In article , "George" george@least wrote:

If ever there was a case of measure with a micrometer and cut with a meat
axe, it's Ed's toy. "It's .003 off to the left, so how many times do I need
to hit the rear trunnion bolt with this mallet for .003?"

And how does that differ in *any* respect from making the same measurement
with feeler gauges?

The tools and methods used to make the measurement are irrelevant to the
corrective action required: it's *still* three-thou off, and you *still* need
to either adjust it, or ignore it.

All that Ed, and anyone else in the dial indicator camp, have ever claimed is
that obtaining accurate measurements is easier and faster with a dial
indicator. And as Ed points out, there's very little difference in price
between a decent set of feeler gauges and a basic ID. Plus, the DI has many
other uses besides.

You still haven't explained why you're so opposed to using a DI.

--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

Nobody ever left footprints in the sands of time by sitting on his butt.
And who wants to leave buttprints in the sands of time?

George,

While I would love to take credit, I didn't invent the dial indicator
so I can't exactly call it my "toy". I will take credit for the
TS-Aligner products, but they are just fancy fixturing for dial
indicators.

Perhaps I can help you understand what makes alignments with a dial
indicator so much easier than traditional "feel the rub" or "hear the
scrape" methods. To answer your question precisely: you "hit" the
turnnion enough to change the reading on the dial indicator so that the
0.003" error is eliminated. That's one of the great things about using
a dial indicator, you can leave it on the object that your are
adjusting and watch the progress of your adjustmentments in real time
so that you know exactly what to do and how much to do it. There's no
subjective guess work.

Or, perhaps this will not help you to understand...Maybe if you sprung
for the $8.50 and just goofed around with one for a while you might
eventually get the idea. They don't bite and aren't so hard to use
that your ego would be in danger of getting bruised. You might
actually learn something new in the process.

Thanks,
Ed Bennett


http://www.ts-aligner.com
Home of the TS-Aligner!

George wrote:
If ever there was a case of measure with a micrometer and cut with a
meat
axe, it's Ed's toy. "It's .003 off to the left, so how many times do
I need
to hit the rear trunnion bolt with this mallet for .003?"

George wrote:
You didn't seem to comprehend much then, either.


You're a stitch George.

UA100

I've got a pretty nice Starrett dial indicator and a magnetic base but
I've found that I get good results by using a simple combo square.

I mark a tooth with a magic marker and check it where it would enter
and leave a cut, with the blade run high.

It's fast and simple.

I find that the Unisaw stays put pretty much, once it's been set, as
opposed to the Delta Contractors Saw that I had before, which needed
to be reset maybe once a month, in a shop where it was used maybe
twenty to thirty hours a week.

As always, YMMV.



Tom Watson - WoodDorker
tjwatson1ATcomcastDOTnet (email)
http://home.comcast.net/~tjwatson1/ (website)