I just used up my quart of glue, and it is time to buy some more. I have
like the GarrettWade 202, but have not tried Titebond III.
Is it worth a try, or do I stick with 202?

toller wrote:

I just used up my quart of glue, and it is time to buy some more. I have
like the GarrettWade 202, but have not tried Titebond III.
Is it worth a try, or do I stick with 202?

Don't need Type III unless you need the lower temperature chalk point or
the water resistance. It's roughly double the price of yellow glue.

Never used the Garrett Wade product so can't compare, but any
good-quality yellow aliphatic is plenty strong enough for virtually any
woodworking. "Ol' Yeller" from Woodworkers' Supply is somewhat less
expensive and every bit as good as the name brands as near as I can
tell, but there really isn't much cost differential unless you're into
large-scale production.

"toller" wrote in message
...
I just used up my quart of glue, and it is time to buy some more. I have
like the GarrettWade 202, but have not tried Titebond III.
Is it worth a try, or do I stick with 202?


I've been very happy with Lee Valley 2000 GF. I've also used TBIII for
outdoor use, but it is more expensive and not any better for indoor work.
Ed

"Edwin Pawlowski" wrote in message
news:ZypVd.47969$t46.470@trndny04...

"toller" wrote in message
...
I just used up my quart of glue, and it is time to buy some more. I have
like the GarrettWade 202, but have not tried Titebond III.
Is it worth a try, or do I stick with 202?


I've been very happy with Lee Valley 2000 GF. I've also used TBIII for
outdoor use, but it is more expensive and not any better for indoor work.
Ed
I think the Lee Valley and the GW are the same glue; the descriptions are
almost identical. I will stay true; thanks.

Gorilla glue.

In article , says...
I just used up my quart of glue, and it is time to buy some more. I have
like the GarrettWade 202, but have not tried Titebond III.
Is it worth a try, or do I stick with 202?

It costs more than I or II.

It works at lower temperatures than I or II.

It doesn't run as much as II or I.

I know nothing about the GW202.

--
Homo sapiens is a goal, not a description

Yellow Elmhers

--

Rumpty

Radial Arm Saw Forum: http://forums.delphiforums.com/woodbutcher/start

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -


"toller" wrote in message
...
I just used up my quart of glue, and it is time to buy some more. I have
like the GarrettWade 202, but have not tried Titebond III.
Is it worth a try, or do I stick with 202?

Larry Blanchard wrote:
In article , says...

I just used up my quart of glue, and it is time to buy some more. I have
like the GarrettWade 202, but have not tried Titebond III.
Is it worth a try, or do I stick with 202?


I've been enjoying the increased open time of the III. Makes assemblies
just a bit less harried when joints that fit a few minutes ago no longer
seem to and clamping blocks mysteriously vanish (does that happen to
anyone else??). It dries to a darker color than I or II, for what that's
worth. I don't use enough over the course of a year for the slightly
higher price to make much difference. Can't compare either to the GW202.

Roger

TBIII works fine, I use it on darker color woods.
TBII still going strong.

Although, I've been using Gorilla glue more often, longer open time, good
for bent laminations or where waterproofing is required. Sometimes, its
just closer.

I don't think there is a bad brand of yellow glue.

Dave

"toller" wrote in message
...
I just used up my quart of glue, and it is time to buy some more. I have
like the GarrettWade 202, but have not tried Titebond III.
Is it worth a try, or do I stick with 202?




Posted Via Usenet.com Premium Usenet Newsgroup Services
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While people are thinking about the "newest glue" how do you repair a
joint "in a few years"?

I was looking at one of the FW books - and a maker of "fine furniture"
suggested that hide glue was still the best if you wanted to plan ahead
for the "inevitable repairs".

I know that hide glue is still preferred by instrument makers since
repairs are assumed to be necessary and an issue in expensive guitars,
violins etc. Then it is a matter of heating the joint (since hide glue
melts when heated), disassembly, doing the repair and then applying more
hide glue -- since the new hide glue should dissolve the old hide glue
and form a decent bond as they merge.

My understanding is that modern glues may necessitate paring down the
old joint (to get rid of the old glue since it seals the wood) , adding
wood back and then reglueing...

Any thoughts on this issue?


toller wrote:
I just used up my quart of glue, and it is time to buy some more. I have
like the GarrettWade 202, but have not tried Titebond III.
Is it worth a try, or do I stick with 202?



