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Electric Stu
 
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Default Unisaw/Biesemeyer 50" Extension Table Question

Having finally gotten my new 36-L31X-BC50 Delta cabinet saw onto its
mobile base, I began the assembly process.

As many of you know, the X5 tablesaw has comes with "free accessories"
including (as listed on Delta's website):

3 HP Left Tilt Unisaw with Biesemeyer Fence (36-L31X-BC50)
$292.02 Value

-Universal Tableboard for 50² System (78-852)
-Carbide Toothed Blade (35-617)
-Cast Iron Wing (36-937)

The Biesemeyer extension table measures 44" in length. The distance
from the blade to the edge of the cast iron table top is 10". The cast
iron wing (on the right side) measures 10" wide. Assuming I mount the
right cast wing, the distance from the blade to the far edge of the
extension table is 64", certainly more than 50" or 52".

In photos on Delta's site, the extension table is shown with the right
cast iron wing, although the extension table seems shorter than 44". In
the Biesemeyer installation manual that came with the fence, some
photos show the extension table mounted WITH the right wing and some
show it WITHOUT it. There is no specific mention of whether the right
cast wing should be used or not.

Images show the tubular steel guide tube extending about 6" beyond the
far end of the extension table, but if I install the right cast wing,
it will be short of the end of the extension table.

Before I start assembling this incorrectly (probably can't do any harm
either way), can anyone relate their own experiences with this issue
and/or sugggestions?

An additional question relates to an apparent inability to bolt the
extension table to the cast iron top (or wing), since the extension
table frame is "open" on this side (i.e., frame is only on three sides,
not four) and there would be no place to place bolts (although there
are certainly threaded holes in the cast iron in this location).

Thanks in advance for your help.

Stu
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Tom
 
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The Delta/Biesmeyer directions don't provide a lot of guidance here!
You can mount it with or without the right-side cast iron wing extension,
your choice. I chose to use the wing, so ended up with the longer total
table size, but find it convenient.

If you choose to use the wing, then the table legs will mount slightly
differently
than the directions, but there's another wooden cross-member under the table
in just the right place.

There is no need to bolt the table to the extension wing itself. I used some
1x4
pine temporarily clamped to the bottom of the steel angle brackets with some
small C-clamps to hold the table in place while drilling the mounting holes
in the
table.

-- Tom




"Electric Stu" wrote in message
nk.net...
Having finally gotten my new 36-L31X-BC50 Delta cabinet saw onto its
mobile base, I began the assembly process.

As many of you know, the X5 tablesaw has comes with "free accessories"
including (as listed on Delta's website):

3 HP Left Tilt Unisaw with Biesemeyer Fence (36-L31X-BC50)
$292.02 Value

-Universal Tableboard for 50² System (78-852)
-Carbide Toothed Blade (35-617)
-Cast Iron Wing (36-937)

The Biesemeyer extension table measures 44" in length. The distance
from the blade to the edge of the cast iron table top is 10". The cast
iron wing (on the right side) measures 10" wide. Assuming I mount the
right cast wing, the distance from the blade to the far edge of the
extension table is 64", certainly more than 50" or 52".

In photos on Delta's site, the extension table is shown with the right
cast iron wing, although the extension table seems shorter than 44". In
the Biesemeyer installation manual that came with the fence, some
photos show the extension table mounted WITH the right wing and some
show it WITHOUT it. There is no specific mention of whether the right
cast wing should be used or not.

Images show the tubular steel guide tube extending about 6" beyond the
far end of the extension table, but if I install the right cast wing,
it will be short of the end of the extension table.

Before I start assembling this incorrectly (probably can't do any harm
either way), can anyone relate their own experiences with this issue
and/or sugggestions?

An additional question relates to an apparent inability to bolt the
extension table to the cast iron top (or wing), since the extension
table frame is "open" on this side (i.e., frame is only on three sides,
not four) and there would be no place to place bolts (although there
are certainly threaded holes in the cast iron in this location).

