Delurk mode. I have a bunch of drill bits that are in need of sharpening, do
the most of you wooddorkers send them out for sharpening like for the TS
blades? or do you sharpen your own. I'm not talented enough to sharpen them
myself and I won't buy that sharpening machine...looks like it doesn't do a
great job, anyhoo...just want some input...I have a professional sharpening
service local. I have to call them up to see if they do bits or not, they do
ts blades,router bits...very good company and rep. Thanks for the input

Tina

A friend of mine has a Drill Doctor. I have used it a few times. It is not
too difficult to learn to use it, and it works remarkably well.

Joe in Denver
My Woodworking Website:
www.the-wildings.com/shop/




"Tina" wrote in message
news:0LVZd.30438$Sn6.1434@lakeread03...
Delurk mode. I have a bunch of drill bits that are in need of sharpening,
do
the most of you wooddorkers send them out for sharpening like for the TS
blades? or do you sharpen your own. I'm not talented enough to sharpen
them
myself and I won't buy that sharpening machine...looks like it doesn't do
a
great job, anyhoo...just want some input...I have a professional
sharpening
service local. I have to call them up to see if they do bits or not, they
do
ts blades,router bits...very good company and rep. Thanks for the input

Tina

I have one and wouldn't do without it. It's so easy even a 4 year old can
sharpen bits. And the bits come out as good as new. A little shorter though.

"Joe Wilding" wrote in message
news:1110981749.1289321478136eef61fe0f22efaf3e2f@t eranews...
A friend of mine has a Drill Doctor. I have used it a few times. It is not
too difficult to learn to use it, and it works remarkably well.

Joe in Denver
My Woodworking Website:
www.the-wildings.com/shop/




"Tina" wrote in message
news:0LVZd.30438$Sn6.1434@lakeread03...
Delurk mode. I have a bunch of drill bits that are in need of sharpening,
do
the most of you wooddorkers send them out for sharpening like for the TS
blades? or do you sharpen your own. I'm not talented enough to sharpen
them
myself and I won't buy that sharpening machine...looks like it doesn't do
a
great job, anyhoo...just want some input...I have a professional
sharpening
service local. I have to call them up to see if they do bits or not, they
do
ts blades,router bits...very good company and rep. Thanks for the input

Tina

Maverick wrote:
I have one and wouldn't do without it. It's so easy even a 4 year old can
sharpen bits. And the bits come out as good as new. A little shorter though.


Ditto. I farm out my saw blades to a local sharpening service. My drill bits
go through a Drill Doctor 300, for which I only paid $49.95 at Lowes about a
year ago. It does a fine job and is easy to learn.




--
Mortimer Schnerd, RN

VE

Drill Doctor...Drill Doctor....Drill Doctor....Drill Doctor....Shut up
and buy one!!!!I works great! Much better than sending them
out.
Mike

Highly recommended

The Complete Guide to Sharpening, Leonard Lee.

Sharpening skills and woodworking skills go together. It may be
better to replace the worn bits than have them professionally
sharpened, certainly cheaper to do them yourself.


On Wed, 16 Mar 2005 07:38:19 -0500, "Tina"
wrote:

Delurk mode. I have a bunch of drill bits that are in need of sharpening, do
the most of you wooddorkers send them out for sharpening like for the TS
blades? or do you sharpen your own. I'm not talented enough to sharpen them
myself and I won't buy that sharpening machine...looks like it doesn't do a
great job, anyhoo...just want some input...I have a professional sharpening
service local. I have to call them up to see if they do bits or not, they do
ts blades,router bits...very good company and rep. Thanks for the input

Tina

"Tina"
I have a bunch of drill bits that are in need of sharpening
I'm not talented enough to sharpen them
myself and I won't buy that sharpening machine.
Sniped

First, if they are brad-point, the Drill Doctor won't work.
Second, given your statements, the only other options are to
pay someone or buy new ones. (You can send your old ones to me)

Really, sharpening a standard drill bit only takes a few minutes and a
little practice.
Now that your are going to buy new ones anyway, practice with your old ones.
I'm sure that if you take a few old ones down to the local machine shop, an
old fart will
show you how to sharpen them up and get you started.

Dave

BTW - The Drill Doctor does work fine. I gave one to my dad and he likes
it. I however, still prefer the old (faster) way myself.



