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Woodworking (rec.woodworking) Discussion forum covering all aspects of working with wood. All levels of expertise are encouraged to particiapte. |
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#1
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I am making a dresser out of oak (plywood and solid) . I will be using a
Golden Oak stain on it before sealing it. I need to fill in a few places with wood filler. Does anyone have a stainable wood filler that they particularly like? TIA. Dick Snyder |
#2
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"Stainable" wood fillers are really tough to make work right. The
stainm is always a different color in the filler. I only use them on projects where I care very little about the look. They best practice is to fill the holes with colored filler just before you apply the last coat of finish. This way you can select a color that matches best at each location you have a hole. You may want various colors depending on the variable color of the wood. Sometimes fillers have a tendency to repel the finish so do you first few coats, then fill the holes carefully, the apply that last coat. Of course this requires that you pretty much use your fingers as opposed to a putty knife. In some cases a "burn in" type filler is best but I reccomend you do this before the finish coats and you have to be pretty good. You melt the burn stick to put some drops into the hole and then smooth it with a heated putty knife. If it's not to hot you won't blister a film finish but I find it easier to do it on un-filmed material (ie no lacquer/poly, etc yet). I only use this stuff when I have big mistakes, ie gouges. |
#3
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Solvent based Famowood.
-- Rumpty Radial Arm Saw Forum: http://forums.delphiforums.com/woodbutcher/start - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - "Dick Snyder" wrote in message ... I am making a dresser out of oak (plywood and solid) . I will be using a Golden Oak stain on it before sealing it. I need to fill in a few places with wood filler. Does anyone have a stainable wood filler that they particularly like? TIA. Dick Snyder |
#4
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Yes, Famwood. I didn't answer that portion in my first post.
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#5
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SonomaProducts.com wrote:
Yes, Famwood. I didn't answer that portion in my first post. Famowood here, except if the wood is knotty or has many pitch pockets. In the latter case, I'll tint epoxy, let it cure, smooth it with a chisel or plane, and not worry about the "feature" taking stain. Barry |
#6
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On Fri, 25 Feb 2005 12:20:17 GMT, B a r r y
wrote: SonomaProducts.com wrote: Yes, Famwood. I didn't answer that portion in my first post. Famowood here, except if the wood is knotty or has many pitch pockets. In the latter case, I'll tint epoxy, let it cure, smooth it with a chisel or plane, and not worry about the "feature" taking stain. Barry so, you're kinda making your own oak Bondo.. *g* good idea! mac Please remove splinters before emailing |
#7
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mac davis wrote:
so, you're kinda making your own oak Bondo.. *g* good idea! It's an OLD trick, but thanks! Barry |
#8
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Thanks. I see that there is a solvent based Famowood and a water based
Famowood. Your post specifically mentioned solvent based so I just want to be sure that was intentional on your part. If the two were equal, I wouldn't mind not being around the fumes of the solvent though I do have a very good cartridge based mask. "Rumpty" wrote in message ... Solvent based Famowood. -- Rumpty Radial Arm Saw Forum: http://forums.delphiforums.com/woodbutcher/start - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - "Dick Snyder" wrote in message ... I am making a dresser out of oak (plywood and solid) . I will be using a Golden Oak stain on it before sealing it. I need to fill in a few places with wood filler. Does anyone have a stainable wood filler that they particularly like? TIA. Dick Snyder |
#9
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I have no experience with the "water based" Famowood. I have years
experience with the solvent based product and it stains well. "Fir" Famowood is great on oak. -- Rumpty Radial Arm Saw Forum: http://forums.delphiforums.com/woodbutcher/start - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - "Dick Snyder" wrote in message ... Thanks. I see that there is a solvent based Famowood and a water based Famowood. Your post specifically mentioned solvent based so I just want to be sure that was intentional on your part. If the two were equal, I wouldn't mind not being around the fumes of the solvent though I do have a very good cartridge based mask. "Rumpty" wrote in message ... Solvent based Famowood. -- Rumpty Radial Arm Saw Forum: http://forums.delphiforums.com/woodbutcher/start - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - "Dick Snyder" wrote in message ... I am making a dresser out of oak (plywood and solid) . I will be using a Golden Oak stain on it before sealing it. I need to fill in a few places with wood filler. Does anyone have a stainable wood filler that they particularly like? TIA. Dick Snyder |
