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UK diy (uk.d-i-y) For the discussion of all topics related to diy (do-it-yourself) in the UK. All levels of experience and proficency are welcome to join in to ask questions or offer solutions. |
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#1
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Only one chance to drill tile
Complete novice (and simpleton) needs to drill into two kitchen wall tiles
to put up a magnetic knife rack. The tiles are ancient, and if i crack them or drill out of level tiles could not be replaced with matching ones. It's also right near the sink where 'she who must be obeyed' will see it all day. If i mess up, i'm dead or worse. I've seen a workman drill into kitchen tiles and initially his drill goes 'all over the place' until it 'bites'. He's probably had a lot of experience at this, i'm guessing that for me it would bite in the wrong place. Grateful for any tips on the 'safest' way for me to drill the tiles. Thanks. |
#2
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Only one chance to drill tile
In article ,
john eastwood wrote: Complete novice (and simpleton) needs to drill into two kitchen wall tiles to put up a magnetic knife rack. The tiles are ancient, and if i crack them or drill out of level tiles could not be replaced with matching ones. It's also right near the sink where 'she who must be obeyed' will see it all day. If i mess up, i'm dead or worse. I've seen a workman drill into kitchen tiles and initially his drill goes 'all over the place' until it 'bites'. He's probably had a lot of experience at this, i'm guessing that for me it would bite in the wrong place. Grateful for any tips on the 'safest' way for me to drill the tiles. Thanks. Get a proper tile drill. Parallel shank with a trangle shaped tip with a sharp point. Go slow and use that to go through the glaze and most of the tile, then see what lies beyond - you might then need a conventional masonry drill. Gordon |
#3
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Only one chance to drill tile
On 23/01/2011 10:51, john eastwood wrote:
Complete novice (and simpleton) needs to drill into two kitchen wall tiles to put up a magnetic knife rack. The tiles are ancient, and if i crack them or drill out of level tiles could not be replaced with matching ones. It's also right near the sink where 'she who must be obeyed' will see it all day. If i mess up, i'm dead or worse. Have a go. You may be successful and there are ways to stop a drill skidding. The last time I did this was to start with a small 3mm new masonary drill, switch the hammer action off, apply light pressure - and get close in tight with the wall so that there was no axial wobbling about. Then when the glaze was glowing (from friction) then broken, I swapped up to larger drills. But I ain't no pro. In case of no success, plan B. Cover the afflicted area with a plank of wood and screw the rack to that. Pub food for the next week ain't that bad.... -- Adrian C |
#4
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Only one chance to drill tile
On 23/01/2011 10:51, john eastwood wrote:
Complete novice (and simpleton) needs to drill into two kitchen wall tiles to put up a magnetic knife rack. The tiles are ancient, and if i crack them or drill out of level tiles could not be replaced with matching ones. It's also right near the sink where 'she who must be obeyed' will see it all day. If i mess up, i'm dead or worse. I've seen a workman drill into kitchen tiles and initially his drill goes 'all over the place' until it 'bites'. He's probably had a lot of experience at this, i'm guessing that for me it would bite in the wrong place. Grateful for any tips on the 'safest' way for me to drill the tiles. Thanks. Get a Bosch Multi Material drill bit kike this:- http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Powe.../sd1350/p96753 You also need a drill with good speed control. These multi material drills have a very sharp point, unlike a normal masonry bit. Position it, push hard & you will hear & feel the bit penetrate the glaze on the tile. Now it won't wander about. Now start the drill on low speed, no hammer, and slowly drill through the tile. Once through the tile speed up & use hammer action if required. Use wall plugs 'without' a lip like these:- http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Scre.../sd2060/p51158 Make sure the plug goes behind the tile, the end can expand as the screw goes in & crack the tile. -- Dave - The Medway Handyman www.medwayhandyman.co.uk |
#5
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Only one chance to drill tile
In article , Adrian C
wrote: Complete novice (and simpleton) needs to drill into two kitchen wall tiles to put up a magnetic knife rack. The tiles are ancient, and if i crack them or drill out of level tiles could not be replaced with matching ones. It's also right near the sink where 'she who must be obeyed' will see it all day. If i mess up, i'm dead or worse. Have a go. You may be successful and there are ways to stop a drill skidding. Two methods I've used: Gentle tap tap tap with hammer and nail punch to chip through the glaze, even the smallest dimple will reduce drill bit skidding. Or, masking tape stuck to tile and start gently drilling through that John -- John Mulrooney NOTE Email address IS correct but might not be checked for a while. A controlled 'plane crash is usually called a landing. |
#6
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Only one chance to drill tile
john eastwood wrote:
