I'm planning a cabinet for my shop that will not have several drawers
with box joint front joints. I wanted a faceless cabinet with the
drawers fitting flush, and as little clearance as possible. My problem
is finding drawer 'glides' to accomodate this. In ShopNotes #30, they
feature their Small Workbench, which looks almost exactly like I would
like mine to look. Reading the details of how they built it, they used
1/2" aluminum angle set in a shallow dado in the carcass, and ripped a
groove down the side of each drawer 1/8" wide to accept the aluminum.
Like I said, it looks perfect, but I wonder if the drawers would work
well, and if there would eventually be significant wear and tear. I've
also taken a close look at Dizzy's router table,
(http://home.pacbell.net/jdismuk/routertable.html) which features
drawers that glide on 1/2" UHWM runners. This looks like a better
choice, if the plastic holds up. Does anyone have any experience with
either (or both) of these methods before I chop up a lot of wood?

By the way, since I'm leaning toward the UHWM plastic, I'll have to
find a supplier. I have seen McMaster Carr in some posts as a supplier
of choice. In the past, for small pieces, I have bought kitchen
cutting boards at Sams and ripped them down. It's a lot cheaper, and
readily available, but I don't know if it is exactly the same stuff.

Thanks,
Kirk

"kirk78h" wrote in message
ups.com...
I'm planning a cabinet for my shop that will not have several drawers
with box joint front joints. I wanted a faceless cabinet with the
drawers fitting flush, and as little clearance as possible.

What about centre mount slides that fit underneath the drawer? Half the work
and half the mounting width of two side mounted slides.

http://www.leevalley.com/hardware/pa...=3,43614,43616

http://www.leevalley.com/hardware/pa...=3,43614,43616

I am using center mount slides that I got from Rockler for a dresser I am
making. They are fine but if you want something more rugged, I think the
slides in the router table you referred to are fine. I built my router
table from Norm's plans and he just used 1/2" plywood for the slides. it
works great. I suppose the UHWM would be even better though I have zero
complaints about my plywood glides.

"kirk78h" wrote in message
ups.com...
I'm planning a cabinet for my shop that will not have several drawers
with box joint front joints. I wanted a faceless cabinet with the
drawers fitting flush, and as little clearance as possible. My problem
is finding drawer 'glides' to accomodate this. In ShopNotes #30, they
feature their Small Workbench, which looks almost exactly like I would
like mine to look. Reading the details of how they built it, they used
1/2" aluminum angle set in a shallow dado in the carcass, and ripped a
groove down the side of each drawer 1/8" wide to accept the aluminum.
Like I said, it looks perfect, but I wonder if the drawers would work
well, and if there would eventually be significant wear and tear. I've
also taken a close look at Dizzy's router table,
(http://home.pacbell.net/jdismuk/routertable.html) which features
drawers that glide on 1/2" UHWM runners. This looks like a better
choice, if the plastic holds up. Does anyone have any experience with
either (or both) of these methods before I chop up a lot of wood?

By the way, since I'm leaning toward the UHWM plastic, I'll have to
find a supplier. I have seen McMaster Carr in some posts as a supplier
of choice. In the past, for small pieces, I have bought kitchen
cutting boards at Sams and ripped them down. It's a lot cheaper, and
readily available, but I don't know if it is exactly the same stuff.

Thanks,
Kirk

On 25 Feb 2005 06:33:57 -0800, "kirk78h" wrote:

By the way, since I'm leaning toward the UHWM plastic, I'll have to
find a supplier. I have seen McMaster Carr in some posts as a supplier
of choice. In the past, for small pieces, I have bought kitchen
cutting boards at Sams and ripped them down. It's a lot cheaper, and
readily available, but I don't know if it is exactly the same stuff.

Cutting boards are HDPE, which is not as dense/wear resistant, though it
can work OK, IMO. McMaster Carr is good, but expensive. People sell this
stuff on ebay in off-cut sizes at OK prices. Also, check local yellow
pages for Plastics and see if they sell off-cuts. You can cut UHWM with
your TS blade -- just be aware that rather than sawdust you get cotton
candy-like stuff. No problem, just a bit peculiar. HTH. -- Igor

"igor" wrote in message
...
On 25 Feb 2005 06:33:57 -0800, "kirk78h" wrote:

By the way, since I'm leaning toward the UHWM plastic, I'll have to
find a supplier. I have seen McMaster Carr in some posts as a supplier
of choice. In the past, for small pieces, I have bought kitchen
cutting boards at Sams and ripped them down. It's a lot cheaper, and
readily available, but I don't know if it is exactly the same stuff.

Cutting boards are HDPE, which is not as dense/wear resistant, though it
can work OK, IMO. McMaster Carr is good, but expensive. People sell this
stuff on ebay in off-cut sizes at OK prices. Also, check local yellow
pages for Plastics and see if they sell off-cuts. You can cut UHWM with
your TS blade -- just be aware that rather than sawdust you get cotton
candy-like stuff. No problem, just a bit peculiar. HTH. -- Igor

I'm not trying to be picky, but you do know that it is UHMW (not UHWM)
stands for UltraHigh Molecular Weight plastic.

Gary

On Fri, 25 Feb 2005 13:03:48 -0500, "Gary" wrote:


"igor" wrote in message
.. .
On 25 Feb 2005 06:33:57 -0800, "kirk78h" wrote:

By the way, since I'm leaning toward the UHWM plastic, I'll have to
find a supplier. I have seen McMaster Carr in some posts as a supplier
of choice. In the past, for small pieces, I have bought kitchen
cutting boards at Sams and ripped them down. It's a lot cheaper, and
readily available, but I don't know if it is exactly the same stuff.

Cutting boards are HDPE, which is not as dense/wear resistant, though it
can work OK, IMO. McMaster Carr is good, but expensive. People sell this
stuff on ebay in off-cut sizes at OK prices. Also, check local yellow
pages for Plastics and see if they sell off-cuts. You can cut UHWM with
your TS blade -- just be aware that rather than sawdust you get cotton
candy-like stuff. No problem, just a bit peculiar. HTH. -- Igor

I'm not trying to be picky, but you do know that it is UHMW (not UHWM)
stands for UltraHigh Molecular Weight plastic.

Gary

No, pick away. You're right. I never can get this one right. I usually
just call it "that UH stuff". Thanks. -- Igor