We need to tap into the waste pipe close to where it exits our basement
in order to get enough elevation to reach a basement sink we are
installing.

However, when we had the plumber come in, he noticed that the pipe
appears to have some hairline cracks and rusting flakes. The plumber
is afraid that if he cuts in to the existing pipe to put in a "T", he
may crack the whole pipe including the adjacent part that runs through
the foundation. Needless to say, this would be a b--ch to repair.

Any way to "strengthen" or brace the pipe so that he can cut into it
more safely?

Would putting generous amounts of JB Weld around any of the cracked
areas be sufficient? (probably not, I imagine)

Thanks

"blueman" wrote in message
...
We need to tap into the waste pipe close to where it exits our basement
in order to get enough elevation to reach a basement sink we are
installing.

However, when we had the plumber come in, he noticed that the pipe
appears to have some hairline cracks and rusting flakes. The plumber
is afraid that if he cuts in to the existing pipe to put in a "T", he
may crack the whole pipe including the adjacent part that runs through
the foundation. Needless to say, this would be a b--ch to repair.

Any way to "strengthen" or brace the pipe so that he can cut into it
more safely?

Would putting generous amounts of JB Weld around any of the cracked
areas be sufficient? (probably not, I imagine)

Thanks

First of all if there are if it's that bad it should be replaced. A
conventional snap cutter will put allot of force on the pipe. So you might
be better off with a small grinder and some cut off wheels.

It would be a major mistake to not replace this cast iron, if the problems
with it are so apparent.
A no-brainer.

bill


"blueman" wrote in message
...
We need to tap into the waste pipe close to where it exits our basement
in order to get enough elevation to reach a basement sink we are
installing.

However, when we had the plumber come in, he noticed that the pipe
appears to have some hairline cracks and rusting flakes. The plumber
is afraid that if he cuts in to the existing pipe to put in a "T", he
may crack the whole pipe including the adjacent part that runs through
the foundation. Needless to say, this would be a b--ch to repair.

Any way to "strengthen" or brace the pipe so that he can cut into it
more safely?

Would putting generous amounts of JB Weld around any of the cracked
areas be sufficient? (probably not, I imagine)

Thanks

"rider89" writes:
It would be a major mistake to not replace this cast iron, if the
problems with it are so apparent.
A no-brainer.

The problem is that the bad section extends through an 18 inch 100
year old stone foundation about 8 feet underground with only the last
24 inches or so inside the house. Presumably replacing the pipe would
require tunneling through the foundation and deep beneath the yard.
My plumber is concerned that even cutting into the next section of
pipe could disturb this older, corroded section.

I concur with the cut-off wheel suggestion. Traditional back and
forth hacksaw action from a sawzall type saw would vibrate and jostle
that thing to bits...

The thinnest cutoff wheel possible (small kerf) would be the best.
Maybe even a dremmel type cutter with a LOT of patience..

let the next guy worry about it, right?

unfortunately, most folks "fix it" that way.

"I R Baboon" wrote in message
...
let the next guy worry about it, right?

"Jack" wrote in message
oups.com...
I concur with the cut-off wheel suggestion. Traditional back and
forth hacksaw action from a sawzall type saw would vibrate and jostle
that thing to bits...

The thinnest cutoff wheel possible (small kerf) would be the best.
Maybe even a dremmel type cutter with a LOT of patience..


Ever cut cast iron with a sawzall. Buy a case of blades and bring a pillow

"I R Baboon" wrote in message
...
let the next guy worry about it, right?

That's the American way whatever makes you sleep better at night . But we
all know when you fix it later it cost more.

blueman wrote:

"rider89" writes:
It would be a major mistake to not replace this cast iron, if the
problems with it are so apparent.
A no-brainer.

The problem is that the bad section extends through an 18 inch 100
year old stone foundation about 8 feet underground with only the last
24 inches or so inside the house. Presumably replacing the pipe would
require tunneling through the foundation and deep beneath the yard.
My plumber is concerned that even cutting into the next section of
pipe could disturb this older, corroded section.

so... even tho you know its bad, and in dire need of replacement, you have
no intention of fixing it? How's you car? do you maintain it the same way?
Sheesh!
Eric

"Eric" wrote in message
. ..
blueman wrote:

"rider89" writes:
It would be a major mistake to not replace this cast iron, if the
problems with it are so apparent.
A no-brainer.

The problem is that the bad section extends through an 18 inch 100
year old stone foundation about 8 feet underground with only the last
24 inches or so inside the house. Presumably replacing the pipe would
require tunneling through the foundation and deep beneath the yard.
My plumber is concerned that even cutting into the next section of
pipe could disturb this older, corroded section.

so... even tho you know its bad, and in dire need of replacement, you have
no intention of fixing it? How's you car? do you maintain it the same way?
Sheesh!
Eric
It'll be a lot cheaper and easier to do something about it now, under your
terms, then when after it fails and floods your basement with sewage, or
fails out in the yard and contaminates your ground water. (even if you don't
have a well, a neigbor might.) A common solution in situations like this is
to abandon the old line in place, after disconnecting the street end, and
capping or mudding over the basement end, and simply running a new line,
which can be done with a skinny trench, or in some cases via a 'no trench'
method, at least where it runs under patios and driveways and such.