Complete novice (and simpleton) needs to drill into two kitchen wall tiles to put up a magnetic knife rack. The tiles are ancient, and if i crack them or drill out of level tiles could not be replaced with matching ones. It's also right near the sink where 'she who must be obeyed' will see it all day. If i mess up, i'm dead or worse. I've seen a workman drill into kitchen tiles and initially his drill goes 'all over the place' until it 'bites'. He's probably had a lot of experience at this, i'm guessing that for me it would bite in the wrong place. Grateful for any tips on the 'safest' way for me to drill the tiles. Thanks. It would be a nightmare even for a professional to drill two holes in exactly the right relative positions. Don't even try this unless the rack design has already made provision for correcting for this, typically by its own holes (through which the mounting screws go) not being circular but elongated into ovals, one horizontal, the other vertical. One alternative option might be to mount the rack on a wooden plinth. Then you can drill the wall holes first, probably about an inch or two further apart than the rack's own holes. Expect the wall holes to be out of kilter, you can correct for this by drilling the plinth to match the wall holes (use a piece of tracing or greaseproof paper, cut to the shape of the plinth, aligned to lie exactly parallel to the tile edges, to transfer the holes to the back of the plinth). Countersink the front of the holes, mount the plinth to the wall, then mount the rack to the plinth. Option two: Consider using adhesive instead of screws. In fact, consider screwing the rack to a wooden plinth as above, but then using adhesive to fix the plinth to the tiles. You need to give the tiles a decent clean first, and use something like Sikaflex to stick it on. Option three (I think this is by far the best): Throw away the magnetic rack and store the knives where they belong: in a drawer. To persuade her of the wisdom of this, you could point out that in the drawer the knives will stay clean, whereas if out in the open 24/7, they will catch all the damp and grease you expect to be flying about in a kitchen, and in turn dust will stick to them, etc. |
#7
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Only one chance to drill tile
On 23/01/2011 11:00, Gordon Henderson wrote:
In , john wrote: Complete novice (and simpleton) needs to drill into two kitchen wall tiles to put up a magnetic knife rack. The tiles are ancient, and if i crack them or drill out of level tiles could not be replaced with matching ones. It's also right near the sink where 'she who must be obeyed' will see it all day. If i mess up, i'm dead or worse. I've seen a workman drill into kitchen tiles and initially his drill goes 'all over the place' until it 'bites'. He's probably had a lot of experience at this, i'm guessing that for me it would bite in the wrong place. Stick a piece of insulating or masking tape on the tile where you're drilling; that will stop it wandering. May need a couple of layers to make it thicker. Grateful for any tips on the 'safest' way for me to drill the tiles. Thanks. Get a proper tile drill. Parallel shank with a trangle shaped tip with a sharp point. Go slow and use that to go through the glaze and most of the tile, then see what lies beyond - you might then need a conventional masonry drill. I used to use an expensive tile drill bit until someone (here I think?) years ago told me that standard masonry bits work fine. That's what I've used ever since - and have never broken a tile by drilling it. The only time I *did* once come to grief is by not drilling a hole large enough, so once the wall plug was inserted and the screw tightened... CRACK! Be warned David |
#8
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Only one chance to drill tile
Gordon Henderson ) wibbled on Sunday 23 January
2011 11:00: In article , john eastwood wrote: Complete novice (and simpleton) needs to drill into two kitchen wall tiles to put up a magnetic knife rack. The tiles are ancient, and if i crack them or drill out of level tiles could not be replaced with matching ones. It's also right near the sink where 'she who must be obeyed' will see it all day. If i mess up, i'm dead or worse. If she whines, tell her to do it herself! I've seen a workman drill into kitchen tiles and initially his drill goes 'all over the place' until it 'bites'. He's probably had a lot of experience at this, i'm guessing that for me it would bite in the wrong place. Grateful for any tips on the 'safest' way for me to drill the tiles. Thanks. Get a proper tile drill. Parallel shank with a trangle shaped tip with a sharp point. Go slow and use that to go through the glaze and most of the tile, then see what lies beyond - you might then need a conventional masonry drill. Gordon +1 Yep - I have had quite a few "one chance" holes to do. Take the tile drill, press it gently into the glaze until you get the faintest of "crunchy" noises - that's the tip biting the glaze. Now it should not wander. Start the drill on slow with the lowest of pressures and allow the drill to grind its way in. Do not use hammer obviously. Go as far into the plaster as possible so the hole in the tile has parallel edges. Now you can go through with a masonry drill to deal with the brick if any. If it's just a plasterboard wall or celcon "cheeseblock" the tile drill will manage. Also, it is best IME to use a rawlplug that does not expand at the top - or one that can be pushed past the tile (ie a plug that does not have a top lip). You do not want the screw (more so with big screws) to expand and crack the tile. Probably won't be an issue for the little screws the knife rack needs, but worth remembering for bigger jobs. One further thing - if the screws can be put in a grout line, it reduces the risk to the tiles, but also if the rack is removed and the holes grouted over, the repair is nearly invisible. Cheers Tim -- Tim Watts |
#9
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Only one chance to drill tile
Ronald Raygun ) wibbled on Sunday 23 January
