[Mike Buckley]

Following the advice of a couple of weeks ago, the garage ceiling has
been plasterboarded, a integrated loft hatch/ladder[1] installed for
access to the roof space, lighting done and I'm now sealing the concrete
floor.

I'm planning on battening the wall, insulating and plasterboarding - how
low to the floor should the battens go if I was leaving the floor sealed
and not adding anything else like tiles etc? Leave a gap or doesn't it
matter?

And...

I fancy doing something with the floor - I like the look of some of the
tiles but they cost an arm and a leg, it's about 36m2. The floor needs
to bear heavy weights (motorbikes for now but possibly car as well) and
there can't be too much of a ramp from the drive as I need to be able to
push the bikes in (backwards usually) and I'm a bit of a wimp. Ideas?

Still not really planned how far I'm going with this, I'll certainly
plasterboard the walls and have it all plastered, if I can get a nice
tile effect floor that would be great. After that I suppose I could put
all the garagey stuff in the roof, the garden stuff will go into outdoor
storage and that leaves me a pretty good space for a sort of games room.

It's all been relatively cheap so far and doing the ceiling has had a
marked positive affect on lighting effectiveness and perception of the
garage space.

[1] Has anybody bought and fitted one of these from Wickes/B&Q? - the
instructions on how/where to fit the springs are missing. Works ok
without but...

--
Mike Buckley
RD350LC2
XJ900S

[Jim K[_3_]]

On 9 Oct, 17:44, Mike Buckley wrote:
Following the advice of a couple of weeks ago, the garage ceiling has
been plasterboarded, a integrated loft hatch/ladder[1] installed for
access to the roof space, lighting done and I'm now sealing the concrete
floor.

I'm planning on battening the wall, insulating and plasterboarding - how
low to the floor should the battens go if I was leaving the floor sealed
and not adding anything else like tiles etc?

just dot and dab (plus two fixings at head height) insulated
plasterboards - in one swoop - dead straight forward.

Leave a gap or doesn't it
matter?

Gap to stop your pboards/plaster soaking up damp or spills
could put painted skirts to cover it if you like?

I fancy doing something with the floor - I like the look of some of the
tiles but they cost an arm and a leg, it's about 36m2. The floor needs
to bear heavy weights (motorbikes for now but possibly car as well) and
there can't be too much of a ramp from the drive as I need to be able to
push the bikes in (backwards usually) and I'm a bit of a wimp. Ideas?

winch? ;)

Jim K

[Mike Buckley]

In message
, Jim
K writes
On 9 Oct, 17:44, Mike Buckley wrote:
Following the advice of a couple of weeks ago, the garage ceiling has
been plasterboarded, a integrated loft hatch/ladder[1] installed for
access to the roof space, lighting done and I'm now sealing the concrete
floor.

I'm planning on battening the wall, insulating and plasterboarding - how
low to the floor should the battens go if I was leaving the floor sealed
and not adding anything else like tiles etc?

just dot and dab (plus two fixings at head height) insulated
plasterboards - in one swoop - dead straight forward.

It's a single skin wall, won't any damp cause problems with the
adhesive?


--
Mike Buckley
RD350LC2
XJ900S

[Jim K[_3_]]

On 9 Oct, 19:16, Mike Buckley wrote:
In message
, Jim
K writes

On 9 Oct, 17:44, Mike Buckley wrote:
Following the advice of a couple of weeks ago, the garage ceiling has
been plasterboarded, a integrated loft hatch/ladder[1] installed for
access to the roof space, lighting done and I'm now sealing the concrete
floor.

I'm planning on battening the wall, insulating and plasterboarding - how
low to the floor should the battens go if I was leaving the floor sealed
and not adding anything else like tiles etc?

just dot and dab (plus two fixings at head height) insulated
plasterboards - in one swoop - dead straight forward.

It's a single skin wall, won't any damp cause problems with the
adhesive?

mmm not sure :)

tho the fixings alone will hold it - put more fixings in say 6 per 8X4
and forget the adhesive then?

(same as your battening really without the wood and the multiple
stages, measuring, cutting faffing etc)

Jim K

[Mike Buckley]

In message
, Jim
K writes
On 9 Oct, 19:16, Mike Buckley wrote:
In message
, Jim
K writes

On 9 Oct, 17:44, Mike Buckley wrote:
Following the advice of a couple of weeks ago, the garage ceiling has
been plasterboarded, a integrated loft hatch/ladder[1] installed for
access to the roof space, lighting done and I'm now sealing the concrete
floor.

I'm planning on battening the wall, insulating and plasterboarding - how
low to the floor should the battens go if I was leaving the floor sealed
and not adding anything else like tiles etc?

just dot and dab (plus two fixings at head height) insulated
plasterboards - in one swoop - dead straight forward.

It's a single skin wall, won't any damp cause problems with the
adhesive?

mmm not sure :)

tho the fixings alone will hold it - put more fixings in say 6 per 8X4
and forget the adhesive then?

