[Kate[_4_]]

I posted here about two weeks ago concerning the problem I had in my
lawn about Johnson Grass (a weed). I applied Roundup on the patches,
just like the lawn service company told me to do.

So far it is going OK. I reseeded my lawn where the bad patches were,
and am already getting a little bit of new grass. I reseeded last Weds.
and the temps were perfect - 75 - 85. Now, we are back into the
mid 90's so I have been lightly watering a lot.

Now I am wondering what is the best way to mow this new grass.
Should I mulch it or bag it?

I won't be ready to mow until 3 - 4 weeks (my best guess), so I thought
I would ask this question ahead of time.

I am having my mower tuned up right now, and the blade will be
sharpened.

Thanks again. Everyone's help is much appreciated.

Kate

[[email protected]]

On Aug 5, 3:30*am, Kate wrote:
I posted here about two weeks ago concerning the problem I had in my
lawn about Johnson Grass (a weed). *I applied Roundup on the patches,
just like the lawn service company told me to do.

So far it is going OK. *I reseeded my lawn where the bad patches were,
and am already getting a little bit of new grass. *I reseeded last Weds..
and the temps were perfect - 75 - 85. *Now, we are back into the
mid 90's so I have been lightly watering a lot.

Now I am wondering what is the best way to mow this new grass.
Should I mulch it or bag it?

I won't be ready to mow until 3 - 4 weeks (my best guess), so I thought
I would ask this question ahead of time.

I am having my mower tuned up right now, and the blade will be
sharpened.

Thanks again. *Everyone's help is much appreciated.

Kate


Mow it however you mow the rest of the lawn, it doesn't matter.

[ransley]

On Aug 5, 2:30*am, Kate wrote:
I posted here about two weeks ago concerning the problem I had in my
lawn about Johnson Grass (a weed). *I applied Roundup on the patches,
just like the lawn service company told me to do.

So far it is going OK. *I reseeded my lawn where the bad patches were,
and am already getting a little bit of new grass. *I reseeded last Weds..
and the temps were perfect - 75 - 85. *Now, we are back into the
mid 90's so I have been lightly watering a lot.

Now I am wondering what is the best way to mow this new grass.
Should I mulch it or bag it?

I won't be ready to mow until 3 - 4 weeks (my best guess), so I thought
I would ask this question ahead of time.

I am having my mower tuned up right now, and the blade will be
sharpened.

Thanks again. *Everyone's help is much appreciated.

Kate

I hope you did not use the roundup that states no planting for 6
months, mulch it

[RLM]

On Tue, 05 Aug 2008 12:24:23 +0000, Stephen King wrote:

Kate wrote in
:

I posted here about two weeks ago concerning the problem I had in my
lawn about Johnson Grass (a weed). I applied Roundup on the patches,
just like the lawn service company told me to do.

So far it is going OK. I reseeded my lawn where the bad patches were,
and am already getting a little bit of new grass. I reseeded last Weds.
and the temps were perfect - 75 - 85. Now, we are back into the
mid 90's so I have been lightly watering a lot.

Now I am wondering what is the best way to mow this new grass.
Should I mulch it or bag it?

I won't be ready to mow until 3 - 4 weeks (my best guess), so I thought
I would ask this question ahead of time.

I am having my mower tuned up right now, and the blade will be
sharpened.

Thanks again. Everyone's help is much appreciated.

Kate


My neighbor used to fuss over his lawn.
He's now dead.
The new neighbor takes care like a normal person.
Go do something more important.

My kind of thinking.

Leave it grow until it goes to seed. Then cut it as high as the mower
allows and leave clippings to mulch. The tall grass provides shade for
seedlings and retains water. Recut again when it goes to seed. Repeat as
required but no sooner.

[cshenk]

wrote in message

Leave it grow until it goes to seed. Then cut it as high as the mower
allows and leave clippings to mulch. The tall grass provides shade for
seedlings and retains water. Recut again when it goes to seed. Repeat as
required but no sooner.

