[Denis M]

I am about to add a pin nailer to my workshop.
I have read a few reviews on the Internet.
Most of the comments are related to the expensive Pin Nailers.
Some review are pushing for up to 2" long pin while the others
are ranging from 3/8" to 1".
The following video is good http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e5hhVx0E6EE
However I hate to spend top money for a pin nailer to be used occasionally
for furniture making.
This group may be able to provide practical feedback on different pin
nailers used
by the hobbyists.

[Dave[_52_]]

On Sun, 12 Feb 2012 08:51:31 -0400, "Denis M"
The following video is good http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e5hhVx0E6EE
However I hate to spend top money for a pin nailer to be used occasionally
for furniture making.

Grex is one of the better quality nailers I believe, but if you go by
many of the recent comments, most cheap nailers will work fine. Or,
two of the really cheap ones at some sale, should one die off early.

[Larry Jaques[_4_]]

On Sun, 12 Feb 2012 08:51:31 -0400, "Denis M"
wrote:

I am about to add a pin nailer to my workshop.
I have read a few reviews on the Internet.
Most of the comments are related to the expensive Pin Nailers.
Some review are pushing for up to 2" long pin while the others
are ranging from 3/8" to 1".
The following video is good http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e5hhVx0E6EE
However I hate to spend top money for a pin nailer to be used occasionally
for furniture making.
This group may be able to provide practical feedback on different pin
nailers used
by the hobbyists.

Do you mean 23ga pin nailer or 16-18ga brad nailer, Denis? Lots of us
occasional users have the $30 Harbor Freight brad nailer/staplers and
love them. http://tinyurl.com/7psb2pq For everything else.

$25 23ga pinner: http://tinyurl.com/89azexy for fine furniture

For hobbyist and other occasional use, I've never seen any need to
spend over $100 for a fancy brand.

For a professional, who uses a pinner daily, the additional money
_might_ be worth it.

--
To use fear as the friend it is, we must retrain and reprogram ourselves...
We must persistently and convincingly tell ourselves that the fear is
here--with its gift of energy and heightened awareness--so we can do our
best and learn the most in the new situation.
Peter McWilliams, Life 101

[Steve Turner[_3_]]

On 2/12/2012 8:16 AM, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Sun, 12 Feb 2012 08:51:31 -0400, "Denis M"
wrote:

I am about to add a pin nailer to my workshop.
I have read a few reviews on the Internet.
Most of the comments are related to the expensive Pin Nailers.
Some review are pushing for up to 2" long pin while the others
are ranging from 3/8" to 1".
The following video is good http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e5hhVx0E6EE
However I hate to spend top money for a pin nailer to be used occasionally
for furniture making.
This group may be able to provide practical feedback on different pin
nailers used
by the hobbyists.

Do you mean 23ga pin nailer or 16-18ga brad nailer, Denis? Lots of us
occasional users have the$30 Harbor Freight brad nailer/staplers and
love them. http://tinyurl.com/7psb2pq For everything else.

$25 23ga pinner: http://tinyurl.com/89azexy for fine furniture

For hobbyist and other occasional use, I've never seen any need to
spend over $100 for a fancy brand.

For a professional, who uses a pinner daily, the additional money
_might_ be worth it.

I've never used any of the Harbor Freight nailers mentioned by Larry, but if
you're at all apprehensive about them and want to step up to a good quality
"brand name" nailer, I can attest that the Paslode T200 is a wonderful tool,
and can be had for under $100:

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00005RHQN/?tag=paslodecom-20
http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/...000003+9 0401

My buddy bought one, and after borrowing it several times and *loving* it I
went out and bought my own.

--
Any given amount of traffic flow, no matter how
sparse, will expand to fill all available lanes.
To reply, eat the taco.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/

[Cliff Hartle[_2_]]

I have the one from HF and its fine for my use. It only shoots 1" pins but
its fine for me. Got it on sale for around $20.

The only issue I have with the video itself is that it looks like and
probably is a ad for the Grex brand nailer. A brand I have never seen.

The Grex looks good though the best feature I can see is the low nail
lockout feature. When you are out of pins, the only way to find out is when
your nailed piece doesn't stay where you nailed it.

