I am sure the answer I had before was that it was ok to put a choc box
connection in the existing light wiring and take a lead to the new
location (about 2 metres max)
The idea is I can do this from the room below as I am trying to avoid
going in to the attic and wrestling with the insulation and it will be
in a cramped location with no flooring.

Question:
When I feed the `new` cable along to the new location it will
effectively be under the insulation, will this be ok?

On 22/04/2017 21:57, ss wrote:
I am sure the answer I had before was that it was ok to put a choc box
connection in the existing light wiring and take a lead to the new
location (about 2 metres max)
The idea is I can do this from the room below as I am trying to avoid
going in to the attic and wrestling with the insulation and it will be
in a cramped location with no flooring.

Question:
When I feed the `new` cable along to the new location it will
effectively be under the insulation, will this be ok?

The cable will have a lower current rating if any heat it generates
can't escape, but it's ok as long as you take account of this.

Hopefully Adam or someone will be along with chapter and verse, but if
it's a single light, I imagine that 1mm or 1.5mm cable will be ok.
--
Cheers,
Roger
____________
Please reply to Newsgroup. Whilst email address is valid, it is seldom
checked.

On 22/04/2017 22:35, Roger Mills wrote:
Hopefully Adam or someone will be along with chapter and verse, but if
it's a single light, I imagine that 1mm or 1.5mm cable will be ok.

Yes its a single light 60watt bulb.

On Saturday, 22 April 2017 21:57:13 UTC+1, ss wrote:
I am sure the answer I had before was that it was ok to put a choc box
connection in the existing light wiring and take a lead to the new
location (about 2 metres max)
The idea is I can do this from the room below as I am trying to avoid
going in to the attic and wrestling with the insulation and it will be
in a cramped location with no flooring.

Question:
When I feed the `new` cable along to the new location it will
effectively be under the insulation, will this be ok?

yes.


NT

On 22/04/2017 21:57, ss wrote:
I am sure the answer I had before was that it was ok to put a choc box
connection in the existing light wiring and take a lead to the new
location (about 2 metres max)
The idea is I can do this from the room below as I am trying to avoid
going in to the attic and wrestling with the insulation and it will be
in a cramped location with no flooring.

Question:
When I feed the `new` cable along to the new location it will
effectively be under the insulation, will this be ok?

Its not usually a problem with lighting circuits since the cable is
significantly over specified in the first place.


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On 22/04/2017 22:35, Roger Mills wrote:
On 22/04/2017 21:57, ss wrote:
I am sure the answer I had before was that it was ok to put a choc box
connection in the existing light wiring and take a lead to the new
location (about 2 metres max)
The idea is I can do this from the room below as I am trying to avoid
going in to the attic and wrestling with the insulation and it will be
in a cramped location with no flooring.

Question:
When I feed the `new` cable along to the new location it will
effectively be under the insulation, will this be ok?

The cable will have a lower current rating if any heat it generates
can't escape, but it's ok as long as you take account of this.

Hopefully Adam or someone will be along with chapter and verse, but if
it's a single light, I imagine that 1mm or 1.5mm cable will be ok.

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/...g_A_Cable_Size

gives all the details.

But the quick reply is that 1mm T&E has a maximum rating of 16A when
clipped direct/in the air etc but along with all other T&E cables it has
it's maximum load reduced by 50% when fully buried in insulation.

Hence a a 6A MCB can generally supply a 1.0mm lighting circuit with a
load of 1.3kW where the cable is covered in insulation (other
considerations may be needed)

--
Adam

On 23/04/2017 03:18, John Rumm wrote:
On 22/04/2017 21:57, ss wrote:
I am sure the answer I had before was that it was ok to put a choc box
connection in the existing light wiring and take a lead to the new
location (about 2 metres max)
The idea is I can do this from the room below as I am trying to avoid
going in to the attic and wrestling with the insulation and it will be
in a cramped location with no flooring.

Question:
When I feed the `new` cable along to the new location it will
effectively be under the insulation, will this be ok?

Its not usually a problem with lighting circuits since the cable is
significantly over specified in the first place.


Thanks all for the replies.

On Sunday, 23 April 2017 06:50:50 UTC+1, ARW wrote:
On 22/04/2017 22:35, Roger Mills wrote:
On 22/04/2017 21:57, ss wrote:
I am sure the answer I had before was that it was ok to put a choc box
connection in the existing light wiring and take a lead to the new
location (about 2 metres max)
The idea is I can do this from the room below as I am trying to avoid
going in to the attic and wrestling with the insulation and it will be
in a cramped location with no flooring.