--
Will
Occasional Techno-geek

I've used titebond ii, elmers, and ol' yeller. They all do the job I
assigned them. No complaints.
Hope this helps.
Joe






toller wrote:
I just used up my quart of glue, and it is time to buy some more. I have
like the GarrettWade 202, but have not tried Titebond III.
Is it worth a try, or do I stick with 202?

Never Enough Money wrote:

Gorilla glue.

Bleech!!!

Never for ordinary woodworking unless absolutely mandatory for full
waterproof would I ever use a polyurethane. (And, if you must, there
are at least a couple other brands of the identical product cheaper than
Gorilla...)

Why would you "never" use a polyurethane glue?

It's strong. It's fast but not too fast.
The squeeze out is easily removed.
It's waterproof so if a grandchild spills a drink on it without you
noticing, the joints don't fail (the finish may be damaged, though).
It ain't that expensive. My gosh, it's peanuts compared to what we
spend on other woodworking tools and supplies.

toller wrote:
I just used up my quart of glue, and it is time to buy some more. I have
like the GarrettWade 202, but have not tried Titebond III.
Is it worth a try, or do I stick with 202?


Don't have a clue.

Use two (2) different adhesives in the old boat yard.

TiteBond II which is about $13-$14/gallon @ Home Depot for wood projects
and epoxy which considerably more for boat projects.

They both do a fine job.

HTH

Lew

I use titebond II - just because it was on sale.

I think any type of yellow glue will serve you well
for interior applications. I use poly for outdoors.

Buy a gallon instead of a quart - it lasts quite a long
time. I just emptied my gallon of TB today and it was just
as juicy as when I bought it over a year ago.

Lou

In article , toller
wrote:

I just used up my quart of glue, and it is time to buy some more. I have
like the GarrettWade 202, but have not tried Titebond III.
Is it worth a try, or do I stick with 202?

What glue do we like now?

Fresh glue, stored well. Old glue is bad glue.

Hide glue.

Hot hide glue for veneering

Hot hide glue for big glue-ups on "proper" work and carcase assembly.

Cold hide glue (Titebond) for "quick fixes".

Cheap builder's PVA for plywood, biscuits (diluted) and rough stuff.

Some Titebond garbage with no shelf life that turned into chewing gum
and won't be getting replaced.

Poly when I hate the world and want to build softwood garbage with
huge gaps.

Epoxy for almost everything. Great vats of the stuff, and a shelf full
of fillers, pigments and potions for tweaking it.

Rabbit skin glue for when hide glue isn't flexible. Also goes into
gesso, compo, gilding and bookbinding.

Rice paste for Japanese woodworking that needs to be dismantled in the
future (sword scabbards). Take yesterday's leftover rice and mush it
with a bit of water.

Rice starch paste for paper conservation. A pig to brew up carefully.

Wallpaper paste for lots of paper-based stuff.

Five hundred different technical things for sticking glass, brass and
unobtainium.

Welding ! 8-)

In article ,
"toller" wrote:

I just used up my quart of glue, and it is time to buy some more. I have
like the GarrettWade 202, but have not tried Titebond III.
Is it worth a try, or do I stick with 202?

WEST for water proof applications, laminations.
Cyanoacrylate for small mitres.
Elmers, TB, LePage, any of those quality yellows for anything else wood.
('Cept teak..WEST)
Different job, different glue.
I use a lot of 3-M polygun hotmelt..LOL

Wed, Mar 2, 2005, 8:21pm (EST+5) (toller) claims:
I just used up my quart of glue, and it is time to buy some more. I have
like the GarrettWade 202, but have not tried Titebond III. Is it worth a
try, or do I stick with 202?

Does this mean you can't make your own decision about what glue to
buy?



JOAT
Intellectual brilliance is no guarantee against being dead wrong.
- David Fasold

Never Enough Money wrote:
Why would you "never" use a polyurethane glue?

Because it is over priced and under peckered.

You will never find that crap on a good boat.

If you need a gap filling adhesive that is also water proof, use epoxy
with micro-balloons as a filler.

That won't fail when you really need it.

HTH

Lew

In article ,
says...
I was looking at one of the FW books - and a maker of "fine furniture"
suggested that hide glue was still the best if you wanted to plan ahead
for the "inevitable repairs".

I've seen that too. And I've used the liquid version for some "fine
furniture" I've built. I've got the gluepot and the beads for the hot
version, but I've never needed enough at one time to go through the
hassle.

