www.benchdog.com/Products/ProLift/ProLiftMAX.htm

www.jessem.com/mast_r_lift.htm

www.jointech.com/smartliftdigital.htm

www.woodpeck.com/precisionrouterlift.html


I never had a router plate or table before, just a thought in mind...
Does or can the plate move or tip during use? I can understand the weight
is heavy enough for the gravity to hold the plate down "tight" but tight
enough or am I being agitation (LOL). The WookPecker (4th link above) has
"two spring loaded ball bearing plungers" on the sides, just for
marketing sake?

Would the JessEm Mast-R-Lift Excel (www.jessem.com/mast_r_lift_excel.htm)
be same as ones with lift-plate tabletops? Would I better off with lift-
plates becuase in future when I make a new router table, I can just
simply transfer the plate?

Please comment and thank you.

Chuck

CNT wrote in :

www.benchdog.com/Products/ProLift/ProLiftMAX.htm

www.jessem.com/mast_r_lift.htm

www.jointech.com/smartliftdigital.htm

www.woodpeck.com/precisionrouterlift.html


I never had a router plate or table before, just a thought in mind...
Does or can the plate move or tip during use? I can understand the
weight is heavy enough for the gravity to hold the plate down "tight"
but tight enough or am I being agitation (LOL). The WookPecker (4th
link above) has "two spring loaded ball bearing plungers" on the
sides, just for marketing sake?

Would the JessEm Mast-R-Lift Excel
(www.jessem.com/mast_r_lift_excel.htm) be same as ones with lift-plate
tabletops? Would I better off with lift- plates becuase in future when
I make a new router table, I can just simply transfer the plate?

Please comment and thank you.

Chuck


You ask about plates, and cite references to lifts. The two need not go
together.

I have a Woodpecker's plate, with a plunge router in it. The spring
loaded ball bearing plungers are on the edges of the plate, and help
keep it centered in the recess, side to side.

All of these companies make excellent products. Whether you need that
much router table gear is a question I can't answer.

Patriarch

"CNT" wrote in message
...

Snip


I never had a router plate or table before, just a thought in mind...
Does or can the plate move or tip during use?

Typically, NO, they do not. That said however it depends greatly on how
flat the supporting layer of the table that keeps the plate from falling
through, is. The plate is not going to fall through the hole but if the
surface supporting the plate is not flat the plate could rock. Bench Dog
router table tops support the plate with 10 or so screws that level the
plate. These screws enable you to adjust for use of different brand or
thickness plates. If a couple of the screws are adjusted higher than the
other screws the plate could rock.


I can understand the weight
is heavy enough for the gravity to hold the plate down "tight" but tight
enough or am I being agitation (LOL). The WookPecker (4th link above) has
"two spring loaded ball bearing plungers" on the sides, just for
marketing sake?

IMHO "Router Lifts" are going to become a thing of the past. Most
manufacturers today are making routers with their own lifts built in.
Bosch, Milwaukee, Triton, and Porter Cable to name a few build routers that
are designed to hang in a router table and can be easily adjusted.
Typically thes routers can be bought for the same price or much less than
the cost of a router lift. Then all you would need to buy or build is a
simple flat plate to mount any of these router to.

BTY Chuck, are you the same Chuck that used to participate here 4 or 5 years
ago?

Totally agree that router lifts look to unnecessary now - you can
purchase a top end router with built in lift for the price of these
lifts. My thought is to make the router table top out of 2 sheets of
3/4" MDF, build a plate out of 1/4" or 3/8" aluminum plate and
countersink the plate into the MDF.

What is the problem of just having a 3 1/2" hole in the router plate
for the bit to stick through - even when using much smaller bits? I
suppose I could make a reducer out of the stock I cut out.

I would make the plate oversized by at least 4" larger then the hole
cut through the 2 sheets of MDF to accomodate the router. Given the
weight of a Milwaukee 3.5 HP router and the plate - I don't think this
thing would need to be bolted in - assuming I get the plate to fit very
snugly into the top sheet of MDF.

Thanks

"butch" wrote in message
oups.com...
Totally agree that router lifts look to unnecessary now - you can
purchase a top end router with built in lift for the price of these
lifts. My thought is to make the router table top out of 2 sheets of
3/4" MDF, build a plate out of 1/4" or 3/8" aluminum plate and
countersink the plate into the MDF.

What is the problem of just having a 3 1/2" hole in the router plate
for the bit to stick through - even when using much smaller bits? I
suppose I could make a reducer out of the stock I cut out.

If you route short pieces like the ends of short rails, the big hole does
not give much support. If you can easily drop in a spacer that would be OK
providing you can secure the spacer properly.


I would make the plate oversized by at least 4" larger then the hole
cut through the 2 sheets of MDF to accomodate the router. Given the
weight of a Milwaukee 3.5 HP router and the plate - I don't think this
thing would need to be bolted in - assuming I get the plate to fit very
snugly into the top sheet of MDF.

