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#1
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Treating rusty steel.
I have some car bits which are rusty and no longer available new.
Secondhand parts are likely no better. They aren't structural - they just hold the rubber seal to the sunroof. Don't even show. Too complicated a pressing to make new - or at least for me. I cleaned some down to bare metal, treated with Jenolite, sprayed on zinc rich primer and finished with chassis black. Some three years later they're rusty again. I've obtained some better ones but would like to protect them in the best way possible. Any sort of plating worth doing? Especially a home kit? Or any other tips? -- *If work is so terrific, how come they have to pay you to do it? Dave Plowman London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound. |
#2
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Treating rusty steel.
On Sat, 21 Nov 2009 23:11:40 +0000 (GMT), "Dave Plowman (News)"
wrote: I have some car bits which are rusty and no longer available new. Secondhand parts are likely no better. They aren't structural - they just hold the rubber seal to the sunroof. Don't even show. Too complicated a pressing to make new - or at least for me. I cleaned some down to bare metal, treated with Jenolite, sprayed on zinc rich primer and finished with chassis black. Some three years later they're rusty again. I've obtained some better ones but would like to protect them in the best way possible. Any sort of plating worth doing? Especially a home kit? Or any other tips? Easy to copper plate the things. A handful of copper sulphate and a couple of AA batteries would do. (Unless copper sulphate is considered useful for terrorism) Problem would be cleaning the things to plate. |
#3
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Treating rusty steel.
On 22 Nov, 01:15, wrote:
Easy to copper plate the things. Easy yes, but it will also _encourage_ corrosion. You're using an acid process (it doesn't work without a splash of conc sulphuric acid in there too) and this will lead to sub-plating pitting developing, eventually breaking through. If you want to copper plate, your easiest approach is often to nickel plate it first. Try reading the Caswell book for advice. Avoid Jenolite, as it's too dilute and although it cleans rust, it also corrodes the steel. Either use glacial phosphoric (hydroponics shop) or even better, a proprietary deruster with tannins added (usually opaque white, not clear or pink). Mostly though, I'd look askance at the quality of your zinc rich primer. Try Davids 182 for a good one. |
#4
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Treating rusty steel.
In message , "Dave Plowman (News)"
writes I have some car bits which are rusty and no longer available new. Secondhand parts are likely no better. They aren't structural - they just hold the rubber seal to the sunroof. Don't even show. Too complicated a pressing to make new - or at least for me. I cleaned some down to bare metal, treated with Jenolite, sprayed on zinc rich primer and finished with chassis black. Some three years later they're rusty again. I've obtained some better ones but would like to protect them in the best way possible. Any sort of plating worth doing? Especially a home kit? Or any other tips? Chuck them up to me, I'll stick them in with my metalwork for plating -- geoff |
#5
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Treating rusty steel.
In article ,
Huge wrote: POR15 Just Googled on this and Rustbullet claim to better it. ;-) That's the problem with this sort of thing. -- *The first rule of holes: If you are in one, stop digging! Dave Plowman London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound. |
#6
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Treating rusty steel.
In article
, Andy Dingley wrote: Avoid Jenolite, as it's too dilute and although it cleans rust, it also corrodes the steel. Either use glacial phosphoric (hydroponics shop) or even better, a proprietary deruster with tannins added (usually opaque white, not clear or pink). That's fine but asking in a shop for a 'proprietary deruster' would likely get you something like Jenolite. ;-) Any brand names? Mostly though, I'd look askance at the quality of your zinc rich primer. Try Davids 182 for a good one. Can't remember what I used. -- *Your kid may be an honours student, but you're still an idiot. Dave Plowman London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound. |
#7
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Treating rusty steel.
Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
I have some car bits which are rusty and no longer available new. Secondhand parts are likely no better. They aren't structural - they just hold the rubber seal to the sunroof. Don't even show. Too complicated a pressing to make new - or at least for me. I cleaned some down to bare metal, treated with Jenolite, sprayed on zinc rich primer and finished with chassis black. Some three years later they're rusty again. I've obtained some better ones but would like to protect them in the best way possible. Any sort of plating worth doing? Especially a home kit? Or any other tips? Loctite do a product that apparently converts rust to something black, never used it, heard its good though. http://www.loctiteproducts.com/produ...id=47&plid=168 -- Dave - The Medway Handyman www.medwayhandyman.co.uk |
#8
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Treating rusty steel.