Now I'm designing an entertainment center and aquarium stand) for our
living room. Will I use hide glue? I don't know. While I hope to
attain a high level of workmanship, I suspect entertainment centers will
not be a hot item on the future antique circuit. OTOH, who woulda'
thunk that anyone would collect old iceboxes?

--
Homo sapiens is a goal, not a description

On Thu, 03 Mar 2005 03:50:54 GMT, Lew Hodgett
wrote:

Never Enough Money wrote:
Why would you "never" use a polyurethane glue?

If you need a gap filling adhesive that is also water proof, use epoxy
with micro-balloons as a filler.

Why would you use polyurethane glue for a gap-filling application,
since it is specifically *not* a gap-filling glue?

"We need to make a sacrifice to the gods, find me a young virgin... oh, and bring something to kill"

Tim Douglass

http://www.DouglassClan.com

On Wed, 02 Mar 2005 18:49:17 -0600, Duane Bozarth
wrote:

Never Enough Money wrote:

Gorilla glue.

Bleech!!!

Never for ordinary woodworking unless absolutely mandatory for full
waterproof would I ever use a polyurethane. (And, if you must, there
are at least a couple other brands of the identical product cheaper than
Gorilla...)

true for daily use it is not practical. but there are not other brands that are
as good. gorilla is the only one as much solids. plus it has no thinners and it
has a longer open time.
I tested most of them and for oily woods it was stronger then any other brand.

--
Knight-Toolworks & Custom Planes
Custom made wooden planes at reasonable prices
See http://www.knight-toolworks.com For prices and ordering instructions.

Tim Douglass wrote:

Why would you use polyurethane glue for a gap-filling application,
since it is specifically *not* a gap-filling glue?

I wouldn't use the stuff on a bet; however, that is being a smart alec
and not answering your question.

To the best of my knowledge, Gorilla glue is an expanding product that
supposedly will fill gaps, intensional or otherwise.

Maybe it isn't intended as a gap filling product, but it is very
tempting to try to use it for one.

IMHO, based on the selling price structure of Gorilla glue, it is a very
poor value when compared with epoxy and some low cost fillers on either
a cost or performance comparison.

HTH

Lew

Never Enough Money wrote:

Why would you "never" use a polyurethane glue?

It's strong. It's fast but not too fast.
The squeeze out is easily removed.
It's waterproof so if a grandchild spills a drink on it without you
noticing, the joints don't fail (the finish may be damaged, though).
It ain't that expensive. My gosh, it's peanuts compared to what we
spend on other woodworking tools and supplies.

It's no stronger (and some things I've seen indicate it's not as strong)
than carpenter glues.

I find the squeeze out a pita -- w/ carpenter glues I can clean up
before it dries critical places and it it's an easily surfaced rough
joint, still no advantage.

I've never had any joint fail under that circumstance...I suppose
possible, but never seen it in practice.

True, but why spend twice what's needed for it?

Plus, my real dislikes--

It foams
It discolors/stains and is virtually impossible to remove from skin
It takes "forever" to set and thus requires excessively long clamping
times
Did I mention it's expensive?

That said, I was thinking after I posted I should have put a couple of
caveats in...

I have used it to some extent on exterior repair or similar where the
extra water-resistance was desirable and the even more expensive
two-part epoxies seemed excessive.

It is also (as someone else noted) of use for some assemblies that
require long open times for assembly (although most of those have better
alternatives imo) and mostly likely use is for location where need an
inflexible glue line such as the formed laminate same poster noted.

For "ordinary" woodworking, it just has far more drawbacks than
advantages.

IMO, YMMV, $0.02, etc., ...

Steve Knight wrote:

On Wed, 02 Mar 2005 18:49:17 -0600, Duane Bozarth
wrote:

Never Enough Money wrote:

Gorilla glue.

Bleech!!!

Never for ordinary woodworking unless absolutely mandatory for full
waterproof would I ever use a polyurethane. (And, if you must, there
are at least a couple other brands of the identical product cheaper than
Gorilla...)

true for daily use it is not practical. but there are not other brands that are
as good. gorilla is the only one as much solids. plus it has no thinners and it
has a longer open time.
I tested most of them and for oily woods it was stronger then any other brand.


I've used it and the Elmer's (I think???) side by side and could tell no
discernable difference.

Did not try w/ oily woods, however, granted...there could/would be an
application I didn't account for. (I retreat to my use of "ordinary",
however...)

See my other response to see at least a slight moderation on the
previous post...