Question:
When I feed the `new` cable along to the new location it will
effectively be under the insulation, will this be ok?

The cable will have a lower current rating if any heat it generates
can't escape, but it's ok as long as you take account of this.

Hopefully Adam or someone will be along with chapter and verse, but if
it's a single light, I imagine that 1mm or 1.5mm cable will be ok.

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/...g_A_Cable_Size

gives all the details.

But the quick reply is that 1mm T&E has a maximum rating of 16A when
clipped direct/in the air etc but along with all other T&E cables it has
it's maximum load reduced by 50% when fully buried in insulation.

Hence a a 6A MCB can generally supply a 1.0mm lighting circuit with a
load of 1.3kW where the cable is covered in insulation (other
considerations may be needed)

pendant lights are rated 100w max.


NT

On 23/04/17 03:18, John Rumm wrote:

Its not usually a problem with lighting circuits since the cable is
significantly over specified in the first place.

Do you know if this is a hangover from the 20s and 30s when "lighting"
circuits were often used for devices with a moderate power consumption?
I can most certainly remember in the 50s when my mother used to iron by
plugging it (bayonet plug) into a two-way connector in the ceiling
light. As far as I remember, the only time the 15 amp wall socket was
used was for a 2 or 3-bar heater.

With even lower power needed for lighting in these days of LEDs (and
CFLs), isn't rather a lot of metal being wasted unnecessarily in the
wire in lighting circuits?

--

Jeff

On 23/04/2017 07:59, Jeff Layman wrote:
Do you know if this is a hangover from the 20s and 30s

Late 80s house.

On Sunday, 23 April 2017 07:59:53 UTC+1, Jeff Layman wrote:
With even lower power needed for lighting in these days of LEDs (and
CFLs), isn't rather a lot of metal being wasted unnecessarily in the
wire in lighting circuits?

Below 1mm conductors are physically less robust.

Owain

On 23/04/2017 07:38, wrote:

pendant lights are rated 100w max.

Never put a photoflood 2 lamp in a pendant before?

In article . com,
dennis@home wrote:
On 23/04/2017 07:38, wrote:

pendant lights are rated 100w max.

Never put a photoflood 2 lamp in a pendant before?

and we used to have 200w ES ones in our village hall. Now using 120w
halogens - when I can still get them.

--
from KT24 in Surrey, England

On 23/04/2017 11:24, charles wrote:
In article . com,
dennis@home wrote:
On 23/04/2017 07:38, wrote:

pendant lights are rated 100w max.

Never put a photoflood 2 lamp in a pendant before?

and we used to have 200w ES ones in our village hall. Now using 120w
halogens - when I can still get them.


LED next?

--
Adam

On 23/04/2017 07:38, wrote:
On Sunday, 23 April 2017 06:50:50 UTC+1, ARW wrote:
On 22/04/2017 22:35, Roger Mills wrote:
On 22/04/2017 21:57, ss wrote:
I am sure the answer I had before was that it was ok to put a choc box
connection in the existing light wiring and take a lead to the new
location (about 2 metres max)
The idea is I can do this from the room below as I am trying to avoid
going in to the attic and wrestling with the insulation and it will be
in a cramped location with no flooring.

Question:
When I feed the `new` cable along to the new location it will
effectively be under the insulation, will this be ok?

The cable will have a lower current rating if any heat it generates
can't escape, but it's ok as long as you take account of this.

Hopefully Adam or someone will be along with chapter and verse, but if
it's a single light, I imagine that 1mm or 1.5mm cable will be ok.

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/...g_A_Cable_Size

gives all the details.

But the quick reply is that 1mm T&E has a maximum rating of 16A when
clipped direct/in the air etc but along with all other T&E cables it has
it's maximum load reduced by 50% when fully buried in insulation.

Hence a a 6A MCB can generally supply a 1.0mm lighting circuit with a
load of 1.3kW where the cable is covered in insulation (other
considerations may be needed)

pendant lights are rated 100w max.



The OP did not say it was a pendant light.

It could be a big **** of chandelier with 10 x 100W lamps that he wants
to hold onto before giving the wife a good seeing to.


--
Adam

On Sunday, 23 April 2017 09:08:52 UTC+1, wrote:
On Sunday, 23 April 2017 07:59:53 UTC+1, Jeff Layman wrote:
With even lower power needed for lighting in these days of LEDs (and
CFLs), isn't rather a lot of metal being wasted unnecessarily in the
wire in lighting circuits?