On 22 Nov, 10:27, "Dave Plowman (News)" wrote:
That's fine but asking in a shop for a 'proprietary deruster' would likely get you something like Jenolite. ;-) Any brand names? If you ask at a sensible shop like County Industrial in Cwmbran, the price of a thimbleful of Jenolite buys you a gallon can of something white label made by the Ephraim Hardcastle "Victoria" works in Cleckheaton, as they've done for the last 100 years. It looks like milk, it turns rust black and it's cheap enough to dip a Landrover in it. In Halfrauds, I think it's by Loctite in little blue bottles. Still white. |
#9
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Treating rusty steel.
On Sun, 22 Nov 2009 11:10:22 GMT, "The Medway Handyman"
wrote: Dave Plowman (News) wrote: I have some car bits which are rusty and no longer available new. Secondhand parts are likely no better. They aren't structural - they just hold the rubber seal to the sunroof. Don't even show. Too complicated a pressing to make new - or at least for me. I cleaned some down to bare metal, treated with Jenolite, sprayed on zinc rich primer and finished with chassis black. Some three years later they're rusty again. I've obtained some better ones but would like to protect them in the best way possible. Any sort of plating worth doing? Especially a home kit? Or any other tips? Loctite do a product that apparently converts rust to something black, never used it, heard its good though. http://www.loctiteproducts.com/produ...id=47&plid=168 Sounds exactly like Kurust. |
#10
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Treating rusty steel.
We were somewhere around Barstow, on the edge of the desert, when the
drugs began to take hold. I remember "The Medway Handyman" saying something like: Loctite do a product that apparently converts rust to something black, never used it, heard its good though. http://www.loctiteproducts.com/produ...id=47&plid=168 Probably phosphoric acid. Dirt cheap to buy the raw stuff. |
#11
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Treating rusty steel.
On Sat, 21 Nov 2009 23:11:40 +0000 (GMT), "Dave Plowman (News)"
wrote: I've obtained some better ones but would like to protect them in the best way possible. Any sort of plating worth doing? Especially a home kit? Or any other tips? Firstly get rid of all the rust. If the size permits the best way of doing this is electrolytic de-rusting as this does not effect the bare metal. http://www.remap-internet.org.uk/remapedia/tiki-index.php?page_ref_id=59 If the items still have some paint on you may need to wire brush the piece several times at intervals of about 12-24 hours in the derusting process to get rid of all the poorly adhering paint at the rust edges. After washing and drying you can use whatever undercoat you like followed by topcoat. As the electrolytic derusting gets rid of all traces of active rust the paint cover is much more effective than it would be on most chemically treated pieces where some rust nearly always remains and starts again after a few months (or less). |
#12
Posted to uk.d-i-y
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Treating rusty steel.
In message , The Medway
Handyman writes Dave Plowman (News) wrote: I have some car bits which are rusty and no longer available new. Secondhand parts are likely no better. They aren't structural - they just hold the rubber seal to the sunroof. Don't even show. Too complicated a pressing to make new - or at least for me. I cleaned some down to bare metal, treated with Jenolite, sprayed on zinc rich primer and finished with chassis black. Some three years later they're rusty again. I've obtained some better ones but would like to protect them in the best way possible. Any sort of plating worth doing? Especially a home kit? Or any other tips? Loctite do a product that apparently converts rust to something black, never used it, heard its good though. http://www.loctiteproducts.com/produ...id=47&plid=168 That's the phosphoric acid got 5l of it here lying around -- geoff |
#13
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Treating rusty steel.
On Sat, 21 Nov 2009 23:11:40 +0000 (GMT), Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
I cleaned some down to bare metal, treated with Jenolite, Is that something akin to Kurust? I've had good results with that stopping/converting corrsion. sprayed on zinc rich primer Obviously not that zinc rich or not in glavanic contact with the steel. Drygalv does the business here. Ground off head of a bolt used as a gate latch has not rusted. Similary shed bought washers bolts drop latches on the trailer that is outside 24/7 and has been for a few years. Admitedly they are also "zinc plated" but we all know how useless that is when outside 24/7... Drygalv has a couple of drawbacks: It is expensive (IIRC I paid about a tenner for a small 250ml? tin) and is rather soft as a paint but it does work. -- Cheers Dave. |
#14
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Treating rusty steel.
"Andy Dingley" wrote in message ... On 22 Nov, 01:15, wrote: Easy to copper plate the things. Easy yes, but it will also _encourage_ corrosion. If you want to copper plate, your easiest approach is often to nickel plate it first. Try reading the Caswell book for advice. Avoid Jenolite, agreed Mostly though, I'd look askance at the quality of your zinc rich primer. Try Davids 182 for a good one. I use Bondaprime, much favoured by the boating-fishing fraternity. This is a rusty _steel_ milk churn I painted with it some 20 years ago and its been outside ever since, never did get round to giving it a top coat. but a good test as to how good a primer is. http://i46.tinypic.com/2crt82t.jpg - |
#15
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Treating rusty steel.