#10
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OK - thanks. I will give the solvent based Famowood a try. I take it "fir"
is a color of Famowood?? I don't see who their retail suppliers are on their website. Can you tell me where you buy it? (I live in Massachusetts but if you buy from a chain like ACE or something, I can probably find them out here. Dick Snyder "Rumpty" wrote in message ... I have no experience with the "water based" Famowood. I have years experience with the solvent based product and it stains well. "Fir" Famowood is great on oak. -- Rumpty Radial Arm Saw Forum: http://forums.delphiforums.com/woodbutcher/start - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - "Dick Snyder" wrote in message ... Thanks. I see that there is a solvent based Famowood and a water based Famowood. Your post specifically mentioned solvent based so I just want to be sure that was intentional on your part. If the two were equal, I wouldn't mind not being around the fumes of the solvent though I do have a very good cartridge based mask. "Rumpty" wrote in message ... Solvent based Famowood. -- Rumpty Radial Arm Saw Forum: http://forums.delphiforums.com/woodbutcher/start - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - "Dick Snyder" wrote in message ... I am making a dresser out of oak (plywood and solid) . I will be using a Golden Oak stain on it before sealing it. I need to fill in a few places with wood filler. Does anyone have a stainable wood filler that they particularly like? TIA. Dick Snyder |
#11
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Dick Snyder wrote:
I don't see who their retail suppliers are on their website. Can you tell me where you buy it? Try a good paint store. My local Pratt & Lambert dealer sells Famowood. Barry |
#12
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On Thu, 24 Feb 2005 20:20:19 -0500, "Dick Snyder"
wrote: don't know about that brand, but I tried some tests with a few brands of water based fillers, thinking that you'd use them with water based stains, but the solvent based fillers worked much better for both oil and water based stains.. YMMV Thanks. I see that there is a solvent based Famowood and a water based Famowood. Your post specifically mentioned solvent based so I just want to be sure that was intentional on your part. If the two were equal, I wouldn't mind not being around the fumes of the solvent though I do have a very good cartridge based mask. "Rumpty" wrote in message ... Solvent based Famowood. -- Rumpty Radial Arm Saw Forum: http://forums.delphiforums.com/woodbutcher/start - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - "Dick Snyder" wrote in message ... I am making a dresser out of oak (plywood and solid) . I will be using a Golden Oak stain on it before sealing it. I need to fill in a few places with wood filler. Does anyone have a stainable wood filler that they particularly like? TIA. Dick Snyder mac Please remove splinters before emailing |
#13
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Make your own filler with fine oak saw dust and a small amount of glue.
"Dick Snyder" wrote in message ... I am making a dresser out of oak (plywood and solid) . I will be using a Golden Oak stain on it before sealing it. I need to fill in a few places with wood filler. Does anyone have a stainable wood filler that they particularly like? TIA. Dick Snyder |
#14
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stoutman wrote:
Make your own filler with fine oak saw dust and a small amount of glue. I do a similar thing, but use sawdust and a few drops of blond shellac. I always shellac the piece first before staining (as a stain control) so this blends in very well, and seems to take a stain consistantly. It only works for fairly small cracks however. What kind of glue do you use, and does it stain ok? Rob |
#15
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I am using Probond interior glue on this project. I have not used it before
so I don't know about staining. I usually slice any squeeze out off with a chisel once the glue is set up but before it gets too hard. "Rob Mitchell" wrote in message .. . stoutman wrote: Make your own filler with fine oak saw dust and a small amount of glue. I do a similar thing, but use sawdust and a few drops of blond shellac. I always shellac the piece first before staining (as a stain control) so this blends in very well, and seems to take a stain consistantly. It only works for fairly small cracks however. What kind of glue do you use, and does it stain ok? Rob |
#16
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Rob Mitchell wrote in news:L%vTd.25504
