Cutting some 2 1/2" square tubing into 4 inch pieces today and I found
that the weld bead inside the tubing prevents it from being a slip fit over
the two inch tubing. My pieces are only four inches long so access isn't
really an issue. Does anyone have ideas better than a die grinder for
taking this bead off?
Can I "lay it down" with a torch? Would that take it down enough? I
forgot the inside dimension of the tubing, so the bead will obviously make
up the difference in the clearance, which is fine with me.

carl mciver wrote:

Cutting some 2 1/2" square tubing into 4 inch pieces today and I found
that the weld bead inside the tubing prevents it from being a slip fit over
the two inch tubing. My pieces are only four inches long so access isn't
really an issue. Does anyone have ideas better than a die grinder for
taking this bead off?
Can I "lay it down" with a torch? Would that take it down enough? I
forgot the inside dimension of the tubing, so the bead will obviously make
up the difference in the clearance, which is fine with me.


This would be a fine application for one of those long die-grinder-type
belt grinders. - GWE

On Wed, 4 May 2005 17:42:16 -0700, carl mciver wrote
(in message . net):

Cutting some 2 1/2" square tubing into 4 inch pieces today and I found
that the weld bead inside the tubing prevents it from being a slip fit over
the two inch tubing. My pieces are only four inches long so access isn't
really an issue. Does anyone have ideas better than a die grinder for
taking this bead off?

I made and used a broach on 1/2" tubing where access was a problem. Mine were
also short pieces, well within the capacity of my hydraulic press.

Roger in Vegas
Worlds Greatest Impulse Buyer

Careful use of an arc air gouge should do the trick quickly. Juat stick the
carbon out an extra three inches and go in from each end.
Randy
"carl mciver" wrote in message
ink.net...
Cutting some 2 1/2" square tubing into 4 inch pieces today and I found
that the weld bead inside the tubing prevents it from being a slip fit
over
the two inch tubing. My pieces are only four inches long so access isn't
really an issue. Does anyone have ideas better than a die grinder for
taking this bead off?
Can I "lay it down" with a torch? Would that take it down enough? I
forgot the inside dimension of the tubing, so the bead will obviously make
up the difference in the clearance, which is fine with me.

"carl mciver" wrote in message
ink.net...
Cutting some 2 1/2" square tubing into 4 inch pieces today and I found
that the weld bead inside the tubing prevents it from being a slip fit
over
the two inch tubing. My pieces are only four inches long so access isn't
really an issue. Does anyone have ideas better than a die grinder for
taking this bead off?
Can I "lay it down" with a torch? Would that take it down enough? I
forgot the inside dimension of the tubing, so the bead will obviously make
up the difference in the clearance, which is fine with me.


A mini air belt sander would work perfectly for this.
http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INPDFF?P...&PARTPG=INLMK3
There are other way more expensive brands. Look in McMaster or MSC.
Lane

"carl mciver" wrote in message
ink.net...
Cutting some 2 1/2" square tubing into 4 inch pieces today and I found
that the weld bead inside the tubing prevents it from being a slip fit
over
the two inch tubing. My pieces are only four inches long so access isn't
really an issue. Does anyone have ideas better than a die grinder for
taking this bead off?
Can I "lay it down" with a torch? Would that take it down enough? I
forgot the inside dimension of the tubing, so the bead will obviously make
up the difference in the clearance, which is fine with me.


If it warrants the setup time, square both ends, then use a die sink end
mill to remove the weld. You can tailor the quality to the demand that
way.

Harold

"carl mciver" wrote in message
ink.net...
Cutting some 2 1/2" square tubing into 4 inch pieces today and I found
that the weld bead inside the tubing prevents it from being a slip fit
over
the two inch tubing. My pieces are only four inches long so access isn't
really an issue. Does anyone have ideas better than a die grinder for
taking this bead off?
Can I "lay it down" with a torch? Would that take it down enough? I
forgot the inside dimension of the tubing, so the bead will obviously make
up the difference in the clearance, which is fine with me.


Know anybody who's got a shaper? This is a job taylor-made for one...

Jerry

"Lane" lane (no spam) at copperaccents dot com wrote in message
...

"carl mciver" wrote in message
ink.net...
Cutting some 2 1/2" square tubing into 4 inch pieces today and I found
that the weld bead inside the tubing prevents it from being a slip fit
over
the two inch tubing. My pieces are only four inches long so access isn't
really an issue. Does anyone have ideas better than a die grinder for
taking this bead off?
Can I "lay it down" with a torch? Would that take it down enough? I
forgot the inside dimension of the tubing, so the bead will obviously
make
up the difference in the clearance, which is fine with me.