Yes, maintaining a house is sometimes an expensive PITA, especially an older
house like this. But it is false economy to put off needed repairs. And if
you should decide to sell in the next ten years or so, a fresh modern sewer
line would be a big selling point to anyone who has ever had a sewer line
fail. If it had ever happened to you, you would strongly want to never go
through that again.

aem sends...

On Thu, 06 Oct 2005 05:53:44 GMT, blueman wrote:

We need to tap into the waste pipe close to where it exits our basement
in order to get enough elevation to reach a basement sink we are
installing.

However, when we had the plumber come in, he noticed that the pipe
appears to have some hairline cracks and rusting flakes. The plumber
is afraid that if he cuts in to the existing pipe to put in a "T", he
may crack the whole pipe including the adjacent part that runs through
the foundation. Needless to say, this would be a b--ch to repair.

Any way to "strengthen" or brace the pipe so that he can cut into it
more safely?

Would putting generous amounts of JB Weld around any of the cracked
areas be sufficient? (probably not, I imagine)

Thanks

Don't fix what ain't broke.

They make a chain snap cutter. You need an old plumber to operate it
however. He can snap the cast iror exactly where he wants to and add
a rubber transition to new pvc.

"Sherman" wrote in message
news
On Thu, 06 Oct 2005 05:53:44 GMT, blueman wrote:

We need to tap into the waste pipe close to where it exits our basement
in order to get enough elevation to reach a basement sink we are
installing.

However, when we had the plumber come in, he noticed that the pipe
appears to have some hairline cracks and rusting flakes. The plumber
is afraid that if he cuts in to the existing pipe to put in a "T", he
may crack the whole pipe including the adjacent part that runs through
the foundation. Needless to say, this would be a b--ch to repair.

Any way to "strengthen" or brace the pipe so that he can cut into it
more safely?

Would putting generous amounts of JB Weld around any of the cracked
areas be sufficient? (probably not, I imagine)

Thanks

Don't fix what ain't broke.

They make a chain snap cutter. You need an old plumber to operate it
however. He can snap the cast iror exactly where he wants to and add
a rubber transition to new pvc.

A snap cutter puts a large amount of force on the pipe. I have shattered
new cast with them .

Something to keep in mind is that if you can see that the pipe is cracked,
etc, so will an inspector if you were to sell the place.
Like another poster said, you could probably run a parallel lateral, and at
least have be able to use your plumbing while this is going on.
The actual connections at each end would only take an hour or so.
If your old pipe were to break, you'll be out of your house for days.

bill

"blueman" wrote in message
...
We need to tap into the waste pipe close to where it exits our basement
in order to get enough elevation to reach a basement sink we are
installing.

However, when we had the plumber come in, he noticed that the pipe
appears to have some hairline cracks and rusting flakes. The plumber
is afraid that if he cuts in to the existing pipe to put in a "T", he
may crack the whole pipe including the adjacent part that runs through
the foundation. Needless to say, this would be a b--ch to repair.

Any way to "strengthen" or brace the pipe so that he can cut into it
more safely?

Would putting generous amounts of JB Weld around any of the cracked
areas be sufficient? (probably not, I imagine)

Thanks

On Fri, 07 Oct 2005 19:33:50 GMT, "Sacramento Dave"
wrote:


"Sherman" wrote in message
news
On Thu, 06 Oct 2005 05:53:44 GMT, blueman wrote:

We need to tap into the waste pipe close to where it exits our basement
in order to get enough elevation to reach a basement sink we are
installing.

However, when we had the plumber come in, he noticed that the pipe
appears to have some hairline cracks and rusting flakes. The plumber
is afraid that if he cuts in to the existing pipe to put in a "T", he
may crack the whole pipe including the adjacent part that runs through
the foundation. Needless to say, this would be a b--ch to repair.

Any way to "strengthen" or brace the pipe so that he can cut into it
more safely?

Would putting generous amounts of JB Weld around any of the cracked
areas be sufficient? (probably not, I imagine)

Thanks

Don't fix what ain't broke.

They make a chain snap cutter. You need an old plumber to operate it
however. He can snap the cast iror exactly where he wants to and add
a rubber transition to new pvc.

A snap cutter puts a large amount of force on the pipe. I have shattered
new cast with them .

Are you an old plumber?

An old plumber knows how to NOT do that.
But he has shattered a lot of pipe in the learning process while he
is a young plumber.