If price were no object what would be the best table saw?

doc44 wrote:
If price were no object what would be the best table saw?


What ever costs $100 more than you are willing to spendG.


Lew

It was somewhere outside Barstow when "doc44"
wrote:

If price were no object what would be the best table saw?

Something like a Unisaw with all the trimmings.

You can easily spend more on commercial-grade saws. Even a couple of
grand buys you a separate scoring blade, which is an excellent feature
if you work sheetgoods all day. But these big-ticket machines get to
be pretty big pretty soon and they just won't _fit_ in the workshop of
the lucky lottery winner.

There are also features you can add that are useful for repeat
production work. But they're not much use if you're doing one-off
cuts, no matter how much you spend.

You can spend a lot of money on a saw, but it's probably not a good
idea to just spend it there.

okay lets narrow it a little
for the home workshop
not production work

"doc44" wrote in message
...
If price were no object what would be the best table saw?

If price were no object what would be the best table saw?


Old Oliver.
http://www.eaglemachinery-repair.com/
Online museum:
http://www.oldwwmachines.com/MfgIndex/Detail.asp?ID=609
The Oliver Locator:
http://www.oliverusedmachinery.com/welcome.html
Maybe new Oliver:
http://www.olivermachinery.net/ (company)

I ain't no expert, I get to work with it in adult ed. though. Awesome
equipment.

--
Alex
cravdraa_at-yahoo_dot-com
not my site: http://www.e-sword.net/

Well if you're a box maker (kitchen cabinet maker) a sliding table would
most likely fit the bill with a 10" was for solids. If you make furniture a
high end powermatic, general in a 12" size. If you're a carpenter a high
end portable saw like the bosch or dewalt. If you're a boat builder a
general or powermatic 10" And if you're a hobby wood butcher buy something
where the color compliments you eyes. So for green eyes I'd recommend a
green general. For brown eyes i'd go with powermatic mustard. For blue
eyes the delta gray maybe in your future...

"doc44" wrote in message
...
If price were no object what would be the best table saw?

Sure it can - if price is no object... Then build another shop
"Andy Dingley" wrote in message
But these big-ticket machines get to
be pretty big pretty soon and they just won't _fit_ in the workshop of
the lucky lottery winner.

If you're not talking specialty saw.....

Oliver 4040, available today, or Older Oliver's. This tank will run 24x7,
12", interchangeable arbors, ~500 lbs., very accurate.

Northfield also makes a sweet machine (#4 Saw?)


"doc44" wrote in message
...
If price were no object what would be the best table saw?

"doc44" wrote in message
If price were no object what would be the best table saw?


I'd have a hard time deciding between a Unisaw and a General 350.

"Edwin Pawlowski" wrote in news:TgsZd.9907$DW.7566
@newssvr17.news.prodigy.com:


"doc44" wrote in message
If price were no object what would be the best table saw?


I'd have a hard time deciding between a Unisaw and a General 350.




Either of those would do quite nicely. Just leave $4000 in the budget for
the big lathe, though. And a good bandsaw. And a vintage DJ-20.

It's not just about one tool.

Patriarch,
who bought a left-tilt Uni/Bies, because the local dealer had them on sale
when the bonus hit, and is not sorry at all with the choice.

"Nicky" wrote in message
...
If you're not talking specialty saw.....

Oliver 4040, available today, or Older Oliver's. This tank will run 24x7,
12", interchangeable arbors, ~500 lbs., very accurate.

Northfield also makes a sweet machine (#4 Saw?)

Is the Oliver really that light weight? The Northfield comes in 4 times
heavier at about 2,000 lbs for export shipping.

okay lets narrow it a little
for the home workshop
not production work


Okay, then I suggest Sawstop for safety and of what I have read to be
good quality, do a search here, for reports that have been recently posted:
http://groups-beta.google.com/group/rec.woodworking Folks have given
full length and in depth reports. And see the *videos* on the maker's site:
http://www.sawstop.com/

--
Alex
cravdraa_at-yahoo_dot-com
not my site: http://www.e-sword.net/

Oliver
Tannewitz
Northfield
Martin

Just four that come to mind this early in the morning and
not in any order of good to best.

If you want to tweek/expand the list you could easily add
Felder or Hamer.

We could go on but there are baths to be taken and only so
much time.

UA100

"Unisaw A-100" wrote in message

If you want to tweek/expand the list you could easily add
Felder or Hamer.

We could go on but there are baths to be taken and only so
much time.

I was thinking of some European stuff. Like Griggio for an example. The
site below has a wealth of stuff listed. Canadian supplier too.
http://mypage.uniserve.ca/~kristech/page2.htm

~ I'll just get dirty again so there's no reason to take a bath.