"Denis M" wrote in message
...
I am about to add a pin nailer to my workshop.
I have read a few reviews on the Internet.
Most of the comments are related to the expensive Pin Nailers.
Some review are pushing for up to 2" long pin while the others
are ranging from 3/8" to 1".
The following video is good http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e5hhVx0E6EE
However I hate to spend top money for a pin nailer to be used occasionally
for furniture making.
This group may be able to provide practical feedback on different pin
nailers used
by the hobbyists.

[Cliff Hartle[_2_]]

Oh and I found it for $299.

[Mike Marlow[_2_]]

Cliff Hartle wrote:

I have the one from HF and its fine for my use. It only shoots 1"
pins but its fine for me. Got it on sale for around $20.


I have the Harbor Freight 2-in-1 nailer and it works just fine. I've had it
for 4 or 5 years now and I shoot staples and brads through it. It has no
trouble with the 2" brads, which are the longest it will shoot.

This is the one I have...

http://www.harborfreight.com/18-gaug...7524-3795.html


--

-Mike-

[Leon[_7_]]

On 2/12/2012 6:51 AM, Denis M wrote:
I am about to add a pin nailer to my workshop.
I have read a few reviews on the Internet.
Most of the comments are related to the expensive Pin Nailers.
Some review are pushing for up to 2" long pin while the others
are ranging from 3/8" to 1".
The following video is good http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e5hhVx0E6EE
However I hate to spend top money for a pin nailer to be used occasionally
for furniture making.
This group may be able to provide practical feedback on different pin
nailers used
by the hobbyists.




I have the Grex 635 and have had it for 3~4 years now. A great tool.

A pin nailer is great for what it was intended but keep in mind that
once you start using the longer pins, =1-3/8" the risk of deflection
increases dramatically. The guns are capable of shooting the longer
pins but when you get into the harder woods the longer pins will follow
the grain.

It is great for adding trim until the glue dries, setting up jigs, and
any where you don't want to see the nail hole.

[Swingman]

On 2/12/2012 1:11 PM, Leon wrote:

I have the Grex 635 and have had it for 3~4 years now. A great tool.

A pin nailer is great for what it was intended but keep in mind that
once you start using the longer pins, =1-3/8" the risk of deflection
increases dramatically. The guns are capable of shooting the longer pins
but when you get into the harder woods the longer pins will follow the
grain.

It is great for adding trim until the glue dries, setting up jigs, and
any where you don't want to see the nail hole.

Extra capacity is great when you need it, but thus far I've had very few
situations, if any, where my 23ga Omer, limited to just a RCH under 3/4"
in pin length, has not been sufficient for my needs (attaching trim).

It would be interesting to see a graph of the most used lengths of those
owning pinners ... probably some sales data would tell the tale.

--
www.eWoodShop.com
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)
http://gplus.to/eWoodShop

[Dave[_52_]]

On Sun, 12 Feb 2012 13:26:29 -0600, Swingman wrote:
Extra capacity is great when you need it, but thus far I've had very few
situations, if any, where my 23ga Omer, limited to just a RCH under 3/4"
in pin length, has not been sufficient for my needs (attaching trim).

I'd guess that crown molding would be one of the more common uses for
longer pins.

[Leon[_7_]]

On 2/12/2012 1:26 PM, Swingman wrote:
On 2/12/2012 1:11 PM, Leon wrote:

I have the Grex 635 and have had it for 3~4 years now. A great tool.

A pin nailer is great for what it was intended but keep in mind that
once you start using the longer pins, =1-3/8" the risk of deflection
increases dramatically. The guns are capable of shooting the longer pins
but when you get into the harder woods the longer pins will follow the
grain.

It is great for adding trim until the glue dries, setting up jigs, and
any where you don't want to see the nail hole.

Extra capacity is great when you need it, but thus far I've had very few
situations, if any, where my 23ga Omer, limited to just a RCH under 3/4"
in pin length, has not been sufficient for my needs (attaching trim).

It would be interesting to see a graph of the most used lengths of those
owning pinners ... probably some sales data would tell the tale.