Posted Via Usenet.com Premium Usenet Newsgroup Services
----------------------------------------------------------
** SPEED ** RETENTION ** COMPLETION ** ANONYMITY **
----------------------------------------------------------
http://www.usenet.com

On Wed, 16 Mar 2005 07:38:19 -0500, "Tina" wrote:

Delurk mode. I have a bunch of drill bits that are in need of sharpening, do
the most of you wooddorkers send them out for sharpening like for the TS
blades? or do you sharpen your own. I'm not talented enough to sharpen them
myself and I won't buy that sharpening machine...looks like it doesn't do a
great job, anyhoo...just want some input...I have a professional sharpening
service local. I have to call them up to see if they do bits or not, they do
ts blades,router bits...very good company and rep. Thanks for the input

Tina



A friend that grew up in a machine shop showed me a neat tr9ick for sharpening
bits... it works for me and I can't sharpen a damned pocket knife.. lol

He took 2 large hex nuts and laid them on the bench next to each other, with the
flat "sides" touching... the angle formed between the nuts (keep your mind out
of the gutter, now) under the mating surfaces is the angle that the drill point
needs to be... using the side of a grinder wheel and practicing with a few old
bits, even I learned to put an edge on 'em..



mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

wrote in message
oups.com...
Drill Doctor...Drill Doctor....Drill Doctor....Drill Doctor....Shut up
and buy one!!!!I works great! Much better than sending them
out.
Mike


If you use a lot of twist drill I agree. I've not spent $50 on twist drills
in my life so far and probably won't in the rest of it. Now if it did
Forstner bits and brad point, I'd be interested.

On Wed, 16 Mar 2005 14:20:04 GMT, the inscrutable "Mortimer Schnerd,
RN" spake:

Maverick wrote:
I have one and wouldn't do without it. It's so easy even a 4 year old can
sharpen bits. And the bits come out as good as new. A little shorter though.


Ditto. I farm out my saw blades to a local sharpening service. My drill bits
go through a Drill Doctor 300, for which I only paid $49.95 at Lowes about a
year ago. It does a fine job and is easy to learn.

Does the DD do auger, forstner, or brad point bits yet?


-
Yea, though I walk through the valley of Minwax, I shall stain no Cherry.
http://diversify.com

"Tina" wrote in message
news:0LVZd.30438$Sn6.1434@lakeread03...


Delurk mode. I have a bunch of drill bits that are in need of sharpening,
do
the most of you wooddorkers send them out for sharpening like for the TS
blades? or do you sharpen your own. I'm not talented enough to sharpen
them

Me? I consider Twist Bits to be disposable. I pick up a set of Black and
Decker's from Wal*Mart once every other season for $6-$10. Others swear by
their Drill Doctor sharpeners.

Brad Points and Forstners?
I do not consider to be disposable -- yet.
But the Drill Doctor's won't sharpen those anyway yet.
So far mine are still sharp enough that I haven't had to make a decision.

On Wed, 16 Mar 2005 18:38:25 GMT, patrick conroy wrote:

"Tina" wrote in message
news:0LVZd.30438$Sn6.1434@lakeread03...


Delurk mode. I have a bunch of drill bits that are in need of sharpening,
do
the most of you wooddorkers send them out for sharpening like for the TS
blades? or do you sharpen your own. I'm not talented enough to sharpen
them

Me? I consider Twist Bits to be disposable. I pick up a set of Black and
Decker's from Wal*Mart once every other season for $6-$10. Others swear by
their Drill Doctor sharpeners.

I'm pleased with mine. I inherited a large quantity of good but neglected
tools a while back. When bits got dull, he bought a new one. That's
fine, but the good ones don't fill all the holes in the drill index, so...
It's reasonable for touching up anything more than say 1/8", and up to
about 1/2". Beyond that in either direction, no good.

Well I guess my next purchase will be the drill dr....and a book on learning
how to sharpen them on a grinder, (don't have one of those either but my
neighbor does) so I'll practice on her grinder and see what happens...I
stand corrected on the DR...you guys are a trip and I appreciate the
help...I get tired of buying new bits only cause mine need sharpening...I
don't have a money tree in my back yard! :-)

Tina
"Dave Hinz" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 16 Mar 2005 18:38:25 GMT, patrick conroy
wrote:

"Tina" wrote in message
news:0LVZd.30438$Sn6.1434@lakeread03...