On Mon, 14 Mar 2005 21:05:20 -0500, the inscrutable "doc44"
spake:

If price were no object what would be the best table saw?

After seeing one in use (and if I had triple the shop size I do now) a
new Altendorf would be my choice. http://www.altendorfamerica.com/

In the real world, I'll move up to a Griz 1023 next.

And the best part is: They DON'T come in gray!


--
I speak 2 languages fluently: English and foul.
---------------------------
http://diversify.com Mostly cuss-free Websites

On Mon, 14 Mar 2005 22:20:36 -0600, Patriarch
wrote:

SNIP

It's not just about one tool.

Patriarch,

Hell you say! It IS and has ALWAYS been about one tool .....


oh, you were talking about the shop....

AAvK wrote:
: Old Oliver.
: http://www.eaglemachinery-repair.com/


These guys list two lathes, one with 12" capacity, one with 14", with
a 1 HP motor. They start in the $3400 range.

That same amount would buy some of the heaviest duty lathes now made
(Stubby, Oneway), which have 3HP and up motors. What makes the Oliver
units appealing? Is it just rarity?

-- Andy Barss

Andrew Barss wrote:
: AAvK wrote:
: : Old Oliver.
: : http://www.eaglemachinery-repair.com/


: These guys list two lathes, one with 12" capacity, one with 14", with
: a 1 HP motor. They start in the $3400 range.

: That same amount would buy some of the heaviest duty lathes now made
: (Stubby, Oneway), which have 3HP and up motors. What makes the Oliver
: units appealing? Is it just rarity?


Took a closerlook: the Oliver lathes are metal lathes, not woodturning.

Nevah mind.

-- Andy Barss

I would choose the Yates G89 Variety saw. You can have it with a cast iron
sliding table and two motors/ arbors with a rotating mechanism so the blades
are always ready to go, you don't have to change them.
max


"doc44" wrote in message
If price were no object what would be the best table saw?


I'd have a hard time deciding between a Unisaw and a General 350.

Andrew Barss wrote:
These guys list two lathes, one with 12" capacity, one with 14", with
a 1 HP motor. They start in the $3400 range.

That same amount would buy some of the heaviest duty lathes now made
(Stubby, Oneway), which have 3HP and up motors. What makes the Oliver
units appealing? Is it just rarity?


As you have figured out already the sliding carriage makes
those a metal lathe but they are nearly identical to my No.
159M which actually was once upon a time a metal spinner and
only different from a wood turner because it was shipped
with a different tool rest and spinning tools. I think the
No. 159's were selling somewhere around $3000(ish) when
Oliver stopped production.

The Olivers were (are) boy-proof meaning you can drop one in
a school shop and it will survive. They still suffer from
"Lost Parts Syndrome" where the tail stocks and the tool
rest sockets up and walk off but there isn't a whole lot
else you can do to one to hurt it. OK, the beds used as
anvils will divot like any good machine but that's to be
expected from a school shop machine.

As for worth, they are all cast iron (right down to the
A-frame legs) and Reeves drives and good motors tend to
drive prices up a wee bit. Frankly my question would be
"why are the current crop of lathes (Stubby/Oneway/etc.)
worth what they are worth?". Don't get me wrong, they are
indeed some of the best lathes this world has seen but...

Not meant to incite, just thinking that a collection of
steel all welded together might come in a little less
expensive than somewhere in the multiple-thousand dollar
range.

Keith Bohn, who gave $35 for his Oliver but that was because
everyone at the auction went brain dead at the same time
because a Standard-Duty Delta sold next and it went for
multiple-hunnerts of dollars and was missing the tail
stock...

On Tue, 15 Mar 2005 02:45:01 GMT, "mat"
wrote:

Well if you're a box maker (kitchen cabinet maker) a sliding table would
most likely fit the bill with a 10" was for solids. If you make furniture a
high end powermatic, general in a 12" size. If you're a carpenter a high
end portable saw like the bosch or dewalt. If you're a boat builder a
general or powermatic 10" And if you're a hobby wood butcher buy something
where the color compliments you eyes. So for green eyes I'd recommend a
green general. For brown eyes i'd go with powermatic mustard. For blue
eyes the delta gray maybe in your future...

Ahh. I knew it was some sort of karma that I got a Delta Unisawr
rather 'n sumptin' else. Now I know twas my blue eyes. :-)

Renata


"doc44" wrote in message
...
If price were no object what would be the best table saw?