2011 11:36: It would be a nightmare even for a professional to drill two holes in exactly the right relative positions. Don't even try this unless the rack design has already made provision for correcting for this, typically by its own holes (through which the mounting screws go) not being circular but elongated into ovals, one horizontal, the other vertical. I don't agree - I have not been in the habit of drilling tiles untilrecently, but with a bit of care and the right tile bits, I got mine spot on to the mm. I had several brackets that needed fairly precise mounting. It's getting the tip to bite the glaze before starting the drill that makes the difference - once that is done, I've had no problems with wander. One alternative option might be to mount the rack on a wooden plinth. Then you can drill the wall holes first, probably about an inch or two further apart than the rack's own holes. Expect the wall holes to be out of kilter, you can correct for this by drilling the plinth to match the wall holes (use a piece of tracing or greaseproof paper, cut to the shape of the plinth, aligned to lie exactly parallel to the tile edges, to transfer the holes to the back of the plinth). Countersink the front of the holes, mount the plinth to the wall, then mount the rack to the plinth. There is that . Option two: Consider using adhesive instead of screws. In fact, consider screwing the rack to a wooden plinth as above, but then using adhesive to fix the plinth to the tiles. You need to give the tiles a decent clean first, and use something like Sikaflex to stick it on. Pinkgrip Option three (I think this is by far the best): Throw away the magnetic rack and store the knives where they belong: in a drawer. To persuade her of the wisdom of this, you could point out that in the drawer the knives will stay clean, whereas if out in the open 24/7, they will catch all the damp and grease you expect to be flying about in a kitchen, and in turn dust will stick to them, etc. -- Tim Watts |
#10
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Only one chance to drill tile
On Sun, 23 Jan 2011 11:28:53 +0000 (GMT), JTM wrote:
Gentle tap tap tap with hammer and nail punch to chip through the glaze, even the smallest dimple will reduce drill bit skidding. Yep by far the best way to get the drill to start. Not a nail punch that is blunt, use a center punch or sharpened round wire nail. You can position the tip of the punch/nail exactly where you want the hole and very gently break the glaze and enlarge the pit to take the tip of a tile drill or one of those Bosh multimaterial drills. Or, masking tape stuck to tile and start gently drilling through that Never had much success with that the drill still wanders a little. -- Cheers Dave. |
#11
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Only one chance to drill tile
"Tim Watts" wrote in message ... Ronald Raygun ) wibbled on Sunday 23 January 2011 11:36: It would be a nightmare even for a professional to drill two holes in exactly the right relative positions. Don't even try this unless the rack design has already made provision for correcting for this, typically by its own holes (through which the mounting screws go) not being circular but elongated into ovals, one horizontal, the other vertical. I don't agree - I have not been in the habit of drilling tiles untilrecently, but with a bit of care and the right tile bits, I got mine spot on to the mm. I had several brackets that needed fairly precise mounting. It's getting the tip to bite the glaze before starting the drill that makes the difference - once that is done, I've had no problems with wander. One alternative option might be to mount the rack on a wooden plinth. Then you can drill the wall holes first, probably about an inch or two further apart than the rack's own holes. Expect the wall holes to be out of kilter, you can correct for this by drilling the plinth to match the wall holes (use a piece of tracing or greaseproof paper, cut to the shape of the plinth, aligned to lie exactly parallel to the tile edges, to transfer the holes to the back of the plinth). Countersink the front of the holes, mount the plinth to the wall, then mount the rack to the plinth. There is that . Option two: Consider using adhesive instead of screws. In fact, consider screwing the rack to a wooden plinth as above, but then using adhesive to fix the plinth to the tiles. You need to give the tiles a decent clean first, and use something like Sikaflex to stick it on. Pinkgrip Option three (I think this is by far the best): Throw away the magnetic rack and store the knives where they belong: in a drawer. To persuade her of the wisdom of this, you could point out that in the drawer the knives will stay clean, whereas if out in the open 24/7, they will catch all the damp and grease you expect to be flying about in a kitchen, and in turn dust will stick to them, etc. -- Tim Watts I use the tape method (several layers) As you havent done this before get an old tile and practice a couple of times. This will give you a feel for how the drill reacts on the tile. |
#12
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Only one chance to drill tile
On 23/01/2011 10:51, john eastwood wrote:
Complete novice (and simpleton) needs to drill into two kitchen wall tiles to put up a magnetic knife rack. The tiles are ancient, and if i crack them or drill out of level tiles could not be replaced with matching ones. It's also right near the sink where 'she who must be obeyed' will see it all day. If i mess up, i'm dead or worse. I've seen a workman drill into kitchen tiles and initially his drill goes 'all over the place' until it 'bites'. He's probably had a lot of experience at this, i'm guessing that for me it would bite in the wrong place. Grateful for any tips on the 'safest' way for me to drill the tiles. Others have said what to do, but my thought is before doing it on the important one, why not practice somewhere else? Ok, not necessarily trivial to set up, but would mean you know what to expect when you get to the real thing. |
#13
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Only one chance to drill tile
On Jan 23, 10:51*am, "john eastwood"