Delurk mode. I have a bunch of drill bits that are in need of
sharpening,
do
the most of you wooddorkers send them out for sharpening like for the
TS
blades? or do you sharpen your own. I'm not talented enough to sharpen
them

Me? I consider Twist Bits to be disposable. I pick up a set of Black and
Decker's from Wal*Mart once every other season for $6-$10. Others swear
by
their Drill Doctor sharpeners.

I'm pleased with mine. I inherited a large quantity of good but neglected
tools a while back. When bits got dull, he bought a new one. That's
fine, but the good ones don't fill all the holes in the drill index, so...
It's reasonable for touching up anything more than say 1/8", and up to
about 1/2". Beyond that in either direction, no good.

On Wed, 16 Mar 2005 15:02:12 -0500, Tina wrote:
Well I guess my next purchase will be the drill dr....and a book on learning
how to sharpen them on a grinder, (don't have one of those either but my
neighbor does) so I'll practice on her grinder and see what happens...I
stand corrected on the DR...you guys are a trip and I appreciate the
help...I get tired of buying new bits only cause mine need sharpening...I
don't have a money tree in my back yard! :-)

It's really a decent machine for what it is. Most of my drilling is in
the range of sizes that it's good for, so I'm glad I have it. Mine came
with a videotape which I watched before using it, and then again after
I'd used it for a few weeks as a refresher.

Thanks dave....majority has spoken......now to get my garage (20x20) to look
more like a woodshop....(a work in progress)..it's getting there
slowly...next big purchase will be a dust collector....will need some advice
there also next month...stayed tuned in! Thanks gang!

Tina
"Dave Hinz" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 16 Mar 2005 15:02:12 -0500, Tina wrote:
Well I guess my next purchase will be the drill dr....and a book on
learning
how to sharpen them on a grinder, (don't have one of those either but my
neighbor does) so I'll practice on her grinder and see what happens...I
stand corrected on the DR...you guys are a trip and I appreciate the
help...I get tired of buying new bits only cause mine need
sharpening...I
don't have a money tree in my back yard! :-)

It's really a decent machine for what it is. Most of my drilling is in
the range of sizes that it's good for, so I'm glad I have it. Mine came
with a videotape which I watched before using it, and then again after
I'd used it for a few weeks as a refresher.

I think being able to sharpen bits by hand with a grinder is a really
useful skill. A drill gage doesn't cost much and makes it much easier
to get the angles equal, practice with one of your larger damaged bits
and compare to a good one till you can get it close. Once you
understand how the drill works and practice it really isn't that hard.
It's not as easy for tiny drill bits so start with a bigger one.


mac davis wrote:
... using the side of a grinder wheel and practicing with a few old
bits, even I learned to put an edge on 'em..


I've heard that it's bad to use the side of a regular grinding wheel as
they can break and fly apart with a lot of force. That said, I've done
it too, and haven't blown one up. But be careful, and its probably
better to use the face of the wheel.

Hope this helps, Eric

Will do curly....................thanks!
Tina
"curly" wrote in message
oups.com...
I think being able to sharpen bits by hand with a grinder is a really
useful skill. A drill gage doesn't cost much and makes it much easier
to get the angles equal, practice with one of your larger damaged bits
and compare to a good one till you can get it close. Once you
understand how the drill works and practice it really isn't that hard.
It's not as easy for tiny drill bits so start with a bigger one.


mac davis wrote:
... using the side of a grinder wheel and practicing with a few old
bits, even I learned to put an edge on 'em..


I've heard that it's bad to use the side of a regular grinding wheel as
they can break and fly apart with a lot of force. That said, I've done
it too, and haven't blown one up. But be careful, and its probably
better to use the face of the wheel.

Hope this helps, Eric

(Newbie apologising in advance for any breach of good manners in this
post)
I find it easier to sharpen brad points than normal twist bits.
If you take a good brad point to your switched OFF grinder and settle
the bit onto the right-hand edge of the wheel, so that the bit points
at your right hip (say, 10 degrees right and 15 degrees down) and
memorise that hand-body-grinder relationship, and then take a blunt
brad point and, with the grinder switched ON, touch the bit gently on
the wheel each side of the point in turn ( no twisting, turning or
rocking: move the bit in line with its long axis) you should find that
you have a good, sharp bit!
And if the bit was blunt, you wont make it any less useful.

