic are more reliably temperature end of
| charge detected since the T change is sharper. In either case,
| _hot_ cells indicate overcharging

Endothermic? No way.

Apparantly there is an endothermic component to the chemical charging
process (and I see references to that in many places)


Yes.and it's significant but I don't claim to understand the
electrochemical.theory behind it,. Good NiCads stay pretty cool
even at high rates. By the way, Li-ion are also somewhat
endothermic until nearly fully charged.

but the current
going through the internal resistance will generate heat as well, and
from what I've seen, the overall temperature _increases_ as you
charge, even for NiCds, during the entire charge cycle, even when
you're not charging at an extremely high rate. (Of course, if you're
charging at a low rate, any temperature changes are hard to detect, at
least until the cell is fully charged, where it becomes much easier as
all energy is going into heat, not just some.)

Perhaps at low charge rates the endothermic component is slightly
stronger than the exothermic heating, but if you're charging a NiCd
battery in 20 minutes -- at a 3C rate -- no way. It's going to get
warm


I'm warming to your point. Regards.



..


  #21   Report Post  
Ken G.
 
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IT WORKS ALREADY READ MY FIRST POST .

  #22   Report Post  
Doug McLaren
 
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In article ,
Ken G. wrote:

| IT WORKS ALREADY READ MY FIRST POST .

So? We have to stop discussing it?

--
Doug McLaren,
Remember "I" before "E", except in Budweiser.
  #23   Report Post  
Asimov
 
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"Jim Yanik" bravely wrote to "All" (25 Aug 05 23:17:16)
--- on the heady topic of " replacing batteries in Norelco shaver"

JY From: Jim Yanik .
JY Xref: core-easynews sci.electronics.repair:340643

Anyone ever replace batteries in a Norelco (or other brand) shaver?
Anything I should be aware of or watch out for? Seems like it should
be a pretty straight forward procedure.

TIA



JY NiMH cells have a more complicated charge requirement than NiCd.
JY Unless you plan on designing a new charger,you should only replace
JY with NiCd cells similar to what you removed.


Riding my bike I found a cellphone flattened by traffic on the side of
the road. Its Li-ion battery seemed undamaged and it took a controlled
charge okay. I was thinking of replacing the 2 sub-C nicads in a hand
driver with it, as the Li-ion cell has a 1,000mA/hr spec on the label.
It seems impossible for such a small battery (2"x1.5x1/4"thick). There
are 3 contacts on the cell, beneath is a pcb with surface mount IC's.
One terminal is labelled TH, what is it, thermal monitor?

A*s*i*m*o*v

.... That was a fascinating period of time for electronics

  #24   Report Post  
Jim Yanik
 
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"Asimov" wrote in
:

"Jim Yanik" bravely wrote to "All" (25 Aug 05 23:17:16)
--- on the heady topic of " replacing batteries in Norelco shaver"

JY From: Jim Yanik .
JY Xref: core-easynews sci.electronics.repair:340643

Anyone ever replace batteries in a Norelco (or other brand) shaver?
Anything I should be aware of or watch out for? Seems like it should
be a pretty straight forward procedure.

TIA



JY NiMH cells have a more complicated charge requirement than NiCd.
JY Unless you plan on designing a new charger,you should only replace
JY with NiCd cells similar to what you removed.


Riding my bike I found a cellphone flattened by traffic on the side of
the road. Its Li-ion battery seemed undamaged and it took a controlled
charge okay. I was thinking of replacing the 2 sub-C nicads in a hand
driver with it, as the Li-ion cell has a 1,000mA/hr spec on the label.
It seems impossible for such a small battery (2"x1.5x1/4"thick). There
are 3 contacts on the cell, beneath is a pcb with surface mount IC's.
One terminal is labelled TH, what is it, thermal monitor?

A*s*i*m*o*v

... That was a fascinating period of time for electronics



I don't know what the "TH" means.Possibly "THermal",maybe a thermistor for
temp monitoring. You could try measuing resistance between TH and each
other terminals,perhaps while changing the packs temp by hairdryer.