A mini air belt sander would work perfectly for this.
http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INPDFF?P...&PARTPG=INLMK3
There are other way more expensive brands. Look in McMaster or MSC.
Lane

I've done this. It works, but have several spare belts on hand.

"carl mciver" wrote in message
ink.net...
Cutting some 2 1/2" square tubing into 4 inch pieces today and I found
that the weld bead inside the tubing prevents it from being a slip fit
over
the two inch tubing. My pieces are only four inches long so access isn't
really an issue. Does anyone have ideas better than a die grinder for
taking this bead off?
Can I "lay it down" with a torch? Would that take it down enough? I
forgot the inside dimension of the tubing, so the bead will obviously make
up the difference in the clearance, which is fine with me.

Since the pieces are but 4" long, do it the way the old-timers would -- with
a cold chisel.

You may have to regrind your point to get the proper work angle between the
chisel and workpiece.

LLoyd

On Thu, 05 May 2005 11:54:32 GMT, "Lloyd E. Sponenburgh"
wrote:


"carl mciver" wrote in message
link.net...
Cutting some 2 1/2" square tubing into 4 inch pieces today and I found
that the weld bead inside the tubing prevents it from being a slip fit
over
the two inch tubing. My pieces are only four inches long so access isn't
really an issue. Does anyone have ideas better than a die grinder for
taking this bead off?
Can I "lay it down" with a torch? Would that take it down enough? I
forgot the inside dimension of the tubing, so the bead will obviously make
up the difference in the clearance, which is fine with me.

Since the pieces are but 4" long, do it the way the old-timers would -- with
a cold chisel.

You may have to regrind your point to get the proper work angle between the
chisel and workpiece.

LLoyd

I do this all the time. Simply lay it flat in a vise and stick in a
course mill ******* file and give it a few passes. Since the file
sticks out both ends, its easy to apply pressure evenly.

Gunner

Liberals - Cosmopolitan critics, men who are the friends
of every country save their own. Benjamin Disraeli

Gunner wrote:
On Thu, 05 May 2005 11:54:32 GMT, "Lloyd E. Sponenburgh"
wrote:


"carl mciver" wrote in message
link.net...
Cutting some 2 1/2" square tubing into 4 inch pieces today and
I found
that the weld bead inside the tubing prevents it from being a slip
fit
over
the two inch tubing. My pieces are only four inches long so
access isn't
really an issue. Does anyone have ideas better than a die grinder
for
taking this bead off?
Can I "lay it down" with a torch? Would that take it down
enough? I
forgot the inside dimension of the tubing, so the bead will
obviously make
up the difference in the clearance, which is fine with me.

Since the pieces are but 4" long, do it the way the old-timers would
-- with
a cold chisel.

You may have to regrind your point to get the proper work angle
between the
chisel and workpiece.

LLoyd

I do this all the time. Simply lay it flat in a vise and stick in a
course mill ******* file and give it a few passes. Since the file
sticks out both ends, its easy to apply pressure evenly.

Gunner

Liberals - Cosmopolitan critics, men who are the friends
of every country save their own. Benjamin Disraeli

WHY NOT JUST BUY A PIECE OF "RECEIVER" TUBING THAT'S USED ON TRAILER
HITCHES. RECEIVERS. IT DOESN'T HAVE THE SEAM IN IT.

RONNIE

"Ronnie" wrote in message
oups.com...
|
| WHY NOT JUST BUY A PIECE OF "RECEIVER" TUBING THAT'S USED ON TRAILER
| HITCHES. RECEIVERS. IT DOESN'T HAVE THE SEAM IN IT.
|
| RONNIE

Well, I'll be using over 20 pieces with my current project. I need to
do it cheap, and have lots of time coming up.

carl mciver wrote:
"Ronnie" wrote in message
oups.com...

WHY NOT JUST BUY A PIECE OF "RECEIVER" TUBING THAT'S USED ON TRAILER
HITCHES. RECEIVERS. IT DOESN'T HAVE THE SEAM IN IT.

RONNIE

Well, I'll be using over 20 pieces with my current project. I
need to do it cheap, and have lots of time coming up.

As Gunner suggested; File it.
Simple, cheap, satisfying.

Ken.

I vote for filing too, after thinking about it. Real good excuse to
buy a new 12" ******* file with a nice new handle. - GWE

Ken Davey wrote:

carl mciver wrote:

"Ronnie" wrote in message
groups.com...