: stoutman wrote: Make your own filler with fine oak saw dust and a small amount of glue. I do a similar thing, but use sawdust and a few drops of blond shellac. I always shellac the piece first before staining (as a stain control) so this blends in very well, and seems to take a stain consistantly. It only works for fairly small cracks however. What kind of glue do you use, and does it stain ok? Rob I'd be sure to test this method on scrap, as it will change the performance of most stains over red oak. You may like the changes. Or not. So test. PVA (yellow or white) glues and stains are generally speaking, on red oak, not such good friends. Patriarch |
#17
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Has anyone tried the Elmer's stainablewood glue? If that works you
could mix in saw dust from your project and make a good filler. |
#18
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On Thu, 24 Feb 2005 18:44:39 -0500, "Dick Snyder"
wrote: I am making a dresser out of oak (plywood and solid) . I will be using a Golden Oak stain on it before sealing it. I need to fill in a few places with wood filler. Does anyone have a stainable wood filler that they particularly like? This is not really a testimonial but a professional painter recently told me that the Leech Real Wood Filler from the squeeze tube works very well with oak. He said the stuff in the tube is not as thick (as in the can) and seems to take stain better. I don't finish anything that I don't build for myself so I can't really give you any first hand info. Mike O. |
#19
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While there are some decent stainable wood filers, they will rarely accept the
stain the same as the wood. Firstly, are these nail holes, or something much bigger/longer? Assuming nails, I'd stain and apply at least enough finish to seal the wood. Then take some sawdust and a little glue. I split it into a few samples, and add different amounts of the stain used, then let dry. Pick the one that best matches the finished dresser. Fill each hole and wipe with a damp sponge, then again with a clean part of the sponge. The finish will prevent it from sticking. If it doesn't level to the surface, repeat when dry. It can then be touched up with finish if needed, or the final coat of finish can be applied. As it happened, I used Golden Oak about 2 years ago on a window molding and sill, and you can't easily find the nail holes. GerryG On Thu, 24 Feb 2005 18:44:39 -0500, "Dick Snyder" wrote: I am making a dresser out of oak (plywood and solid) . I will be using a Golden Oak stain on it before sealing it. I need to fill in a few places with wood filler. Does anyone have a stainable wood filler that they particularly like? TIA. Dick Snyder |
#20
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While there are some decent stainable wood filers, they will rarely accept
the stain the same as the wood. Famowood does. -- Rumpty Radial Arm Saw Forum: http://forums.delphiforums.com/woodbutcher/start - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - "GerryG" wrote in message ... While there are some decent stainable wood filers, they will rarely accept the stain the same as the wood. Firstly, are these nail holes, or something much bigger/longer? Assuming nails, I'd stain and apply at least enough finish to seal the wood. Then take some sawdust and a little glue. I split it into a few samples, and add different amounts of the stain used, then let dry. Pick the one that best matches the finished dresser. Fill each hole and wipe with a damp sponge, then again with a clean part of the sponge. The finish will prevent it from sticking. If it doesn't level to the surface, repeat when dry. It can then be touched up with finish if needed, or the final coat of finish can be applied. As it happened, I used Golden Oak about 2 years ago on a window molding and sill, and you can't easily find the nail holes. GerryG On Thu, 24 Feb 2005 18:44:39 -0500, "Dick Snyder" wrote: I am making a dresser out of oak (plywood and solid) . I will be using a Golden Oak stain on it before sealing it. I need to fill in a few places with wood filler. Does anyone have a stainable wood filler that they particularly like? TIA. Dick Snyder |
#21
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I have purchased Famowood fir and Famowood red oak as well as small
containers of three other kinds of fillers. When I apply the stain (Minwax Golden Oak) all of the fillers are significantly darker than the rest of the oak. I think I am going to have to try some methods AFTER applying stain and urethane to the project such as have been suggested in this thread (stainable wood glue and oak saw dust seems to be the best one for me to try). I have some miters that are showing more joint than I want. I want to fill those joints so that they are less visible. Tomorrow I am going to try to find some stainable wood glue (someone in this thread suggested Elmers) to use for the patchup work. Does anyone have any further advice for me? I have greatly appreciated the help so far but I am still not where I want to be vis a vis lack of visibility of the filling. "Rumpty" wrote in message ... While there are some decent stainable wood