What's good for treating western red cedar?

I know it lasts well, but for the external surfaces I'd like to help it
along a bit. I'd prefer something that sinks in and leaves the surface
looking like wood, rather than paint or varnish.

The inner surfaces of the windowframes I want to leave as bare cedar for
the smell and the look.

--
Skipweasel
Pay no attention to that man behind the curtain.

Guy King wrote:
What's good for treating western red cedar?

Linseed oil.

On exterior hardwoods I've been using Sikkens HLS/Sikkens Filter 7.
It's an expensive product, but I've been very impressed with it. Not
one you'll find in the sheds, specialist suppliers or
http://www.decoratingdirect.co.uk/

On rough wooden surfaces they recommend 3 coats of Sikkens HLS, rather
than the HLS/Filter7 combination. HLS is very thin and penetrating -
quick and easy to apply.

I'm currently trying out their Novatech/Novatop products (a low VOC
alternative to their traditional products) - and whilst good, it's not
quite so easy to produce good finishes.

On Tue, 23 May 2006 09:28:50 +0100, Guy King
wrote:

What's good for treating western red cedar?

I know it lasts well, but for the external surfaces I'd like to help it
along a bit. I'd prefer something that sinks in and leaves the surface
looking like wood, rather than paint or varnish.

The inner surfaces of the windowframes I want to leave as bare cedar for
the smell and the look.

I'd apply a few coats of used chip frying oil. I know there are
fancier preparations but none of them have the same distinctive (and
short lived) aroma.
--
Regards,
Mike Halmarack

Drop the (EGG) to email me.

On 23 May 2006 02:20:03 -0700, " wrote:

On exterior hardwoods I've been using Sikkens HLS/Sikkens Filter 7.
It's an expensive product, but I've been very impressed with it. Not
one you'll find in the sheds, specialist suppliers or
http://www.decoratingdirect.co.uk/

On rough wooden surfaces they recommend 3 coats of Sikkens HLS, rather
than the HLS/Filter7 combination. HLS is very thin and penetrating -
quick and easy to apply.

Seconded. Worth having a look through the archives for some info:

http://groups.google.co.uk/group/uk.d-i-y/search?q=sikkens&start=0&scoring=d&

cheers,
Pete.

The message
from Pete C contains these words:

On rough wooden surfaces they recommend 3 coats of Sikkens HLS, rather
than the HLS/Filter7 combination. HLS is very thin and penetrating -
quick and easy to apply.

Seconded. Worth having a look through the archives for some info:

Sounds bood but it reckons it's semi-gloss - which I didn't really want.
I'm looking more for something like linseed oil - but wondered if there
were anything more effective that looks similar.

--
Skipweasel
Pay no attention to that man behind the curtain.

"Guy King" wrote in message
...
What's good for treating western red cedar?

I know it lasts well, but for the external surfaces I'd like to help it
along a bit. I'd prefer something that sinks in and leaves the surface
looking like wood, rather than paint or varnish.

The best (and most expensive) beehives are made with western red cedar. They
are not treated in ANY way. They are exposed to all weathers, rain, wind,
snow, sun (especially sun), ice, insects trying to attack them, woodpeckers,
large animals rubbing against them, mice nibbling them, beekeepers bashing
them with tools and all the rest.

I gave up beekeeping three years ago, I now use some of the boxes to grow
potatoes, which means that as well as the above they are filled with soil
and compost with its attendant damp (or wet) and wildlife.

Some of the boxes I'm using were bought second hand nearly thirty years ago,
I had bees in them for twenty five years. They are the western red cedar
ones. Those which Spouse made from other timbers have had to be repaired,
patched, burned even.

The exception was that I once painted a western red cedar hive with cuprinol
but the surface of the wood deteriorated, it became powdery and flaked off.
It's still fine because the stuff didn't penetrate deep into the timber but
it was a waste of time. This is a known phenomenon, I was warned about it
but thought I knew better.

Western red cedar doesn't need any treatment. It turns to a lovely
silvery-grey colour and looks beautiful. The only drawback is its cost.

Mary

The message
from "Mary Fisher" contains these words:

insects trying to attack them,

I just took back what was supposed to be the window sill on account of
it having woodworm!

--
Skipweasel
Pay no attention to that man behind the curtain.

"Guy King" wrote in message
...
The message
from "Mary Fisher" contains these words:

insects trying to attack them,

I just took back what was supposed to be the window sill on account of
it having woodworm!

In that case I doubt that it was genuine western red cedar!

There are rogues in the timber industry as well as in every other, I
suspect.

Mary

--
Skipweasel
Pay no attention to that man behind the curtain.

On Tue, 23 May 2006 21:44:36 +0100, Guy King
wrote:

The message
from Pete C contains these words:

On rough wooden surfaces they recommend 3 coats of Sikkens HLS, rather
than the HLS/Filter7 combination. HLS is very thin and penetrating -
quick and easy to apply.

Seconded. Worth having a look through the archives for some info:

Sounds bood but it reckons it's semi-gloss - which I didn't really want.

Depends on the surface, it only comes out semi-gloss on a smooth
planed surface. If the surface is a bit rough it should come out more
matt:

http://www.sikkens.co.uk/NR/rdonlyres/74BF2C37-6765-4D16-9047-08798CDB0CDF/0/CetolHLS_36_19757.pdf

AFAIK it weathers to a matt finish anyway. Might be worth giving them
a call to see what they say.

I'm looking more for something like linseed oil - but wondered if there
were anything more effective that looks similar.

AIUI all oils do very little to block UV and so don't stop weathering,
especially if exposed to the sun. A post on rec.woodworking might get
some good info.

cheers,
Pete.

The message
from "Mary Fisher" contains these words:

In that case I doubt that it was genuine western red cedar!

Certainly looked and smelt and felt like it.

--
Skipweasel
Pay no attention to that man behind the curtain.