"Limey Lurker" wrote in message
oups.com...
(Newbie apologising in advance for any breach of good manners in this
post)
I find it easier to sharpen brad points than normal twist bits.
If you take a good brad point to your switched OFF grinder and settle
the bit onto the right-hand edge of the wheel, so that the bit points
at your right hip (say, 10 degrees right and 15 degrees down) and
memorise that hand-body-grinder relationship, and then take a blunt
brad point and, with the grinder switched ON, touch the bit gently on
the wheel each side of the point in turn ( no twisting, turning or
rocking: move the bit in line with its long axis) you should find that
you have a good, sharp bit!
And if the bit was blunt, you wont make it any less useful.

Thanks Limey...I"ll give it a try.........
Tina

"Tina" wrote in message
news:af0_d.30485$Sn6.21258@lakeread03...
Well I guess my next purchase will be the drill dr....and a book on
learning
how to sharpen them on a grinder, (don't have one of those either but my
neighbor does) so I'll practice on her grinder and see what happens...I
stand corrected on the DR...you guys are a trip and I appreciate the
help...I get tired of buying new bits only cause mine need sharpening...I
don't have a money tree in my back yard! :-)


Develop the knack for sharpening the bits on the grinder and there's no need
to throw money away on a Drill DR. Find a local machine shop in your area
and stop in and ask the machinist to show you how to sharpen a drill bit on
a belt sander. You'll never be at a loss for a sharp bit again.

--

-Mike-

First time in a long time I've disagreed with Mike-

skip the drill doc. Learn to do it free hand. Start with a bigger
bit, get a gage, play with it some. It is not hard to learn. the
real little bits, I just toss those (or they break).

(Hey Mike, want me to show you how to sharpen them? Hahaha....)


-Dan V.


On 16 Mar 2005 07:04:06 -0800, wrote:

Drill Doctor...Drill Doctor....Drill Doctor....Drill Doctor....Shut up
and buy one!!!!I works great! Much better than sending them
out.
Mike

I do my regular twist bits by hand on my old grinder. Just takes a
little practice. I can't see well enough to do anything below a 3/16"
properly though. Just try to get the angles even & keep the point
centered.

I use a file on spade bits. I send out Forstner's to a pro, though. I
buy new brad points, but that's rare. - Jim

On Wed, 16 Mar 2005 08:31:58 -0800, mac davis wrote:

He took 2 large hex nuts and laid them on the bench next to each other, with the
flat "sides" touching... the angle formed between the nuts (keep your mind out
of the gutter, now) under the mating surfaces is the angle that the drill point
needs to be... using the side of a grinder wheel and practicing with a few old

The angle formed by two osculating hexagons is 120 degrees, whereas the
usual angle of twist bits is 118 degrees. Geometry aside, thanks
for sharing that cool tip. Certainly close enough for hand grinding.

--
"Keep your ass behind you"
vladimir a t mad {dot} scientist {dot} com

Tina you might want to check your local Sears, mine was
carrying the cheapest drill doctor for $30, takes bits up to
1/2", or call 1st.

--
Alex
cravdraa_at-yahoo_dot-com
not my site: http://www.e-sword.net/

Thanks for the replys....you all have given me alot to think about...I use
to have a friend that worked in a machine shop...but he passed away years
ago but he did hand sharpening as I remember and used a grinder also for
stuff..............I got to buy a grinder also...at lease the grinder has a
dule purpose...so I don't have to keep running down to my neighbors house to
borrow her grinder ;-)

Tina
"AAvK" wrote in message
news:Geb_d.12845$ZE5.8857@fed1read03...

Tina you might want to check your local Sears, mine was
carrying the cheapest drill doctor for $30, takes bits up to
1/2", or call 1st.

--
Alex
cravdraa_at-yahoo_dot-com
not my site: http://www.e-sword.net/

On Thu, 17 Mar 2005 06:02:19 -0500, the inscrutable "Tina"
spake:

Thanks for the replys....you all have given me alot to think about...I use
to have a friend that worked in a machine shop...but he passed away years
ago but he did hand sharpening as I remember and used a grinder also for
stuff..............I got to buy a grinder also...at lease the grinder has a
dule purpose...so I don't have to keep running down to my neighbors house to
borrow her grinder ;-)

Tina, find a 1" belt sander and you'll solve two problems at
once. First, you can grind your twist drill bits more safely
on the belt than the grinding wheel due to less heat being
generated by the belt. Second, you can sand edges of woodworking
pieces on the belt. My Delta 31-080 (_Black_ model, Keeter)
sander is probably the most used of any of my powah tools. Find
one for ~$85 at tool stores or $30 on sale at HF (without the
disc, $60 with) or less when they're on sale.

