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Leaking Washing Machine Drum



 
 
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  #1  
Old October 5th 03, 10:51 AM
Phil Young
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Default Leaking Washing Machine Drum

Quick version:

The drum of my washer/dryer is leaking around the aperture where the
heating element goes, due to some corrosion round the slot. I've
tired boss white, silicone sealant and doing it up really, really
tight to no good effect.

Is there anything else I should try ?


Longer version:

I've had an Ariston washer dryer for about 12 years. It's been
reliable apart from the heating elements which tend to last about 3-4
years (so I'm on my fourth at the moment). Luckily it's just some
generic one so I've been able to get them fairly cheaply from the
local washing-machine parts shop.

The element slots into an aperture at the lower rear of the (steel)
outer drum. It's fixed in place by tightening a screw which pulls up
a plate to compress a thick rubber seal which then expands to grip the
edge of the drum. Sorry if that's a bit long winded but it's one of
those difficult to describe things that is obvious when you see it in
front of you.

The problem is that the slot has corroded over the years so the rubber
grommet isn't sealing. I've been able to seal it previously with boss
white but this time it's no go. I've tried silcone sealant as well
with no better result.

Repairing the slot would be very difficult - I'd probably have to cut
out the whole area and weld in a larger patch with the original sized
hole cut in it. This isn't really feasible, the slot is down at the
very edge of the drum and any patch would conflict with the motor
bracket and the various level sensors. To do a proper repair would
involve stripping the whole thing down to get the drum out which looks
a nightmare.

So it looks as if the best option would be to use something to plug
the leak. As I've said, boss white and silicone sealant don't seem to
be holding, so is there anything else I should be trying ? Can you
get bars-leaks for washing machines ? I really don't want to throw it
away because a few grams of metal have gone AWOL.

Cheers,

Phil Young
Ads
  #2  
Old October 5th 03, 11:19 AM
Bob Minchin
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Posts: n/a
Default Leaking Washing Machine Drum

Phil Young wrote:

Quick version:

The drum of my washer/dryer is leaking around the aperture where the
heating element goes, due to some corrosion round the slot. I've
tired boss white, silicone sealant and doing it up really, really
tight to no good effect.

Is there anything else I should try ?

Longer version:

I've had an Ariston washer dryer for about 12 years. It's been
reliable apart from the heating elements which tend to last about 3-4
years (so I'm on my fourth at the moment). Luckily it's just some
generic one so I've been able to get them fairly cheaply from the
local washing-machine parts shop.

The element slots into an aperture at the lower rear of the (steel)
outer drum. It's fixed in place by tightening a screw which pulls up
a plate to compress a thick rubber seal which then expands to grip the
edge of the drum. Sorry if that's a bit long winded but it's one of
those difficult to describe things that is obvious when you see it in
front of you.

The problem is that the slot has corroded over the years so the rubber
grommet isn't sealing. I've been able to seal it previously with boss
white but this time it's no go. I've tried silcone sealant as well
with no better result.

Repairing the slot would be very difficult - I'd probably have to cut
out the whole area and weld in a larger patch with the original sized
hole cut in it. This isn't really feasible, the slot is down at the
very edge of the drum and any patch would conflict with the motor
bracket and the various level sensors. To do a proper repair would
involve stripping the whole thing down to get the drum out which looks
a nightmare.

So it looks as if the best option would be to use something to plug
the leak. As I've said, boss white and silicone sealant don't seem to
be holding, so is there anything else I should be trying ? Can you
get bars-leaks for washing machines ? I really don't want to throw it
away because a few grams of metal have gone AWOL.

Cheers,

Phil Young


I expect the silicone is sticking to the rust and that the rust itself
being porous, is allowing water to seep through. I expect also that you
are using standard silicone which releases acetic acid (vinegar smell?)
which will further exacerbate the rust corrosion.

You could try killing the rust with jenolite or similar phosphoric acid
based stuff, allow to dry and then paint with multiple layers of cellulose
over a zinc or epoxy based primer.
Once this is really hardened, refit the element with electronic grade
silicone (no acetic acid from this type). Don't bolt up really tight for
a day to allow the silicone to form a seal before you squeeze it all out.
The next day, finally tighten.

Make sure every trace of water is removed before you start.