(same as your battening really without the wood and the multiple
stages, measuring, cutting faffing etc)

Jim K

Well it would save the faff with the wood, so it is appealing. Could be
the way to go.

Anyway, anybody got ideas on flooring?

--
Mike Buckley
RD350LC2
XJ900S

[Jim K[_3_]]

On 9 Oct, 20:51, Mike Buckley wrote:
In message
, Jim
K writes



On 9 Oct, 19:16, Mike Buckley wrote:
In message
, Jim
K writes

On 9 Oct, 17:44, Mike Buckley wrote:
Following the advice of a couple of weeks ago, the garage ceiling has
been plasterboarded, a integrated loft hatch/ladder[1] installed for
access to the roof space, lighting done and I'm now sealing the concrete
floor.

I'm planning on battening the wall, insulating and plasterboarding - how
low to the floor should the battens go if I was leaving the floor sealed
and not adding anything else like tiles etc?

just dot and dab (plus two fixings at head height) insulated
plasterboards - in one swoop - dead straight forward.

It's a single skin wall, won't any damp cause problems with the
adhesive?

mmm not sure :)

tho the fixings alone will hold it - put more fixings in say 6 per 8X4
and forget the adhesive then?

(same as your battening really without the wood and the multiple
stages, measuring, cutting faffing etc)

Jim K

Well it would save the faff with the wood, so it is appealing. Could be
the way to go.

I forgot that there's also the relatively new "low expansion
polyurethane" method of gluing em up... so limiting damp penetration
along multiple fixings (before anyone pops up with that aspect on
single skin wall ;)

Just paint the floor with 2 pack red gloss?

Jim K

[Mike Buckley]

In message
, Jim
K writes
On 9 Oct, 20:51, Mike Buckley wrote:
In message
, Jim
K writes



On 9 Oct, 19:16, Mike Buckley wrote:
In message
, Jim
K writes

On 9 Oct, 17:44, Mike Buckley wrote:
Following the advice of a couple of weeks ago, the garage ceiling has
been plasterboarded, a integrated loft hatch/ladder[1] installed for
access to the roof space, lighting done and I'm now sealing the
concrete
floor.

I'm planning on battening the wall, insulating and
plasterboarding - how
low to the floor should the battens go if I was leaving the
floor sealed
and not adding anything else like tiles etc?

just dot and dab (plus two fixings at head height) insulated
plasterboards - in one swoop - dead straight forward.

It's a single skin wall, won't any damp cause problems with the
adhesive?

mmm not sure :)

tho the fixings alone will hold it - put more fixings in say 6 per 8X4
and forget the adhesive then?

(same as your battening really without the wood and the multiple
stages, measuring, cutting faffing etc)

Jim K

Well it would save the faff with the wood, so it is appealing. Could be
the way to go.

I forgot that there's also the relatively new "low expansion
polyurethane" method of gluing em up... so limiting damp penetration
along multiple fixings (before anyone pops up with that aspect on
single skin wall ;)

Just paint the floor with 2 pack red gloss?

Jim K

Painting the floor is not an option. Done it before, not a great fan of
it.

Ideally I'd like:

http://www.dynotile.co.uk/


--
Mike Buckley
RD350LC2
XJ900S

[Jim K[_3_]]

On 9 Oct, 21:34, Mike Buckley wrote:
In message
, Jim
K writes



On 9 Oct, 20:51, Mike Buckley wrote:
In message
, Jim
K writes

On 9 Oct, 19:16, Mike Buckley wrote:
In message
, Jim
K writes

On 9 Oct, 17:44, Mike Buckley wrote:
Following the advice of a couple of weeks ago, the garage ceiling has
been plasterboarded, a integrated loft hatch/ladder[1] installed for
access to the roof space, lighting done and I'm now sealing the
concrete
floor.

I'm planning on battening the wall, insulating and
plasterboarding - how
low to the floor should the battens go if I was leaving the
floor sealed
and not adding anything else like tiles etc?

just dot and dab (plus two fixings at head height) insulated
plasterboards - in one swoop - dead straight forward.

It's a single skin wall, won't any damp cause problems with the
adhesive?

mmm not sure :)

tho the fixings alone will hold it - put more fixings in say 6 per 8X4
and forget the adhesive then?

(same as your battening really without the wood and the multiple
stages, measuring, cutting faffing etc)

Jim K

Well it would save the faff with the wood, so it is appealing. Could be
the way to go.

I forgot that there's also the relatively new "low expansion
polyurethane" method of gluing em up... so limiting damp penetration
along multiple fixings (before anyone pops up with that aspect on
single skin wall ;)

Just paint the floor with 2 pack red gloss?

Jim K

Painting the floor is not an option. Done it before,

yebbut what with?

not a great fan of
it.

yebbut why?

Ideally I'd like:

http://www.dynotile.co.uk/

sounds pricey

Jim K

[js.b1]

I happen to have just skimmed over plasterboard with scrim-tape, over
foil-taped celotex, over tannalised 2x1 battens on plastic spacers to
level the wall to 1/16", with expanding foam under the battens, with
celotex inbetween the battens, with PU sealant to seal edges of
celotex against battens.