Alternatively, build one yourself. It's not hard. 135k links:
http://www.google.com/search?q=build+belt+sander


-
Yea, though I walk through the valley of Minwax, I shall stain no Cherry.
http://diversify.com

Tina:

Larry is right - and a belt grinder/sander is great for honing blades,
carving tools etc...
See below:



Larry Jaques wrote:
On Thu, 17 Mar 2005 06:02:19 -0500, the inscrutable "Tina"
spake:


Thanks for the replys....you all have given me alot to think about...I use
to have a friend that worked in a machine shop...but he passed away years
ago but he did hand sharpening as I remember and used a grinder also for
stuff..............I got to buy a grinder also...at lease the grinder has a
dule purpose...so I don't have to keep running down to my neighbors house to
borrow her grinder ;-)


Tina, find a 1" belt sander and you'll solve two problems at
once. First, you can grind your twist drill bits more safely
on the belt than the grinding wheel due to less heat being
generated by the belt. Second, you can sand edges of woodworking
pieces on the belt. My Delta 31-080 (_Black_ model, Keeter)
sander is probably the most used of any of my powah tools. Find
one for ~$85 at tool stores or $30 on sale at HF (without the
disc, $60 with) or less when they're on sale.

Alternatively, build one yourself. It's not hard. 135k links:
http://www.google.com/search?q=build+belt+sander


Never contemplated of doing drill bits on mine. I'll try it.
You can see mine set up below...
http://woodwork.pmccl.com/Business/i...shop/shop.html

Here is the specific Lee Valley Link.
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.a...84&cat=1,43072

The motor is a 1/3 HP 1760 RPM (single speed) furnace blower motor. $75
- $120 new depending on source. A few $$ at a flea market if you have
the time -- I usually don't. Bought mine at the local Home Hardware, and
one at Princess Auto.




-
Yea, though I walk through the valley of Minwax, I shall stain no Cherry.
http://diversify.com

good luck
--
Will
Occasional Techno-geek

"Mike Marlow"
Develop the knack for sharpening the bits on the grinder and there's no
need
to throw money away on a Drill DR. Find a local machine shop in your area
and stop in and ask the machinist to show you how to sharpen a drill bit
on
a belt sander. You'll never be at a loss for a sharp bit again.

Exactly what I said, except for using a belt sander. Using a belt sander to
sharpen drill bits seems odd. A belt can not be as accurate as a stone
wheeled grinder. I've worked in and around many machine shops and never met
a good machinist that sharpens bits on a belt.

Dave



Posted Via Usenet.com Premium Usenet Newsgroup Services
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http://www.usenet.com

I'll second (or 8th?) that. You can get a full twist drill set for 40-55. The
titanium looks nice, but doesn't really do anything for you. The reason is
that they don't come really sharp. Yes, they will drill holes, but so much
better after using the Drill Doctor. Once they are sharpened, the thin coating
is gone from the tip. Now, if you spent $220 for a full set, they'd not only
be tougher metal but would come sharp. For wood, however, the cheaper set has
lasted for years.
GerryG

On 16 Mar 2005 20:09:27 GMT, Dave Hinz wrote:

On Wed, 16 Mar 2005 15:02:12 -0500, Tina wrote:
Well I guess my next purchase will be the drill dr....and a book on learning
how to sharpen them on a grinder, (don't have one of those either but my
neighbor does) so I'll practice on her grinder and see what happens...I
stand corrected on the DR...you guys are a trip and I appreciate the
help...I get tired of buying new bits only cause mine need sharpening...I
don't have a money tree in my back yard! :-)

It's really a decent machine for what it is. Most of my drilling is in
the range of sizes that it's good for, so I'm glad I have it. Mine came
with a videotape which I watched before using it, and then again after
I'd used it for a few weeks as a refresher.