For what it is worth, when I bought my Grex 635 it came with an
assortment of every size pin that it would shoot, 900 of each.

I have used every size except the 7/7" and have purchased boxes of
10,000 in replacement sizes of 3/4" and 1/2".

http://thefastenercompany.com/23_gauge_pins.htm will sell in smaller
quantities of each size.

[Dave[_52_]]

On Sun, 12 Feb 2012 13:53:22 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
I have used every size except the 7/7" and have purchased boxes of
10,000 in replacement sizes of 3/4" and 1/2".

How difficult is it to pull apart pinned wood? Once in awhile, I shoot
a nail when the wood isn't aligned properly. Just a dumb mistake, but
the worst part is trying to pull the pieces apart without destroying
the project. A headless pin would make correcting a mistake like that
much easier to correct.

[Swingman]

On 2/12/2012 1:32 PM, Dave wrote:
On Sun, 12 Feb 2012 13:26:29 -0600, wrote:
Extra capacity is great when you need it, but thus far I've had very few
situations, if any, where my 23ga Omer, limited to just a RCH under 3/4"
in pin length, has not been sufficient for my needs (attaching trim).

I'd guess that crown molding would be one of the more common uses for
longer pins.


"Crown molding" covers a lot of territory in size, thickness and what it
underlyingit.

If I catch anyone working for me putting up "crown molding" in a house
with just a 23ga pinner, they'd be corrected on the spot, and fired the
second time.

Smaller crown molding, maybe, and smaller molding and trim, like dentil
molding, yes ... but, depending upon the length and width of the pieces
being installed, you also better back the 23 ga pins with adhesive of
some sort on anything over 1/2" thickness if you don't expect to come
back to reattach it in short order.

My experience, in any event.

--
www.eWoodShop.com
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)
http://gplus.to/eWoodShop

[Swingman]

On 2/12/2012 2:00 PM, Dave wrote:
On Sun, 12 Feb 2012 13:53:22 -0600, Leonlcb11211@swbelldotnet
I have used every size except the 7/7" and have purchased boxes of
10,000 in replacement sizes of 3/4" and 1/2".

How difficult is it to pull apart pinned wood? Once in awhile, I shoot
a nail when the wood isn't aligned properly. Just a dumb mistake, but
the worst part is trying to pull the pieces apart without destroying
the project. A headless pin would make correcting a mistake like that
much easier to correct.

IME, much easier than pulling apart most material fastened with 18ga
brads ... and I use both for making temporary jigs on almost every
single project.

If I want something I can pull a part more easily, and of the same
length for the material, I use the pin nailer. No comparison.

--
www.eWoodShop.com
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)
http://gplus.to/eWoodShop

[Leon[_7_]]

On 2/12/2012 2:00 PM, Dave wrote:
On Sun, 12 Feb 2012 13:53:22 -0600, Leonlcb11211@swbelldotnet
I have used every size except the 7/7" and have purchased boxes of
10,000 in replacement sizes of 3/4" and 1/2".

How difficult is it to pull apart pinned wood? Once in awhile, I shoot
a nail when the wood isn't aligned properly. Just a dumb mistake, but
the worst part is trying to pull the pieces apart without destroying
the project. A headless pin would make correcting a mistake like that
much easier to correct.

Normally not a problem unless you have shot several. Pulling them the
rest of the way through when they deflect is a 50/50 deal for me. They
break half the time but a file cleans up the burr quickly.

[Doug Winterburn]

On 02/12/2012 08:06 PM, Edward A. Falk wrote:
In ,
Larry wrote:

$25 23ga pinner: http://tinyurl.com/89azexy for fine furniture

FWIW, I have the HF 23ga pin nailer, and it's never given me any trouble.
It only goes up to 1" pins. Mine has seen only light use, so YMMV.


I picked up the HF 3 pack - 16, 18 and pin nailers for something like
$59.95 on sale. All are still working fine after 2 -3 years or so.

Spent almost as much on a supply of nails from HD.

Don't see the same offer on their online site now.


--
"Socialism is a philosophy of failure,the creed of ignorance, and the
gospel of envy, its inherent virtue is the equal sharing of misery"
-Winston Churchill

[Pat Barber[_2_]]

Think what you might be doing with a pin nailer.