WHY NOT JUST BUY A PIECE OF "RECEIVER" TUBING THAT'S USED ON TRAILER
HITCHES. RECEIVERS. IT DOESN'T HAVE THE SEAM IN IT.

RONNIE

Well, I'll be using over 20 pieces with my current project. I
need to do it cheap, and have lots of time coming up.


As Gunner suggested; File it.
Simple, cheap, satisfying.

Ken.

"Grant Erwin" wrote in message
...
I vote for filing too, after thinking about it. Real good excuse to
buy a new 12" ******* file with a nice new handle. - GWE


For multiple pieces? Not saying it won't work, but how much trouble is
anyone willing to endure to remove 4" of weld? I'd suggest that it could
prove to be a daunting task, especially if the welds have considerable
flash. That's really the key to how to make the parts fit. If the flash
is substantial, filing could get old real fast. By handling properly, each
part could conceivably be machined as I suggested in no more than two or
three minutes, with complete control.

Do keep in mind I don't like using files for anything except for deburring.
Others may enjoy their use.

Harold

On 5 May 2005 10:17:48 -0700, "Ronnie" wrote:


Gunner wrote:
On Thu, 05 May 2005 11:54:32 GMT, "Lloyd E. Sponenburgh"
wrote:


"carl mciver" wrote in message
link.net...
Cutting some 2 1/2" square tubing into 4 inch pieces today and
I found
that the weld bead inside the tubing prevents it from being a slip
fit
over
the two inch tubing. My pieces are only four inches long so
access isn't
really an issue. Does anyone have ideas better than a die grinder
for
taking this bead off?
Can I "lay it down" with a torch? Would that take it down
enough? I
forgot the inside dimension of the tubing, so the bead will
obviously make
up the difference in the clearance, which is fine with me.

Since the pieces are but 4" long, do it the way the old-timers would
-- with
a cold chisel.

You may have to regrind your point to get the proper work angle
between the
chisel and workpiece.

LLoyd

I do this all the time. Simply lay it flat in a vise and stick in a
course mill ******* file and give it a few passes. Since the file
sticks out both ends, its easy to apply pressure evenly.

Gunner

Liberals - Cosmopolitan critics, men who are the friends
of every country save their own. Benjamin Disraeli

WHY NOT JUST BUY A PIECE OF "RECEIVER" TUBING THAT'S USED ON TRAILER
HITCHES. RECEIVERS. IT DOESN'T HAVE THE SEAM IN IT.

RONNIE

BECAUSE SOMETIMES YOU CAN GET THE WELDED TUBING FOR FREE RATHER THAN
HAVING TO PAY AN ARM AND A LEG FOR IT. AND OTHER TIMES YOU MAY HAVE TO
GO MANY MANY MILES TO FIND RECEIVER TUBING AND YOU MAY HAVE SOME OF
THE WELDED KIND IN YOUR STOCKPILE.

GUNNER


Liberals - Cosmopolitan critics, men who are the friends
of every country save their own. Benjamin Disraeli

On Thu, 5 May 2005 20:34:24 -0700, "Ken Davey"
wrote:

carl mciver wrote:
"Ronnie" wrote in message
oups.com...

WHY NOT JUST BUY A PIECE OF "RECEIVER" TUBING THAT'S USED ON TRAILER
HITCHES. RECEIVERS. IT DOESN'T HAVE THE SEAM IN IT.

RONNIE

Well, I'll be using over 20 pieces with my current project. I
need to do it cheap, and have lots of time coming up.

As Gunner suggested; File it.
Simple, cheap, satisfying.

Ken.

Less filling, tastes great. Low in carbs, high in fiber and can
increase your bicep size by at least 1" in less than 90 days or your
money back!

Gunner


Liberals - Cosmopolitan critics, men who are the friends
of every country save their own. Benjamin Disraeli

"Gunner" wrote in message
...
On 5 May 2005 10:17:48 -0700, "Ronnie" wrote:


Gunner wrote:
On Thu, 05 May 2005 11:54:32 GMT, "Lloyd E. Sponenburgh"
wrote:


"carl mciver" wrote in message
link.net...
Cutting some 2 1/2" square tubing into 4 inch pieces today and
I found
that the weld bead inside the tubing prevents it from being a slip
fit
over
the two inch tubing. My pieces are only four inches long so
access isn't
really an issue. Does anyone have ideas better than a die grinder
for
taking this bead off?
Can I "lay it down" with a torch? Would that take it down
enough? I
forgot the inside dimension of the tubing, so the bead will
obviously make
up the difference in the clearance, which is fine with me.