As an alternative to the paint treatment, after the jenolite stage,
annoint the surfaces with full strength araldite (not the rapid stuff !!)
to seal over the rust and well onto the enamel. If it is cold and the
surface won't smooth nicely, warm GENTLY with a hair dryer. Don't go too
mad with the heat otherwise is will all run away. Leave 24 hours plus
before using silcone to refit the element as above.

hth

Bob


  #3  
Old October 5th 03, 11:42 AM
Phil Young
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Posts: n/a
Default Leaking Washing Machine Drum

On Sun, 05 Oct 2003 11:19:40 +0100, Bob Minchin
wrote:



I expect the silicone is sticking to the rust and that the rust itself
being porous, is allowing water to seep through. I expect also that you
are using standard silicone which releases acetic acid (vinegar smell?)
which will further exacerbate the rust corrosion.


Good point about the rust, that's just the sort of obvious thing I was
missing. The silicone sealer isn't the 'vinegar' sort (as far as I
can see or smell) it's from a tube of RS stuff left over from work.
Very thick, very sticky, looks almost like heatsink compound.

You could try killing the rust with jenolite or similar phosphoric acid
based stuff, allow to dry and then paint with multiple layers of cellulose
over a zinc or epoxy based primer.
Once this is really hardened, refit the element with electronic grade
silicone (no acetic acid from this type). Don't bolt up really tight for
a day to allow the silicone to form a seal before you squeeze it all out.
The next day, finally tighten.


That might work. The slot should be big enough to get an inspection
mirror in, so I could even check and paint the interior edge.

Make sure every trace of water is removed before you start.


Good point, I've been blowing into it with a fan heater.


As an alternative to the paint treatment, after the jenolite stage,
annoint the surfaces with full strength araldite (not the rapid stuff !!)
to seal over the rust and well onto the enamel. If it is cold and the
surface won't smooth nicely, warm GENTLY with a hair dryer. Don't go too
mad with the heat otherwise is will all run away. Leave 24 hours plus
before using silcone to refit the element as above.


This might be plan 'B', I'd be worried about hearing a 'crack' just as
I decide to nip the nut up a tiny bit more.......


hth

Bob


Thanks, that was just the sort of thing I was looking for.

Cheers,

Phil Young
  #4  
Old October 5th 03, 11:54 AM
Tony Williams
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Posts: n/a
Default Leaking Washing Machine Drum

In article ,
Phil Young wrote:

The drum of my washer/dryer is leaking around the aperture where
the heating element goes, due to some corrosion round the slot.
I've tired boss white, silicone sealant and doing it up really,
really tight to no good effect.


Is there anything else I should try ?


I was given a tube of marine-quality silicone sealant.
It's a world away from the silicone sealants in the sheds.

--
Tony Williams. Change "nospam" to "ledelec" to email.
  #5  
Old October 5th 03, 12:01 PM
James Salisbury
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Posts: n/a
Default Leaking Washing Machine Drum


"Tony Williams" wrote in message
...
In article ,
Phil Young wrote:

The drum of my washer/dryer is leaking around the aperture where
the heating element goes, due to some corrosion round the slot.
I've tired boss white, silicone sealant and doing it up really,
really tight to no good effect.


Is there anything else I should try ?


I was given a tube of marine-quality silicone sealant.
It's a world away from the silicone sealants in the sheds.

--


Have a look at wwwrs.com for sealant, you want one that DOES not release
actic acid when curing, most DO!!


  #6  
Old October 5th 03, 12:19 PM
Phil Young
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Posts: n/a
Default Leaking Washing Machine Drum

On Sun, 5 Oct 2003 12:01:54 +0100, "James Salisbury"
wrote:


"Tony Williams" wrote in message
...
In article ,
Phil Young wrote:

The drum of my washer/dryer is leaking around the aperture where
the heating element goes, due to some corrosion round the slot.
I've tired boss white, silicone sealant and doing it up really,
really tight to no good effect.


Is there anything else I should try ?


I was given a tube of marine-quality silicone sealant.
It's a world away from the silicone sealants in the sheds.

--


Have a look at wwwrs.com for sealant, you want one that DOES not release
actic acid when curing, most DO!!


Thanks, that's what I'm using (more by luck than by judgement).
Probably inadequate surface prep. though.