The idea is to hold something until the glue dries.

The basic job is to hold some molding to a piece of
furniture.

Good luck driving some tiny pin that's 2" long.

Most pin nailers are "around" 1.25"
but 1" is very common.

On 2/12/2012 4:51 AM, Denis M wrote:
I am about to add a pin nailer to my workshop.
I have read a few reviews on the Internet.
Most of the comments are related to the expensive Pin Nailers.
Some review are pushing for up to 2" long pin while the others
are ranging from 3/8" to 1".

[Leon[_7_]]

On 2/12/2012 6:51 AM, Denis M wrote:
I am about to add a pin nailer to my workshop.
I have read a few reviews on the Internet.
Most of the comments are related to the expensive Pin Nailers.
Some review are pushing for up to 2" long pin while the others
are ranging from 3/8" to 1".
The following video is good http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e5hhVx0E6EE
However I hate to spend top money for a pin nailer to be used occasionally
for furniture making.
This group may be able to provide practical feedback on different pin
nailers used
by the hobbyists.




A follow up to my comments about my Grex pinner. I have had the pinner
almost 5 years.

I had a problem with it 2 days ago, it would not retract the ram after
each shot unless I removed the pins and dry fired.

I called GREX, the receptionist was knowledgeable about the product and
almost gave me the remedy but I probably confused her with too much
information. She immediately turned me over to Raymond in tech
service. Raymond let me describe the problem again in the order
witnessed. He guided me through partial disassembley and diagnosed the
problem and told me the exact seal that had gone bad. I had a repair
kit. He offered a complimentary o-ring almost 4 years after the
warranty expired. I refused the offer as I had the repair kit already.

So from that point he had me open the repair kit instruction sheet and
told me exactly which o-ring and the part number on the diagram to replace.

Service after the sale and the warranty. I was impressed and 15 minutes
later my gun was firing like new.

[Leon[_7_]]

On 2/14/2012 4:06 PM, Pat Barber wrote:
Think what you might be doing with a pin nailer.

The idea is to hold something until the glue dries.

The basic job is to hold some molding to a piece of
furniture.

Good luck driving some tiny pin that's 2" long.

Most pin nailers are "around" 1.25"
but 1" is very common.

On 2/12/2012 4:51 AM, Denis M wrote:
I am about to add a pin nailer to my workshop.
I have read a few reviews on the Internet.
Most of the comments are related to the expensive Pin Nailers.
Some review are pushing for up to 2" long pin while the others
are ranging from 3/8" to 1".


I agree with wishing luck to drive 2" pins. The gun will certainly do
the deed but the pins are too light weight to not be deflected in hard
woods.

[[email protected]]

On Feb 15, 8:28*am, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:

Service after the sale and the warranty. *I was impressed and 15 minutes
later my gun was firing like new.

You know Leon, you just don't mind spending money on a product when
you get what you pay for. Whether it's Festool, Grex, or any other
product (like my Kershaw knives), I don't mind paying for a good
product that has great customer support.

As far as pinners go, I didn't know if I would actually use a one, so
I bought one at HF for $12 when they were on sale. I don't use it
much, but it is a tool I have come to use more often.

Recently, I had a bath re-do for a realtor. The cabinets were old
Doug Fir plywood built on site in the early 50s, and were still really
solid. The doors were solid slabs with no features. I filled the
pull holes, and put some new, fancy nickel 3 1/2" pulls on the doors
and drawers. On the faces of the cabinets and drawers, I put a frame
of a 5/8" bead that I held in about 3" all the way around. So it had
a kind of traditional look, but with the molding being so small it
didn't look too dated.

I really used the hell out of the pinner on that job. It never
misfired, jammed, or misbehaved. I did hit a couple of hard spots
(probably a knot in the plywood substrate) which caused the pin to
turn back 180 degrees. The misfires were easily removed with a pair
of pliers.

I liked the fact that with a prime coat, I didn't need to fill the
holes. The paint filled them!