I can say I would never do it again and would pick a 1-step solution.

#1 - Use insulation bonded to plasterboard, I recall Jewsons & Travis
Perkins keep 1" and 2" in stock.

#2 - Then use hammer-fix or frame-fix, or Fischer / Rawlplug / Etc
"Insulation Supports" - a plastic peg you tap in with a hammer through
the insulation to hold it to the wall. Rawlplug are polypropylene,
some on Ebay cheap and Screwfix do them also. Fischer are nylon and
normally expensive, some on Ebay in packs of 50 cheap.

Dot-n-dab is not advisable for single leaf, or even known damp solid
double leaf, by the board makers because of the risk of failure (arse
covering). If you do use dot-n-dab it needs to be done properly re
continuous fillets at all openings and particularly top & bottom and
again above any DPC you span. The gap off the floor is re floor damp
or spillage which would otherwise require a lot more "room rework".

On the other wall I happened to have Marmox left over and the wall is
solid brick with prevailing wind, so that got Primer-G, Keraflex
completely & Marmox stuck on. Expensive way of doing it, but it used
up odds-n-sods from 40mm to 20mm and got it perfectly level (wall was
more ****ed than the person who did it). Vastly faster.

The insta-stik foam stuff is gun only and requires a) a gun oddly
enough and b) cleaner used pretty quick, the reviews indicate it goes
off pretty quick in the can but it does work. Expanding foam I suspect
would be a messy nightmare and does keep on expanding for quite a lot
longer than you realise.

[Devany[_2_]]

On 09/10/2010 17:44, Mike Buckley wrote:
Following the advice of a couple of weeks ago, the garage ceiling has
been plasterboarded, a integrated loft hatch/ladder[1] installed for
access to the roof space, lighting done and I'm now sealing the concrete
floor.

I'm planning on battening the wall, insulating and plasterboarding - how
low to the floor should the battens go if I was leaving the floor sealed
and not adding anything else like tiles etc? Leave a gap or doesn't it
matter?

And...

I fancy doing something with the floor - I like the look of some of the
tiles but they cost an arm and a leg, it's about 36m2. The floor needs
to bear heavy weights (motorbikes for now but possibly car as well) and
there can't be too much of a ramp from the drive as I need to be able to
push the bikes in (backwards usually) and I'm a bit of a wimp. Ideas?

snip

I used this stuff:

http://www.dynotile.co.uk/

on my garage floor a few years ago. Has lasted well and I park two cars
on it.

Not cheap though, and you need to allow for expansion if it gets hot
(i.e. in direct sunlight).

[Mike Buckley]

In message
, Jim
K writes
On 9 Oct, 21:34, Mike Buckley wrote:
In message
, Jim
K writes



On 9 Oct, 20:51, Mike Buckley wrote:
In message
, Jim
K writes

On 9 Oct, 19:16, Mike Buckley wrote:
In message

, Jim
K writes

On 9 Oct, 17:44, Mike Buckley wrote:
Following the advice of a couple of weeks ago, the garage
ceiling has
been plasterboarded, a integrated loft hatch/ladder[1] installed for
access to the roof space, lighting done and I'm now sealing the
concrete
floor.

I'm planning on battening the wall, insulating and
plasterboarding - how
low to the floor should the battens go if I was leaving the
floor sealed
and not adding anything else like tiles etc?

just dot and dab (plus two fixings at head height) insulated
plasterboards - in one swoop - dead straight forward.

It's a single skin wall, won't any damp cause problems with the
adhesive?

mmm not sure :)

tho the fixings alone will hold it - put more fixings in say 6 per 8X4
and forget the adhesive then?

(same as your battening really without the wood and the multiple
stages, measuring, cutting faffing etc)

Jim K

Well it would save the faff with the wood, so it is appealing. Could be
the way to go.

I forgot that there's also the relatively new "low expansion
polyurethane" method of gluing em up... so limiting damp penetration
along multiple fixings (before anyone pops up with that aspect on
single skin wall ;)

Just paint the floor with 2 pack red gloss?

Jim K

Painting the floor is not an option. Done it before,

yebbut what with?
Floor paint

not a great fan of
it.

yebbut why?
Limited colours, crap finish, needs doing every few years.


--
Mike Buckley
RD350LC2
XJ900S

[TheScullster]

"Mike Buckley" wrote
snip............


I fancy doing something with the floor - I like the look of some of the
tiles but they cost an arm and a leg, it's about 36m2. The floor needs to
bear heavy weights (motorbikes for now but possibly car as well) and there
can't be too much of a ramp from the drive as I need to be able to push
the bikes in (backwards usually) and I'm a bit of a wimp. Ideas?


Nothing positive, but I'd be wary of laying a floor with high slipperiness
factor if you are going to push m-bikes around on it (possibly with wet
tyres).

Phil