New oak flooring fitted, old skirtings removed first so that 12mm
expansion gap is covered by new 20mm oak skirting, rather than quarter
beading.

Internal corners nicely scribed, only one external mitred corner, walls
are about half and half brick/block vs stud/plasterboard.

Would you

a1) Stick with gripfill, I can't believe it's not nails etc?

a2) Fix with lost head nails into sole plates of stud walls, and dowels
drilled into block walls to make sites for nails? Fill the nail holes
with colour matched filler and then varnish.

a3) Fix with screws and rawlplugs, use plug cutter to cover countersunk
screws with plugs made from offcuts?


To fill gap along top of skirting, would you

b1) Apply masking tape, caulk the gap and paint caulk same colour as wall?

b2) Use clear silicone instead of caulk?

In message , Andy Burns
writes
New oak flooring fitted, old skirtings removed first so that 12mm
expansion gap is covered by new 20mm oak skirting, rather than quarter
beading.

Internal corners nicely scribed, only one external mitred corner, walls
are about half and half brick/block vs stud/plasterboard.

Would you

a1) Stick with gripfill, I can't believe it's not nails etc?

a2) Fix with lost head nails into sole plates of stud walls, and dowels
drilled into block walls to make sites for nails? Fill the nail holes
with colour matched filler and then varnish.

a3) Fix with screws and rawlplugs, use plug cutter to cover countersunk
screws with plugs made from offcuts?

Umm.. I'd avoid using nails in fresh Oak. Risk of discolouration.
Stainless screws perhaps.

I've cut plugs for decorative ceiling beams successfully.


To fill gap along top of skirting, would you

b1) Apply masking tape, caulk the gap and paint caulk same colour as wall?

b2) Use clear silicone instead of caulk?

Pass. Why is there a gap anyway?



--
Tim Lamb

On 25/03/2017 18:23, Andy Burns wrote:
New oak flooring fitted, old skirtings removed first so that 12mm
expansion gap is covered by new 20mm oak skirting, rather than quarter
beading.

Internal corners nicely scribed, only one external mitred corner, walls
are about half and half brick/block vs stud/plasterboard.

Would you

a1) Stick with gripfill, I can't believe it's not nails etc?

a2) Fix with lost head nails into sole plates of stud walls, and dowels
drilled into block walls to make sites for nails? Fill the nail holes
with colour matched filler and then varnish.

a3) Fix with screws and rawlplugs, use plug cutter to cover countersunk
screws with plugs made from offcuts?


To fill gap along top of skirting, would you

b1) Apply masking tape, caulk the gap and paint caulk same colour as wall?

b2) Use clear silicone instead of caulk?



I would stick with Gripfill. Sit the skirting on thin card - which you
can subsequently remove - on top of the floor so that the floor can
expand and contract without binding on the skirting.

Hopefully there shouldn't be any gaps. If either the wall or the
skirting is not absolutely straight, hold the skirting tight to the wall
while the Gripfill cures. The best way to do this is to use pairs of
long pieces of 3x2 with a quick clamp in spreader mode between the two
pieces of a pair to brace against the opposite wall.
--
Cheers,
Roger
____________
Please reply to Newsgroup. Whilst email address is valid, it is seldom
checked.

Tim Lamb wrote:

Andy Burns wrote:

a2) Fix with lost head nails

I'd avoid using nails in fresh Oak. Risk of discolouration.
Stainless screws perhaps.

It's not exactly fresh, the skirting was bought pre-lacquered close to a
decade ago!

I've cut plugs for decorative ceiling beams successfully.

I've cut them OK for 'garden quality' carpentry, not tried for internal
stuff.

To fill gap along top of skirting, would you

Why is there a gap anyway?

Wavy plastering!

If I screw it, I'll probably be able to close the gaps, with smallish
nails I'd worry about them pulling out and re-opening the gap, I don't
think NmN would have the sticking power required to bend and hold 3/4"
oak in place.

Andy Burns wrote:
New oak flooring fitted, old skirtings removed first so that 12mm
expansion gap is covered by new 20mm oak skirting, rather than quarter
beading.

Internal corners nicely scribed, only one external mitred corner,
walls are about half and half brick/block vs stud/plasterboard.