Their was also a large pass through between the kitchen and the dining
room. It was big enough that it also served as a bar to seat three
people. The builder actually took a door, laid it flat, and installed
that as the bar top. But years of too many coats of varnish coupled
with too many cleanings had made top awful. It had too much old
finish to resurface or to put on plastic.

As I had done before for outside table tops, I put on an extra thick
12" floor tile that looked like slate. It came out great, was cheap,
and the realtor was thrilled with the end product (especially the
price!). A major improvement if you saw the original mess, and
actually looked pretty good. (Don't look too close, you know...)

The perimeter pieces that had been cut to match the "grout" pattern
began to fall off. Too much gummy stuff under the tiles for them to
stick. I took out the pinner, put the end pieces back up one at a
time, and then shot them at an up angle so you didn't see them when
looking directly at them or from the top. The pinner raised a little
tab of plastic, which was easily driven back into the hole with a
hammer.
You never saw the pins.

Part of the arsenal now, that's for sure.

Robert

[Leon[_7_]]

On 2/15/2012 1:38 PM, wrote:
On Feb 15, 8:28 am, Leonlcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:

Service after the sale and the warranty. I was impressed and 15 minutes
later my gun was firing like new.

You know Leon, you just don't mind spending money on a product when
you get what you pay for. Whether it's Festool, Grex, or any other
product (like my Kershaw knives), I don't mind paying for a good
product that has great customer support.

As far as pinners go, I didn't know if I would actually use a one, so
I bought one at HF for $12 when they were on sale. I don't use it
much, but it is a tool I have come to use more often.

Recently, I had a bath re-do for a realtor. The cabinets were old
Doug Fir plywood built on site in the early 50s, and were still really
solid. The doors were solid slabs with no features. I filled the
pull holes, and put some new, fancy nickel 3 1/2" pulls on the doors
and drawers. On the faces of the cabinets and drawers, I put a frame
of a 5/8" bead that I held in about 3" all the way around. So it had
a kind of traditional look, but with the molding being so small it
didn't look too dated.

I really used the hell out of the pinner on that job. It never
misfired, jammed, or misbehaved. I did hit a couple of hard spots
(probably a knot in the plywood substrate) which caused the pin to
turn back 180 degrees. The misfires were easily removed with a pair
of pliers.

I liked the fact that with a prime coat, I didn't need to fill the
holes. The paint filled them!

Their was also a large pass through between the kitchen and the dining
room. It was big enough that it also served as a bar to seat three
people. The builder actually took a door, laid it flat, and installed
that as the bar top. But years of too many coats of varnish coupled
with too many cleanings had made top awful. It had too much old
finish to resurface or to put on plastic.

As I had done before for outside table tops, I put on an extra thick
12" floor tile that looked like slate. It came out great, was cheap,
and the realtor was thrilled with the end product (especially the
price!). A major improvement if you saw the original mess, and
actually looked pretty good. (Don't look too close, you know...)

The perimeter pieces that had been cut to match the "grout" pattern
began to fall off. Too much gummy stuff under the tiles for them to
stick. I took out the pinner, put the end pieces back up one at a
time, and then shot them at an up angle so you didn't see them when
looking directly at them or from the top. The pinner raised a little
tab of plastic, which was easily driven back into the hole with a
hammer.
You never saw the pins.

Part of the arsenal now, that's for sure.

Robert
I absolutely love the "no-recoil" so no chance of denting the work.
But, more and more I use the pinner for setting up jigs, which was what
I was trying to do the other day when it refused to operate.
it is quite good at attaching 1/4" radius quarter around moldings around
glass too.

BTY I carried a Kershaw knife for probably 20 years until I had
sharpened the point so much that it no remained inside the handle in my
pocket. Reaching in my pocket I poked a hole in my finger. ;~) I
could never find the same knife locally.

[Pat Barber[_2_]]

You happen to have any picture of the outside table tops
with the tile ???

I kinda like that concept and I'm looking for ideas.

On 2/15/2012 11:38 AM, wrote:


As I had done before for outside table tops, I put on an extra thick
12" floor tile that looked like slate. It came out great, was cheap,
and the realtor was thrilled with the end product (especially the
price!).