Thanks

"butch" wrote in message
What is the problem of just having a 3 1/2" hole in the router plate
for the bit to stick through - even when using much smaller bits? I
suppose I could make a reducer out of the stock I cut out.



Large hole for use with a small bit. Same reason we use zero clearance
inserts on the tablesaw, less clearance is better for router bits also. If
you were routing a thin molding you could flex it as it goes over the bit.

Otherwise, you plan of a cutout in thick MDF should work. Downside is for
routes that must be removed for bit changing as lifting hte plate out makes
it simple.

"CNT" wrote in message
...


www.benchdog.com/Products/ProLift/ProLiftMAX.htm

www.jessem.com/mast_r_lift.htm

www.jointech.com/smartliftdigital.htm

www.woodpeck.com/precisionrouterlift.html


I never had a router plate or table before, just a thought in mind...

Those are lifts, in my vernacular. I'd say this is a "plate":
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.a...=1,43000,51208

I have this one:
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg...12065?v=glance

No, they should neither tip nor move. I carefully cut a recess in the MDF
top so the plate fit snugly.

Interesting... Could you point where you talking about? I do see "router
lifts" with PC motor in as one sale deal (but still two price together).
What that means "routers with their own lifts built in"? I am interested.

IMHO "Router Lifts" are going to become a thing of the past. Most
manufacturers today are making routers with their own lifts built in.
Bosch, Milwaukee, Triton, and Porter Cable to name a few build
routers that are designed to hang in a router table and can be easily
adjusted. Typically thes routers can be bought for the same price or
much less than the cost of a router lift. Then all you would need to
buy or build is a simple flat plate to mount any of these router to.

Yeap, that's me. I still remember you! You taught me a lot about
sandpapers and wood finishes. Since I stop involving in this NG, I bought
JET bandsaw and JET drill press I just haven't had the time to do that
much woodworking due college for my BA and I cut my thumb replacing a
window.

BTY Chuck, are you the same Chuck that used to participate here 4 or 5
years ago?

Chuck

You mean like the JessEm Mast-R-Lift Excel??
www.jessem.com/mast_r_lift_excel.htm ??

IMHO "Router Lifts" are going to become a thing of the past. Most
manufacturers today are making routers with their own lifts built in.

"CNT" wrote in message
...
Interesting... Could you point where you talking about? I do see "router
lifts" with PC motor in as one sale deal (but still two price together).
What that means "routers with their own lifts built in"? I am interested.

Take the Triton router for instance. It has has the capability of working
like a fixed base or a plunge base router with out changing bases. It is
designed to be used right side up or upside down under a router table. You
remove the spring that helps counter act the weight when plunging. From
there you turn a knob for coarse height adjustments and turn another smaller
dial that makes fine tune adjustments. You can also raise the router high
enough through the table top to change bits with out removing the router.
When the collet is raised through the top of the table for bit changes the
collet locks and will not turn.

The Triton is kinda ungly and strange looking but it works great. I have
had one fo r about 8 months now. Other top brands share some of the
features that the Triton has.

Take a look here http://www.triton.net.au/products/router_2.html


Yeap, that's me. I still remember you! You taught me a lot about
sandpapers and wood finishes. Since I stop involving in this NG, I bought
JET bandsaw and JET drill press I just haven't had the time to do that
much woodworking due college for my BA and I cut my thumb replacing a
window.

Cool, Chuck, good to hear from you again. Koodo's to you going back to
school.

Oh, you mean PLUNGE ROUTERs? I understand plunge router are like two things
in one unit. I was referring to PLATE-LIFT (I do not know what exactly
those are called). I was looking at instead of reaching underneath to do
whatever, it all can be done from the top. If I wanted to adjust from
underneath, I would just buy a fixed plate and attach the PC base and turn
the motor to adjust (and save a lot more money by buying the plain vanilla
fixed plate).

I just want to start off with a good router table and use it as long I
like. I don't like to buy something (like a fixed plate) and then later
wishing I had bought the plate-lift.

It was just little startling when you said those plate-lifts are be
considering of "old" already. I am not saying like wishing I should have
the silding miter saw, I love my fixed miter saw.

Another question... how high (normally) router tables are? I am trying to
see if I should make it level with the table saw or the miter sam? I have
the miter saw on top of my RAS, so it's little high but I like it as it's
been fine all along. Just when I get to make a new shop after I move, then
I will make a workbench same height as tablesaw and whatever else around in
the shop.

Chuck

Take the Triton router for instance. It has has the capability of
working like a fixed base or a plunge base router with out changing
bases.

Take a look here http://www.triton.net.au/products/router_2.html

"CNT" wrote in message
...
Oh, you mean PLUNGE ROUTERs? I understand plunge router are like two
things
in one unit. I was referring to PLATE-LIFT (I do not know what exactly
those are called). I was looking at instead of reaching underneath to do
whatever, it all can be done from the top. If I wanted to adjust from
underneath, I would just buy a fixed plate and attach the PC base and turn
the motor to adjust (and save a lot more money by buying the plain vanilla
fixed plate).