wrote: Complete novice (and simpleton) needs to drill into two kitchen wall tiles to put up a magnetic knife rack. *The tiles are ancient, and if i crack them or drill out of level tiles could not be replaced with matching ones. It's also right near the sink where 'she who must be obeyed' will see it all day. If i mess up, i'm dead or worse. I've seen a workman drill into kitchen tiles and initially his drill goes 'all over the place' until it 'bites'. * He's probably had a lot of experience at this, i'm guessing that for me it would bite in the wrong place. Grateful for any tips on the 'safest' way for me to drill the tiles. Thanks. Definitely use masking tape. This wont stop wander but will reduce it usefully. Also use a tile bit, which is somewhat sharp, unlike masonry bits. The key point I find is to put the drill on max speed before the bit even touches the tile, if you dont do that it wanders. Use your hand on the drill to control the initial driling position. Once the hole's started it shouldnt wander. So now you've got just about all the methods offered, most of which contradict each other. NT |
#14
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Only one chance to drill tile
I use the tape method (several layers)
Exactly. Masking tape isn't that expensive, so push the boat out and give yourself a nice thick layer to get the drill started :-) I've never had a tile break when it's firmly fixed to the wall. It's when the adhesive isn't quite dry that you can have problems. |
#15
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Only one chance to drill tile
On 23/01/2011 10:51, john eastwood wrote:
Complete novice (and simpleton) needs to drill into two kitchen wall tiles to put up a magnetic knife rack. The tiles are ancient, and if i crack them or drill out of level tiles could not be replaced with matching ones. It's also right near the sink where 'she who must be obeyed' will see it all day. If i mess up, i'm dead or worse. I've seen a workman drill into kitchen tiles and initially his drill goes 'all over the place' until it 'bites'. He's probably had a lot of experience at this, i'm guessing that for me it would bite in the wrong place. Grateful for any tips on the 'safest' way for me to drill the tiles. Thanks. I always break the glaze with an automatic (spring-loaded) centre-punch, similar to this: http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/s...irmmt&istBid=t [Or use this http://tinyurl.com/4m3zkpk if the above link doesn't wrap properly] I can then drill precisely in the right place. -- Cheers, Roger ____________ Please reply to Newsgroup. Whilst email address is valid, it is seldom checked. |
#16
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Only one chance to drill tile
On Sun, 23 Jan 2011 12:48:04 +0000 (GMT), Dave Liquorice wrote:
On Sun, 23 Jan 2011 11:28:53 +0000 (GMT), JTM wrote: Gentle tap tap tap with hammer and nail punch to chip through the glaze, even the smallest dimple will reduce drill bit skidding. Yep by far the best way to get the drill to start. Not a nail punch that is blunt, use a center punch or sharpened round wire nail. You can position the tip of the punch/nail exactly where you want the hole and very gently break the glaze and enlarge the pit to take the tip of a tile drill or one of those Bosh multimaterial drills. Or, masking tape stuck to tile and start gently drilling through that Never had much success with that the drill still wanders a little. I used to use tape but have't done so for about a kilofortnight. Using a tile drill or small masonry bit, I start with the bit in a whell brace, hold the wheel instead of the handle and just rock the wheel a little bit. The bit can't wander because it does only part of a turn then goes back. With sufficient force it grinds into the glaze quite quickly. With cheap tiles and a sharp tile bit, I've done the same but just by holding the bit by hand. Once put a 5mm bit through a tile just by hand - not recommended for good tiles! -- Peter. The gods will stay away whilst religions hold sway |
#17
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Only one chance to drill tile
On 23/01/2011 13:04, SS wrote:
"Tim wrote in message ... Ronald Raygun ) wibbled on Sunday 23 January 2011 11:36: It would be a nightmare even for a professional to drill two holes in exactly the right relative positions. Don't even try this unless the rack design has already made provision for correcting for this, typically by its own holes (through which the mounting screws go) not being circular but elongated into ovals, one horizontal, the other vertical. I don't agree - I have not been in the habit of drilling tiles until recently, but with a bit of care and the right tile bits, I got mine spot on to the mm. I had several brackets that needed fairly precise mounting. It's getting the tip to bite the glaze before starting the drill that makes the difference - once that is done, I've had no problems with wander. Dead right. I fix things to tiles on an almost daily basis & just don't have any problems. -- Dave - The Medway Handyman www.medwayhandyman.co.uk |
#18
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Only one chance to drill tile
On 23/01/2011 14:22, Tabby wrote:
So now you've got just about all the methods offered, most of which contradict each other. Angle Grinder -- Adrian C |
#19
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Only one chance to drill tile
"john eastwood" wrote in message ... Complete novice (and simpleton) needs to drill into two kitchen wall tiles to put up a magnetic knife rack. The tiles are ancient, and if i crack them or drill out of level tiles could not be replaced with matching ones. It's also right near the sink where 'she who must be obeyed' will see it all day. If i mess up, i'm dead or worse. I've seen a workman drill into kitchen tiles and initially his drill goes 'all over the place' until it 'bites'. He's probably had a lot of experience at this, i'm guessing that for me it would bite in the wrong place. Grateful for any tips on the 'safest' way for me to drill the tiles. Thanks. This method has never failed for me. I use a narrow masonry drill bit, held in my hand (with a bit of cloth to protect my fingers) and just start the hole by hand to get through the glaze. Once that is done, I switch to the drill, with the right size bit and the job is easy. Tried once with tape but it was more nuisance than it was worth - haven't used it again. -- Tinkerer |
#20
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Only one chance to drill tile
On 23/01/2011 11:36, Ronald Raygun wrote:
john eastwood wrote: Complete novice (and simpleton) needs to drill into two kitchen wall tiles to put up a magnetic knife rack. The tiles are ancient, and if i crack them or drill out of level tiles could not be replaced with matching ones. It's also right near the sink where 'she who must be obeyed' will see it all day. If i mess up, i'm dead or worse. I've seen a workman drill into kitchen tiles and initially his drill goes 'all over the place' until it 'bites'. He's probably had a lot of experience at this, i'm guessing that for me it would bite in the wrong place. Grateful for any tips on the 'safest' way for me to drill the tiles. Thanks. It would be a nightmare even for a professional to drill two holes in exactly the right relative positions. Don't even try this unless the rack design has already made provision for correcting for this, typically by its own holes (through which the mounting screws go) not being circular but elongated into ovals, one horizontal, the other vertical. One alternative option might be to mount the rack on a wooden plinth. Then you can drill the wall holes first, probably about an inch or two further apart than the rack's own holes. Expect the wall holes to be out of kilter, you can correct for this by drilling the plinth to match the wall holes (use a piece of tracing or greaseproof paper, cut to the shape of the plinth, aligned to lie exactly parallel to the tile edges, to transfer the holes to the back of the plinth). Countersink the front of the holes, mount the plinth to the wall, then mount the rack to the plinth. Option two: Consider using adhesive instead of screws. In fact, consider screwing the rack to a wooden plinth as above, but then using adhesive to fix the plinth to the tiles. You need to give the tiles a decent clean first, and use something like Sikaflex to stick it on. Option three (I think this is by far the best): Throw away the magnetic rack and store the knives where they belong: in a drawer. To persuade her of the wisdom of this, you could point out that in the drawer the knives will stay clean, whereas if out in the open 24/7, they will catch all the damp and grease you expect to be flying about in a kitchen, and in turn dust will stick to them, etc. The problem with sharp kitchen knives in a drawer, is that they blunt each other. Knife blocks made of wood are a hygiene problem. I would stick to the magnetic strip. The only time I get blunt kitchen knives is when my wife makes a sandwich and cuts it in two on a plate. How can I teacher her? Dave |
#21
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Only one chance to drill tile
Dave ) wibbled on Sunday 23 January 2011 17:12:
The problem with sharp kitchen knives in a drawer, is that they blunt each other. And chop your fingers off when you are rummaging around for other things. Knife blocks made of wood are a hygiene problem. In theory you *should* be putting clean knives in!!! I would stick to the magnetic strip. But fair enough - I quite like the idea - out of reach of kids and easy to grab one with gungy hands without contaminating the rest. The only time I get blunt kitchen knives is when my wife makes a sandwich and cuts it in two on a plate. How can I teacher her? Make her sharpen the knives. With nothing more than a pebble and a bowl of water. She'll learn... Dave -- Tim Watts |
#22
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Only one chance to drill tile
Dave wrote:
On 23/01/2011 11:36, Ronald Raygun wrote: Option three (I think this is by far the best): Throw away the magnetic rack and store the knives where they belong: in a drawer. To persuade her of the wisdom of this, you could point out that in the drawer the knives will stay clean, whereas if out in the open 24/7, they will catch all the damp and grease you expect to be flying about in a kitchen, and in turn dust will stick to them, etc. The problem with sharp kitchen knives in a drawer, is that they blunt each other. Really? Not something I've ever found, so I presume this must be because your standards of sharpness far exceed mine. I think I prefer my version of sharp, and frankly I reckon most people, professional cooks excepted, would be better off with knives which are only sharpish. The slight inconvenience of not being able to slice stuff effortlessly like the masterchefs on the telly is more than made up for by the accidental digital incisions being less often and less severe. Knife blocks made of wood are a hygiene problem. You're not meant to stick them back in until after they've been cleaned! I would stick to the magnetic strip. In that case let me suggest a compromise solution, and that is to screw the magnetic strip to the bottom of a drawer. Just need to make sure the drawers aren't tiled. The only time I get blunt kitchen knives is when my wife makes a sandwich and cuts it in two on a plate. How can I teacher her? There is no way. You can't reason with a wife. She is always right and you are always wrong. It's a lost cause trying to persuade her to use the blunt butter knife for halving sandwiches, or to leave sandwiches whole. You either have to accept that your knives are going to get blunt, or get a divorce. Or set aside some time every week for knife sharpening. Use an angle grider for that, of course. |
#23
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Only one chance to drill tile
On Jan 23, 2:22*pm, Tabby wrote:
On Jan 23, 10:51*am, "john *eastwood" wrote: Complete novice (and simpleton) needs to drill into two kitchen wall tiles to put up a magnetic knife rack. *The tiles are ancient, and if i crack them or drill out of level tiles could not be replaced with matching ones. It's also right near the sink where 'she who must be obeyed' will see it all day. If i mess up, i'm dead or worse. I've seen a workman drill into kitchen tiles and initially his drill goes 'all over the place' until it 'bites'. * He's probably had a lot of experience at this, i'm guessing that for me it would bite in the wrong place. Grateful for any tips on the 'safest' way for me to drill the tiles. Thanks. Definitely use masking tape. This wont stop wander but will reduce it usefully. Also use a tile bit, which is somewhat sharp, unlike masonry bits. The key point I find is to put the drill on max speed before the bit even touches the tile, if you dont do that it wanders. Use your hand on the drill to control the initial driling position. Once the hole's started it shouldnt wander. So now you've got just about all the methods offered, most of which contradict each other. NT I always start dead slow and don't have a problem with wander. I try to push the point of the dit into the glaze before i start drilling. some glaze is soft enough for that to work. Jonathan |