Would you

a1) Stick with gripfill, I can't believe it's not nails etc?

using such chemicals on oak would IMO be an atrocity.
It's OK for mdf / cheap skanky softwood that will be in a skip in 10 years,
but oak may get re-used somewhere else

a2) Fix with lost head nails into sole plates of stud walls, and
dowels drilled into block walls to make sites for nails? Fill the
nail holes with colour matched filler and then varnish.

a3) Fix with screws and rawlplugs, use plug cutter to cover
countersunk screws with plugs made from offcuts?

A3


To fill gap along top of skirting, would you

b1) Apply masking tape, caulk the gap and paint caulk same colour as
wall?

B1

b2) Use clear silicone instead of caulk?

On 25/03/17 18:23, Andy Burns wrote:
New oak flooring fitted, old skirtings removed first so that 12mm
expansion gap is covered by new 20mm oak skirting, rather than quarter
beading.

Internal corners nicely scribed, only one external mitred corner, walls
are about half and half brick/block vs stud/plasterboard.

Would you



a3) Fix with screws and rawlplugs, use plug cutter to cover countersunk
screws with plugs made from offcuts?

This ^^^

Use stainless or brass screws - if iron ones gets damp (OK unlikely
indoors) it can stain oak.

It's what I did and it did allow me to pull the skirting into the curves
a bit - and contrary to some opinion, that looks fine to me.

Wobbly wall syndrome I'd imagine. Oak is very hard to work with.
Definitely use some form of screws. As for sealant, well, whatever you use
probably won't last that long in my experience.
Brian

--
----- -
This newsgroup posting comes to you directly from...
The Sofa of Brian Gaff...

Blind user, so no pictures please!
"Tim Lamb" wrote in message
...
In message , Andy Burns
writes
New oak flooring fitted, old skirtings removed first so that 12mm
expansion gap is covered by new 20mm oak skirting, rather than quarter
beading.

Internal corners nicely scribed, only one external mitred corner, walls
are about half and half brick/block vs stud/plasterboard.

Would you

a1) Stick with gripfill, I can't believe it's not nails etc?

a2) Fix with lost head nails into sole plates of stud walls, and dowels
drilled into block walls to make sites for nails? Fill the nail holes
with colour matched filler and then varnish.

a3) Fix with screws and rawlplugs, use plug cutter to cover countersunk
screws with plugs made from offcuts?

Umm.. I'd avoid using nails in fresh Oak. Risk of discolouration.
Stainless screws perhaps.

I've cut plugs for decorative ceiling beams successfully.


To fill gap along top of skirting, would you

b1) Apply masking tape, caulk the gap and paint caulk same colour as wall?

b2) Use clear silicone instead of caulk?

Pass. Why is there a gap anyway?



--
Tim Lamb

Brian Gaff wrote:

Wobbly wall syndrome I'd imagine.

Yep, almost nothing here is square, level, true or plumb, or in the case
of plaster consistent thickness.

Oak is very hard to work with.

Tell that by the smoke billowing from the mitre saw blade this morning.

Though I have realised that partly the gap was due a curve in one length
of skirting, coinciding with a bulge in a wall, so swapping two boards
over means less "pull-in" is now required.

Definitely use some form of screws. As for sealant, well, whatever you use
probably won't last that long in my experience.

Yes, I think I will go for the screws and plugs, means I can fix it now,
then remove it again in a few weeks when I also plan to remove the
radiator, then I'll have unhindered access to paint the walls, refit the
skirting and plug the holes at that point.

Coming dangerously close to the second room I'll have finished in this
place, several have got part-way through and then paused for a year (or
decade) and been undone and are part-way through again.

On 25/03/2017 18:23, Andy Burns wrote:
New oak flooring fitted, old skirtings removed first so that 12mm
expansion gap is covered by new 20mm oak skirting, rather than quarter
beading.

Internal corners nicely scribed, only one external mitred corner, walls
are about half and half brick/block vs stud/plasterboard.

Would you

a1) Stick with gripfill, I can't believe it's not nails etc?

a2) Fix with lost head nails into sole plates of stud walls, and dowels
drilled into block walls to make sites for nails? Fill the nail holes
with colour matched filler and then varnish.

a3) Fix with screws and rawlplugs, use plug cutter to cover countersunk
screws with plugs made from offcuts?


To fill gap along top of skirting, would you

b1) Apply masking tape, caulk the gap and paint caulk same colour as wall?

b2) Use clear silicone instead of caulk?

I've never had success with "gripfill" and skirting boards.
A: it's too thick and skins over too quickly
B: it never "grips" sufficiently and always leaves a bigger gap between
wall and skirting then you want/need

By far the best way I've found for a nail/screw free fix is.....
Expanding foam. Gun grade basic stuff that has a low expansion rate.

