I just got a Delta 6" jointer for my shop. Sometimes I would like to make
1/8" thick boards for small projects. Is there a way to fairly accurately
thickness plane a small board with the jointer? I experimented a little bit,
but could not get the opposite faces of the board parallel - making more of
a wedge than a board.

Thanks,
Richard

When using a jointer to face plane, it will only make that face flat. It
has no reference to allow making the opposite face parallel. That's the
province of a thickness planer, which will make a board flat across it's
width, and the two faces parallel (but not necessarily flat, that's a
jointer).
GerryG


Richard Green wrote:
I just got a Delta 6" jointer for my shop. Sometimes I would like to make
1/8" thick boards for small projects. Is there a way to fairly accurately
thickness plane a small board with the jointer? I experimented a little bit,
but could not get the opposite faces of the board parallel - making more of
a wedge than a board.

Thanks,
Richard

That's the wrong tool for the job, Richard. You need to use a
thickness planer to get the side opposite the jointed side to be
perfectly parallel. You'll have to be very careful in making 1/8"
pieces on a thickness planer, due to the likelihood that the pieces will
fly up into the head. Consider securing them to a sled with tape.

Dave

Richard Green wrote:
I just got a Delta 6" jointer for my shop. Sometimes I would like to make
1/8" thick boards for small projects. Is there a way to fairly accurately
thickness plane a small board with the jointer? I experimented a little bit,
but could not get the opposite faces of the board parallel - making more of
a wedge than a board.

Thanks,
Richard

There is a way to do it, it's not quite 100% accurate and always looked
a bit scary to me. I've only seen it done, not done it myself. It
involves a jig that references the top side of the board to the fence.
It's only usewd for the second side obviously. The board kinda hangs
under the jig while riding along the fence. I've always seen it done
with thicker pieces so they had some edge to grab but you could
probably do it with some double stick tape... as I said, scary.

Sorry I can't give more details but maybe a google search or something

"Richard Green" wrote in message
...
I just got a Delta 6" jointer for my shop. Sometimes I would like to make
1/8" thick boards for small projects. Is there a way to fairly accurately
thickness plane a small board with the jointer? I experimented a little
bit,
but could not get the opposite faces of the board parallel - making more
of
a wedge than a board.

You can do it, but you have to do it consciously, not just run it through
and hope. Once the cut starts, I sort of walk it through with the
hold-downs referenced flat to the outfeed, and never let the heel get past
the cutter at TDC. Sort of "baby step" feeding.

Not that I would do 1/8 unless it was fully supported. That's sanding
territory. I can do about 4 1/2" wide against a fence on my OSS, but smart
money goes a plane or fully supported into a machine.

I've been doing some searching and found this on a site called Poorman
Publications:

Attach a Thickness Planer to Your Jointer
Make Your Jointer Do Double Duty.
By building a simple attachment, and placing it on top of your jointer, you
can have your jointer do double duty as a thickness planer. The attachment
works equally well on either a 4 or 6-in. jointer. It will enable you to to
dress rough-sawn lumber to finish dimensions, or plane resawed stock from
1/8 to 2-in. in thickness. The attachment is simple to build, but dimensions
given in the plan may have to be altered somewhat when fitting the unit to
different makes of jointers. The cost to build is just a few bucks, and
certainly worth the effort when you can use lumber you finish to complete
jobs.The step-by-step picture plans also have pull apart assembly drawings.
This is a real time & money saver.

My assumption is that this is the kind of jig you are talking about. If you
have to somehow hold the board above the blades, it sounds a little
dangerous to me. I am a magician and build a lot of my own props, so I need
to be extra careful about keeping all 10 fingers I think I'll avoid
scary.

Thanks,
Richard


"SonomaProducts.com" wrote in message
oups.com...
There is a way to do it, it's not quite 100% accurate and always looked
a bit scary to me. I've only seen it done, not done it myself. It
involves a jig that references the top side of the board to the fence.
It's only usewd for the second side obviously. The board kinda hangs
under the jig while riding along the fence. I've always seen it done
with thicker pieces so they had some edge to grab but you could
probably do it with some double stick tape... as I said, scary.

Sorry I can't give more details but maybe a google search or something

Richard Green wrote:
....about thicknessing relatively thin stock w/ jointer...

No real disagreement w/ others here but my take is if there's a cabinet
shop or a school shop at the trade school, I'd look into getting them to
run some through the thickness sander...much safer and better end result
besides.

Okay, that's on
http://metalwebnews.com/poorman/wood.html
search for TP-122
Only $12...
Who'll be the first to try it and report their results here?
GerryG

Richard Green wrote:
I've been doing some searching and found this on a site called Poorman
Publications:

Attach a Thickness Planer to Your Jointer
Make Your Jointer Do Double Duty.
By building a simple attachment, and placing it on top of your jointer, you
can have your jointer do double duty as a thickness planer. The attachment
works equally well on either a 4 or 6-in. jointer. It will enable you to to
dress rough-sawn lumber to finish dimensions, or plane resawed stock from
1/8 to 2-in. in thickness. The attachment is simple to build, but dimensions
given in the plan may have to be altered somewhat when fitting the unit to
different makes of jointers. The cost to build is just a few bucks, and
certainly worth the effort when you can use lumber you finish to complete
jobs.The step-by-step picture plans also have pull apart assembly drawings.
This is a real time & money saver.

My assumption is that this is the kind of jig you are talking about. If you
have to somehow hold the board above the blades, it sounds a little
dangerous to me. I am a magician and build a lot of my own props, so I need
to be extra careful about keeping all 10 fingers I think I'll avoid
scary.

Thanks,
Richard


"SonomaProducts.com" wrote in message
oups.com...

There is a way to do it, it's not quite 100% accurate and always looked
a bit scary to me. I've only seen it done, not done it myself. It
involves a jig that references the top side of the board to the fence.
It's only usewd for the second side obviously. The board kinda hangs
under the jig while riding along the fence. I've always seen it done
with thicker pieces so they had some edge to grab but you could
probably do it with some double stick tape... as I said, scary.

Sorry I can't give more details but maybe a google search or something

In article ,
"Richard Green" wrote:

I am a magician

Where did he go?

In article ,
Robatoy wrote:
In article ,
"Richard Green" wrote:

I am a magician

Where did he go?

"Pay no attention to the man behindthe curtain."

Ta dah! I'm back. Just lurking in the shadows and listening to the advice...

Richard

"Robert Bonomi" wrote in message
...
In article ,
Robatoy wrote:
In article ,
"Richard Green" wrote:

I am a magician

Where did he go?

"Pay no attention to the man behindthe curtain."