On 22 Nov, 12:45, Grimly Curmudgeon
wrote: Loctite do a product that apparently converts rust to something black, never used it, heard its good though. http://www.loctiteproducts.com/produ...d=13&subid=47&... Probably phosphoric acid. ....and the rest. |
#16
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Treating rusty steel.
Get rid of rust...
- 3M Clean-n-Strip XT (purple) are great at getting a bright Sa2.5 finish with a cheap cordless drill - Combine use with Loctite white milky stuff (goes black) to get into pores to help neutralise what you can't get to Zinc protection... - Galvafroid - pure zinc so truly protects, £25 per tin that weighs like a neutron star, rubs off, requires blackfriars galvanising primer before painting - Dinitrol - Lower zinc so lesser protection, more abrasion resistance, easier to spray-prime & paint It comes down to how rusted and what final finish. Frost's Restoration do 3M clean-n-strip discs and etch sprays if just surface corrosion, then primer (fill in imperfections), paint, polishing compound and wax after a few weeks. Zinga (think that is right) is an improvement on Galvafroid, but the best is 2pk (or lesser 1pk) zinc epoxy primer at £30-55. Colleague used 1pk zinc epoxy primer on a windscreen surround that had been wrecked years earlier by an windscreen removal tool in the hands of an idiot main dealer. No rust progression (or leaks) after several years, he also saturated the underside of the windscreen trim with 3M 08509 non-setting black butyl goo in a cartridge for a belt-n-braces backup. |
#17
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Treating rusty steel.
"js.b1" gurgled happily, sounding much like they were
saying: Zinga (think that is right) is an improvement on Galvafroid I asked more-or-less the OP's exact question of a supplier of both Zinga & Galvafroid. Their answer as to which was best? In the context of used car suspension parts, cleaned up with power wire brush, they said... neither. Both of those require REALLY clean - freshly blasted - steel to give of their best. For this job, they recommended Rustoleum 769 primer. |
#18
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Treating rusty steel.
On Nov 22, 9:42*pm, Adrian wrote:
Both of those require REALLY clean - freshly blasted steel to give of their best. Indeed, freshly blasted is Sa2, bright mirror is Sa2.5. You can get Sa2.5 on lightly corroded auto steel with a 3M clean-n- strip. An example would be a scrape which has been neglected such that paint has domed and gone brittle in the surrounding area, underneath you will find dark millscale which the 3M Clean-n-Strip cleans out to leave bright shiny metal as a broad crater of limited depth. Then either zinc product works superbly at stopping corrosion dead - but are mechanically weak. You need galvanising primer, then normal car paint, but it is still a weak underlying area. For this job, they recommended Rustoleum 769 primer. Good and that tackles the weakness of pure zinc products (they are meant for freshly drilled or ground welds on RSJ, where you want the longest life but also where abrasion resistance is immaterial). You can buy miniature sand blasting kits; exactly like a paint air sprayer, plug in to a compressor, will blast small areas for auto repair etc. Add-ons for pressure washers also exist of course. |
#19
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Treating rusty steel.
In message
, js.b1 writes On Nov 22, 9:42*pm, Adrian wrote: Both of those require REALLY clean - freshly blasted steel to give of their best. Indeed, freshly blasted is Sa2, bright mirror is Sa2.5. Dave, you can always pop up and use my blast cabinet if you're so inclined -- geoff |
#20
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Treating rusty steel.
In article ,
geoff wrote: In message , js.b1 writes On Nov 22, 9:42 pm, Adrian wrote: Both of those require REALLY clean - freshly blasted steel to give of their best. Indeed, freshly blasted is Sa2, bright mirror is Sa2.5. Dave, you can always pop up and use my blast cabinet if you're so inclined That could be very helpful as there's no real rush. Is it sand or something more gentle? They are small enough to post. I've tried finding a local firm that can do this without success. I've heard of the domestic ones but I don't have a compressor or really anywhere to put one. The joys of living in central London. ;-) -- *Remember, no-one is listening until you fart.* Dave Plowman London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound. |
#21
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Treating rusty steel.
In message , "Dave Plowman (News)"
writes In article , geoff wrote: In message , js.b1 writes On Nov 22, 9:42 pm, Adrian wrote: Both of those require REALLY clean - freshly blasted steel to give of their best. Indeed, freshly blasted is Sa2, bright mirror is Sa2.5. Dave, you can always pop up and use my blast cabinet if you're so inclined That could be very helpful as there's no real rush. Is it sand or something more gentle? 150-250 micron glass beads is what I use They are small enough to post. I've tried finding a local firm that can do this without success. I've heard of the domestic ones but I don't have a compressor or really anywhere to put one. 200l reservoir built out of a kitchen sink and (here's your special interest) Bass speaker cabinet The joys of living in central London. ;-) 20 mins Euston to Watford by train -- geoff |
#22
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Treating rusty steel.