And if you're a hobby wood butcher buy something
where the color compliments you eyes. So for green eyes I'd
recommend a
green general. For brown eyes i'd go with powermatic mustard. For
blue
eyes the delta gray maybe in your future...

Ahh. I knew it was some sort of karma that I got a Delta Unisawr
rather 'n sumptin' else. Now I know twas my blue eyes. :-)

Renata


I have brown eyes and a green Powermatic. Does that mean I clash?

wrote:
And if you're a hobby wood butcher buy something

where the color compliments you eyes. So for green eyes I'd

recommend a

green general. For brown eyes i'd go with powermatic mustard. For

blue

eyes the delta gray maybe in your future...

Ahh. I knew it was some sort of karma that I got a Delta Unisawr
rather 'n sumptin' else. Now I know twas my blue eyes. :-)

Renata



I have brown eyes and a green Powermatic. Does that mean I clash?

My Powermatic and back streak are both yellow. Score! :-)
j4

Patriarch wrote:
"Edwin Pawlowski" wrote in news:TgsZd.9907$DW.7566
@newssvr17.news.prodigy.com:


"doc44" wrote in message
If price were no object what would be the best table saw?


I'd have a hard time deciding between a Unisaw and a General 350.




Either of those would do quite nicely. Just leave $4000 in the
budget for
the big lathe, though. And a good bandsaw. And a vintage DJ-20.

It's not just about one tool.

Patriarch,
who bought a left-tilt Uni/Bies, because the local dealer had them on
sale
when the bonus hit, and is not sorry at all with the choice.

What's special about "a vintage DJ-20"?

(FWIW, have a rooting interest as am owner of 1980's DJ-15.)

ray

Unisaw A-100 wrote:

: As for worth, they are all cast iron (right down to the
: A-frame legs) and Reeves drives and good motors tend to
: drive prices up a wee bit. Frankly my question would be
: "why are the current crop of lathes (Stubby/Oneway/etc.)
: worth what they are worth?". Don't get me wrong, they are
: indeed some of the best lathes this world has seen but...

: Not meant to incite, just thinking that a collection of
: steel all welded together might come in a little less
: expensive than somewhere in the multiple-thousand dollar
: range.


Fair question -- I haven't turned on anything like a Stubby or Oneway.
The Stubby has a whole lotta cast iron, and a really
clever reconfigurable bed, which is pretty cool. People who turn on
them and the other big $$ lathes say they're worth it, but I've seen
a lot of turners lust for one just because they're expensive and have a
high-end reputation.

I have a Nova, with heavy cast iron legs, 1.5 HP variable speed
motor, and I think it's a great lathe. Lots of Nova turners want
to upgrade to the DVR, and some DVR owners want to upgrade to a Stubby
or Oneway ... If I were turning 30" diameter bowls, I'd get me one of
them, but I have no reason to turn anything that big (nor do I have easy
access to wood that big, being in the middle of the Sonoran Desert).\

I was wrong on the pricing -- just looked it up, and the smallr stubby
goes for close to five grand, sans shipping. I imagine the big
increase in the cost of cast iron has driven up the price. The cast iron
legs for the Nova 1000 are no longer being made, as their manufacturing
cost more than doubled.

-- Andy Barss

Altendorf F45 would be my choice... If I had the room and the floor to
support it.
Our shop just bought a new one and it is some kind of sweet to use.
http://www.altendorfamerica.com/equi.../f45/index.htm

CC


"doc44" wrote in message
...
If price were no object what would be the best table saw?

doc44 wrote:
If price were no object what would be the best table saw?

If you are looking for a new straight table saw I would suggest the
Northfield as they are the only ones left of the biggies of the 40's
and 50's made totally in America. If used is your thing I would suggest
the Tannewitz as I think that it was the Cadillac of all USA made saws.
The engineering and quality is unsurpassed. The Northfield new runs
around $10,000 to $12,000 give or take. An old Tannewitz can be bought
anywhere from about $2500. to $8000. depending on model, condition and
type.
I own a late model XJ that would sell now for about $6000. as I
reconditioned it. Perfect saw for general millwork and cabinet making
shops. 5hp, direct drive, 3phase, 16" saw diameter and weighs about
1650lbs. Tannewitz has not made these saws since about the mid 80's due
to stupid law suits. They don't even like talking about them when you
call them. No parts are available there any longer but the fact is
that if you do want a Tannewitz and buy one in good condition chances
are you'll never need any parts in your lifetime or your grandson's
either.
All motors are removble and can be completely overhauled to run like
new. That's about the only thing that most of the older saws will ever
need. Parts can be made by local machinests if you ever needed it.

Cheers

For solid wood, Inca's model 2100/2200.