Cheers,

Phil Young
  #7  
Old October 5th 03, 01:55 PM
Phil Young
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Posts: n/a
Default Leaking Washing Machine Drum

On Sun, 5 Oct 2003 12:27:15 +0100, (Steve
Firth) wrote:

Tony Williams wrote:

I was given a tube of marine-quality silicone sealant.
It's a world away from the silicone sealants in the sheds.


Best to use somethign other than silicon. Polyurethane (Sikaflex) is
used extensively below the waterline on boats. Silicon isn't suitable
for continuous immersion.

Ones commonly recommended in uk.rec.sailign a

Adflex: available from builder's merchants in black, white or brown.
Sikaflex: Chandlers, wide range of colours
Arc-Loyal: MS-polymer, slower curing good underwater.
Polysulphide: cheap available at B&Q used for underwater joints (e.g.
keel to hull) no idea if it is any good at all for washing machines.
Nail and Seal' by EvoStick: MS polymer, cheapest available at 3.99 from
some B&Q stores.

Be careful if buying the Evo-Stick product they make many sealants with
similar names, and some are either silicon or acrylic neither of shich
is suitable.


Thanks for that, all good info for the future.

However, looking more closely, I think the silicone was more or less
working, but the drum has begun to rust through around the spot-welds
that attach the motor bracket. These are just under the element (very
small gap) and it looks as if 10 years of accumulated limescale and
gunk under the heater have kept the area wet.

I'll probably try getting the drum out for a laugh in any case, it
might be possible to weld on a repair section.

Anyway, working through that slot has given me a greater appreciation
of gynaecologists, so it's not a completely wasted effort. I think
I'll try and decorate the hall through the letterbox next.

Thanks,

Phil Young

  #8  
Old October 6th 03, 08:59 PM
N. Thornton
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Posts: n/a
Default Leaking Washing Machine Drum

However, looking more closely, I think the silicone was more or less
working, but the drum has begun to rust through around the spot-welds
that attach the motor bracket. These are just under the element (very
small gap) and it looks as if 10 years of accumulated limescale and
gunk under the heater have kept the area wet.

I'll probably try getting the drum out for a laugh in any case, it
might be possible to weld on a repair section.

Anyway, working through that slot has given me a greater appreciation
of gynaecologists, so it's not a completely wasted effort. I think
I'll try and decorate the hall through the letterbox next.

Thanks,

Phil Young



Hehe. What strikes me is to use car body filler products.

Regards, NT
  #9  
Old October 6th 03, 10:46 PM
BigWallop
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Posts: n/a
Default Leaking Washing Machine Drum


"Phil Young" wrote in message
...
Quick version:

The drum of my washer/dryer is leaking around the aperture where the
heating element goes, due to some corrosion round the slot. I've
tired boss white, silicone sealant and doing it up really, really
tight to no good effect.

Is there anything else I should try ?

long version snipped

Cheers,

Phil Young


Once the drum itself becomes corroded, then I'm afraid it is to the knackers
yard with it. These drums are to flimsy to weld and once corroded are very
difficult to make a proper seal around the rusted bits.

The only suggestion I can make, is for you to make two metal plates that
will take the heater and allow you to sandwich the drum around it, between
them with some rubber solution sealant.


---
www.basecuritysystems.no-ip.com

Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
Version: 6.0.522 / Virus Database: 320 - Release Date: 29/09/03


  #10  
Old October 7th 03, 01:18 PM
Phil Young
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Posts: n/a
Default Leaking Washing Machine Drum

On Mon, 06 Oct 2003 21:46:42 GMT, "BigWallop"
wrote:


Once the drum itself becomes corroded, then I'm afraid it is to the knackers
yard with it. These drums are to flimsy to weld and once corroded are very
difficult to make a proper seal around the rusted bits.

The only suggestion I can make, is for you to make two metal plates that
will take the heater and allow you to sandwich the drum around it, between
them with some rubber solution sealant.



Further investigation showed that the outer drum had rusted through
all around the two backets that hold the motor, to the extent that I
could push my finger through once I was actually looking in that area.

I briefly considered trying to get the inner drum out to give access
so I could plate over the inside of the outer drum, but with my
welding I'd probably have ended up with more holes than when I
started.

So I bought a new one instead, what a wimp......

Cheers,

Phil Young
 




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