Thanks in advance for your help.

Stu




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Phillip Hallam-Baker
 
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The extension table attaches to the rails of the fence. It is not
necessary to attach it to the wing. Getting the thing level with the
wing on the other hand is a pain. If it is not completely right the
fence will clank every time it goes over the bump and you have to take
the fence guide rail off to fix it.

You definitely want the cast iron wing, whether you want the extension
table as anything more than stiffner for the fence rails is another
issue. As far as I can make out the only use for the extension table is
when dealling with really big chunks of plywood. I use a circular saw
for those cuts.

The wing on the other hand is pretty useful because it gives you
another 12" width to what is almost certainly the largest surface area
in your shop that is really flat.

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Chuck
 
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Congratulations on a great saw, Stu. Use the wing!

I too had to fiddle quite a bit to get the extension table in the same
plane as the cast iron top, but it can be done. Make sure to place the
legs under the table and mark *before* screwing them in--placement isn't
intuitive using the 50" extension. (The installation guide points this
out, and it's good advice.)

One watchout, however: after I leveled the extension with the cast iron
top, I raised the mobile base up for movement. I noticed that this
action caused the extension table to lose it's level (the table's leg
levelers were flush agains the mobile base, and the end of the table
pushed up the legs, causing the interface between the table and the cast
iron wing to slip about 1/16"). Make sure the mobile base doesn't
affect the table level when you raise/lower it.

Chuck
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Roy Smith
 
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Chuck wrote:
I too had to fiddle quite a bit to get the extension table in the same
plane as the cast iron top, but it can be done.


Assemble the table to the wing with the bolts just snug, but not fully
tightened up yet.

Take a straight piece of wood about 2 feet long (a 2x4 with one wide face
jointed flat would work just fine) and lay it along the front edge of the
table, overlapping the joint. Clamp it to the cast iron wing with a couple
of C-clamps. Do the same for the extension. Repeat the whole deal along
the rear edge of the table.

You have now just forced the table joint into perfect alignment. Tighten
up the bolts holding the extension to the cast top, remove the clamps, and
you're all set.


  #6   Report Post  
Patriarch
 
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Chuck wrote in
ews.com:

snip
One watchout, however: after I leveled the extension with the cast
iron top, I raised the mobile base up for movement. I noticed that
this action caused the extension table to lose it's level (the table's
leg levelers were flush agains the mobile base, and the end of the
table pushed up the legs, causing the interface between the table and
the cast iron wing to slip about 1/16"). Make sure the mobile base
doesn't affect the table level when you raise/lower it.


This side table adjustment is the one that I probably three or four times
per year. I slide my saw right and left, unfortunately across an expansion
gap in the floor of what the planners described as a garage (how short-
sighted!) Maybe I should fill that gap in just a 20" section...

I hope you enjoy your new saw as much as I do mine.

Patriarch
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Bob G.
 
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I do use the 50 inch Biesmeyer fence on my saw...
A right tilt Jet ..not a left tilt Delta...but the mounting procedure
is the same...

USE THE CAST IRON WING....

Now the table extension (in my case birch plywood) is NOT bolted to
the wing at all... it is bolted only to the rails...front and rear...
I also shifted my rails to the left about a foot to allow me to make
those treaded miter rips on the left side of my blade..when needed...
not for safty reasons...but to stop splintering on the visible edge of
the miter... this reduces my normal rip compacity to about 48 inches
to the right of my blade...not a problem for me YET in almost 15 years
with this configuration...

The ONLY thing you may have problems with is getting the top edge of
the extention table perfectly flat with the cast Iron wing and
tabletop of you saw.. a few shims may be needed but nothing really
hard... Like I said my extension table is completely home built but
it went together real easily... if you had the need for a Cabinet saw
then I have to assume you could make your own without the slightest
trouble...

Enjoy the Saw....& Congradulations...

Bob Griffiths

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