Wood Magazine recently had an article on a new drill/driver that uses Li-
Ion cells in a 28V pack with a microprocessor controller IC built into each
battery pack,it not only controls the charge,gettting the most from the
cells,but it counts charge cycles and keeps track of battery life.According
to the article,some Li-Ion formulations do not have a high discharge
current capability,that it shortens cell life.But Milwaukee says their
cells are different.Their cells are 4 volts apiece.(Is 4.8v/cell 'standard'
for Li-Ion?)

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net
  #25   Report Post  
Jack Edin
 
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I put NiMH cells in mine a year ago...

I let it charge a bit longer, as the capacity is much higher...

Works great!

Did the same with my Uniden and Panasonic cordless phones. I let 'em
charge fully, and they last a l-o-n-g time!

And I didn't redesign the charger. These are trickle chargers, gentlemen.

A fast charger would matter... These do not.

IMHO...

Jack


JY NiMH cells have a more complicated charge requirement than NiCd.
JY Unless you plan on designing a new charger,you should only replace
JY with NiCd cells similar to what you removed.



  #26   Report Post  
H. Dziardziel
 
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On Thu, 29 Sep 2005 15:51:30 GMT, "Asimov"
wrote:

"Jim Yanik" bravely wrote to "All" (25 Aug 05 23:17:16)
--- on the heady topic of " replacing batteries in Norelco shaver"

JY From: Jim Yanik .
JY Xref: core-easynews sci.electronics.repair:340643

Anyone ever replace batteries in a Norelco (or other brand) shaver?
Anything I should be aware of or watch out for? Seems like it should
be a pretty straight forward procedure.

TIA



JY NiMH cells have a more complicated charge requirement than NiCd.
JY Unless you plan on designing a new charger,you should only replace
JY with NiCd cells similar to what you removed.


Riding my bike I found a cellphone flattened by traffic on the side of
the road. Its Li-ion battery seemed undamaged and it took a controlled
charge okay. I was thinking of replacing the 2 sub-C nicads in a hand
driver with it, as the Li-ion cell has a 1,000mA/hr spec on the label.
It seems impossible for such a small battery (2"x1.5x1/4"thick). There
are 3 contacts on the cell, beneath is a pcb with surface mount IC's.
One terminal is labelled TH, what is it, thermal monitor?

A*s*i*m*o*v

... That was a fascinating period of time for electronics


Li-ions can only be at best pulsed at a 2-3C rate. The TH probably
is the termistor and the pcb has picofuses. How will you charger
it once in the driver? Li-ion aren't for casual experimenting, as
you no doubt know..

This has a nice update on consumer product Li-ion capacities.
http://powerelectronics.com/mag/powe...s_seek_higher/
  #27   Report Post  
Asimov
 
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"H. Dziardziel" bravely wrote to "All" (30 Sep 05 09:53:52)
--- on the heady topic of " replacing batteries in Norelco shaver"

HD From: H. Dziardziel
HD Xref: core-easynews sci.electronics.repair:343591

okay. I was thinking of replacing the 2 sub-C nicads in a hand
driver with it, as the Li-ion cell has a 1,000mA/hr spec on the label.


HD Li-ions can only be at best pulsed at a 2-3C rate. The TH probably
HD is the termistor and the pcb has picofuses. How will you charger
HD it once in the driver? Li-ion aren't for casual experimenting, as
HD you no doubt know..

The battery has its own charging smt electronics on a tiny board that
holds the contacts for the adaptor base. I would connect the existing
driver terminals to these contacts and not directly to the battery.

I was so impressed by an experimental electric sports car I saw on
Alan Alda's science show. It went 0-60 in 3.2 seconds and a top speed
over 200. Consider that not many gasoline powered cars can do that. It
was powered by a bank of Li-ion batteries. It must be quite
breathtaking to press the accelerator sitting in that car. Oooh, the
G's, the G's!

A*s*i*m*o*v

.... Wasted power is current squared times the resistance.

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