Since the pieces are but 4" long, do it the way the old-timers would
-- with
a cold chisel.

You may have to regrind your point to get the proper work angle
between the
chisel and workpiece.

LLoyd

I do this all the time. Simply lay it flat in a vise and stick in a
course mill ******* file and give it a few passes. Since the file
sticks out both ends, its easy to apply pressure evenly.

Gunner

Liberals - Cosmopolitan critics, men who are the friends
of every country save their own. Benjamin Disraeli

WHY NOT JUST BUY A PIECE OF "RECEIVER" TUBING THAT'S USED ON TRAILER
HITCHES. RECEIVERS. IT DOESN'T HAVE THE SEAM IN IT.

RONNIE

BECAUSE SOMETIMES YOU CAN GET THE WELDED TUBING FOR FREE RATHER THAN
HAVING TO PAY AN ARM AND A LEG FOR IT. AND OTHER TIMES YOU MAY HAVE TO
GO MANY MANY MILES TO FIND RECEIVER TUBING AND YOU MAY HAVE SOME OF
THE WELDED KIND IN YOUR STOCKPILE.

GUNNER

YEP! I AGREE WITH GUNNER.

HAROLD

The fastest would probably be a broach. The broach would be a single pass
solution and would happen in seconds. You'll spend more time swapping parts
than the actual work itself. Do backup the joint for more repeatable
machining.

--
Why isn't there an Ozone Hole at the NORTH Pole?

"Bob May" wrote in message
...
| The fastest would probably be a broach. The broach would be a single pass
| solution and would happen in seconds. You'll spend more time swapping
parts
| than the actual work itself. Do backup the joint for more repeatable
| machining.

This one I considered awhile, but all I have is air, arc, and a torch,
no machine tools. If I could secure a chisel in a smaller piece of pipe
somehow, then pound on the inside pipe/broach, I wonder how far it'd get
before I couldn't get it out anymore or broke the chisel.
I think I have a chisel for the air hammer, I'll have to see how well
that does.

I won't be able to get to this idea for a few days, I just had my
shoulder operated on yesterday and the tradeoff with being able to use both
sets of fingers in more pain. Can't win somedays... All ideas will be
entertained/attempted eventually, depending on how much I can get away with
doing when the wife isn't here to watch over me!

"carl mciver" wrote in message
nk.net...
"Bob May" wrote in message
...
| The fastest would probably be a broach. The broach would be a single
pass
| solution and would happen in seconds. You'll spend more time swapping
parts
| than the actual work itself. Do backup the joint for more repeatable
| machining.

This one I considered awhile, but all I have is air, arc, and a torch,
no machine tools. If I could secure a chisel in a smaller piece of pipe
somehow, then pound on the inside pipe/broach, I wonder how far it'd get
before I couldn't get it out anymore or broke the chisel.
I think I have a chisel for the air hammer, I'll have to see how well
that does.

I won't be able to get to this idea for a few days, I just had my
shoulder operated on yesterday and the tradeoff with being able to use
both
sets of fingers in more pain. Can't win somedays... All ideas will be
entertained/attempted eventually, depending on how much I can get away
with
doing when the wife isn't here to watch over me!


Sorry to hear about your surgery, and hoping you're doing OK.

Given that you have no machinery, and a proper broach could prove to be
quite expensive, and you have no arbor press with which to push it, here's
an idea that may work, and easily. If you have an air chisel, alter the
end such that it will slide along the desired surface so it will cut flush
with the contact side of the chisel, much like a gasket scraper. If you can
get it started in the right location, the load of the flash against the
chisel might keep it running smoothly along the inside surface such that it
will cut flush. Manipulating the angle of the chisel in the tubing would
help. Unless the flash is extreme, I can't imagine it trapping the chisel
such that you couldn't cut at least half way from each end of the 4" section
of tubing you described earlier. Again, the amount of flash is critical.
Too little and it won't work at all.

Good luck, keep us posted.

Harold

carl mciver wrote:
Cutting some 2 1/2" square tubing into 4 inch pieces today and I found
that the weld bead inside the tubing prevents it from being a slip fit over
the two inch tubing. My pieces are only four inches long so access isn't
really an issue. Does anyone have ideas better than a die grinder for
taking this bead off?
Can I "lay it down" with a torch? Would that take it down enough? I
forgot the inside dimension of the tubing, so the bead will obviously make
up the difference in the clearance, which is fine with me.


Possible to just plannish it?

dp