Some of the new router can be adjusted from the top. Tritona nd now PC has
one. I h ave no idea how well they work as I've never seen one. I like
using my drill to run the router up and down on the lift for bit changes,
but I use a speed wrench for the fine adjustments.


It was just little startling when you said those plate-lifts are be
considering of "old" already. I am not saying like wishing I should have
the silding miter saw, I love my fixed miter saw.

Hew meant that the new routes are adjustable from the top, just like using
an expensive lift. Again, I don't know if they are as good, as fast, etc.,
but they are worth looking into.



Another question... how high (normally) router tables are? I am trying to
see if I should make it level with the table saw or the miter sam? I have
the miter saw on top of my RAS, so it's little high but I like it as it's
been fine all along. Just when I get to make a new shop after I move, then
I will make a workbench same height as tablesaw and whatever else around
in
the shop.

My router table is 1/4" higher than my workbench. they sit side by side. I
want to be sure if I'm passing a long piece of wood over the router that I
won't hit the bench. If I had it to the rear of my tablesaw, I'd probably
witgn it 1/4" lower to use as an outfeed table also. Choice is yours but
they should probably be near in height.
--
Ed
http://pages.cthome.net/edhome/

On Fri, 04 Mar 2005 00:05:27 -0000, CNT wrote:


Another question... how high (normally) router tables are? I am trying to
see if I should make it level with the table saw or the miter sam? I have
the miter saw on top of my RAS, so it's little high but I like it as it's
been fine all along. Just when I get to make a new shop after I move, then
I will make a workbench same height as tablesaw and whatever else around in
the shop.

Chuck


it's a personal preference thing accounting for how tall you are, how
big are the pieces of wood you'll be working with are, how badly you
need the router table to double as outfeed for the table saw, etc.

why not make it in stages- build the top and mock up a stand at a
trial height and use it for a while to see if you like the height?

After much thinking... looks like will make my own... I will use JessEm
fixed plate ($79) and JessEm fence($149). I don't think I should make my
own fence at this time. The baltic plywood is $15 (why most mags suggest
baltic ply?). I will look in the abpw for ideas. Total should then be under
$100.

Chuck

Please comment and thank you.

"CNT" wrote in message
...
(why most mags suggest
baltic ply?).

Straight, flat, stable

"Edwin Pawlowski" wrote in message news:HNNVd.5659

Some of the new router can be adjusted from the top. Tritona nd now PC has
one. I h ave no idea how well they work as I've never seen one. I like
using my drill to run the router up and down on the lift for bit changes,
but I use a speed wrench for the fine adjustments.

Actually the Triton is still a below the top adjustable router. I always
eye ball the bit height by squating and looking along the table surface
plane so for me there is not much adantage to having a top adjustment.
Slight fine tune adjustments are quite simple also with the Triton.


It was just little startling when you said those plate-lifts are be
considering of "old" already. I am not saying like wishing I should have
the silding miter saw, I love my fixed miter saw.

Hew meant that the new routes are adjustable from the top, just like using
an expensive lift. Again, I don't know if they are as good, as fast,
etc., but they are worth looking into.

Well, some of the new ones are. Seems the top adjustments are a problem for
some with dust filling the holes or the fence covering the hole. All I want
out of a lift is fine tune accuracy that is easy to get to with out tools.

"CNT" wrote in message
...
After much thinking... looks like will make my own... I will use JessEm
fixed plate ($79) and JessEm fence($149). I don't think I should make my
own fence at this time. The baltic plywood is $15 (why most mags suggest
baltic ply?). I will look in the abpw for ideas. Total should then be
under
$100.


Baltic Birch plywood is all hard wood, not just the outer layers and there
are 9 ply's in 1/2" material.

"Leon" wrote in message

Well, some of the new ones are. Seems the top adjustments are a problem
for some with dust filling the holes or the fence covering the hole. All
I want out of a lift is fine tune accuracy that is easy to get to with out
tools.

That is why I bought the Benchdog. Yes, you do need a tool, but the plate
is marked and the easy to read socket is marked. I can put it in and zero
it out and then use the gauge to accurately move that 1/64" and not have to
crouch, take my glasses off, reach into a cabinet, etc. Works for me.
--
Ed
http://pages.cthome.net/edhome/

"Edwin Pawlowski" wrote in message
...

That is why I bought the Benchdog. Yes, you do need a tool, but the plate
is marked and the easy to read socket is marked. I can put it in and zero
it out and then use the gauge to accurately move that 1/64" and not have
to crouch, take my glasses off, reach into a cabinet, etc. Works for me.

I seldom measure the height of the bit, I typically use a gauge of some sort
to adjust for the depth of the cut. And, with the Triton you can make
repeatable fine tune adjustments with your eyes closed. The fine tune
adjustment knob is shaped such that you know by feel what quarter, half,
and full turn adjustment are.