I went looking at grinder prices..Lowes Delta $129 nice one...but I don't
want to spend that kind of money...so off to HF I went and they had a combo
unit 8" wet and 6"dry grinder for $60 bucks...sold got it home and pluged it
in..turns on and the checkout lady threw in the extended warranty 15 months
for free $6 buck saving their...so I"m happy for now...I've got some oil
stones for my chisels and a guide for them also...I"ve sharpened sanding
files (made a chisel on one end of it) on the grinding wheel where I use to
work for trimming edge banding after it came thru the machine...it worked
nice...so I'll have to teach myself the drill
angles...practice..practice..and do it some more..........
Tina
"GerryG" wrote in message
...
I'll second (or 8th?) that. You can get a full twist drill set for 40-55.
The
titanium looks nice, but doesn't really do anything for you. The reason is
that they don't come really sharp. Yes, they will drill holes, but so much
better after using the Drill Doctor. Once they are sharpened, the thin
coating
is gone from the tip. Now, if you spent $220 for a full set, they'd not
only
be tougher metal but would come sharp. For wood, however, the cheaper set
has
lasted for years.
GerryG

On 16 Mar 2005 20:09:27 GMT, Dave Hinz wrote:

On Wed, 16 Mar 2005 15:02:12 -0500, Tina wrote:
Well I guess my next purchase will be the drill dr....and a book on
learning
how to sharpen them on a grinder, (don't have one of those either but
my
neighbor does) so I'll practice on her grinder and see what
happens...I
stand corrected on the DR...you guys are a trip and I appreciate the
help...I get tired of buying new bits only cause mine need
sharpening...I
don't have a money tree in my back yard! :-)

It's really a decent machine for what it is. Most of my drilling is in
the range of sizes that it's good for, so I'm glad I have it. Mine came
with a videotape which I watched before using it, and then again after
I'd used it for a few weeks as a refresher.

Some can do it well, and they may also sharpen chisels without a guide. IMO,
"learning" how to do it is only half the issue. For bits smaller than 1/4, it
gets more difficult, and there the Drill Doctor does a nice job. It's also
much faster (at least for me) when you have many to sharpen.

I've never been able to sharpen a chisel well without some kind of guide,
although I can cut dovetails with a saw pretty much by eye. I still remember
one machine shop where one old guy did all the sharpening, by eye and faster
and better than anybody else. He tried teaching me, but I never made it.

GerryG

On Wed, 16 Mar 2005 22:11:23 -0500, Dan Valleskey valleskey at comcast dot
net wrote:

First time in a long time I've disagreed with Mike-

skip the drill doc. Learn to do it free hand. Start with a bigger
bit, get a gage, play with it some. It is not hard to learn. the
real little bits, I just toss those (or they break).

(Hey Mike, want me to show you how to sharpen them? Hahaha....)


-Dan V.


On 16 Mar 2005 07:04:06 -0800, wrote:

Drill Doctor...Drill Doctor....Drill Doctor....Drill Doctor....Shut up
and buy one!!!!I works great! Much better than sending them
out.
Mike

On Thu, 17 Mar 2005 06:59:28 -0800, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Thu, 17 Mar 2005 06:02:19 -0500, the inscrutable "Tina"
spake:

Thanks for the replys....you all have given me alot to think about...I use
to have a friend that worked in a machine shop...but he passed away years
ago but he did hand sharpening as I remember and used a grinder also for
stuff..............I got to buy a grinder also...at lease the grinder has a
dule purpose...so I don't have to keep running down to my neighbors house to
borrow her grinder ;-)

Tina, find a 1" belt sander and you'll solve two problems at
once. First, you can grind your twist drill bits more safely
on the belt than the grinding wheel due to less heat being
generated by the belt. Second, you can sand edges of woodworking
pieces on the belt. My Delta 31-080 (_Black_ model, Keeter)
sander is probably the most used of any of my powah tools. Find
one for ~$85 at tool stores or $30 on sale at HF (without the
disc, $60 with) or less when they're on sale.

Alternatively, build one yourself. It's not hard. 135k links:
http://www.google.com/search?q=build+belt+sander


-
Yea, though I walk through the valley of Minwax, I shall stain no Cherry.
http://diversify.com
I moved to the 1-inch belt sander awhile ago. Don't use it for drill bits, but
I built a sliding guide with different angles and it's the fastest way I've
found for chisels and planes. I take nicks out on the ginder, then use the
belt to restore the bevel and sharpen. Then just final honing on high grit
flat paper.

And by setting the angle ala Leonard Lee's book, it's the absolute best and
fastest way to sharpen kitchen knives, leaving a nice tooth. That's the one
tool I've bought that SWMBO really appreciates.
GerryG

On Thu, 17 Mar 2005 10:09:53 -0500, the inscrutable WillR
spake:

Tina:

Larry is right - and a belt grinder/sander is great for honing blades,
carving tools etc...