That, an atomiser spray with water and some concrete blocks etc to hold
in place while the foam does it's magic.

Quick spray along the wall and the same along the back of the skirting
to dampen both surfaces then zig-zag foam along skirting and put into
position. Place weights/blocks in position and move on to sanding off
the next bit.

On some particularly tricky lengths where I didn't have enough
weights/blocks I've sat on the floor using my feet to hold the skirting
in place for 10 minutes.

Sticks way better than grip-fill, leaves minimal gap between wall (if
any) and fills any wall unevenness in the process.

Screwfix no-nonsense stuff and a gun is what I used the other month to
do a 3x4m room and a 4.5 x 5.5m room (both "new" rooms/plaster)

Only had to use 2 screws in the bigger room where the skirting had
warped slightly and the mitre joints between lengths wouldn't sit flush
(opposite ends were locked into the corners by previous skirting run)

On 25/03/2017 18:23, Andy Burns wrote:
New oak flooring fitted, old skirtings removed first so that 12mm
expansion gap is covered by new 20mm oak skirting, rather than quarter
beading.

Internal corners nicely scribed, only one external mitred corner, walls
are about half and half brick/block vs stud/plasterboard.

Would you

a1) Stick with gripfill, I can't believe it's not nails etc?

a2) Fix with lost head nails into sole plates of stud walls, and dowels
drilled into block walls to make sites for nails? Fill the nail holes
with colour matched filler and then varnish.

a3) Fix with screws and rawlplugs, use plug cutter to cover countersunk
screws with plugs made from offcuts?


To fill gap along top of skirting, would you

b1) Apply masking tape, caulk the gap and paint caulk same colour as wall?

b2) Use clear silicone instead of caulk?

Another option is fixing with brass screws and cup-washers, thus making
a feature of the fixings. This would allow easy removal at any time,
leaving a handy cable duct behind for phone wires, network cables, etc.

SteveW

Steve Walker wrote:

Another option is fixing with brass screws and cup-washers, thus making
a feature of the fixings. This would allow easy removal at any time,

Actually that's worth a thought, I happen to have some of both stashed
away ...

leaving a handy cable duct behind for phone wires, network cables, etc.

Already have three compartment dado trunking run round the wall under
the desk for that ...

Andy Burns wrote:

Steve Walker wrote:

Another option is fixing with brass screws and cup-washers

I happen to have some of both stashed away ...

It turns out I don't have as many long brass screws as I thought.
They're not cheap nowadays, are they?

In article ,
Andy Burns wrote:
a3) Fix with screws and rawlplugs, use plug cutter to cover countersunk
screws with plugs made from offcuts?

That's the only way. ;-)

--
*Don't squat with your spurs on *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On 26/03/2017 13:19, Pet @ www.gymratz.co.uk ;¬) wrote:
On 25/03/2017 18:23, Andy Burns wrote:
New oak flooring fitted, old skirtings removed first so that 12mm
expansion gap is covered by new 20mm oak skirting, rather than quarter
beading.

Internal corners nicely scribed, only one external mitred corner, walls
are about half and half brick/block vs stud/plasterboard.

Would you

a1) Stick with gripfill, I can't believe it's not nails etc?

a2) Fix with lost head nails into sole plates of stud walls, and dowels
drilled into block walls to make sites for nails? Fill the nail holes
with colour matched filler and then varnish.

a3) Fix with screws and rawlplugs, use plug cutter to cover countersunk
screws with plugs made from offcuts?


To fill gap along top of skirting, would you

b1) Apply masking tape, caulk the gap and paint caulk same colour as wall?

b2) Use clear silicone instead of caulk?

I've never had success with "gripfill" and skirting boards.
A: it's too thick and skins over too quickly
B: it never "grips" sufficiently and always leaves a bigger gap between
wall and skirting then you want/need

By far the best way I've found for a nail/screw free fix is.....
Expanding foam. Gun grade basic stuff that has a low expansion rate.


snip

Which is the method I've been using. I tried it as a temporary fixing
and found it had stuck fast.

--
Cheers, Rob

On 04/04/2017 20:28, RJH wrote:

By far the best way I've found for a nail/screw free fix is.....
Expanding foam. Gun grade basic stuff that has a low expansion rate.

