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Electronics Repair (sci.electronics.repair) Discussion of repairing electronic equipment. Topics include requests for assistance, where to obtain servicing information and parts, techniques for diagnosis and repair, and annecdotes about success, failures and problems. |
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#1
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I recently did a CTC203 that was squealing. I found the horizontal
output transistor shorted and replaced it. I then dug out the infamous coil and cleaned/ resoldered it as well. I fired the thing up only to have the flyback arc and take out the new transistor. I then replaced the flyback and of course the new transistor again and the set worked fine. I don't have a ringer but I have been told that this type of insulation breakdown is somewhat common on these 32 inch and larger chassis and very often won't show up on a ring test anyway. I don't want to just replace a flyback as a prophylactic measure every time one of these squealers comes in but is there any way to predict this might happen before powering up a new repair. Thanks, Lenny Stein, Barlen Electronics |
#2
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Sad to say, either a ringer to test the LOPT before replacing the output
transistor or estimate to include the LOPT as a nominal repair. IMHO the cost of the output transistor is small price to pay to do a dynamic test on the LOPT. Seen a lot of these transformers fail not only in the larger sizes but also the 27" versions. wrote in message oups.com... I recently did a CTC203 that was squealing. I found the horizontal output transistor shorted and replaced it. I then dug out the infamous coil and cleaned/ resoldered it as well. I fired the thing up only to have the flyback arc and take out the new transistor. I then replaced the flyback and of course the new transistor again and the set worked fine. I don't have a ringer but I have been told that this type of insulation breakdown is somewhat common on these 32 inch and larger chassis and very often won't show up on a ring test anyway. I don't want to just replace a flyback as a prophylactic measure every time one of these squealers comes in but is there any way to predict this might happen before powering up a new repair. Thanks, Lenny Stein, Barlen Electronics |
#3
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![]() "Art" wrote in message ... Sad to say, either a ringer to test the LOPT before replacing the output transistor or estimate to include the LOPT as a nominal repair. IMHO the cost of the output transistor is small price to pay to do a dynamic test on the LOPT. Seen a lot of these transformers fail not only in the larger sizes but also the 27" versions. Did I read that right? You think that blowing outputs is a reasonable way to diagnose a bad LOPT? Please finish this line of reasoning... Leonard |
#4
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I really don't know any other way to do it other than powering up the
set. Ringing a flyback is not going to reveal a cracked case arcing problem. What I have done is make 2 test transistors, one with a damper, one without out of old obsolete TV outputs such as old 2SC1172 metal case outputs, and old outputs from TVs like the GE PC chassis. Use the original metal mounting plate from an old set that had a socket like a mid 80s Zenith. Run a foot or two of wiring to the socket. Now when an output transistor is shorted, after doing all the pre power up checks, instead of replacing the transistor, I simply run the wiring from the test transistor to the board and solder. Turn the set on with a HV probe that has min/max memory in the anode then quickly unplug and see if HV normal. If arcing happens and the test transistor is shorted, takes 30 seconds to replace it with another junk TV output. All free. Works for me. Saves some work, and I've found these old transistors pretty much will work any TV for a test anyway. |
#5
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Leonard: Unless you have an absolute failsafe way of testing the LOPT
without sacrificing a transistor we will continue to do it our way. Ringing will tell us if indeed there is a fault in one of the transformers windings, or maybe a shorted diode in the rectifier portion. However, without dynamic testing we will not find the cracked casing unless there is the brown ooze already coming out of it. Even with these nice Sencore 325's that we are now using. I like Ron's idea for bench testing however in the field it may become a bit cumbersome. "RonKZ650" wrote in message oups.com... I really don't know any other way to do it other than powering up the set. Ringing a flyback is not going to reveal a cracked case arcing problem. What I have done is make 2 test transistors, one with a damper, one without out of old obsolete TV outputs such as old 2SC1172 metal case outputs, and old outputs from TVs like the GE PC chassis. Use the original metal mounting plate from an old set that had a socket like a mid 80s Zenith. Run a foot or two of wiring to the socket. Now when an output transistor is shorted, after doing all the pre power up checks, instead of replacing the transistor, I simply run the wiring from the test transistor to the board and solder. Turn the set on with a HV probe that has min/max memory in the anode then quickly unplug and see if HV normal. If arcing happens and the test transistor is shorted, takes 30 seconds to replace it with another junk TV output. All free. Works for me. Saves some work, and I've found these old transistors pretty much will work any TV for a test anyway. |
#6