No, no, no! GRINDING, not honing. And if you don't yet know the
difference, get Leonard Lee's book "The Complete Guide To Sharpening"
I suppose you could use a leather belt on one and actually hone
something, but that's purely overkill.


Never contemplated of doing drill bits on mine. I'll try it.
You can see mine set up below...
http://woodwork.pmccl.com/Business/i...shop/shop.html

It's easier on the 5" disc than the belt due to belt layering,
but it can be done if you hold it against the belt where it's
not backed up by a guide. I use 120 grit belts most often.


----------------------------------------------------------
Please return Stewardess to her original upright position.
--------------------------------------
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"Teamcasa" wrote in message
...
"Mike Marlow"
Develop the knack for sharpening the bits on the grinder and there's no
need
to throw money away on a Drill DR. Find a local machine shop in your
area
and stop in and ask the machinist to show you how to sharpen a drill bit
on
a belt sander. You'll never be at a loss for a sharp bit again.

Exactly what I said, except for using a belt sander. Using a belt sander
to
sharpen drill bits seems odd. A belt can not be as accurate as a stone
wheeled grinder. I've worked in and around many machine shops and never
met
a good machinist that sharpens bits on a belt.

Dave

I do mine on my grinder but the machinist that showed me how, showed me on
his belt. Worked just fine.
--

-Mike-

"GerryG" wrote in message
...
Some can do it well, and they may also sharpen chisels without a guide.
IMO,
"learning" how to do it is only half the issue. For bits smaller than 1/4,
it
gets more difficult, and there the Drill Doctor does a nice job. It's also
much faster (at least for me) when you have many to sharpen.

I can get smaller than 1/4 but not an awful lot smaller. Nothing below an
1/8th, for sure. But - those bits are so cheap, you just buy new ones.
They aren't even worth the time on a Drill DR, let alone the cost of a Drill
DR.


--

-Mike-

On Thu, 17 Mar 2005 07:52:47 -0800, the inscrutable "Teamcasa"
spake:

"Mike Marlow"
Develop the knack for sharpening the bits on the grinder and there's no
need
to throw money away on a Drill DR. Find a local machine shop in your area
and stop in and ask the machinist to show you how to sharpen a drill bit
on
a belt sander. You'll never be at a loss for a sharp bit again.

Exactly what I said, except for using a belt sander. Using a belt sander to
sharpen drill bits seems odd. A belt can not be as accurate as a stone
wheeled grinder. I've worked in and around many machine shops and never met
a good machinist that sharpens bits on a belt.

I haven't been in a machine shop for some time now, but when I visited
them weekly (in a past life as a wrench), none had belt sanders, at
least not that I can remember. Maybe that's why you never met one,
either.


----------------------------------------------------------
Please return Stewardess to her original upright position.
--------------------------------------
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"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
...
On Thu, 17 Mar 2005 07:52:47 -0800, the inscrutable "Teamcasa"
spake:



Exactly what I said, except for using a belt sander. Using a belt sander
to
sharpen drill bits seems odd. A belt can not be as accurate as a stone
wheeled grinder. I've worked in and around many machine shops and never
met
a good machinist that sharpens bits on a belt.

I haven't been in a machine shop for some time now, but when I visited
them weekly (in a past life as a wrench), none had belt sanders, at
least not that I can remember. Maybe that's why you never met one,
either.


It'd be my bad guys. Should not have said belt sander. Should have said
Stationary Belt Sander. Don't know about the machine shops you've been in
but like I said the guy who showed me how to sharpen drill bits showed me on
a Stationary Belt Sander. Come to think of it, I've seen them in other
machine shops as well. Maybe Larry just never noticed them in the shops he
was in.
--

-Mike-

I went looking at grinder prices..Lowes Delta $129 nice one...but I don't
want to spend that kind of money...so off to HF I went and they had a combo
unit 8" wet and 6"dry grinder for $60 bucks...sold got it home and pluged it
in..turns on and the checkout lady threw in the extended warranty 15 months
for free $6 buck saving their...so I"m happy for now...I've got some oil
stones for my chisels and a guide for them also...I"ve sharpened sanding
files (made a chisel on one end of it) on the grinding wheel where I use to
work for trimming edge banding after it came thru the machine...it worked
nice...so I'll have to teach myself the drill
angles...practice..practice..and do it some more..........
Tina


I suppose you bought this yellow one?
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=35098
I think that should be a good economical purchase, everything else with
a major name brand is made in China anyway. Good going.