[[email protected]]

On Feb 15, 3:55*pm, Pat Barber wrote:
You happen to have any picture of the outside table tops
with the tile ???

I kinda like that concept and I'm looking for ideas.

I'll look and see. I'm not the best at taking pics of my work, but I
might actually have some of that. If I do, I'll ping you.

Robert

[Dave[_52_]]

On Wed, 15 Feb 2012 08:28:09 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
A follow up to my comments about my Grex pinner. I have had the pinner
almost 5 years.

A question about pin nailing in regards to fine furniture. It's hard
for me to visualize the size of a 23 gauge pin hole. I have looked at
online images, but seeing in person will tell me everything I need to
know. (something I'll be doing later this month when I visit my
favourite tool dealer).

Pinning trim on fine furniture. Do you fill the holes? Does the mere
act of finishing fill the hole beyond cursory examination? Do you use
some other non-pinned method to hold trim in place while you
permanently attach it?

Obviously, all these questions are a precursor to my buying a pin
nailer. I'm mid way between the wanting stage and the knowing I need
one stage.

[Leon[_7_]]

On 2/19/2012 9:17 PM, Dave wrote:
On Wed, 15 Feb 2012 08:28:09 -0600, Leonlcb11211@swbelldotnet
A follow up to my comments about my Grex pinner. I have had the pinner
almost 5 years.

A question about pin nailing in regards to fine furniture. It's hard
for me to visualize the size of a 23 gauge pin hole. I have looked at
online images, but seeing in person will tell me everything I need to
know. (something I'll be doing later this month when I visit my
favourite tool dealer).

Pinning trim on fine furniture. Do you fill the holes? Does the mere
act of finishing fill the hole beyond cursory examination? Do you use
some other non-pinned method to hold trim in place while you
permanently attach it?

Obviously, all these questions are a precursor to my buying a pin
nailer. I'm mid way between the wanting stage and the knowing I need
one stage.


Take a straight pin, poke it through a sheet of paper. There is your
hole. 90% of the time you do not need to fill the holes especially if
you are working in an obvious grained wood and or plan to stain. If
working with white birch or maple you might want to putty the holes.

I find that I use my pinner more and more, It is great for building
jigs, the wood does not move when you shoot the pins and there is
basically no recoil. And compared to most all other nails, pins are
inexpensive.

[Jack]

On 2/19/2012 10:17 PM, Dave wrote:
On Wed, 15 Feb 2012 08:28:09 -0600, Leonlcb11211@swbelldotnet
A follow up to my comments about my Grex pinner. I have had the pinner
almost 5 years.

A question about pin nailing in regards to fine furniture. It's hard
for me to visualize the size of a 23 gauge pin hole. I have looked at
online images, but seeing in person will tell me everything I need to
know. (something I'll be doing later this month when I visit my
favourite tool dealer).

I finally broke down and bought a pin nailer, even though I rarely use
nails in my shop. It has some value in making jigs and such, but I made
jigs for many years without a nail gun. I bought a cheap gun that
doubles as a stapler from HF. I figured the stapler would be good for
upholstery, something I do about once every 15 years. The cheap gun
works fine, except besides the pin hole, the hammer also makes a little
obscene dent in the wood. I assume more expensive guns don't do this.
When I first got the gun, I used it for several things instead of clamps
for gluing stuff. No good, it was easy but left the dents and pin holes
(18g) and more than once I bitched at myself for even buying the thing.
I've learned not to use it when inappropriate, which for me is most of
the time. Works great for rough cut bird houses though:-)

Pinning trim on fine furniture. Do you fill the holes? Does the mere
act of finishing fill the hole beyond cursory examination? Do you use
some other non-pinned method to hold trim in place while you
permanently attach it?

I think they would be ideal for a trim carpenter, and you could paint
the trim w/o filling the holes/dents. Fine furniture, nope, stay away
from any sort of nail gun where possible. Norm was a fool and was
selling nail guns. No way you could get away with what he did on fine
furniture. I guess you could use them on cabinet backs. I built a 12'
railing for an outside, second floor balcony for someone and used the
gun for pining the baluster spacers down, that was great. Also a garden
bench where I used spaces for the back slats in the top rail, also great
for that. Fine furniture, no.