ER doc found the Rival Express Hot Pot with variable heat knob worked
as a hot hide glue pot. For $15.00 or so compared to $85.00 or so I
found it works as he said it would.

On Wed, 2 Mar 2005 20:41:47 -0800, Larry Blanchard
wrote:

In article ,
says...
I was looking at one of the FW books - and a maker of "fine furniture"
suggested that hide glue was still the best if you wanted to plan ahead
for the "inevitable repairs".

I've seen that too. And I've used the liquid version for some "fine
furniture" I've built. I've got the gluepot and the beads for the hot
version, but I've never needed enough at one time to go through the
hassle.

Now I'm designing an entertainment center and aquarium stand) for our
living room. Will I use hide glue? I don't know. While I hope to
attain a high level of workmanship, I suspect entertainment centers will
not be a hot item on the future antique circuit. OTOH, who woulda'
thunk that anyone would collect old iceboxes?

To the best of my knowledge, Gorilla glue is an expanding product that
supposedly will fill gaps, intensional or otherwise.


at most 2mm gaps. but it's best to not have gaps in your work.

--
Knight-Toolworks & Custom Planes
Custom made wooden planes at reasonable prices
See http://www.knight-toolworks.com For prices and ordering instructions.

Did not try w/ oily woods, however, granted...there could/would be an
application I didn't account for. (I retreat to my use of "ordinary",
however...)

that's where the difference is really. otherwise it does not matter. but that's
why I use it as I use lots of oily woods. otherwise I would not use it. though
for what I do it is nice to only have to glue one side.

--
Knight-Toolworks & Custom Planes
Custom made wooden planes at reasonable prices
See http://www.knight-toolworks.com For prices and ordering instructions.

In article ,
says...
ER doc found the Rival Express Hot Pot with variable heat knob worked
as a hot hide glue pot. For $15.00 or so compared to $85.00 or so I
found it works as he said it would.


Yes, I found that out some time ago, a year or so AFTER I'd bought the
$85 glue pot :-).


--
Homo sapiens is a goal, not a description

"toller" wrote in message
...


I just used up my quart of glue, and it is time to buy some more. I have
like the GarrettWade 202, but have not tried Titebond III.
Is it worth a try, or do I stick with 202?

WOOD magazine did a highly scientific study on this a few issues ago.
Oh, and be sure and pick up the next months issue where they retract their
findings.

I still use Elmer's Woodworkers Glue, 90% of the time. I've always
wanted to try the "poly" glues but backed off when I saw the price and
shelf life.

Phisherman wrote:

I still use Elmer's Woodworkers Glue, 90% of the time. I've always
wanted to try the "poly" glues but backed off when I saw the price and
shelf life.

Good choice unless you've a specific need...

Fri, Mar 4, 2005, 1:31am (EST+5) (Phisherman) says:
I still use Elmer's Woodworkers Glue, 90% of the time. I've always
wanted to try the "poly" glues but backed off when I saw the price and
shelf life.

I figure any of the glues would work. But, I've been using
Titebond II for so long, I can't remember when I started using it, or
what made me try it. But, I like the results, so don't see any reason
for me to change. I "have" used Elmers white glue, it worked, but for
whatever reason prefer the Titebond II.

I tried some poly. Once. Worked adequately, but nothing
thrilling, didn't do anything for me the Titebond II wouldn't do, as
well, or better. Besides the initial higher cost, after a not too long
period of time (very few weeks), it hardened in the tube. Nevermore,
nevermore.

If anyone wants to know what brand of glue to use, best way is to
just go out and buy the smallest bottles available of each you're
curious about, try 'em, and see which you like best. That way you'll
know for sure. That's probably what I did when I first converted to
Titebond. I did use I for awhile, but then went to II



JOAT
Intellectual brilliance is no guarantee against being dead wrong.
- David Fasold

I made a jig to store it upside down and put it in the fridge in the
garage. Kept better but still short shelf life for amount I was
using.

On Fri, 04 Mar 2005 01:31:19 GMT, Phisherman wrote:

I still use Elmer's Woodworkers Glue, 90% of the time. I've always
wanted to try the "poly" glues but backed off when I saw the price and
shelf life.

Greetings and Salutations....

On Thu, 03 Mar 2005 09:01:13 -0800, Steve Knight
wrote:


To the best of my knowledge, Gorilla glue is an expanding product that
supposedly will fill gaps, intensional or otherwise.


at most 2mm gaps. but it's best to not have gaps in your work.