But now, in order to sharpen bits easily you need a drill bit sharpening jig
that will work with the smaller faster wheel. It is like this one in the link
though I don't think I would get the Sears one,

http://www.sears.com/ / tools / search: 00925292000
(for the idea of what they look like)

General makes one that might be better and you could search:
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg...973910-5972627

Jig mounted, it holds the bit tip against the flat side of the wheel while
you turn it manualy, though you might need a finer grit wheel.

It's good to WOMEN into mechanics and woodworking, I always appreciate
that... hope you keep to it!

--
Alex
cravdraa_at-yahoo_dot-com
not my site: http://www.e-sword.net/

"AAvK" wrote in message
news:Gcq_d.18615$ZE5.4558@fed1read03...

I went looking at grinder prices..Lowes Delta $129 nice one...but I don't
want to spend that kind of money...so off to HF I went and they had a
combo
unit 8" wet and 6"dry grinder for $60 bucks...sold got it home and
pluged it
in..turns on and the checkout lady threw in the extended warranty 15
months
for free $6 buck saving their...so I"m happy for now...I've got some oil
stones for my chisels and a guide for them also...I"ve sharpened sanding
files (made a chisel on one end of it) on the grinding wheel where I use
to
work for trimming edge banding after it came thru the machine...it
worked
nice...so I'll have to teach myself the drill
angles...practice..practice..and do it some more..........
Tina


I suppose you bought this yellow one?
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=35098
I think that should be a good economical purchase, everything else with
a major name brand is made in China anyway. Good going.

But now, in order to sharpen bits easily you need a drill bit sharpening
jig
that will work with the smaller faster wheel. It is like this one in the
link
though I don't think I would get the Sears one,

http://www.sears.com/ / tools / search: 00925292000
(for the idea of what they look like)

General makes one that might be better and you could search:

http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg...973910-5972627

Jig mounted, it holds the bit tip against the flat side of the wheel while
you turn it manualy, though you might need a finer grit wheel.

It's good to WOMEN into mechanics and woodworking, I always appreciate
that... hope you keep to it!

--
Alex
cravdraa_at-yahoo_dot-com
not my site: http://www.e-sword.net/

Bingo...you found what I was looking for...thanks...I tried doing some
bits but got it all wrong...I think the holder will help me out a
bunch...thanks! Next in line will be a lighted magnifiyer that I can put
anywhere...my eyes are as sharp as they use to be when I was
younger....thanks for all the help!
Tina

"Tina" wrote in message
news:9yr_d.60$%d7.16@lakeread03...

Bingo...you found what I was looking for...thanks...I tried doing some
bits but got it all wrong...I think the holder will help me out a
bunch...thanks! Next in line will be a lighted magnifiyer that I can put
anywhere...my eyes are as sharp as they use to be when I was
younger....thanks for all the help!
Tina



Tina - most likely you can master the simple technique of sharpening a bit
with a little instruction and save yourself the cash for stuff like jigs,
etc. that you really don't need.

Try this... Take a nice new bit - maybe a 1/4 or somewhat larger.
Something that is big enough to see well but it need not be a monster bit.

Hold it in front of your grinding wheel - with the grinder shut off. Hold
it so that the drill bit is in this sort of orientation... / In other
words, it will point right and the back side should be lower than the point.
Lay the point of the bit onto the grinder wheel and look at the contact
point. You'll see that there is a definite contact surface that starts at
the land of the bit. Make the bit lay flat on that contact area. Now, by
simply raising your rear hand, observe how the bit remains in full contact
with the grinder, but you are moving the contact surface toward the very
point of the drill. Do this a few times, and observe that all you are doing
is raising the rear of the bit. Develop a little muscle memory in this
process. That action will sharpen one side of the bit. To sharpen the
other side, reverse and repeat. Most people try to emulate a pencil
sharpener, and that simply will not work. You are not trying to make a
pencil point, you are sharpening two cutting edges on the end of the bit.

It's a lot easier to do than it is to explain. Again - before you buy
anything, do yourself the favor of going to a machine shop and ask the
machinist to show you how to do it. You'll be surprised at how easy it is
to do.
--

-Mike-