Obviously, all these questions are a precursor to my buying a pin
nailer. I'm mid way between the wanting stage and the knowing I need
one stage.

BTDT. Just go buy one and get it over with.

--
Jack
Add Life to your Days not Days to your Life.
http://jbstein.com

[Dave[_52_]]

On Tue, 21 Feb 2012 10:45:03 -0500, Jack wrote:
Obviously, all these questions are a precursor to my buying a pin
nailer. I'm mid way between the wanting stage and the knowing I need
one stage.

BTDT. Just go buy one and get it over with.

I was already to buy a pin nailer until I heard about the Cadex pin
nailers. With their nailer that can shoot slightly headed pins and
regular pins, I'm having second thoughts about the brand of pin nailer
I was going to buy.

[[email protected]]

On Feb 21, 1:48*pm, Dave wrote:

I was already to buy a pin nailer until I heard about the Cadex pin
nailers. With their nailer that can shoot slightly headed pins and
regular pins, I'm having second thoughts about the brand of pin nailer
I was going to buy.

I think it would depend on how much I would use it. I don't use mine
much, so the HF model I paid $12 for was a real bargain when it was on
sale. I bought their 3/4" pins at the same time and I was under $20
for both including tax.

I would be ****ed if I had a $200 Cadex that sat for a few month at a
time with no use.

Robert

[Jack]

On 2/21/2012 2:48 PM, Dave wrote:
On Tue, 21 Feb 2012 10:45:03 -0500, wrote:
Obviously, all these questions are a precursor to my buying a pin
nailer. I'm mid way between the wanting stage and the knowing I need
one stage.

BTDT. Just go buy one and get it over with.

I was already to buy a pin nailer until I heard about the Cadex pin
nailers. With their nailer that can shoot slightly headed pins and
regular pins, I'm having second thoughts about the brand of pin nailer
I was going to buy.

I just used mine today, pinning the back of basement shelving unit on.
The HF also shoots slightly headed pins as well as staples. The first
two I managed to shoot through the side of the case. This seldom/never
happens with nails. I only had a 3/8 rabbit for the back, and if your
not used to using the nailer because you seldom use the damn thing, it's
easy to miss where the nail will go the first couple of shots.

I don't think I'd let an air nailer within 20 miles of any fine
furniture I was making. Norm seemed to stab everything in site...
Camera's hide a ton of garbage I say.

I can tell you for sure I'm glad I bought the cheap ass HF tool, it
works fine for as much as I use it. If I were a finish carpenter, I
-might- buy a better one for durability, but I don't know how durable
this one is, it seems decent, but it's so cheap money wise it's hard to
think it would last with daily use. The only time it ever jammed on me
was when I switched over from pins to staples to test it out. I think I
had a staple try to shoot the same time as a pin, something like that.
You have to take it apart to clear a jam. I think other ones have
better methods, but not sure. Also, mine seems to need 60 psi to shoot,
any less and no go. I generally shoot around 75 to 80.

--
Jack
Add Life to your Days not Days to your Life.
http://jbstein.com

[Mike Marlow[_2_]]

Jack wrote:


I just used mine today, pinning the back of basement shelving unit on.
The HF also shoots slightly headed pins as well as staples. The first
two I managed to shoot through the side of the case. This
seldom/never happens with nails. I only had a 3/8 rabbit for the
back, and if your not used to using the nailer because you seldom use
the damn thing, it's easy to miss where the nail will go the first
couple of shots.

Echo that. I have had that very same thing happen to me. Just don't use
the nailer enough to be instinctive with it and it's easy to send a nail
someplace besides where you really wanted it.

--

-Mike-

[Leon[_7_]]

On 2/21/2012 1:48 PM, Dave wrote:
On Tue, 21 Feb 2012 10:45:03 -0500, wrote:
Obviously, all these questions are a precursor to my buying a pin
nailer. I'm mid way between the wanting stage and the knowing I need
one stage.

BTDT. Just go buy one and get it over with.