It is.

Below 1mm conductors are physically less robust.

Bell wire is fine, in the robustness sense, for undisturbed wiring. And one can always go stranded.


NT

On Sunday, 23 April 2017 09:52:35 UTC+1, dennis@home wrote:
On 23/04/2017 07:38, tabbypurr wrote:

pendant lights are rated 100w max.

Never put a photoflood 2 lamp in a pendant before?

I've had other people do stupid things like that. 275W in a plastic holder does not go well.


NT

On Sunday, 23 April 2017 12:12:31 UTC+1, ARW wrote:
On 23/04/2017 07:38, tabbypurr wrote:
On Sunday, 23 April 2017 06:50:50 UTC+1, ARW wrote:
On 22/04/2017 22:35, Roger Mills wrote:
On 22/04/2017 21:57, ss wrote:
I am sure the answer I had before was that it was ok to put a choc box
connection in the existing light wiring and take a lead to the new
location (about 2 metres max)
The idea is I can do this from the room below as I am trying to avoid
going in to the attic and wrestling with the insulation and it will be
in a cramped location with no flooring.

Question:
When I feed the `new` cable along to the new location it will
effectively be under the insulation, will this be ok?

The cable will have a lower current rating if any heat it generates
can't escape, but it's ok as long as you take account of this.

Hopefully Adam or someone will be along with chapter and verse, but if
it's a single light, I imagine that 1mm or 1.5mm cable will be ok.

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/...g_A_Cable_Size

gives all the details.

But the quick reply is that 1mm T&E has a maximum rating of 16A when
clipped direct/in the air etc but along with all other T&E cables it has
it's maximum load reduced by 50% when fully buried in insulation.

Hence a a 6A MCB can generally supply a 1.0mm lighting circuit with a
load of 1.3kW where the cable is covered in insulation (other
considerations may be needed)

pendant lights are rated 100w max.



The OP did not say it was a pendant light.

It could be a big **** of chandelier with 10 x 100W lamps that he wants
to hold onto before giving the wife a good seeing to.

1kW 4A is still well below the ampacity of 1mm2 in insulation.


NT

On 23/04/2017 12:12, ARW wrote:
The OP did not say it was a pendant light.

It could be a big **** of chandelier with 10 x 100W lamps that he wants
to hold onto before giving the wife a good seeing to.

It is a pendant light 1 x 60w bulb

On 23/04/2017 13:50, ss wrote:
On 23/04/2017 12:12, ARW wrote:
The OP did not say it was a pendant light.

It could be a big **** of chandelier with 10 x 100W lamps that he wants
to hold onto before giving the wife a good seeing to.

It is a pendant light 1 x 60w bulb

OK, and she is still going to get a good seeing to?



--
Adam

On 23/04/2017 07:59, Jeff Layman wrote:
On 23/04/17 03:18, John Rumm wrote:

Its not usually a problem with lighting circuits since the cable is
significantly over specified in the first place.

Do you know if this is a hangover from the 20s and 30s when "lighting"
circuits were often used for devices with a moderate power consumption?

Not so much that, more a case of 1mm^2 is the smallest T&E used and
anything smaller would start to get a bit fragile, not to mention the
resistance would creep up - hence more brightness variation and longer
disconnect times in the event of a fault.

Also there is a (not often used) standard lighting circuit protected
with a 10A MCB, and that is somewhat closer to the 1mm^2 11.5A "in
conduit" rating for the cable.

I can most certainly remember in the 50s when my mother used to iron by
plugging it (bayonet plug) into a two-way connector in the ceiling
light. As far as I remember, the only time the 15 amp wall socket was
used was for a 2 or 3-bar heater.

Indeed... A reflection of reality that in many properties, the only
electrical provision installed was for lighting. Sockets etc came later.

With even lower power needed for lighting in these days of LEDs (and
CFLs), isn't rather a lot of metal being wasted unnecessarily in the
wire in lighting circuits?

I suppose you could install a 0.75mm^2 T&E if there were such a thing,
but I expect in most cases the savings would be marginal.


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On 23/04/2017 07:38, wrote:
On Sunday, 23 April 2017 06:50:50 UTC+1, ARW wrote:
On 22/04/2017 22:35, Roger Mills wrote:
On 22/04/2017 21:57, ss wrote:
I am sure the answer I had before was that it was ok to put a choc box
connection in the existing light wiring and take a lead to the new
location (about 2 metres max)
The idea is I can do this from the room below as I am trying to avoid
going in to the attic and wrestling with the insulation and it will be
in a cramped location with no flooring.