Grin, I wish! Naw the city gives tickets if not cut often enough here.
Long before it gets to seeding level.

[Kate[_4_]]

No I did not.

ransley wrote:
On Aug 5, 2:30 am, Kate wrote:
I posted here about two weeks ago concerning the problem I had in my
lawn about Johnson Grass (a weed). I applied Roundup on the patches,
just like the lawn service company told me to do.

So far it is going OK. I reseeded my lawn where the bad patches were,
and am already getting a little bit of new grass. I reseeded last Weds.
and the temps were perfect - 75 - 85. Now, we are back into the
mid 90's so I have been lightly watering a lot.

Now I am wondering what is the best way to mow this new grass.
Should I mulch it or bag it?

I won't be ready to mow until 3 - 4 weeks (my best guess), so I thought
I would ask this question ahead of time.

I am having my mower tuned up right now, and the blade will be
sharpened.

Thanks again. Everyone's help is much appreciated.

Kate

I hope you did not use the roundup that states no planting for 6
months, mulch it

[David Nebenzahl]

On 8/5/2008 12:30 AM Kate spake thus:

I posted here about two weeks ago concerning the problem I had in my
lawn about Johnson Grass (a weed). I applied Roundup on the patches,
just like the lawn service company told me to do.

So far it is going OK. I reseeded my lawn where the bad patches were,
and am already getting a little bit of new grass. I reseeded last Weds.
and the temps were perfect - 75 - 85. Now, we are back into the
mid 90's so I have been lightly watering a lot.

Now I am wondering what is the best way to mow this new grass.
Should I mulch it or bag it?

Not the answer you were looking for: get rid of the lawn. Manicured,
well-watered lawns will soon be a thing of the past, along with leaded
gasoline, gas-guzzling automobiles and carefree consumption. Get used to
(and ready for) the new world of water shortages.


--
"Wikipedia ... it reminds me ... of dogs barking idiotically through
endless nights. It is so bad that a sort of grandeur creeps into it.
It drags itself out of the dark abyss of pish, and crawls insanely up
the topmost pinnacle of posh. It is rumble and bumble. It is flap and
doodle. It is balder and dash."

- With apologies to H. L. Mencken

[Kate[_4_]]

I agree with you. That is one reason I moved out of my large home three
years ago, and into this smaller one. Yardwise, it is a cinch. I have
mostly rock which is used alot in WA State.

This patch of grass is very small.

David Nebenzahl wrote:
On 8/5/2008 12:30 AM Kate spake thus:

I posted here about two weeks ago concerning the problem I had in my
lawn about Johnson Grass (a weed). I applied Roundup on the patches,
just like the lawn service company told me to do.

So far it is going OK. I reseeded my lawn where the bad patches were,
and am already getting a little bit of new grass. I reseeded last
Weds. and the temps were perfect - 75 - 85. Now, we are back into the
mid 90's so I have been lightly watering a lot.

Now I am wondering what is the best way to mow this new grass.
Should I mulch it or bag it?

Not the answer you were looking for: get rid of the lawn. Manicured,
well-watered lawns will soon be a thing of the past, along with leaded
gasoline, gas-guzzling automobiles and carefree consumption. Get used to
(and ready for) the new world of water shortages.

[JimR]

wrote in message
...
On Tue, 5 Aug 2008 12:08:16 -0400, "cshenk" wrote:

wrote in message

Leave it grow until it goes to seed. Then cut it as high as the mower
allows and leave clippings to mulch. The tall grass provides shade for
seedlings and retains water. Recut again when it goes to seed. Repeat as
required but no sooner.

Grin, I wish! Naw the city gives tickets if not cut often enough here.
Long before it gets to seeding level.


I didn't write the above, but it's good advice. Even in olaces wher it
is frowned upon, keeping the grass an extra inch or two tall makes a
huge difference in keeping weeds down, and reducing the need for
watering. You don't have tto let it grow 6 inches of more to get a
worthwhile benefit. Just set your mower to the highest setting, and
the lawn will still look very neat and manicured.