#24
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Only one chance to drill tile
"john eastwood" wrote in message ... Complete novice (and simpleton) needs to drill into two kitchen wall tiles to put up a magnetic knife rack. The tiles are ancient, and if i crack them or drill out of level tiles could not be replaced with matching ones. It's also right near the sink where 'she who must be obeyed' will see it all day. If i mess up, i'm dead or worse. I've seen a workman drill into kitchen tiles and initially his drill goes 'all over the place' until it 'bites'. He's probably had a lot of experience at this, i'm guessing that for me it would bite in the wrong place. Grateful for any tips on the 'safest' way for me to drill the tiles. Thanks. Just use a couple of tubes of Superglue - job done. |
#26
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Only one chance to drill tile
"Mr Pounder" wrote:
Just use a couple of tubes of Superglue - job done. Good advice - I suggest you take it and start by chewing the tubes thoroughly. |
#27
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Only one chance to drill tile
Ronald Raygun wrote:
[snip] Really? Not something I've ever found, so I presume this must be because your standards of sharpness far exceed mine. I think I prefer my version of sharp, and frankly I reckon most people, professional cooks excepted, would be better off with knives which are only sharpish. The slight inconvenience of not being able to slice stuff effortlessly like the masterchefs on the telly is more than made up for by the accidental digital incisions being less often and less severe. That's a myth. Sharp knives are safer than semi-sharp knives that need greater pressure to cut. A sharp knife is controllable and cuts cleanly without undue pressure. What you describe needs more pressure and of you slip the extra force needed will ensure deep wounds. I've never understood this fear of sharp knives. |
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Only one chance to drill tile
On 23/01/2011 11:51 p.m., john eastwood wrote:
Complete novice (and simpleton) needs to drill into two kitchen wall tiles to put up a magnetic knife rack. The tiles are ancient, and if i crack them or drill out of level tiles could not be replaced with matching ones. It's also right near the sink where 'she who must be obeyed' will see it all day. If i mess up, i'm dead or worse. I've seen a workman drill into kitchen tiles and initially his drill goes 'all over the place' until it 'bites'. He's probably had a lot of experience at this, i'm guessing that for me it would bite in the wrong place. Grateful for any tips on the 'safest' way for me to drill the tiles. Thanks. Use glue. |
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Only one chance to drill tile
On 23/01/2011 17:30, Tim Watts wrote:
Dave ) wibbled on Sunday 23 January 2011 17:12: The problem with sharp kitchen knives in a drawer, is that they blunt each other. And chop your fingers off when you are rummaging around for other things. Knife blocks made of wood are a hygiene problem. In theory you *should* be putting clean knives in!!! That might be the case, but dross from the kitchen can drop down into the slots and soil them. I haven't worked out a way to keep them clean yet. It would be a good idea if they could split apart and be washed easily I would stick to the magnetic strip. But fair enough - I quite like the idea - out of reach of kids and easy to grab one with gungy hands without contaminating the rest. The only time I get blunt kitchen knives is when my wife makes a sandwich and cuts it in two on a plate. How can I teacher her? Make her sharpen the knives. With nothing more than a pebble and a bowl of water. She'll learn... Even if I tried that, ten years on she would still be using very blunt knives and you know how many injuries a blunt knife can make :-( Dave |
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Only one chance to drill tile
On 23/01/2011 17:53, Mr Pounder wrote:
"john wrote in message ... Complete novice (and simpleton) needs to drill into two kitchen wall tiles to put up a magnetic knife rack. The tiles are ancient, and if i crack them or drill out of level tiles could not be replaced with matching ones. It's also right near the sink where 'she who must be obeyed' will see it all day. If i mess up, i'm dead or worse. I've seen a workman drill into kitchen tiles and initially his drill goes 'all over the place' until it 'bites'. He's probably had a lot of experience at this, i'm guessing that for me it would bite in the wrong place. Grateful for any tips on the 'safest' way for me to drill the tiles. Thanks. Just use a couple of tubes of Superglue - job done. I find superglue a bit too brittle for this type of job. When I glued mine to the wall, I used RTV 732. It is a silicone adhesive/filler but sticks like the proverbial to a blanket. Dave |
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Only one chance to drill tile
Dave wrote:
On 23/01/2011 17:30, Tim Watts wrote: Dave ) wibbled on Sunday 23 January 2011 17:12: The problem with sharp kitchen knives in a drawer, is that they blunt each other. And chop your fingers off when you are rummaging around for other things. Knife blocks made of wood are a hygiene problem. In theory you *should* be putting clean knives in!!! That might be the case, but dross from the kitchen can drop down into the slots and soil them. I haven't worked out a way to keep them clean yet. It would be a good idea if they could split apart and be washed easily I would stick to the magnetic strip. But fair enough - I quite like the idea - out of reach of kids and easy to grab one with gungy hands without contaminating the rest. The only time I get blunt kitchen knives is when my wife makes a sandwich and cuts it in two on a plate. How can I teacher her? Make her sharpen the knives. With nothing more than a pebble and a bowl of water. She'll learn... Even if I tried that, ten years on she would still be using very blunt knives and you know how many injuries a blunt knife can make :-( I suppose after 10 years of marriage you stop sticking pointy objects into your wife. -- Adam |
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#33
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Only one chance to drill tile
john eastwood wrote:
Complete novice (and simpleton) needs to drill into two kitchen wall tiles to put up a magnetic knife rack. The tiles are ancient, and if i crack them or drill out of level tiles could not be replaced with matching ones. It's also right near the sink where 'she who must be obeyed' will see it all day. If i mess up, i'm dead or worse. I've seen a workman drill into kitchen tiles and initially his drill goes 'all over the place' until it 'bites'. He's probably had a lot of experience at this, i'm guessing that for me it would bite in the wrong place. Grateful for any tips on the 'safest' way for me to drill the tiles. Thanks. score a tiddly cross with a diamond tipped tool, and use a diamond tipped drill at low pressure and SLOW speed. Or if you use one of the mini diamond *core* drills, put masking tape over the tile, mark that, and then start very carefully lining up on e.g. a biro drawn cross. |
#34
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Only one chance to drill tile
The Medway Handyman wrote:
On 23/01/2011 10:51, john eastwood wrote: Complete novice (and simpleton) needs to drill into two kitchen wall tiles to put up a magnetic knife rack. The tiles are ancient, and if i crack them or drill out of level tiles could not be replaced with matching ones. It's also right near the sink where 'she who must be obeyed' will see it all day. If i mess up, i'm dead or worse. I've seen a workman drill into kitchen tiles and initially his drill goes 'all over the place' until it 'bites'. He's probably had a lot of experience at this, i'm guessing that for me it would bite in the wrong place. Grateful for any tips on the 'safest' way for me to drill the tiles. Thanks. Get a Bosch Multi Material drill bit kike this:- http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Powe.../sd1350/p96753 You also need a drill with good speed control. These multi material drills have a very sharp point, unlike a normal masonry bit. Position it, push hard & you will hear & feel the bit penetrate the glaze on the tile. Now it won't wander about. Now start the drill on low speed, no hammer, and slowly drill through the tile. Once through the tile speed up & use hammer action if required. Use wall plugs 'without' a lip like these:- http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Scre.../sd2060/p51158 Make sure the plug goes behind the tile, the end can expand as the screw goes in & crack the tile. I've drilled through *quartzite* without hammer.. hammer=total recipe for tile crack. Sharp, hard and slow, as the actress said to the bishop. And no overheating. Slop water on if using steel or tungsten. And maybe when using diamond as well. |
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Only one chance to drill tile
Lobster wrote:
On 23/01/2011 11:00, Gordon Henderson wrote: In , john wrote: Complete novice (and simpleton) needs to drill into two kitchen wall tiles to put up a magnetic knife rack. The tiles are ancient, and if i crack them or drill out of level tiles could not be replaced with matching ones. It's also right near the sink where 'she who must be obeyed' will see it all day. If i mess up, i'm dead or worse. I've seen a workman drill into kitchen tiles and initially his drill goes 'all over the place' until it 'bites'. He's probably had a lot of experience at this, i'm guessing that for me it would bite in the wrong place. Stick a piece of insulating or masking tape on the tile where you're drilling; that will stop it wandering. May need a couple of layers to make it thicker. Grateful for any tips on the 'safest' way for me to drill the tiles. Thanks. Get a proper tile drill. Parallel shank with a trangle shaped tip with a sharp point. Go slow and use that to go through the glaze and most of the tile, then see what lies beyond - you might then need a conventional masonry drill. I used to use an expensive tile drill bit until someone (here I think?) years ago told me that standard masonry bits work fine. That's what I've used ever since - and have never broken a tile by drilling it. I find the better custom bits wander less. Like my diamond core drill best. Slow but excellent finish The only time I *did* once come to grief is by not drilling a hole large enough, so once the wall plug was inserted and the screw tightened... CRACK! Be warned BTDTGTTS David |
#36
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Only one chance to drill tile
Ronald Raygun wrote:
john eastwood wrote: Complete novice (and simpleton) needs to drill into two kitchen wall tiles to put up a magnetic knife rack. The tiles are ancient, and if i crack them or drill out of level tiles could not be replaced with matching ones. It's also right near the sink where 'she who must be obeyed' will see it all day. If i mess up, i'm dead or worse. I've seen a workman drill into kitchen tiles and initially his drill goes 'all over the place' until it 'bites'. He's probably had a lot of experience at this, i'm guessing that for me it would bite in the wrong place. Grateful for any tips on the 'safest' way for me to drill the tiles. Thanks. It would be a nightmare even for a professional to drill two holes in exactly the right relative positions. Golly./ I must be a real pro then Plastic plugs easily take up a mm or two. If you cant drill better than that, get a man in. |