Question:
When I feed the `new` cable along to the new location it will
effectively be under the insulation, will this be ok?

The cable will have a lower current rating if any heat it generates
can't escape, but it's ok as long as you take account of this.

Hopefully Adam or someone will be along with chapter and verse, but if
it's a single light, I imagine that 1mm or 1.5mm cable will be ok.

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/...g_A_Cable_Size

gives all the details.

But the quick reply is that 1mm T&E has a maximum rating of 16A when
clipped direct/in the air etc but along with all other T&E cables it has
it's maximum load reduced by 50% when fully buried in insulation.

Hence a a 6A MCB can generally supply a 1.0mm lighting circuit with a
load of 1.3kW where the cable is covered in insulation (other
considerations may be needed)

pendant lights are rated 100w max.

No, the nominal rating is 100W or the actual load, whichever is greater.

So one with a 500W radiant heater lamp would count as 500W not 100W.


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On 23/04/2017 12:55, wrote:
On Sunday, 23 April 2017 09:52:35 UTC+1, dennis@home wrote:
On 23/04/2017 07:38, tabbypurr wrote:

pendant lights are rated 100w max.

Never put a photoflood 2 lamp in a pendant before?

I've had other people do stupid things like that. 275W in a plastic holder does not go well.

150W GLS lamps were commonly available, and fine in a normal pendant
fitting. You had to take care with the choice of shade though.


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On 23/04/2017 07:59, Jeff Layman wrote:

I can most certainly remember in the 50s when my mother used to iron by
plugging it (bayonet plug) into a two-way connector in the ceiling
light.

An arrangement which IMO is much safer than using a wall socket: good
light on the work from ironing under the lamp and no trip hazard from
flex across the floor to a wall socket. Plus the educational benefits
available when fingers enter an empty socket in the adapter

--
Robin
reply-to address is (intended to be) valid

On Sunday, 23 April 2017 16:21:28 UTC+1, Robin wrote:
I can most certainly remember in the 50s when my mother used to iron by
plugging it (bayonet plug) into a two-way connector in the ceiling
light.
An arrangement which IMO is much safer than using a wall socket:

Slight lack of earthing though.

Owain

On Sunday, 23 April 2017 15:29:12 UTC+1, John Rumm wrote:
Also there is a (not often used) standard lighting circuit protected
with a 10A MCB, and that is somewhat closer to the 1mm^2 11.5A "in
conduit" rating for the cable.

I think 10A lighting circuits are much more common in commercial premises with banks of fluorescents, but usually 1.5mm cable would be used.

Owain

On Sunday, 23 April 2017 15:31:09 UTC+1, John Rumm wrote:
On 23/04/2017 07:38, tabbypurr wrote:
On Sunday, 23 April 2017 06:50:50 UTC+1, ARW wrote:

But the quick reply is that 1mm T&E has a maximum rating of 16A when
clipped direct/in the air etc but along with all other T&E cables it has
it's maximum load reduced by 50% when fully buried in insulation.

Hence a a 6A MCB can generally supply a 1.0mm lighting circuit with a
load of 1.3kW where the cable is covered in insulation (other
considerations may be needed)

pendant lights are rated 100w max.

No, the nominal rating is 100W or the actual load, whichever is greater.

So one with a 500W radiant heater lamp would count as 500W not 100W.

Those don't plug into pendant BC sockets.


NT

On Sunday, 23 April 2017 15:32:22 UTC+1, John Rumm wrote:
On 23/04/2017 12:55, tabbypurr wrote:
On Sunday, 23 April 2017 09:52:35 UTC+1, dennis@home wrote:
On 23/04/2017 07:38, tabbypurr wrote:

pendant lights are rated 100w max.

Never put a photoflood 2 lamp in a pendant before?

I've had other people do stupid things like that. 275W in a plastic holder does not go well.

150W GLS lamps were commonly available, and fine in a normal pendant
fitting. You had to take care with the choice of shade though.

There's more than one grade of pendant, they have different max wattage ratings. Is it T1 & T2?


NT

On Sunday, 23 April 2017 17:13:34 UTC+1, wrote:
On Sunday, 23 April 2017 16:21:28 UTC+1, Robin wrote:
I can most certainly remember in the 50s when my mother used to iron by
plugging it (bayonet plug) into a two-way connector in the ceiling
light.
An arrangement which IMO is much safer than using a wall socket:

Slight lack of earthing though.