Which is the method I've been using. I tried it as a temporary fixing
and found it had stuck fast.

I use it for sticking all sorts of things these days.
It's my new building adhesive of choice.

On 25/03/2017 18:23, Andy Burns wrote:
New oak flooring fitted, old skirtings removed first so that 12mm
expansion gap is covered by new 20mm oak skirting, rather than quarter
beading.

Internal corners nicely scribed, only one external mitred corner, walls
are about half and half brick/block vs stud/plasterboard.

Would you

a1) Stick with gripfill, I can't believe it's not nails etc?

a2) Fix with lost head nails into sole plates of stud walls, and dowels
drilled into block walls to make sites for nails? Fill the nail holes
with colour matched filler and then varnish.

a3) Fix with screws and rawlplugs, use plug cutter to cover countersunk
screws with plugs made from offcuts?


To fill gap along top of skirting, would you

b1) Apply masking tape, caulk the gap and paint caulk same colour as wall?

b2) Use clear silicone instead of caulk?



'No More Nails' and some heavy objects to hold in place- perhaps piles
of books- while it 'sets'. No More Nails tends to 'grab' quite well.

Normally I fit temporary blocks to the floor and use wedges etc but
obviously you can't do that.

Another, more complex idea. Make some metal 'hooks' out of flat strip
which slip under the skirting and hook over the edge of the flooring.
Bend the 'free' end up and wedge against it. Make enough 'hooks' for a
section, glue one, remove and reuse the hooks.

As for the gap, depends how large it is. A flexible filler is generally
best, as I'm sure you know. You can get coloured ones which may mask the
gap. Personally, I'd try to 'match' the wood. Walls tend to be lighter
in colour and the filler discolours.

As an aside, the oak floors sound very nice. ;-)

www.GymRatZ.co.uk wrote:
On 04/04/2017 20:28, RJH wrote:

By far the best way I've found for a nail/screw free fix is.....
Expanding foam. Gun grade basic stuff that has a low expansion rate.

Which is the method I've been using. I tried it as a temporary fixing
and found it had stuck fast.

I use it for sticking all sorts of things these days.
It's my new building adhesive of choice.

What happens (if using *any* sort of adhesive) when you want to remove
the stuck on whatever?

--
Chris Green
·

On 05/04/2017 18:55, Chris Green wrote:
www.GymRatZ.co.uk wrote:
On 04/04/2017 20:28, RJH wrote:

By far the best way I've found for a nail/screw free fix is.....
Expanding foam. Gun grade basic stuff that has a low expansion rate.

Which is the method I've been using. I tried it as a temporary fixing
and found it had stuck fast.

I use it for sticking all sorts of things these days.
It's my new building adhesive of choice.


Gun grade/gun is a revelation - I use it to stick/seal all manner of things.

What happens (if using *any* sort of adhesive) when you want to remove
the stuck on whatever?


The foam is quite easily broken by sliding a steel rule between the
skirting board and the wall. But it can be an absolute pig to remove in
some situations.

--
Cheers, Rob

Brian Reay Wrote in message:
On 25/03/2017 18:23, Andy Burns wrote:
New oak flooring fitted, old skirtings removed first so that 12mm
expansion gap is covered by new 20mm oak skirting, rather than quarter
beading.

Internal corners nicely scribed, only one external mitred corner, walls
are about half and half brick/block vs stud/plasterboard.

Would you

a1) Stick with gripfill, I can't believe it's not nails etc?

a2) Fix with lost head nails into sole plates of stud walls, and dowels
drilled into block walls to make sites for nails? Fill the nail holes
with colour matched filler and then varnish.

a3) Fix with screws and rawlplugs, use plug cutter to cover countersunk
screws with plugs made from offcuts?


To fill gap along top of skirting, would you

b1) Apply masking tape, caulk the gap and paint caulk same colour as wall?

b2) Use clear silicone instead of caulk?



'No More Nails' and some heavy objects to hold in place- perhaps piles
of books- while it 'sets'. No More Nails tends to 'grab' quite well.

Normally I fit temporary blocks to the floor and use wedges etc but
obviously you can't do that.

Another, more complex idea. Make some metal 'hooks' out of flat strip
which slip under the skirting and hook over the edge of the flooring.
Bend the 'free' end up and wedge against it. Make enough 'hooks' for a
section, glue one, remove and reuse the hooks.

How do.you get the "hooked over the edge of the flooring" bit out
past the now stuck skirting?

--
Jim K


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