Woodworking (rec.woodworking) Discussion forum covering all aspects of working with wood. All levels of expertise are encouraged to particiapte.

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
  #1   Report Post  
Mr Fixit eh
 
Posts: n/a
Default Contact Cement

I'm using contact cement to attach an 1/8 inch oak skin to face the
exposed sides of my new kitchen cabinets.

Is there any advantage of putting on a 'primer' coat and letting it dry
24 hours before putting on the final coat of contact cement?

Steve

  #2   Report Post  
Nicky
 
Posts: n/a
Default

If painted, or poly type finish, then sand with 80grit to 100grit. You're
looking to get rid of any gloss on the surface. Vacuum the surface, then use
a tack cloth, then use the contact cement. A smooth, clean surface is what
you're after.

No primer necessary, just prepare the substrate.



"Mr Fixit eh" wrote in message
oups.com...
I'm using contact cement to attach an 1/8 inch oak skin to face the
exposed sides of my new kitchen cabinets.

Is there any advantage of putting on a 'primer' coat and letting it dry
24 hours before putting on the final coat of contact cement?

Steve



  #3   Report Post  
Robatoy
 
Posts: n/a
Default

In article .com,
"Mr Fixit eh" wrote:

I'm using contact cement to attach an 1/8 inch oak skin to face the
exposed sides of my new kitchen cabinets.

Is there any advantage of putting on a 'primer' coat and letting it dry
24 hours before putting on the final coat of contact cement?

Steve


Yes, assuming it is put on thinned so it has an opportunity to soak in,
say in the case of MDF or plywood.
If it is scuffed (80 grit in a beltsander) melamine, it won't help.
  #4   Report Post  
Duane Bozarth
 
Posts: n/a
Default

Mr Fixit eh wrote:

I'm using contact cement to attach an 1/8 inch oak skin ...


That's not the right adhesive for the job...contact cement will not be
successful in the long run for the application. Been several letters to
editor in FWW over the last few years of veneer/finish failures after
using contact cement for veneer work.

Use a regular wood glue w/ perhaps a longer open time to provide more
spreading time.
  #5   Report Post  
Robatoy
 
Posts: n/a
Default

In article ,
Duane Bozarth wrote:

Mr Fixit eh wrote:

I'm using contact cement to attach an 1/8 inch oak skin ...


That's not the right adhesive for the job...contact cement will not be
successful in the long run for the application. Been several letters to
editor in FWW over the last few years of veneer/finish failures after
using contact cement for veneer work.

Use a regular wood glue w/ perhaps a longer open time to provide more
spreading time.


It would be okay to use if it was 1/8' ply. If using 1/8 solid wood, use
wood glue.


  #6   Report Post  
Duane Bozarth
 
Posts: n/a
Default

Robatoy wrote:

.... contact cement and (unspecified) veneer...

It would be okay to use if it was 1/8' ply. If using 1/8 solid wood, use
wood glue.


I'd still be nervous w/ contact cement for wood-to-wood...just isn't
it's purpose.
  #7   Report Post  
Robatoy
 
Posts: n/a
Default

In article ,
Duane Bozarth wrote:

Robatoy wrote:

... contact cement and (unspecified) veneer...

It would be okay to use if it was 1/8' ply. If using 1/8 solid wood, use
wood glue.


I'd still be nervous w/ contact cement for wood-to-wood...just isn't
it's purpose.


I agree that in general use it wouldn't be my first choice either. But
in the OP's application that method has worked great for me for 30
years...oh..and that is solvent based Contact Cement.

The contact cement that I have used for the last 6 years, is blown on
with an airless gun which comes with the BBQ-propane-sized tank. Few
volatiles and lots of solids. Not enough liquid to soak through.
Sticks like dogsnot to a screen door.
Take a look.
http://www.mcfaddens.com/Workshop/imperialspray.htm
And because it is airless, there is no overspray (you can miss,of
course) and it is very portable for job-site use.
  #8   Report Post  
Larry Jaques
 
Posts: n/a
Default

On Tue, 15 Mar 2005 09:09:22 -0600, the inscrutable Duane Bozarth
spake:

Mr Fixit eh wrote:

I'm using contact cement to attach an 1/8 inch oak skin ...


That's not the right adhesive for the job...contact cement will not be
successful in the long run for the application. Been several letters to
editor in FWW over the last few years of veneer/finish failures after
using contact cement for veneer work.

Use a regular wood glue w/ perhaps a longer open time to provide more
spreading time.


Either glue works fine. I contact cemented my luaun door skins on my
kitchen cabinets in '84 or so and they were holding fast through
Feb of 2002, when I moved out. Oh, I used solvent-based contact
cement and do so today. I've heard too many horror stories to try the
waterborne crap.