Owain

Those old lights often had insulation fallen off on the pendant flex & metal holders, there was no earthing, cordgrips were often inadequate or absent, wire connections were sometimes lousy press-fit, you were looking into a lightbulb when plugging it into a socket that welcomed fingers. But other than that, yes, very safe.


NT

In article ,
ARW wrote:
On 23/04/2017 11:24, charles wrote:
In article . com,
dennis@home wrote:
On 23/04/2017 07:38, wrote:

pendant lights are rated 100w max.

Never put a photoflood 2 lamp in a pendant before?

and we used to have 200w ES ones in our village hall. Now using 120w
halogens - when I can still get them.


LED next?

possibly - but I haven't seen any with sufficient output yet and they'd
need to be dimmable.

--
from KT24 in Surrey, England

In article ,
John Rumm wrote:
On 23/04/2017 07:59, Jeff Layman wrote:
On 23/04/17 03:18, John Rumm wrote:

Its not usually a problem with lighting circuits since the cable is
significantly over specified in the first place.

Do you know if this is a hangover from the 20s and 30s when "lighting"
circuits were often used for devices with a moderate power consumption?

Not so much that, more a case of 1mm^2 is the smallest T&E used and
anything smaller would start to get a bit fragile, not to mention the
resistance would creep up - hence more brightness variation and longer
disconnect times in the event of a fault.

Also there is a (not often used) standard lighting circuit protected
with a 10A MCB, and that is somewhat closer to the 1mm^2 11.5A "in
conduit" rating for the cable.

I can most certainly remember in the 50s when my mother used to iron by
plugging it (bayonet plug) into a two-way connector in the ceiling
light. As far as I remember, the only time the 15 amp wall socket was
used was for a 2 or 3-bar heater.

Indeed... A reflection of reality that in many properties, the only
electrical provision installed was for lighting. Sockets etc came later.

Our first house, wired in 1947, had 4 "power points"; one in each bedroom
and one in the kitchen. There was a 2A socket off the lighting circuit in
the living room.

--
from KT24 in Surrey, England

On Sunday, 23 April 2017 18:30:11 UTC+1, wrote:
So one with a 500W radiant heater lamp would count as 500W not 100W.
Those don't plug into pendant BC sockets.

I've found 250 watt BS and 300 watt ES

https://www.thelightbulb.co.uk/300-w...front-infrared

Owain

On 23/04/2017 12:55, wrote:
On Sunday, 23 April 2017 09:52:35 UTC+1, dennis@home wrote:
On 23/04/2017 07:38, tabbypurr wrote:

pendant lights are rated 100w max.

Never put a photoflood 2 lamp in a pendant before?

I've had other people do stupid things like that. 275W in a plastic holder does not go well.


NT


Nearly double that, 500W.

On Sunday, 23 April 2017 19:27:06 UTC+1, wrote:
On Sunday, 23 April 2017 18:30:11 UTC+1, tabby wrote:

So one with a 500W radiant heater lamp would count as 500W not 100W.
Those don't plug into pendant BC sockets.

I've found 250 watt BS and 300 watt ES

https://www.thelightbulb.co.uk/300-w...front-infrared

Owain

You can get higher power than that. But BR uses 100w each as the rule IIRC.


NT

On 23/04/2017 18:57, charles wrote:
In article ,
ARW wrote:
On 23/04/2017 11:24, charles wrote:
In article . com,
dennis@home wrote:
On 23/04/2017 07:38, wrote:

pendant lights are rated 100w max.

Never put a photoflood 2 lamp in a pendant before?

and we used to have 200w ES ones in our village hall. Now using 120w
halogens - when I can still get them.


LED next?

possibly - but I haven't seen any with sufficient output yet and they'd
need to be dimmable.


You can certainly get them bright enough..

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Dephen-Repl.../dp/B01FJQG9YA

Finding a dimmable one will require a bit more googling.

Fitting new LED panels is probably a better idea.

In article . com,
dennis@home wrote:
On 23/04/2017 18:57, charles wrote:
In article ,
ARW wrote:
On 23/04/2017 11:24, charles wrote:
In article . com,
dennis@home wrote:
On 23/04/2017 07:38, wrote:

pendant lights are rated 100w max.