"js.b1" gurgled happily, sounding much like they were
saying: Both of those require REALLY clean - freshly blasted steel to give of their best. Indeed, freshly blasted is Sa2, bright mirror is Sa2.5. You can get Sa2.5 on lightly corroded auto steel with a 3M clean-n- strip. An example would be a scrape which has been neglected such that paint has domed and gone brittle in the surrounding area, underneath you will find dark millscale which the 3M Clean-n-Strip cleans out to leave bright shiny metal as a broad crater of limited depth. Then either zinc product works superbly at stopping corrosion dead - but are mechanically weak. You need galvanising primer, then normal car paint, but it is still a weak underlying area. For this job, they recommended Rustoleum 769 primer. Good and that tackles the weakness of pure zinc products (they are meant for freshly drilled or ground welds on RSJ, where you want the longest life but also where abrasion resistance is immaterial). You can buy miniature sand blasting kits; exactly like a paint air sprayer, plug in to a compressor, will blast small areas for auto repair etc. Add-ons for pressure washers also exist of course. Nice to get secondary confirmation... IYHO, should the Rustoleum be adequate as a one-coat finish on suspension etc? From what I've read, it appears to be, but... |
#23
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Treating rusty steel.
Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
I've obtained some better ones but would like to protect them in the best way possible. Any sort of plating worth doing? Especially a home kit? Or any other tips? For components that are exposed to spray or abrasion I'd recommend an epoxy coating. Just to throw yet another confusing option into the long list you already have, you understand. This is the sort of stuff that is used to rust-proof steel in marine environments and it has the benefit of chemical adhesion to the steel rather than a passive coating that can be rubbed off. http://www.rust.co.uk/epoxy-mastic.cfm |
#24
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Treating rusty steel.
In article ,
Steve Firth wrote: I've obtained some better ones but would like to protect them in the best way possible. Any sort of plating worth doing? Especially a home kit? Or any other tips? For components that are exposed to spray or abrasion I'd recommend an epoxy coating. Just to throw yet another confusing option into the long list you already have, you understand. This is the sort of stuff that is used to rust-proof steel in marine environments and it has the benefit of chemical adhesion to the steel rather than a passive coating that can be rubbed off. http://www.rust.co.uk/epoxy-mastic.cfm They're not exposed to anything like that. They are underneath a steel sunroof and clamp the rubber seal which goes round the outside to it via self tappers. You can't even see them, as that assembly fixes to the sliding carriage. So just a good old fashioned water trap. The factory obviously didn't realise there would be a problem as they have just one layer of paint - no primer of any sort. There are three of them, one to the front which survives well - it's the two side ones which rust badly. But that does look like a good solution. Pity it's only in such large quantities - 100mL would be more than enough. It'll cost 40 quid minimum including post. What it doesn't say is if it can be used as an undercoat for a normal car finish like the current water based paints. If so I could do the actual sunroof as well as they are rare as hens teeth too. I've asked them for this information via their website. -- *Constipated People Don't Give A Crap* Dave Plowman London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound. |
#25
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Treating rusty steel.
On 23 Nov, 08:49, (Steve Firth) wrote:
For components that are exposed to spray or abrasion I'd recommend an epoxy coating. Or "floor paint", as it's usefully obtained when refitting the workshop. PU, chlorinated rubber or even epoxy floor paints all make good extra-wear paints for parts expecting a hard life, although only chlorinated rubber will last on flexing suspension parts. |
#26
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Treating rusty steel.
js.b1 wrote:
You can buy miniature sand blasting kits; exactly like a paint air sprayer, plug in to a compressor, will blast small areas for auto repair etc. Add-ons for pressure washers also exist of course. But they use water as the propellant :-) -- Dave - The Medway Handyman www.medwayhandyman.co.uk |
#27
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Treating rusty steel.
In article ,
Dave Plowman (News) wrote: What it doesn't say is if it can be used as an undercoat for a normal car finish like the current water based paints. If so I could do the actual sunroof as well as they are rare as hens teeth too. I've asked them for this information via their website Got a prompt reply which is always encouraging. 'You can over paint Epoxy Mastic with most finishes, it is not a primer for body work. It is designed for use on the vehicle underside, footwells boot etc where a body finish is not required. Barrier coats are not required but the adhesion/etch primer supplied with your chosen top coat system should be used.' -- *Why is the man who invests all your money called a broker? Dave Plowman London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound. |
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