For most turfgrasses, 3" is a pretty good height after mowing, and you
should cut off no more than about 1/3 of the blade at a time, so set your
mower for about 3" amd mow it when it gets over 4". is not a bad rule of
thumb. Leave the clippings on the ground to add organic material to the
soil. That'll keep both the city and your lawn happy. If you let the lawn
get taller and thicker than 4 - 4 1/2 " before you cut it, you may generate
piles of clippings which will make your turf look blotchy because the spots
under the clumps of clippings won't be getting sunlight or growing like the
rest.

But as others have said, don't obsess. Mow it when it needs it, keep the
blade sharp, and put your real energy somewhere else..

[JimR]

"David Nebenzahl" wrote in message
s.com...


Not the answer you were looking for: get rid of the lawn. Manicured,
well-watered lawns will soon be a thing of the past, along with leaded
gasoline, gas-guzzling automobiles and carefree consumption. Get used to
(and ready for) the new world of water shortages.

It depends on where you live -- after two years of drought here, if you poke
a stick in the ground, water comes gushing out. All the houses in this area
have artesian wells and some leave them running 24/7, in order to have
fountains and running streams in their landscaping. I had to dig a wide
hole and pump from it in order to drain an new 18" trench that an
electrician needed to use for outside wiring. None of our trees have tap
roots because of the high water table, and the predominant species is
cypress swamp. Although the government has a two-day-a-week watering
restriction because of the drought, no one pays any attention to it,
including the local government.

Actually, I've turned off my irrigation system because the daily afternoon
storms keep everything well watered. I think the point of your comment
ought not to be that someone is going to start controlling yet another
aspect of our lives, it is that homeowners ought to be intelligent enough to
have a landscape that fits into the local climate, and the local government
ought to be smart enough to allow the landscaping to suite the local needs.
That's particularly a problem in retirement areas, in which people come from
other areas and try to impose their old standards on the new area, just
because they're used to the look of turfgrass, or plantless lakes, and don't
understand how their new home differs.

It may be that in your area gravel and cactus are the preferred landscape
and 55 mph the self-imposed speed limit. A yard lacking vegetation here
would look silly and quickly be overtaken by weeds and mildew -- it's not a
suitable climate for that austerity. Similarly, with few people, lots of
wide open spaces and long distances to drive, someone trying to hold to 55
mph is going to be blown off the road by 99% of the other vehicles.

[Kate[_4_]]

Great reply, and I appreciate it.

JimR wrote:
wrote in message
...
On Tue, 5 Aug 2008 12:08:16 -0400, "cshenk" wrote:

wrote in message

Leave it grow until it goes to seed. Then cut it as high as the mower
allows and leave clippings to mulch. The tall grass provides shade for
seedlings and retains water. Recut again when it goes to seed. Repeat as
required but no sooner.
Grin, I wish! Naw the city gives tickets if not cut often enough here.
Long before it gets to seeding level.

I didn't write the above, but it's good advice. Even in olaces wher it
is frowned upon, keeping the grass an extra inch or two tall makes a
huge difference in keeping weeds down, and reducing the need for
watering. You don't have tto let it grow 6 inches of more to get a
worthwhile benefit. Just set your mower to the highest setting, and
the lawn will still look very neat and manicured.

For most turfgrasses, 3" is a pretty good height after mowing, and you
should cut off no more than about 1/3 of the blade at a time, so set your
mower for about 3" amd mow it when it gets over 4". is not a bad rule of
thumb. Leave the clippings on the ground to add organic material to the
soil. That'll keep both the city and your lawn happy. If you let the lawn
get taller and thicker than 4 - 4 1/2 " before you cut it, you may generate
piles of clippings which will make your turf look blotchy because the spots
under the clumps of clippings won't be getting sunlight or growing like the
rest.

But as others have said, don't obsess. Mow it when it needs it, keep the
blade sharp, and put your real energy somewhere else..