-
Yea, though I walk through the valley of Minwax, I shall stain no Cherry.
http://diversify.com
  #9   Report Post  
GerryG
 
Posts: n/a
Default

I'd say yes/no/maybe. Contact cement often works well, when-and-only-when it's
properly applied. But he has us guessing on the substrate here. Another issue
is the condition of the panels, their grain and their size. With large panels
that thick, you may have problems with contact cement if the grain is wild and
the panels are not sealed well, or maybe not. And if the substrate's wood and
some panels are large, and the cabinets already in place, it may be rather
difficult to use regular wood glue due to clamping issues, or maybe not. And
of course there's the warping due to any moisture applied to only one side,
which may be harder to deal with for 1/8 panels then for thinner laminate, or
maybe not.

About the only solid conclusion I can offer is that, when I tested them
side-by-side, the solvent-based contact cement is significantly stronger. I do
still use the water based stuff, but only on certain small jobs. I also
suspect that the solvent-based contact cement you used in '84 was better than
most stuff available today.

GerryG

On Tue, 15 Mar 2005 16:45:19 -0800, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Tue, 15 Mar 2005 09:09:22 -0600, the inscrutable Duane Bozarth
spake:

Mr Fixit eh wrote:

I'm using contact cement to attach an 1/8 inch oak skin ...


That's not the right adhesive for the job...contact cement will not be
successful in the long run for the application. Been several letters to
editor in FWW over the last few years of veneer/finish failures after
using contact cement for veneer work.

Use a regular wood glue w/ perhaps a longer open time to provide more
spreading time.


Either glue works fine. I contact cemented my luaun door skins on my
kitchen cabinets in '84 or so and they were holding fast through
Feb of 2002, when I moved out. Oh, I used solvent-based contact
cement and do so today. I've heard too many horror stories to try the
waterborne crap.


-
Yea, though I walk through the valley of Minwax, I shall stain no Cherry.
http://diversify.com

  #10   Report Post  
Mr Fixit eh
 
Posts: n/a
Default

Thanks for the replies so far.

This is a renovation project. The substrates are varied. I have a
couple of cabinets with unfaced particleboard. I have several of the
new ones that are melamine-faced particleboad. I have some endpanels
that are plywood.

I had picked up water-based contact cement. Am I reading correctly
that this is NOT a good product to use?

Because the cabinets are already mounted, I don't think that PVA wood
glue will work because there will be no way to apply clamping pressure
to most of the panels.

The reason I was asking about a primer coat of the contact cement is
that I've seen laminate unglue from kitchen upper cabinets where a
kettle boiled frequently. I'm thinking the steam was a bad think for
the glue, and I was thinking the primer coat would make a more solid
glue bond.

Steve



  #11   Report Post  
Robatoy
 
Posts: n/a
Default

In article .com,
"Mr Fixit eh" wrote:

Thanks for the replies so far.

This is a renovation project. The substrates are varied. I have a
couple of cabinets with unfaced particleboard. I have several of the
new ones that are melamine-faced particleboad. I have some endpanels
that are plywood.


It is absolutely okay to use contact cement with 1/8" plywood.
The melamine must be scuffed to give the adhesive some 'tooth'.
80 grit is the absolute minimum, 36 grit even better. You can scratch
the snot out of it with a rasp, the 1/8" plywood will not telegraph
irregulaties like that.

I had picked up water-based contact cement. Am I reading correctly
that this is NOT a good product to use?


There are but a few applications where water-based contact is worth
bothering with. Yours isn't one of them.... certainly not anywhere near
melamine, scuffed or not.


[snippered]

and I was thinking the primer coat would make a more solid
glue bond.


....and I think you are right, but not too thick. Too thick is almost as
bad as too thin....almost.
That is more a function of the heat than the water in steam. A heat gun
works great to remove laminate after it has been stuck on and needs to
be removed for whatever reason DAMHIKT.

When you apply contact cement by brush, make the strokes on each surface
go at 90 degrees from each other... then let it dry till it barely
leaves a fingerprint.... quite dry-ish, really. Use some dowels or
strips of a non-shedding material (NOT particle board) to keep the panel
away from the surface to be bonded. Once aligned, slowly remove the
'spacers' one-by-one.
Reply
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules

Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
contact cement for solid shelf edging igor Woodworking 10 November 22nd 04 01:18 PM
Contact cement removal ToolMiser Woodworking 15 September 30th 04 10:40 PM
contact cement question Mike in Mystic Woodworking 16 November 6th 03 06:31 PM
Applying contact cement BUB 209 Woodworking 16 November 5th 03 01:26 PM
what is contact cement? Sam UK diy 6 September 28th 03 12:28 AM


All times are GMT +1. The time now is 11:30 PM.

Powered by vBulletin® Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ©2004-2024 DIYbanter.
The comments are property of their posters.
 

About Us

"It's about DIY & home improvement"