I was already to buy a pin nailer until I heard about the Cadex pin
nailers. With their nailer that can shoot slightly headed pins and
regular pins, I'm having second thoughts about the brand of pin nailer
I was going to buy.

Actually if I needed something that shot a headed fastener I would use a
brad nailer. IMHO a headed pin defeats the purpose.

[Larry Jaques[_4_]]

On Wed, 22 Feb 2012 07:23:25 -0500, "Mike Marlow"
wrote:

Jack wrote:


I just used mine today, pinning the back of basement shelving unit on.
The HF also shoots slightly headed pins as well as staples. The first
two I managed to shoot through the side of the case. This
seldom/never happens with nails. I only had a 3/8 rabbit for the
back, and if your not used to using the nailer because you seldom use
the damn thing, it's easy to miss where the nail will go the first
couple of shots.

Echo that. I have had that very same thing happen to me. Just don't use
the nailer enough to be instinctive with it and it's easy to send a nail
someplace besides where you really wanted it.

When aim counts, hold a couple pieces of scrap together, put a single
pencil dot on one, put the tip on that, fire once, and look at the
relationship. Now you know precisely how far away from the tip the pin
comes out. Better yet, draw the profile of the pinner's tip on the
scrap piece for later reference. Drill a hole and use a nylon tie
strip to bind it to the trigger guard to keep it with the gun.

--
Every day I remind myself that my inner and outer life are
based on the labors of other men, living and dead, and that
I must exert myself in order to give in the same measure as
I have received and am still receiving.
-- Albert Einstein

[Larry Jaques[_4_]]

On Wed, 22 Feb 2012 06:54:06 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 2/21/2012 1:48 PM, Dave wrote:
On Tue, 21 Feb 2012 10:45:03 -0500, wrote:
Obviously, all these questions are a precursor to my buying a pin
nailer. I'm mid way between the wanting stage and the knowing I need
one stage.

BTDT. Just go buy one and get it over with.

I was already to buy a pin nailer until I heard about the Cadex pin
nailers. With their nailer that can shoot slightly headed pins and
regular pins, I'm having second thoughts about the brand of pin nailer
I was going to buy.

Actually if I needed something that shot a headed fastener I would use a
brad nailer. IMHO a headed pin defeats the purpose.

Don't the pins hold a wee bit better, anyway, from the heat-activated
epoxy coating?

--
Every day I remind myself that my inner and outer life are
based on the labors of other men, living and dead, and that
I must exert myself in order to give in the same measure as
I have received and am still receiving.
-- Albert Einstein

[Jack]

On 2/22/2012 10:27 AM, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Wed, 22 Feb 2012 07:23:25 -0500, "Mike Marlow"

I just used mine today, pinning the back of basement shelving unit on.
The HF also shoots slightly headed pins as well as staples. The first
two I managed to shoot through the side of the case. This
seldom/never happens with nails. I only had a 3/8 rabbit for the
back, and if your not used to using the nailer because you seldom use
the damn thing, it's easy to miss where the nail will go the first
couple of shots.

Echo that. I have had that very same thing happen to me. Just don't use
the nailer enough to be instinctive with it and it's easy to send a nail
someplace besides where you really wanted it.

When aim counts, hold a couple pieces of scrap together, put a single
pencil dot on one, put the tip on that, fire once, and look at the
relationship. Now you know precisely how far away from the tip the pin
comes out.

Good advice. When I pinned the face frame on the shelves, I forced
myself to shoot a practice shot into scrap wood, and it went exactly
where I aimed it. I think with the back I was not just not careful, I
also angled the gun a tad to make sure it didn't come out inside the
case. Of course, it came out outside the case. That of course ****ed me
off so I angled it a tad the other way, and of course, it came out
inside the case. After I was done being stupid, all was well.

Anyway, it's just some utility shelving for the garage the wife wanted,
and I made it out of scrap stuff, so wasn't too worried. I may never
shoot another pin through the side of a case, but I wouldn't bet on it.

I never shot a nail through the side of anything before I got this air
gun:-) They are a bit too much fun to use, and I find myself looking for
things to nail when one is in my hands.

--
Jack
Add Life to your Days not Days to your Life.
http://jbstein.com