I've got a set of chairs that came factory polyurathaned. Looks like it was
applied with a hose.

I'd like to paint them, will scuffing up the poly with steel-wool be enough
for mechanical adhesion? I may also employ a sanding sponge too see if that
works any better.Any other suggestions?

-Jeff

On Wed, 23 Feb 2005 16:23:29 -0700, John wrote
(in article ):

I've got a set of chairs that came factory polyurathaned. Looks like it was
applied with a hose.

I'd like to paint them, will scuffing up the poly with steel-wool be enough
for mechanical adhesion? I may also employ a sanding sponge too see if that
works any better.Any other suggestions?

-Jeff



I reused some butt-ugly stained and poly door trim. I scuffed it with #0 wool
and primed it with some good latex primer. Not the same abuse as a chair gets
but so far so good....



-Bruce

On Wed, 23 Feb 2005 18:23:29 -0500, the inscrutable "John"
spake:

I've got a set of chairs that came factory polyurathaned. Looks like it was
applied with a hose.

You say that as if it were something odd. I wouldn't be at all
surprised (someday very soon) to hear a salescritter say "Yes, the
runs are there to simulate grain and the dirt is there to simulate
splinters from real wood."


I'd like to paint them, will scuffing up the poly with steel-wool be enough
for mechanical adhesion? I may also employ a sanding sponge too see if that
works any better.Any other suggestions?

Strip using a methylene chloride stripper (aircraft-strength) and use
something less plasticky. Nothing sticks well to poly, including other
coats of poly, and especially paint. You'd expect less from plastic?


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First item is the condition of the current finish. You need to either
sand/scrape it down to a smooth and fully scuffed finish, or strip it. It's
also (very) hard to be sure that it's really poly, but that's not too
important. If your sanding gives you a smooth base, that's fine. You may also
want to use some thin strips or sanding rope to get the detail.

Next is the type of paint you're using. If you apply a thin coat of dewaxed
shellac first, than nearly anything can be used. Most paint from spray cans
will also adhere pretty well, due to the solvents used. It's also best to
paint in two coats, with the first one very light.

GerryG


On Wed, 23 Feb 2005 18:23:29 -0500, "John" wrote:

I've got a set of chairs that came factory polyurathaned. Looks like it was
applied with a hose.

I'd like to paint them, will scuffing up the poly with steel-wool be enough
for mechanical adhesion? I may also employ a sanding sponge too see if that
works any better.Any other suggestions?

-Jeff