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Only one chance to drill tile
Tim Watts wrote:
Gordon Henderson ) wibbled on Sunday 23 January 2011 11:00: In article , john eastwood wrote: Complete novice (and simpleton) needs to drill into two kitchen wall tiles to put up a magnetic knife rack. The tiles are ancient, and if i crack them or drill out of level tiles could not be replaced with matching ones. It's also right near the sink where 'she who must be obeyed' will see it all day. If i mess up, i'm dead or worse. If she whines, tell her to do it herself! I've seen a workman drill into kitchen tiles and initially his drill goes 'all over the place' until it 'bites'. He's probably had a lot of experience at this, i'm guessing that for me it would bite in the wrong place. Grateful for any tips on the 'safest' way for me to drill the tiles. Thanks. Get a proper tile drill. Parallel shank with a trangle shaped tip with a sharp point. Go slow and use that to go through the glaze and most of the tile, then see what lies beyond - you might then need a conventional masonry drill. Gordon +1 Yep - I have had quite a few "one chance" holes to do. Take the tile drill, press it gently into the glaze until you get the faintest of "crunchy" noises - that's the tip biting the glaze. Now it should not wander. Start the drill on slow with the lowest of pressures and allow the drill to grind its way in. Do not use hammer obviously. Go as far into the plaster as possible so the hole in the tile has parallel edges. Now you can go through with a masonry drill to deal with the brick if any. If it's just a plasterboard wall or celcon "cheeseblock" the tile drill will manage. Also, it is best IME to use a rawlplug that does not expand at the top - or one that can be pushed past the tile (ie a plug that does not have a top lip). You do not want the screw (more so with big screws) to expand and crack the tile. Probably won't be an issue for the little screws the knife rack needs, but worth remembering for bigger jobs. One further thing - if the screws can be put in a grout line, it reduces the risk to the tiles, but also if the rack is removed and the holes grouted over, the repair is nearly invisible. Cheers Tim At last, someone else who has actually DONE it. +1 |
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Only one chance to drill tile
Skipweasel wrote:
In article , ldomain says... and frankly I reckon most people, professional cooks excepted, would be better off with knives which are only sharpish. Sod that. I like my favourite knife to slice freely through everything except the chopping board. I now have rusty carbon steel knives and a diamond encrusted steel. She can use the fancy blunt stainless all she likes. |
#39
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Only one chance to drill tile
"john eastwood" wrote in message ... Complete novice (and simpleton) needs to drill into two kitchen wall tiles to put up a magnetic knife rack. The tiles are ancient, and if i crack them or drill out of level tiles could not be replaced with matching ones. It's also right near the sink where 'she who must be obeyed' will see it all day. If i mess up, i'm dead or worse. I've seen a workman drill into kitchen tiles and initially his drill goes 'all over the place' until it 'bites'. He's probably had a lot of experience at this, i'm guessing that for me it would bite in the wrong place. Grateful for any tips on the 'safest' way for me to drill the tiles. Thanks. -------- I've drilled through wall tiles a number of times to fix things and find the easiest way is to use the pointed tip of a standard tile cutter (not the wheeled type) and just work it into the tile to create a noticeable mark using a screwing motion (twist to the right then back again!). Then I use a standard masonry drill to drill the hole using the mark as the starting point - never had a failure yet and is very accurate. John M |
#40
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Only one chance to drill tile
In message , Ronald Raygun
writes Dave wrote: On 23/01/2011 11:36, Ronald Raygun wrote: Option three (I think this is by far the best): Throw away the magnetic rack and store the knives where they belong: in a drawer. To persuade her of the wisdom of this, you could point out that in the drawer the knives will stay clean, whereas if out in the open 24/7, they will catch all the damp and grease you expect to be flying about in a kitchen, and in turn dust will stick to them, etc. The problem with sharp kitchen knives in a drawer, is that they blunt each other. Really? Not something I've ever found, so I presume this must be because your standards of sharpness far exceed mine. IME, lots people seem to have standards of sharpness rather below mine I think I prefer my version of sharp, and frankly I reckon most people, professional cooks excepted, would be better off with knives which are only sharpish. The slight inconvenience of not being able to slice stuff effortlessly like the masterchefs on the telly is more than made up for by the accidental digital incisions being less often and less severe. Most cuts I've received have been using not as sharp as they could be knives, which IME experience are more likely to slip etc, rather than cut cleanly. The only cut our kids have received from knives (both using knives from about 3 to help prepare food) has been with someone elses not very sharp knife Knife blocks made of wood are a hygiene problem. You're not meant to stick them back in until after they've been cleaned! I would stick to the magnetic strip. In that case let me suggest a compromise solution, and that is to screw the magnetic strip to the bottom of a drawer. Just need to make sure the drawers aren't tiled. So waste a whole draw on a few knives. I much prefer knives on the wall in magnetic rack, easy to identify the knives and choose the right one, out of the way, but to hand, not cluttering up the work top etc. They don't get dirty or greasy as most gets used everyday -- Chris French |
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