--
Knight-Toolworks & Custom Planes
Custom made wooden planes at reasonable prices
See http://www.knight-toolworks.com For prices and ordering instructions.

Hear, Hear! (of course this IS the sort of thing
I would expect to hear from a maker of high-end tools *smile*).
There are a number of places were it is pointed out that
the foam from poly glues have little or no structural strength...and,
frankly, when I have used them for "gap filling", I find that I don't
even like the look of the foam itself.
As for strength...I believe that the poly glues are all VERY
strong...however, unlike the "yellow" glues, it is very brittle. That
can cause problems in structures subject to strong impact.
As for what glues I use? Well, in no particular order,
Titebond II, Yellow carpenters glue, epoxy, CA, poly, and "hot"...it
depends on what I am trying to accomplish.
If I am gluing up a nice panel for a desktop, or raised panel
door, I will tend to use the poly glues. They make a very good joint,
and I have found that the foam-out does NOT soak into the wood surface
as the yellow glues can. Also, even if it does, it is pretty much
"stainable", so I can deal with the problem. ONe of the other
posters mentioned something about how it stains one's fingers. This
IS true, but, is pretty simple to deal with. Harbor Freight sells BIG
boxes of nitrile gloves for small money that are comfortable to wear,
resistant to tears and do a great job of keeping the stains off one's
fingers.
If I am gluing up a bookcase with dovetail joints (for
example), I will typically use a "yellow" glue, because it has decent
open time, acts as a good lubricant for getting the joint together,
and remains slightly "springy" and better at absorbing shocks without
breaking.
If I am putting handles on turning tools, I really like
epoxies (but not the 5 minute stuff). I also use it for inserting
nuts into wood for "knock down" items.
CA (Cyanoacrylate) glues are great for stabilizing punky
wood when I am turning something worm-eaten on the late, and, for
putting a good, sealing finish on things like pens and goblets.
Thicker versions work great for attaching dis-similar materials.
The other day, for example, I used a couple drops to attach a small,
plastic handle to a metal lid on a CD player to "help" get it
opened.
Hot glues are great for temporary jig bits, for
attaching stock to a faceplate for turning, and, for attaching
small bits to larger stock for running through the
shaper/router/tablesaw. If applied VERY hot, it is quite strong,
but, easy to get off the item when it is removed.
Probably a slightly too-long-winded way of saying that I
don't have a favorite glue...but find that each type has its own
strengths and weaknesses.
By the by...I also have used hide glue (in bookbinding)
and a couple of years ago, a buddy of mine picked up some white
glue that had a tack time more akin to CA glue..and VERY strong
bonding strength. That is pretty useful, although I am not sure
that the manufacturer (whose name slips my mind, but, was putting
the glue in bottles with really attractive blue labels) has
managed to ramp up production.
Regards
Dave Mundt

toller wrote:

I just used up my quart of glue, and it is time to buy some more. I have
like the GarrettWade 202, but have not tried Titebond III.
Is it worth a try, or do I stick with 202?

Personally, I favor a glue that sticks wood together.

--
Michael McIntyre ---- Silvan
Linux fanatic, and certified Geek; registered Linux user #243621
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/Rue/5407/
http://rosegarden.sourceforge.net/tutorial/

This winter I'm using Titebond III mostly because my basement is in
the low 50s. I also use 15 and 5 minute epoxies, Gorilla glue, super
glue, "standard" yellow carpenter's glue, glue sticks, double-face
tape, spray adhesive, and GOOP to name a few.

Depends on what the end result is supposed to be. I made some squirrel
and bird feeders and mailbox covers and use Gorilla glue for them
because it's waterproof.

I used epoxy to fill some sloppy joints I made and when I'm gluing
metals. Also for loose knots. Mixed with some sawdust, it also makes a
strong putty for dings and miscues.

Superglue also comes in handy to lock knots and some wood splits. I
also use to strengthen soft wood and to fix in screws.


"toller" wrote:

I just used up my quart of glue, and it is time to buy some more. I have
like the GarrettWade 202, but have not tried Titebond III.
Is it worth a try, or do I stick with 202?

On Fri, 04 Mar 2005 08:58:20 -0800, nospambob wrote:

I made a jig to store it upside down and put it in the fridge in the
garage. Kept better but still short shelf life for amount I was
using.

I bet bloxegen would really help. not sure though as I use up bottles before
they go bad.

--
Knight-Toolworks & Custom Planes
Custom made wooden planes at reasonable prices
See http://www.knight-toolworks.com For prices and ordering instructions.