Never put a photoflood 2 lamp in a pendant before?

and we used to have 200w ES ones in our village hall. Now using 120w
halogens - when I can still get them.


LED next?

possibly - but I haven't seen any with sufficient output yet and they'd
need to be dimmable.


You can certainly get them bright enough..

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Dephen-Repl.../dp/B01FJQG9YA

I don't think our hirers would like such a "cold" colour temperature

Finding a dimmable one will require a bit more googling.

I'd prefer to look at a trade show.

Fitting new LED panels is probably a better idea.

but it would probably involve a major rewiring job - and would involve
scaffolding because of the ceiling height. That might mean closing the hall
to hirers for a week. Not a good idea.

--
from KT24 in Surrey, England

On 23/04/2017 18:34, wrote:
On Sunday, 23 April 2017 15:32:22 UTC+1, John Rumm wrote:
On 23/04/2017 12:55, tabbypurr wrote:
On Sunday, 23 April 2017 09:52:35 UTC+1, dennis@home wrote:
On 23/04/2017 07:38, tabbypurr wrote:

pendant lights are rated 100w max.

Never put a photoflood 2 lamp in a pendant before?

I've had other people do stupid things like that. 275W in a plastic holder does not go well.

150W GLS lamps were commonly available, and fine in a normal pendant
fitting. You had to take care with the choice of shade though.

There's more than one grade of pendant, they have different max wattage ratings. Is it T1 & T2?

Yup, the BS specifies that they are tested with cap temperature of 175
deg C for T1 and 220 deg C for T2 - however it states that is not to be
confused with the limiting temperature for operation, and refers to IEC
60432. That talks about 12 month average temps and for 150 and 200W
lamps specifies the average should not exceed 135 deg C for a normal
bayonet cap lamp. (which suggests that in reality, either grade of
holder should survive a 150W lamp)


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On 23/04/2017 19:00, charles wrote:
In article ,
John Rumm wrote:
On 23/04/2017 07:59, Jeff Layman wrote:
On 23/04/17 03:18, John Rumm wrote:

Its not usually a problem with lighting circuits since the cable is
significantly over specified in the first place.

Do you know if this is a hangover from the 20s and 30s when "lighting"
circuits were often used for devices with a moderate power consumption?

Not so much that, more a case of 1mm^2 is the smallest T&E used and
anything smaller would start to get a bit fragile, not to mention the
resistance would creep up - hence more brightness variation and longer
disconnect times in the event of a fault.

Also there is a (not often used) standard lighting circuit protected
with a 10A MCB, and that is somewhat closer to the 1mm^2 11.5A "in
conduit" rating for the cable.

I can most certainly remember in the 50s when my mother used to iron by
plugging it (bayonet plug) into a two-way connector in the ceiling
light. As far as I remember, the only time the 15 amp wall socket was
used was for a 2 or 3-bar heater.

Indeed... A reflection of reality that in many properties, the only
electrical provision installed was for lighting. Sockets etc came later.

Our first house, wired in 1947, had 4 "power points"; one in each bedroom
and one in the kitchen. There was a 2A socket off the lighting circuit in
the living room.

When at my last place, I rewired the neighbours adjoining semi for them.
That had its original 1956 rubber wiring. Very similar provision on the
socket front - although it may have had five sockets originally!


--
Cheers,

John.

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On Sunday, 23 April 2017 22:57:24 UTC+1, John Rumm wrote:
Our first house, wired in 1947, had 4 "power points"; one in each bedroom...
When at my last place, I rewired the neighbours adjoining semi for them.
That had its original 1956 rubber wiring. Very similar provision on the
socket front - although it may have had five sockets originally!

My mum's 1968 bungalow had *no* sockets in the third bedroom.

My 1968 council flat was comparatively well equipped with 2 sockets in each bedroom and lounge and *three* in the kitchen plus a cooker point.

Owain

My mum's 1968 bungalow had *no* sockets in the third bedroom.

My 1968 council flat was comparatively well equipped with 2 sockets in each bedroom and lounge and *three* in the kitchen plus a cooker point.

The new build my parents bought in 1962 had no sockets in the third bedroom, one single in each of the other bedrooms, two singles in the through lounge, three singles in the kitchen only because one should have been a cooker point but they opted for gas and a single in the corridor. I think in those days you got what you were given and there were no options for adding additional sockets. Oddly enough there was provision for two wall lights as well as a centre light in the lounge, fortunetly they did not go for those "Clam shell" types that were all the rage in the 50s.

Richard