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I never said that there was a failsafe test. I simply question the routine
use of output transistors as test devices. We test LOPTs by ringing and with the Sencore drive test which is simply a H pulse at 30vpp applied to the primary. Get 500-700 vdc out and it is likely good. Rarely do we find a bad one that passes both tests. Sometimes a bad one will cause intermittent failures or overheating, but these are rare. I paid $200 for a used VA62 on Ebay and the flyback test and ringing tests alone have made it a worthwhile investment. It just seems wasteful to me to consider output transistors to be sacrificial test devices. It seems dangerous as well, since you never know what else you will take out when it fails. Well, in the case of an AA1 Sony, you do actually... Leonard "Art" wrote in message ... Leonard: Unless you have an absolute failsafe way of testing the LOPT without sacrificing a transistor we will continue to do it our way. Ringing will tell us if indeed there is a fault in one of the transformers windings, or maybe a shorted diode in the rectifier portion. However, without dynamic testing we will not find the cracked casing unless there is the brown ooze already coming out of it. Even with these nice Sencore 325's that we are now using. I like Ron's idea for bench testing however in the field it may become a bit cumbersome. "RonKZ650" wrote in message oups.com... I really don't know any other way to do it other than powering up the set. Ringing a flyback is not going to reveal a cracked case arcing problem. What I have done is make 2 test transistors, one with a damper, one without out of old obsolete TV outputs such as old 2SC1172 metal case outputs, and old outputs from TVs like the GE PC chassis. Use the original metal mounting plate from an old set that had a socket like a mid 80s Zenith. Run a foot or two of wiring to the socket. Now when an output transistor is shorted, after doing all the pre power up checks, instead of replacing the transistor, I simply run the wiring from the test transistor to the board and solder. Turn the set on with a HV probe that has min/max memory in the anode then quickly unplug and see if HV normal. If arcing happens and the test transistor is shorted, takes 30 seconds to replace it with another junk TV output. All free. Works for me. Saves some work, and I've found these old transistors pretty much will work any TV for a test anyway. |
#7
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"Leonard Caillouet" wrote in news:q4kke.3409$5p.934@lakeread02:
"Art" wrote in message ... Sad to say, either a ringer to test the LOPT before replacing the output transistor or estimate to include the LOPT as a nominal repair. IMHO the cost of the output transistor is small price to pay to do a dynamic test on the LOPT. Seen a lot of these transformers fail not only in the larger sizes but also the 27" versions. Did I read that right? You think that blowing outputs is a reasonable way to diagnose a bad LOPT? Please finish this line of reasoning... Leonard its a lot cheaper than the hi-pot test equipment you would need... ----== Posted via Newsfeeds.Com - Unlimited-Uncensored-Secure Usenet News==---- http://www.newsfeeds.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 120,000+ Newsgroups ----= East and West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption =---- |
#8
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maybe we can improve on ron's idea....
get a really large test transistor and add some extra zener protection and current limiting so that if there is a arc, the test transistor will survive. Mark |
#9
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What about the power supply?
Leonard "Mark" wrote in message oups.com... maybe we can improve on ron's idea.... get a really large test transistor and add some extra zener protection and current limiting so that if there is a arc, the test transistor will survive. Mark |
#10
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On Mon, 23 May 2005 21:57:34 -0400, "Leonard Caillouet"
wrote: I never said that there was a failsafe test. I simply question the routine use of output transistors as test devices. We test LOPTs by ringing and with the Sencore drive test which is simply a H pulse at 30vpp applied to the primary. Get 500-700 vdc out and it is likely good. Rarely do we find a bad one that passes both tests. Sometimes a bad one will cause intermittent failures or overheating, but these are rare. I paid $200 for a used VA62 on Ebay and the flyback test and ringing tests alone have made it a worthwhile investment. It just seems wasteful to me to consider output transistors to be sacrificial test devices. It seems dangerous as well, since you never know what else you will take out when it fails. Well, in the case of an AA1 Sony, you do actually... Leonard "Art" wrote in message ... Knowing the history and specific brands tendency to kill HOT instantly, had no time to react. That how instant: Push (power button)CLICK-POW. Either a fuse blows instantly or switching power supply goes Eeeeeeee! In generic monitors if I see shorted HOT and checked the driver circuit if it has electrolytic cap, otherwise JUNK. Cost of flyback is too costly in repairing out of warranty monitors. In RCA, Citizen and some other models, when I see a blown HOT depending on chassis, I usually replace both flyback and HOT and they work. A failed cap (plastic ones) is extemely rare in many TV except those few that had small blue disc or had to replace many caps in like in CTC169. It is all based on experience to make the judgement call. Cheers, Wizard |
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