filers, they will rarely accept the stain the same as the wood. Famowood does. -- Rumpty Radial Arm Saw Forum: http://forums.delphiforums.com/woodbutcher/start - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - "GerryG" wrote in message ... While there are some decent stainable wood filers, they will rarely accept the stain the same as the wood. Firstly, are these nail holes, or something much bigger/longer? Assuming nails, I'd stain and apply at least enough finish to seal the wood. Then take some sawdust and a little glue. I split it into a few samples, and add different amounts of the stain used, then let dry. Pick the one that best matches the finished dresser. Fill each hole and wipe with a damp sponge, then again with a clean part of the sponge. The finish will prevent it from sticking. If it doesn't level to the surface, repeat when dry. It can then be touched up with finish if needed, or the final coat of finish can be applied. As it happened, I used Golden Oak about 2 years ago on a window molding and sill, and you can't easily find the nail holes. GerryG On Thu, 24 Feb 2005 18:44:39 -0500, "Dick Snyder" wrote: I am making a dresser out of oak (plywood and solid) . I will be using a Golden Oak stain on it before sealing it. I need to fill in a few places with wood filler. Does anyone have a stainable wood filler that they particularly like? TIA. Dick Snyder |
#22
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Dick Snyder wrote:
Tomorrow I am going to try to find some stainable wood glue (someone in this thread suggested Elmers) to use for the patchup work. Does anyone have any further advice for me? I have greatly appreciated the help so far but I am still not where I want to be vis a vis lack of visibility of the filling. Wax. Colored wax. Like the "putty sticks". -- dadiOH ____________________________ dadiOH's dandies v3.06... ....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that. Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico |
#23
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Depending on the wood and stain, even the glue/dust/stain may not look too
natural. If you're careful, you can match the color, but any large areas will be missing the grain. For large areas, leave the mix as light as the lightest part of the wood. Before the final coat of finish (or after, if you miss something) make up a toner with some finish and stain. Use a fine artists brush to draw or connect the grain. Best to leave it light enough so it takes a few coats, so you can blend it in. That can be done with any filler method, as long as the filler is lighter. Pure stain is not good to use, as it doesn't have enough binder. GerryG On Sun, 13 Mar 2005 22:03:13 -0500, "Dick Snyder" wrote: I have purchased Famowood fir and Famowood red oak as well as small containers of three other kinds of fillers. When I apply the stain (Minwax Golden Oak) all of the fillers are significantly darker than the rest of the oak. I think I am going to have to try some methods AFTER applying stain and urethane to the project such as have been suggested in this thread (stainable wood glue and oak saw dust seems to be the best one for me to try). I have some miters that are showing more joint than I want. I want to fill those joints so that they are less visible. Tomorrow I am going to try to find some stainable wood glue (someone in this thread suggested Elmers) to use for the patchup work. Does anyone have any further advice for me? I have greatly appreciated the help so far but I am still not where I want to be vis a vis lack of visibility of the filling. "Rumpty" wrote in message ... While there are some decent stainable wood filers, they will rarely accept the stain the same as the wood. Famowood does. -- Rumpty Radial Arm Saw Forum: http://forums.delphiforums.com/woodbutcher/start - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - "GerryG" wrote in message ... While there are some decent stainable wood filers, they will rarely accept the stain the same as the wood. Firstly, are these nail holes, or something much bigger/longer? Assuming nails, I'd stain and apply at least enough finish to seal the wood. Then take some sawdust and a little glue. I split it into a few samples, and add different amounts of the stain used, then let dry. Pick the one that best matches the finished dresser. Fill each hole and wipe with a damp sponge, then again with a clean part of the sponge. The finish will prevent it from sticking. If it doesn't level to the surface, repeat when dry. It can then be touched up with finish if needed, or the final coat of finish can be applied. As it happened, I used Golden Oak about 2 years ago on a window molding and sill, and you can't easily find the nail holes. GerryG On Thu, 24 Feb 2005 18:44:39 -0500, "Dick Snyder" wrote: I am making a dresser out of oak (plywood and solid) . I will be using a Golden Oak stain on it before sealing it. I need to fill in a few places with wood filler. Does anyone have a stainable wood filler that they particularly like? TIA. Dick Snyder |
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